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2 stroke tight gearbox after rebuild

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770
Nova Slayer



Joined: 25 Jan 2014
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 16 Jul 2015    Post subject: 2 stroke tight gearbox after rebuild Reply with quote

husqvarna 125

When I put the bottom end cases together the gearbox is very hard to turn, I can barely turn it using a lot of force. But if I loosen all the bolts I can hear this click (same click sound when I tighten bolts) And then the gearbox turns freely. I have reopened the case 4 times now already and checked for assembly-errors. I am using the same shims that already were there. What if I just throw the shims out, will that affect the bearings much?
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misscrabstick
Crazy Courier



Joined: 05 Jul 2013
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PostPosted: 20:07 - 16 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

bearings probably not fully seated on the shafts coming through the cases into the primary drive, find a tube and put over the shafts against the bearings inner races and give them a smack.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:10 - 16 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're sure it's assembled right give the shaft ends a good hard crack with a plastic-faced hammer.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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770
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PostPosted: 20:15 - 16 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

misscrabstick wrote:
bearings probably not fully seated on the shafts coming through the cases into the primary drive, find a tube and put over the shafts against the bearings inner races and give them a smack.


I can rotate the crank freely, I have just tried rotating the gearbox itself. I also tried without shims this time and it is still the same. Should the gearbox shaft be hard to turn in gear so long it is not connected to the crank?? It spins easily back and fourth but once I connect the case halves it is no go.. :/
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Accuhaler
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 28 Dec 2014
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PostPosted: 17:07 - 17 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
If you're sure it's assembled right give the shaft ends a good hard crack with a plastic-faced hammer.


Correct term would be a mallet....
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Taught2BCauti...
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Joined: 12 Jan 2012
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PostPosted: 08:59 - 18 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't throw the shims out - try removing all of them first to see if it solves the problem. If it does, you will need to put the correct thickness of shims back in to remove end-float, as the new bearings may be slightly bigger than the old ones.

The workshop manual should tell you how to measure end-float and setup the shims - (usually involves a dial-gauge or a micrometer).
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 09:42 - 18 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Taught2BCautious wrote:
Don't throw the shims out - try removing all of them first to see if it solves the problem. If it does, you will need to put the correct thickness of shims back in to remove end-float, as the new bearings may be slightly bigger than the old ones.

The workshop manual should tell you how to measure end-float and setup the shims - (usually involves a dial-gauge or a micrometer).


Bearings are sized in hundredths of a mm or better. Shims will be taking up machining tolerances.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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