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Removing Weight From Pistons

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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 13:56 - 22 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Start by cleaning up moulding spurs, then I'd probably run a bit of coarse paper on the inside.
4-5 grams is naff all!

EDIT: I'm surprised it'd make much difference to something like a 70's machine
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 14:01 - 22 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

That washer looks a bit large -what are you using to weigh these with? Drug paraphernalia is probably the best bet for those types of weight! Wink
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MCN
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PostPosted: 14:36 - 22 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

a 5p coin is a baw hair under 4g.
Nickel plated steel.

And \ drugist scale would be bestest. A smaller scale has a better sweet area. Scales are always more accurate in the mid range due to charachteristics of springs

Maplin do a nice wee druggy scales I have this one (but I say 'No' to Drugs Smile )

Not for Drug Use

I can confirm it's accuracy as I used a calibrated 100g weight to test mine

There are heat fins under the piston you can clean off the sprue on them.
A carbide de-burr tool in a drilling machine to 'scrape' the inside of the skirt.
Cut Weigh
Cut Weigh
etc.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 14:47 - 22 Sep 2015    Post subject: piston Reply with quote

interesting...what 2t engine are these for, staggered transfer ports......a side exhaust port??

https://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j71/Drewskovitch/Jap%2070s%20bike%20toys/Bike%20toys/M%20Engine%2014_zpsgmapudos.jpg

is this the engines crank??
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MCN
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 22 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

NKVD fan wrote:
I hope you are having other work done because balancing stuff on it's own won't help with power on the standard pipes and cylinder head.


Weight is removed for more than one reason.

If it's removing weight to 'improve balance' then it is not affecting power but to be more comfortable/smoother to ride.

Removing weight to 'Reduce Weight' may help with power.
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orac
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PostPosted: 18:30 - 22 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

aren't the GTs piston ported, which mean that the pistons need to be in the correct barrels which is the reasoning for the staggered skirts.

while on the subject of piston skirts, you maybe able to shave a bit of the bottom of them. not sure how much as never played with piston ported machine but it maybe worth a look.

although the gudgeon pin bosses may look on the thin side, I would be tempted to removed some material from the internal surface - ie the faces that would be closest to the con rod.

FYI I buddy of mine had a GT750 motor dropped in some random kwak frame. had the head (iirc) skimmed the thickness of a gasket which from what I am told gave a nice bit of a performance boost. never got to ride the thing before something went badly wrong and it was decided to part it out instead of fix it. I was sad when I was given that news.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 18:45 - 22 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stupid question ? : reduce the length of the skirt?



Doh! EDIT : someone mentioned that already Embarassed
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 19:02 - 22 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can't take a few mm off the skirt though as this will change/extend the inlet port timing. It's more important to keep all the port timings the same between cylinders than it is piston weights.

Removing casting flash and just a light sand around the gudgeon pin boss is probably the best way to take off a few grams.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 19:27 - 22 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
Stupid question ? : reduce the length of the skirt?



Doh! EDIT : someone mentioned that already Embarassed


Why is the OP not working on his project? Rolling Eyes

Smile
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almostthere
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 22 Sep 2015    Post subject: pistons Reply with quote

why not add some weight to make them weigh the same?
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orac
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 22 Sep 2015    Post subject: Re: pistons Reply with quote

almostthere wrote:
why not add some weight to make them weigh the same?


because its very hard to fix it well enough for it not to dismantle its self at 10k RPM.

when I say from the bottom of the skirt, I mean the very bottom which should not affect the ports at all.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 22:36 - 22 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Can you save weight with a different gudgeon pin? Any with the same outside diameter and length but with a tapered bore?

All the best

K
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 22:46 - 22 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Knife edge the skirt, gives better cooling. Grind out all ID marks, Ventilate the skirt.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 23:25 - 22 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

NKVD fan wrote:
I hope you are having other work done because balancing stuff on it's own won't help with power on the standard pipes and cylinder head.


Stop being silly you.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 00:06 - 23 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
I suggested the skirt.......but got told the pin bosses. The people doing the crank do a lot of work for tuned motors.....powerboat engines, race bikes etc where all these things matter........ they're used to GT750 cranks and know their stuff which is why I went there. I'm not sure they're used to the make of pistons I have though Thinking

Keith...I can balance out 1.8g by just swapping the gudgeon pins I have and the rings around.....that's nearly 50% less to file off Thumbs Up


There's a groove turned into the bottom inside of the skirt. That may be the OEM's 'weight adjustment'. Compare that groove with the other piston.
Get that turned moar.

Just sayin. Smile
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