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| hoolio |
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hoolio
Two Stroke Sniffer
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| Suntan Sid |
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Suntan Sid
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 Posted: 12:17 - 09 Jul 2015  Post subject: |
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Despite the nay sayers the Haynes will be fine, if you get stuck Google is your friend!
Check the piston ring end gap and the valve guides when you take the old motor apart.
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| bikenut |
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bikenut
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| hoolio |
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hoolio
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| Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike
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| Posted: 16:48 - 09 Jul 2015 Post subject: Re: oil burning cb125tdc overhaul |
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| hoolio wrote: | Question is, is the haynes manual a good enough guide to walk me through the job . |
Yes
But my .HOW2: Top End Rebuild Honda CB125 (Benley Motor) Has colour pictures.
| hoolio wrote: | is there any essential item that I should be replacing at the same time? |
In the top end valve stem seals.
As for cam bearings - ho-hum- depends what state they are in.. you may find that the Chinky Jailing cam sets on e-bay are cheaper than a pair of new cam bearings bought individually. your call if you use the cam. Its not great, it's timing is that of the 'standardised' TD-J item.
IF the cam-chain comes off easy.. then you may want to think about knocking the bottom end down and replacing the cam-chain.
[/quote]
| hoolio wrote: | and e or any special tools needed. |
Low range torque wrench essential for torqueing up the cylinder head studs.
Small valve spring compressor, handy for getting valves out of the head to lap up and do the stem-seals.
| hoolio wrote: | is the centrifugal oil filter fitted to my 85 cb125tdc |
No
| hoolio wrote: | I thought t was just a mesh screen. |
Correct: As Snowie's HOW2: change Oil & CLean strainer (Small Honda's +)
| hoolio wrote: | will see how it looks with the tank off and if I can do it without disturbing the engine/wiring, |
Heads got to come off the motor; so after you have removed battery and air-boxes so as to remove carbs without buggering the unobtanium carb rubbers, undone the cylinder head to frame mounting plates, and removed the exhausts and the HT leads, there's only two bolts holding the motor in the cradle at the front, two at the back, and then err... plug to the reg/rect, and I think five bullet connectors, and the gear-lever connecting engine to frame. Rocker cover can be a bit of a bugger to wiggle out from under the spin & coils on its own, so PERSONALLY for the sake of five bolts and a couple of wires, I'd pull the whole thing out and make life easy doing it on the bench.
Add on edd... (set of valve guide seals arrived todday, so I discovered Snowie having a crack at one this after-noon after I had typed original message, so memory is being 'refreshed' on the topic!) the starter motor cable is clamped by the alternator casing, and the starter motor is mounted in-front of the barrel. You can get the barrel off without removing the starter, but its annoyingly in the way when you come to remove cylinder studs and clean up the base gasket faces, so genny cover and starter are best taken off too... a 1/4" drive socket set may be worth while investment here; low range torque wrench likely to be 1/4 drive anyway, but the clearances around some of the 8mm head casing screws is a bit bludy tight and a 3/8" drive socket often wont get on the heads cleanly, resulting in rounding.
when you have got the motor out and ready to work on; DONT competely remove the cam-chain tensioner lock-nut or the bottom of the mech goes walkies.
Before tacking the 8 main head stud nuts on the rocker caps; undo the two 10mm head bolts either side of the cam-chain tunnel, and the one shorter external M6/10mm head bolt at the front.. note that that one has a captive nut in the barrel casting outside the engine, and you may have to hold it with a spanner, AND its likely to have rusted rather solid with all the shit chucked at it by the front wheel.
Cam-chain tensioner blade has to be removed from the tension mech to get the head off the barrel, and I THINK the heynes tells you to take that off early... DONT.. leave it until you have removed the cam-caps, and slackened the cam-chain sprocket screws.. you will need to rotate the crank to turn the cam to get the sprocket to 'drop' so you can remove the cam-shain, AND at that point, its a darn site easier if you can use the cam-chain tensioner, to pull the tensioner blade 'up' to take tension off the chain and make some wiggle room to lift the cam-chain, than trying to tug the loose end of the blade out of teh way...
Be effof careful removing the split-pin / Jesus clip from the tensioner blade.. it likes to 'ping' and then fall down the cam-chain tunnel into the crank-case!!!!! B ut as said, do that after you have got all the cylinder bolts & studs nuts, cam-caps and cam out the way.. then undo the CCT bolt and adjuster lock-nut, and bow-pin so head and barrel can be lifted off the crank-case.
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Last edited by Teflon-Mike on 06:37 - 10 Jul 2015; edited 1 time in total |
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| Pol Anorl |
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Pol Anorl
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| Posted: 17:30 - 09 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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follow teffers guide...
you will have to disturb the engine and wiring.
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| hoolio |
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hoolio
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| Posted: 09:55 - 10 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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Cheers for that. 
I have your how to's all book marked and ready Mike although my old eyes do struggle with the background/font colour combo  ,but it's definately the sort of thing that helps keep these old girls on the road |
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| Pol Anorl |
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Pol Anorl
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| Posted: 11:10 - 10 Jul 2015 Post subject: |
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yeah the colour does make me want to have a siezure
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| hoolio |
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hoolio
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| Posted: 00:08 - 19 Aug 2015 Post subject: |
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All stripped and put back together,so much easier than my old Quattro but a fiddly muddah none the less especially the oil rings am plaesed with the progress so far,saying that I have a couple of issues to sort firstly the rocker cover was always oily on one side and it turns out that the bolt doesn't tighten fully so reckon a re-thread via helicoil is needed,feel free to let me know the bolt size  . other issue is the clutch foor some reason don't operate adjusted to it's limit and is was more than fine before so reckon I've done something wrong but am left scratching my head as it all looks as it should,well sleep a freash head and a charge in the flat battery might work it out. |
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| hoolio |
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hoolio
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| Posted: 00:59 - 23 Aug 2015 Post subject: |
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sorted the oil leak issue just running in for about 100 miles let the rings bed in then see how it reacts to the high revs,clutch works fine but the position of the lock and adjuster nuts are not where they should be got new pads and shoes to fit and a new tacho cable if I can get the damm screw out of the engine case any tips... |
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| Suntan Sid |
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Suntan Sid
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 10 years, 323 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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