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Sigsy
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PostPosted: 21:13 - 01 Feb 2005    Post subject: Yet another bad starter thread.........[SOLVED] Reply with quote

Alright lads?

My bike(Kawasaki ZXR400 L2) isn't starting at the mo, hence, was hoping some of you may be able to offer me some advice!

A bit of history first:


* Brought L2 model in August last year. My first big bike, 32k on the clock, owner was using it on a daily commute but was in good condition. However, i knew i would need to replace bits as wear & tear cropped up. Bike rode really well and no apparent probs.
* Put about 600 miles on her when she started losing all revs when i came to a stop with the clutch pulled all the way in. Still rode ok apart from that. Eventually started backfiring and then wouldn't start at all.
* Put into P&H motorcycles in Brighton who had her in their workshop for over a week trying to find the problem. All electrics were thoroughly tested and working fine. Eventually found that the wiring loom had corroded and needed replacing. Job done (October) - bike was on top again

I'd decided to leave my bike in my Nan's garage from end of November until end of Feb as i knew i wouldn't use it much etc. Bike was fine when i put her in storage. I didn't get time to clean any of the bike or spray with GT85 etc.........i'd ridden in wet conditions to my Nan's. Stupid i know.

Anyway, i manage to see bike at end of December so it'd been idle for a month. Took about 5 clicks of the start button to get her going. Everything was cool.

I went back to my Nan's last weekend. The weather was good so i thought i'd go for a spin. I sprayed some muck-off and rinsed with quite a bit of cold water. Sprayed some GT85 to get ride of any moisture and let it evaporate. Bike started on 2nd attempt Went for a quick spin just around town and she rode as well as ever.

Stopped for an hour. It had started to rain slightly by this point so bike was exposed outside. Went back and she started first time. Side stand up, drop into 1st and it cuts out. Tried again numerous time's and it wouldnt' start. Eventually put the choke full-bore and she starts but was idling at 6k rpm! Adjusted the idle bolt a little which made a difference but dropped into first and she was revving between 1.5 - 6 for no reason. I had to push her home in the end.

The next day i had a play and she started (again with choke full-bore). I changed the throttle cable adjuster slightly but not much difference. When she was running, if i blipped the throttle, she revved but it didn't seem half as responsive as usual.

She's back in my Nan's garage until i can get back upto Worcester at the end of Feb. Hopefully by then i might be able to have some idea of what it is!

Any ideas? The battery was fully charged and tank about 1/3rd full. Knowing that it isn't the wiring loom this time, i still think it is electrical maybe? I've read in the Haynes manual for Kawasaki Fours that 'erratic running faults and problems with the engine suddenly cutting out in wet weather can attributed to to leakage from the high tension (HT) lead and spark plug cap.' Obviously you are then supposed to clean it because of the accumulation of mud and grime around the lead and cap. Any idea where the HT lead and spark plug cap are? I'm guessing near the bottom of the bike?

But then i guess it could be a problem with the petrol pump? Hence, why it wasn't blipping as well as usual? Could be an air leak causing the erratic running? other stuff such such as oil & coolant is topped up.

Bear in mind that she could do with a good service to be honest! How much are you guys paying for a thorough service?

Sorry about the essay!!!

Sigs


Last edited by Sigsy on 12:08 - 07 Apr 2005; edited 1 time in total
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Scotsman37
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 01 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're going to like this link as it's to do with service manuals in PDF format to do with varying models of ZXR400 and other help too.

https://wwr.dyndns.org/ZXR400/list.htm
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bish777
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 01 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

drain the float bowls to make sure its not water causing issues.

You may also want to pop out the carbs and clean out the pilot jets.
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bish777
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PostPosted: 22:28 - 01 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

the HT leads are the black leads coming off the top of the motor, there will be four. Theyre connected at one end to the coils, and to the plug caps at the other.

Plug caps are connected to the sparkplugs which are screwed into the engine.
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yambabe
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PostPosted: 01:46 - 03 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apparently I am being told it could be due to carb icing?
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slowarse
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 03 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have heard kawasaki's do suffer badly with carb icing.

i had something similar with my bike a while ago, turns out it needed the carbs cleaned and balanced. run like a dream since! Cool
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bish777
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 03 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

carb icing only ever happens on the move,

it will NOT happen on a stationary bike.

Put lots of oil into the sidestand switch, the one on my GT550 kwacker was terrible, would fill with crap and kill the bike when u put it in gear. It puts a large resistance across the ignition circuit.
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Dom_
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PostPosted: 21:46 - 03 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

bish777 wrote:
carb icing only ever happens on the move,

it will NOT happen on a stationary bike.


I'm sorry but thats completely wrong, in icey freezing cold mornings when i start my bike it is ok, once its warm, if i try to rev it above 6k it stutters. Once the carb is warm though its ok.

As for the zxr, there will be some really shitty old petrol in the tank, i suggest you empty it, clean the tank and fuel lines, also clean the carb and let the new petrol drain in. Then try again Thumbs Up
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instigator
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PostPosted: 22:21 - 03 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

bish777 wrote:
carb icing only ever happens on the move,

it will NOT happen on a stationary bike.

Put lots of oil into the sidestand switch, the one on my GT550 kwacker was terrible, would fill with crap and kill the bike when u put it in gear. It puts a large resistance across the ignition circuit.


Precisely what I was going to say. My er5 switch sometimes sticks and it took me 15 minutes, stuck at my university to find out what was wrong with it. It wouldnt go anywhere when I put it into gear Smile
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bish777
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PostPosted: 08:14 - 04 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dom_ wrote:
bish777 wrote:
carb icing only ever happens on the move,

it will NOT happen on a stationary bike.


I'm sorry but thats completely wrong, in icey freezing cold mornings when i start my bike it is ok, once its warm, if i try to rev it above 6k it stutters. Once the carb is warm though its ok.


This demonstrates fundamental misunderstanding of the problem.

Its simply that as the carbs are jetted, you are not getting sufficient enrichment for the cold engine. Your main jets are probably a little on the lean side for cold weather. Also it will stutter if the choke is still on as it provides too much mixture. Most engines will not accept large throttle openings till thoroughly warm. Because it feels warm to the touch it doesnt mean its up to temperature either.

Carb icing is caused by cold air being sucked into the engine on the move, due to petrol being volatile. This cools the carbs down and that eventually freezes the fuel in the carbs, causing the engine to cut out or run badly.
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bish777
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PostPosted: 08:16 - 04 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sigsy its almost certain to be your sidestand switch. Failing that you have blocked pilot jet(s).
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Sigsy
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PostPosted: 09:23 - 04 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for all the reply's lads. I'll keep you posted on the outcome though it won't be for about a month at least! Crying or Very sad

Sigs
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 11:43 - 04 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

bish777 wrote:
carb icing only ever happens on the move,

it will NOT happen on a stationary bike.



Yes it can but you would have to rev the nuts of it. It's caused by the fuel using heat from the carb bodies to help with atomisation so rev it hard and it can happen but I would say it's unlikely as most people have some mechanical sympathy. Remember carb icing is caused by air velocity in the venturi's not air velocity around the vehicle.

Dom wrote:
In icey freezing cold mornings when i start my bike it is ok, once its warm, if i try to rev it above 6k it stutters. Once the carb is warm though its ok.


This isn't carb icing, your bike may be warm but isn't up to operating temperature . I kinda doubt you let it warm up for 20-30 minutes or until the thermostat opens.

Try masking off part of your rad with gaffer tap and you will see a difference.

Sounds like Bish777 is right over the side stand switch.
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Dom_
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PostPosted: 17:48 - 05 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Dom wrote:
In icey freezing cold mornings when i start my bike it is ok, once its warm, if i try to rev it above 6k it stutters. Once the carb is warm though its ok.


This isn't carb icing, your bike may be warm but isn't up to operating temperature . I kinda doubt you let it warm up for 20-30 minutes or until the thermostat opens.

Try masking off part of your rad with gaffer tap and you will see a difference.


So why does it only happen on icey cold mornings, and when i try it the bike is well up to temp.

I already have taped my rad.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 18:23 - 05 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Because your bike still isn't up to working temp, unless you have a digital temp guage that is accurate it's hard to tell if your bike is at working temp. If you had true carb icing the fuel would freeze in the main jet and your rear wheel would lock up solid. I've had the same problem of stuttering on all the 2 strokes I've owned and most of the 4 strokes.

Remember on cold mornings/days the air is denser than warm days so the bike is running lean to begin with and the engine takes longer to warm up.

If you ride something like an early 90's Ducati ss or maybe an 80's GPZ in the cold that will show you what carb icing is as the rear will lock up and the engine die if carb heaters aren't fitted and then takes a few minutes to restart as the fuel melts again.

There is a second form of carb icing that affects only big singles with slide carbs where the slides freeze open but this is really rare and only happens on tuned bikes.
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Dom_
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PostPosted: 18:33 - 05 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

My rear wheel wont lock up if i lose all power, its just like turning the ignition off or closing the throttle.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 18:40 - 05 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your running lean due the the cold, I had the same problem at keele uni in february on my RG250 many years ago, it took till crewe to warm up.
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Dom_
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PostPosted: 19:39 - 05 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not running lean at all, my plug is jet black, if anything it needs downjetting slightly.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 19:43 - 05 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dom_ wrote:
I'm not running lean at all, my plug is jet black, if anything it needs downjetting slightly.


And the main jet is only just (if at all) coming into effect at 6000rpm

You may well be running slightly rich most of the time but that doesn't mean your running rich on a cold morning when the air is more dense. It's still not carb icing but if you want to think it is go ahead and do so.
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Sigsy
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PostPosted: 12:18 - 07 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Peeps,

Thanks for all your replies all them weeks ago! Though i'd update on what the score is. I was at my Nan's 3 weeks ago and booked my bike in for an intermediate service. Got the garage to collect the bike etc.

Anyway, the mechanic went for a ride and rang me to let me know about any probs. He seemed to think that it was still restricted (i never get it above 100 to be honest), front dics are warped (since brought some used straight one's which i'll fit myself), pads needed replacing (i brought some to fit myself), front wheel bearings are shot (which will have to wait).

I got them to start the service and got a call a day later saying that No.2 carb was pissing out fuel. Therefore i said just 'sort it'. Turns out that all the carbs had been played with in the past and all needles needed replacing. Crying or Very sad So heading back to Worcester tomorrow to pick bike up in afternoon and ride her Shocked £370 in all. Will fit discs and pads afterwards.

Sigs
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