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Exhaust header(s) leaking - Fixed.

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Beehive Bedlam This post is not being displayed because the poster has bad karma. Unhide this post / all posts.

Pete.
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PostPosted: 09:03 - 30 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
...I believe a garage will dive in head first and snap them I have been told this is a strong possibility.


I suppose you're right. Why pay a professional to snap them off when you can do it yourself for free?
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 09:19 - 30 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good job on the prep. Thumbs Up

You'll want to replace the nuts with brass ones.

I ended up cutting one of the nuts off of my Lifan, literally sliced through it with a hacksaw towards the collar, just missing the threads of the stud, to release its grip (other nut splitting / cutting tools are available). I'm not recommending it, just noting it.
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Last edited by Rogerborg on 09:30 - 30 Jun 2015; edited 2 times in total
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 09:29 - 30 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just weld it all to the sprocket, while your Arabian princess gazes in awe.
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andyscooter
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PostPosted: 08:49 - 01 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you snap them its then your problem to sort it out

if they do it its then not your problem Thumbs Up
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delsol
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PostPosted: 09:39 - 01 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

BodyGuard wrote:

As for 'professional' from all the monkeys I have used they are no more of a 'professional' than me except they have the added bonus of a garage/tools.
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 10:03 - 01 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't blame you for trying this yourself. It's not like the local bike shop has a magic way of removing exhaust nuts.

Keep on with the PlusGas, especially overnight or while the bike is sat for a long time.

Make sure you use a good quality 6 sided socket, not a cheapo 12 sided one. This will reduce the risk of rounding the nut off. Give the socket and extension bar a few brisk taps with a hammer before trying to turn it. You could also apply some well directed heat to the nut with a small blowtorch.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:37 - 01 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
One thing before you try to take the exhaust off, spray every nut and bolt with WD40

Are you having a larf?
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 11:18 - 01 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

You did recently say that you wanted a louder exhaust. You've got one now.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 11:34 - 01 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
spray every nut and bolt with WD40

RhynoCZ wrote:
you lack the basic knowledge
So much delicious irony here.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 12:59 - 01 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been using WD40 (if I had no penetrating oil) to loosen up rusty stuff, since I could hold a spanner. I've never snapped a bolt/nut. Thinking
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wots
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PostPosted: 13:05 - 01 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Took the ER-6 into a garage, as the notoriously crap headers needed replacing. Took one look and said, that they would most likely snap and didn't want the hassle.

After a week of plusgas, took an impact gun to it, and they all came off no bother. Bolts looked like cheese but they came off intact. Brand new studs in and all good.

It worked for me, but that doesn't mean it's the right way, I think Pete may disagree?
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weasley
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PostPosted: 13:16 - 01 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did my headers a couple of weeks ago. Basically the same engine and everyone know the nuts seize, the studs snap and the downpipes corrode to dust. Except mine, where the nuts ran off without issues, all studs stayed intact and the downpipes I took off were still sound. I did use new OEM nuts and some copper grease, but could've used the old ones.
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 13:59 - 01 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my Varadero the gasket on the rear header where it joined the rest of the exhaust system used to disintegrate every 8-12000 miles.

The proper way to get to it is to dismantle the whole system. I wasn't gonna do that. I could remove the header in about 10 minutes without disturbing the rest of the bike. Putting it back was harder, access is extremely limited. The problem being threadling the pipe back through the maze, it was like the Krypton Factor.

To undo the header bolts I couldn't get closer than down by the rear wheel, many extensions were used to do this. I would say a short prayer before twisting. Oddly despite doing this about 6 times over 85,000 miles, I managed not to break anything. This was the main reason I switched to an inline 4 cylinder bike where I can see all the exhaust joints.

On the Varadero forums the search goes on for an indestructable exhaust gasket
https://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/yen_powell/P1100527.jpg

https://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/yen_powell/P1100530.jpg
https://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/yen_powell/varadero%20header%202/P1090254.jpg
https://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/yen_powell/varadero%20tech/P1090247.jpg
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delsol
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PostPosted: 15:34 - 01 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

BodyGuard has a length of scaffold tube he 'purchased' recently.

Jobs a good un.
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 17:56 - 01 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pass the popcorn Pass the popcorn Pass the popcorn Pass the popcorn Pass the popcorn Pass the popcorn Pass the popcorn Pass the popcorn Pass the popcorn Pass the popcorn Pass the popcorn Pass the popcorn
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 01 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

BodyGuard wrote:

As for 'professional' from all the monkeys I have used they are no more of a 'professional' than me except they have the added bonus of a garage/tools.


Says the man who couldn't work a chain adjuster.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 20:39 - 01 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might be of use

I a Dremel to take off what remained of nuts (....and a bit of the crank case and exhaust header Embarassed ), plusgas, blowtorch, socket stud extractor to crack them, then molegrips to finish.
Got lucky.
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delsol
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PostPosted: 21:36 - 01 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pigeon wrote:

From Tool Description Details:
PLEASE NOTE: These Extractors are designed to be used on FREE (NOT Seized) Studs. Anybody lacking in experience of removing seized Studs should get professional help from time served highly experienced exhaust fitters/motor technicians. Great care should be taken when using these extractors as incorrect use will cause damage to the tool and or studs! This is not to say they will not extract seized studs but great care and experience is needed to avoid any damage. Not for the average DIYer!

BG ain't average, so no worries there.

.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 09:19 - 02 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems to me OP's gonna have to take the head off, for this one. Good luck with that. Thumbs Up Wink
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wots
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PostPosted: 11:01 - 02 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

BodyGuard wrote:
Interesting replies I am not put off by doing the job myself I intend on riding a bike until I can no longer hold one up so whatever tools I have to buy along the way will eventually pay for themselves.
I posted this, even mentioned you!

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=304514
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 21:32 - 02 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

One bit of advice I rarely see mentioned..

Run the engine first. Let it get very hot, with fan on before you start. It will be a bitch to work on, wear gloves to avoid burns..

You want the aluminum threads expanded. A torch will only locally heat the studs, that wont help.

Any pics for our entertainment?


If you snap them, its quite expensive. My bolts were soft and brittle, snapped 7. Honda bolts also reduce M8 to M7, making them exceptionally easy to snap off Mad

It cost about £900 AND three months to get repaired.. but Ive done 25k miles since Very Happy
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