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Broken bleed nipple on caliper - cost to remove?

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owl10
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PostPosted: 22:11 - 03 Aug 2015    Post subject: Broken bleed nipple on caliper - cost to remove? Reply with quote

Hi All,

One of my caliper bleed nipples has not only seized and broke, but there is also a snapped off point from one of those easy out things stuck in the centre now as well... (Doh).

Calipers are 4 pot nissins, non radial, from a bandit 1200 (fitted to a zx6r).

Clearly Im too potato to remove it myself, so is it worth paying some machine shop to do it, or simply chuck it and buy another pair of calipers?

How much would a machine shop likely charge for this kind of thing?

Cheers
Owl
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 22:18 - 03 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try a banjo bolt with integral bleed nipple. Bleed the system down to the banjo then pump out the pistons a bit. Hold the calipe rso that the banjo is highest, crack the bleed nipple then have someone press the pistons back in one at a time lowest first. This should push any remaining air back out the nipple.
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andys675
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PostPosted: 22:18 - 03 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

you can buy a banjo bolt with a bleed nipple in it, less than a tenner
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davebike
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PostPosted: 09:27 - 04 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Broke bleed nipple is almost impossible to repair well

As said get banjo bolt with bleed nipple or 2nd hand calliper
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Taught2BCauti...
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PostPosted: 10:23 - 04 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally, I wouldn't trust it but if there's no fluid leaking from the damaged bleed nipple, you could probably bleed it from the banjo bolt if you can position the caliper so that the banjo is the highest point.

I have seen calipers that have had a seized bleed nipple forcibly removed, drilled out or otherwise bodged, leaving the seat, or the threads in the caliper body damaged, so I would recommend getting a replacement.
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 10:52 - 04 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

davebike wrote:
Broke bleed nipple is almost impossible to repair well

As said get banjo bolt with bleed nipple or 2nd hand calliper


Why would you say that? It's probably easier than getting a snapped regular bolt out. It's even got a pilot hole there for you. I've drilled out a few without any problems. Much better than bolting some transformer shit with a bleed nipple to it.
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 11:17 - 04 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.fraserbrowneng.co.uk/store/index.php?route=product/category&path=60
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MCN
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PostPosted: 11:35 - 04 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a simply enough jobbie to drill out as there's a 'pilot hole' already drilled through a bleed nipple.


You only need to know the thread size (so you can determine the tapping size drill bit.)
You can determine that by measuring the diameter of the threaded section of a 'good' nipple you can remove from a similar calliper or by purchasing a new one (which you will have to do anyway.)

£65 for a kit is a bit expensive unless you don't have a clue.

You probably won't even need a tap if you carefully drill out the old fitting by incremental drill sizes. When the material is removed from inside a bolt it tends to weaken it's grip on the hole thread and can allow it to be dug out with a screwdriver.
If it all goes pear-shape then you can call an engineers to take over or possibly/probably cheaper to buy a 2nd hand calliper depending on how favourable an engineer's labour cost are.

The banjo and nipple would be my first option though and worry about a remedy later.
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 11:48 - 04 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
It's a simply enough jobbie to drill out as there's a 'pilot hole' already drilled through a bleed nipple.


You only need to know the thread size (so you can determine the tapping size drill bit.)
You can determine that by measuring the diameter of the threaded section of a 'good' nipple you can remove from a similar calliper or by purchasing a new one (which you will have to do anyway.)

£65 for a kit is a bit expensive unless you don't have a clue.

You probably won't even need a tap if you carefully drill out the old fitting by incremental drill sizes. When the material is removed from inside a bolt it tends to weaken it's grip on the hole thread and can allow it to be dug out with a screwdriver.
If it all goes pear-shape then you can call an engineers to take over or possibly/probably cheaper to buy a 2nd hand calliper depending on how favourable an engineer's labour cost are.

The banjo and nipple would be my first option though and worry about a remedy later.



Buy kit, repair nipple, sell the kit on flea bay, works out cheaper then paying to get it repaired and you learn something along the way.
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Major Doss
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 04 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whilst a decent engineer 'may' be able to successfully remove a snapped bleed nipple, with the remains of a super-hard eazi-out added into the mix, you can pretty much forget about it.

Like others have suggested, banjo bleeder. Thumbs Up
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MCN
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PostPosted: 12:24 - 04 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Major Doss wrote:
Whilst a decent engineer 'may' be able to successfully remove a snapped bleed nipple, with the remains of a super-hard eazi-out added into the mix, you can pretty much forget about it.

Like others have suggested, banjo bleeder. Thumbs Up


With respect, one doesn't have to be an 'engineer' to hoi a broken bolt (which is basically what a bleed nipple is) out using the correct drill bit.

But if no confidence in one's prowess then a bike shop or an engineer's shop will do it easily. It is not a massive biggy/biggie rly.

The easy-out part I agree with as they are the Devil in the wrong hands.

I would prefer to drill out rather than risk breaking an easy-out in.

Still not sure why they are called 'Easy-Out'. Very Happy
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Major Doss
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PostPosted: 14:17 - 04 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 'hoi'-ing of a bolt is not the issue. Not damaging the finely machined seat underneath however, is. Hence trusting it to someone who will have a rake of kit to hand, to deal with it sympathetically. If that person is you, hoi away! Thumbs Up
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MCN
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PostPosted: 14:41 - 04 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Major Doss wrote:
The 'hoi'-ing of a bolt is not the issue. Not damaging the finely machined seat underneath however, is. Hence trusting it to someone who will have a rake of kit to hand, to deal with it sympathetically. If that person is you, hoi away! Thumbs Up


I agree baaaat....

The bleed nipple has a relatively long un-threaded 'shank' before the seat/chamfer end of the nipple. So that should actually prevent the drill hitting the calliper seat as the un-threaded part will spin when the last threads are cut.
If using the 'correct' tapping size drill of course.

But not a great job for the in-experienced/mongtarded.

SO 'ONLY A FOOL AND HIS TOOL BREAKS THE THREE MIL RULE.'

Embarassed
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Major Doss
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PostPosted: 15:04 - 04 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fair enough! Thumbs Up
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 15:57 - 04 Aug 2015    Post subject: bleed nipple Reply with quote

I have successfully removed several sheared off bleed nipples ( as well as other "bolts" etc. even m/c chewed screws!! ) using the mig welder method, even ones that are below the surface alloy somewhat.

Remove caliper and strip all easy heat damaged rubbers etc.

Clean remains of steel nipple as best as possible, bright steel.

Mount in holding devise and set welder up ( on mine, 100amp blue machine mart machine now 26 years old, and paid for its self many times over ) , max power, wire speed 6 ish, good gas flow ) .

Prepare a 8 or 10 mm bolt, by tapering the end to be welded to the nipple remains.

Assistant holds the bolt in place, and welder positioned for a 4 to 5 second "burst".

Allow to cool, then repeat the parts not welded to the nipple.

I usually weld one side, allow to cool, then weld the other, allow to cool and fill in the gaps one at a time.

ALLOW TIME TO COOl between each step.

When confident, try undoing the "bolt".

If it shears off again, repeat.

Some but not much melting of the alloy may take place so adjust your technique accordingly.

This method has worked for me many times, not that I am in the habit of shearing nipples, usually the previous owner does that for me.

Old calipers can be problematic, so I strip of all easy damaged rubbers etc, and use heat to expand the alloy, then gently but firmly try and undo the nipple.

Water is a great lub for this!!!!!!!

Cheap, biodegradable, washes away corrosion ( caused by water in the first place ) etc.

Karma Karma Karma

Get the easy out remains as best as possible.

Why use a brittle easy out on a well corroded in nipple???????

left hand drill??
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:48 - 04 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bleed nipples tend to break up when drilling which can snag the drill and snap it off. No matter, if you feel confident then take a drill to it, I've done several but i figured that the OP wouldn't be asking if he had the confidence to tackle that.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 04 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Used callipers are cheap

Its not a massively difficult job to do and would not cost much to have it done either.

I would not bodge brake calliper with a dodgy bleed nipple.
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owl10
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PostPosted: 00:01 - 05 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the replies.

I've got 2 pairs of tokico s awaiting refurbishment hiding somewhere in the garage, as well as the damaged nissins though realistically no time for doing a proper job, far too many other projects going on (car, house, baby, work).

Mechanically I'm not usually so inept, and would normally take on this kind of thing. perhaps I'm just getting lazy now (hence using easy out in first place...)

Bleed banjo sounds good for a temporary measure, longer term I'll likely sell all three sets to pay for a decent refurbished set.

Anyone on here refurb calipers?...
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