Anyone know part number for Yamaha YBR-125 carb engine

[winsoar]

I've got a 57 plate (2007/2008) Yamaha YBR125 and unfortunately the engine needs replacing as it won't go past 40 mph and it is very loud/vibrating/knocking.

I've been looking on eBay and whenever an engine is listed for the YBR-125 it is always the injection model and not the carb model.

One company told me that if I can find out the part number for the carb engine they can try to find one for me.

Any ideas how I can find out the part number?

[-]

If they cant recognise a YBR125 carbed engine without a part number, try another breaker.

Is this the normal process when a bike's running rough, replace the entire engine and gearbox? How much is an engine, which could be almost as knackered as the one you currently have?
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[winsoar]

[RhynoCZ]

[Ste]

As above, if they need the part number for an engine then you should go elsewhere.

What makes you think that not being able to go above 40mph means the engine needs replacing?

How many miles has the bike done?

[Teflon-Mike]

I take it the 'they' are a non franchise mechanics.... 'They' are probably right.....
I can swap a tiddler engine in about an hour... most are attached to the frame with just five bolts, and air-cooled ones in un-faired bikes have bugger all else to undo first before fishing them out; so a half competant mechanics ought to be able to do one, comfortably in a couple of hours; which is perhaps £100 worth of labour.

If you want an engine fixing, rather than replacing; well, same labour is needed to take engine out, and put it back, but in between, you have to take it to bits, find out whats wrong, get parts to fix what's wrong, then put it all back together again. A 'Practiced' mechanic working on an air-cooled engine they know, can possibly do that, in maybe a day, day and a half, lets say, 10hours 'labour'.. so before they bought any bits, like seals, gaskets or oil. at the same notional £50 p/h that's around £500 JUST to pull the motor and have a look at it.. then if the crank is kerbuggered then its however much that would cost to replace or get reconditioned; if the heads kerfuckkered chewed by cam, however much to replace....

BUT, before you start, you have that £600 odd of basic labour to get motor out, look at and put back in, that PROBABLY makes the whole bike, pretty much beyond ecconomical repair..... (qualification)... by a 'paid' mechanic.

£300 for a 'take out' engine to replace the unknown quantity you have? + £150 to swap it? £450... even that's a repair cost, that's aprox half the bikes second hand value; possibly more depending on what shape the rest of the bike is in... if this was accident damage being assessed by an insurance company, that would be on or in the 'write-off' threshold, where the 'risks' associated with repair would mean it's as cheap and easy to just get another bike; remember, replacement engine is NOT a 'guaranteed fix' its a take-out from a second hand bike; what would it have been taken out of? chances are something that was either crashed, and or stolen. If crashed; thing could be not a lot better than what you already have; could have holed the primary cases in a crash and been run out of oil, or left running on its side with the oil all run away from the pump... could be a good'n.. b-u-t its still a 'risk'. So STILL, marginal whether the thing is Beyond Economical Repair (by paid mechanic)

MY ADVICE:- you are talking of chucking big money at a low value bike; and most of it paying some-one else to twiddle spanners. DONT.

Get the bike back; buy a Haynes Manual for it, and if you don't have any tools; get some! Whether you get this bike fixed, or get another, you will need them, unless you want to be paying same fella's rather over-the-odds to do basic routine USER maintenance, like adjusting your drive chain, or changing your oil, ever thousand miles or so.

I would THEN suggest that before you start spending any big money on replacement engines or a new bike; you take a chance, and get a little bit intimate with the engine in this one. It COULD be that the engine is simply so neglected, that teh cam-chain is making a right royal racket from lack of adjustment, and the valves aren't opening 'cos teh tappet clearances are gaping wide, and doing some basic maintenence procedures, as set out in the Haynes Manual, could put it all to rights, for little more than a day, reading the book and following the instructions.... might not.. but what have you got to loose?

After that? Well, you can start taking the engine to bits.. you don't have to take it out the bike to take the top off and have a look... and again, instructions are all in the book.... its just 'time' your time, not a £50 per hour mechanics.

Likely, that there is some major maledy in there.... BUT as you say that the thing is running, and at least capable of 40mph, suggests to ME that it isn't completely extinct, and your crank is seized or main bearings colapsed, and the engine might be 'salvageable' with some slightly less onerouse engineering...

Likely that its no more than the bore is worn beyond, and maybe a piston ring has snapped, and all you need is a rebore and new piston & rings... maybe £50 for a machine shop / engine reconditioners to rebore the cylinder, and £40 for a new piston and rings to suit the bigger hole they cut. Add a top end gasket set, and maybe even a new cam-chain, and you could probably do a DIY 'top end rebuild' on that engine for well under £200 'all in' not taking the engine out of the frame.... As said, what have you got to loose, having a go?

IF NOT... if you really cant face that idea, THEN.. I would suggest that you think long and hard about doing ANYTHING with THIS bike.

IF you can find an engine, you are looking at thick end of £500 to get a paid mechanic to fix it.. and that's before they find any 'niggles' to ramp the labour charges, like the new engine not running right on your carburetor, or the exhaust crumbling when they take it off, or the exhaust studs in the take out engine being sheared and needing machining out and helicoiling....

2007 YBR? Worth what? £750 ish... what would you get for it sold on e-bay 'spares or repairs' "MOT'd, runs, but engine needs attention"... My bet would be there's plenty of optimists that would break thier kneck, hoping top get an "Easy-fix" for £4-500.... add that to what you DONT give paid mechanic, and you have the price of another, better, working bike.

End of the day; that's the choices. Motorcycles are high maintenance machines, they aren't sealed for life consumer goods like a washing machine or car; and a lot of the basic routine maintenance, especially on an 'simple' economy commuter is 'USER' maintenance, that its expected that you, the owner/rider will do; as otherwise you wouldn't have bought such a machine... 'cos paying a paid mechanic £50 an hour to do it for you, rather defeats the 'cheapness' they are bought for!

Unfortunately, too many, don't understand this; and do expect to just add petrol and go places; more so with bikes like the YBR125 sold on high mpg figures to 'learners' too nieve to know chains need adjusting; so older 2nd hand examples are often well into 'maintenance overdraft' before newer nieve newbies get thier hands on them and they brake down!

But that's the choices; if you have the money to pay a paid mechanic to do your dirty work for you, then use a bit of it to buy a better bike that'll likely need less of it to start with; if not, then be prepared to get down and dirty twiddling spanners on your own account.

And from where you are at now; same choice applies.. either get shot of this bike 'as is', recovering as much as value from it as you can, selling 'spares or repairs' to some-one prepared to put in the spanners to make something better of it, and buy something 'better' that doesn';t need so much immediate spannering... OR get spannering... route you are going is likely to turn this thing into a money-pit, paying hand over fist to a paid mechanic for their time and tools, to find and only part solve problems you REALLY don't need.

Re-think the plan from the top... AND don't be afraid to get your own hands dirty.. it's not as daunting as you first imagine, and many of us actually find twiddling spanners and investing a bit of ourselves on making our bikes as 'good' as we can make them quite a lot of fun.
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[WD Forte]

Every time I've been asked for a part number I realise the 'yoof'
on the phone or behind the counter probably knows less than I do about the bike and proceed carefully.
Small, obscure, old, rare components fair enough, but for an engine?
Engine number perhaps, as some major changes happen as they evolve and the number will help show if its pre or post upgrades and changes better than the year it was first registered.
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[andys675]

found the part numbers for kawasaki engines once, more than the bike!
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[P.addy]

I'm sure there are very minimal changes on the FI and Carb engines. However, don't pay 150 for it to be fitted, it'll take you an hour at most.

[RhynoCZ]

There you go: https://ybrclub.com/_files/books/yamaha/YBR125ED-3D9-E0.pdf Engine removal on page 178, 5th chapter.

As WD Forte suggests, the engine is probably cataloged by its VIN. The first few letters and numbers specify the engine, the rest is just a serial number.

EDIT: Also, if you decide to go for a new engine, do the valve clearances and check the timing chain and it's tensioner before you run it. I'd also check the spark plug. You'd be surprised how many people buy a new engine, put it in their bike and then say it's still crap.
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[Ste]

The old engine will still have value as spares or repair on eBay.

[winsoar]

Just to explain I looked for many months for a bike that was within my price range, and found this one for £700 and was told it was a working bike that passed it's MOT.

I paid cash for the bike and then around 2 months later I had passed my CBT - it took two months for the DVLA to send my replacement driving licence hence the delay.

So then I started riding it, not knowing what the bike should sound like. I started off slow, and as I got better at riding it, I noticed that it got very loud when I tried to get faster than 40 mph, and that's when I decided to get it checked out.

First of all, I got a friend who has the same bike to change the oil for me, and change the spark plug. But when he started the bike up, he immediately recognised that it sounded totally different to his bike.

I then took the bike to a recommended local bike mechanic who confirmed that there is something wrong with the engine - possibly the pistons/bearings I think he said - bottom end trouble I think he called it.

So since then I have been searching on eBay for a replacement engine, but the only ones being listed are the injection models, not the carb models.

The bike has done 12,774 miles and the previous owner was an overweight young guy so he might not have been checking the oil regularly perhaps. I can only guess what could have caused the damage to the engine.

If I pay £500 for the repair, plus the £700 I paid for the bike, that is still within the price range for this bike at this age. So I don't mind paying for the repair if it is going to fix the problem.

I found it extremely hard to find a bike within my price range, so a repair is going to be the best option for me.

But the question still remains - where can I find a replacement engine?

I'm not technical when it comes to bike mechanics.

[Ste]

I assume the bike sounded the same before and after your mate did stuff to it?

For trying to track down a suitable engine, try using some of the breakers part finder websites and see what anywhere has to offer.

https://www.google.co.uk/#q=motorcycle+breakers+part+finder

[winsoar]

[Teflon-Mike]

[Val]

[winsoar]

OK thanks for your advice guys. I will see if I can sell it.

[Vincent]

.......and don't let this experience put you off bikes

When looking for another, try and get someone who knows about bikes to go have a look at it with you. Buying any second hand vehicle with little or no mechanical knowledge can be a risky venture.
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