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Vfr 400 NC ??

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Stalk
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 26 Dec 2005
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PostPosted: 09:36 - 24 Oct 2015    Post subject: Vfr 400 NC ?? Reply with quote

Hello!
Smallest Stalk has got her mind set on a Vfr 400 NC 30, as she is 19 in December. I thought it would be a good idea to ask the mighty Bcf what I should look out for and if the nc24 is worth a look?

Over to you!
Cheers!
Stalk
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Rob Fzs
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Joined: 07 Oct 2015
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PostPosted: 09:54 - 24 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

nc24 is hideous

nc30's are good, just make sure you get a test ride to check the gears out and if it pulls properly , they are getting rather old bikes now so had alot of abuse by learners
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 09:57 - 24 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is she of the shorter persuasion? It's pretty cramped for taller people. I've not owned one but ridden one, other than being extremely cramped (I'm 6'1" and fairly long legged) the only other "eccentricity" was first gear was very tall.
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 10:26 - 24 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Standard ignition and jetting is useless. Use an Ignitech box and NC35 exhaust back section with a decent can / dyno set up for decent power. Follow HRC book to convert fuel tap to gravity feed. For 17" rear wheel there are various options out there, the Duke 916 one is cheapest but all will need a ride height correction.
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joe.staffs
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Joined: 19 Oct 2014
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PostPosted: 11:15 - 24 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Things to consider are they're grey imports so parts arent always available or cheap.
A recent/current classic motorcycles magazine tells you what to look for when buying NC30's and mentions crap radiators on them
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 11:30 - 24 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had an NC21 but they are really old now. My NC21 did everything, touring, commuting, scratching, you name it. It was reliable, comfortable and practical, and being short it fitted me perfectly. It did have a 16in front wheel with a 18in rear.

They are good bikes, as are the NC24's but they are so ravaged with age and incompetent kiddie owners that it'll be hard to get a nice one.

I also owned an NC30, and despite not being in tip top condition it handled well, and was reasonably quick. It was easy to ride, although the riding position was crippling. The exhaust had rotted through, but there was a good bike under there somewhere.

One of the main downsides is that the V4's are extremely difficult to work on. Combine that with a microscopic size, and you've got a good reason why people don't get them serviced or fix the broken ones.

If you find a good one for a decent price then it'll be reliable and it'll work as a daily rider as long as your daughter is flexible enough to fit on it. I think we'll need pics to determine that.
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 11:34 - 24 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

30s were nice but most today are old and battered often abused as a first bike by somebody recently passing their test.

In the northern group 3 such individuals bought VFR400s as their first bike post test. All of them crashed them and maintained them poorly.

One silly sod dropped a shim into the engine (or thought he did) and ended up dropping the entire engine and pulling the engine apart before finding the shim in his pocket. It never ran again.

A restricted steelie CBR would probably be a better choice for cheapness (no uber premium). It's big enough to work on and can be unchained when you get older.
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 11:51 - 24 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Itchy wrote:

A restricted steelie CBR would probably be a better choice for cheapness (no uber premium). It's big enough to work on and can be unchained when you get older.


It would have to be a jellymould (or whatever the 1987-1990 one is called) to be A2 restrictable.
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 12:05 - 24 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

joe.staffs wrote:
Things to consider are they're grey imports so parts arent always available or cheap.
A recent/current classic motorcycles magazine tells you what to look for when buying NC30's and mentions crap radiators on them


Parts are piss easy. Plus anything exotic can be sourced via yahoo japan if you can internet well enough.

As standard the Jap spec bikes do need the mods i mentioned to get competitive top end power, as standard they give up 8-10 hp against a GK73A or ZXR.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 20:04 - 24 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

NC24s are awful.

NC30s seem to have quite a following. They are 25-30 years old. I would expect something like an ER6 to be similar on paper, close enough in price, and 20 years younger.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 23:56 - 25 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

SV650fan wrote:
Standard ignition and jetting is useless. Use an Ignitech box and NC35 exhaust back section with a decent can / dyno set up for decent power. Follow HRC book to convert fuel tap to gravity feed. For 17" rear wheel there are various options out there, the Duke 916 one is cheapest but all will need a ride height correction.


I wouldn't touch Ignitech with a bargepole. I bought their TCIP4 unit for my M900 last year and it failed a few months ago. They've ignored at least 6 emails I've sent, they don't publish a phone number and emails sent directly to the partners are bounced. Piss poor after sales service.
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smallfrowne
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Joined: 25 Jun 2014
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PostPosted: 10:17 - 26 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

SV650fan wrote:
Standard ignition and jetting is useless. Use an Ignitech box and NC35 exhaust back section with a decent can / dyno set up for decent power. Follow HRC book to convert fuel tap to gravity feed. For 17" rear wheel there are various options out there, the Duke 916 one is cheapest but all will need a ride height correction.


I didn't think the standard ignition could be improved upon by much, hardly say it was useless anyway.

Standard Japanese jetting isn't good however. Change the jets out for UK Spec, piece of piss and no need for a dyno run. Really peps up the midrange.

18" rear is fine, ok there's only 2 tyres to choose from, you certainly won't need to start a "what tyre 4 me thread" then (not that there's anything wrong with that sort of thing). BT090 is a decent sport tyre that does well on the track, BT092 has a bit more life and is dual compound. Mind, I've never tried a PR4 so probably just don't know what I'm missing
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 10:25 - 26 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

BT92 hasn't been available for years. Basically it's BT090 if you want something sticky. The standard ignition map is restrictive.
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smallfrowne
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Joined: 25 Jun 2014
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PostPosted: 11:21 - 26 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haha so you're right, BT090 all the way then, doh. What's so restrictive about the ignition map then?
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 12:28 - 26 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

smallfrowne wrote:
Haha so you're right, BT090 all the way then, doh. What's so restrictive about the ignition map then?


The stock curve gives midrange but flattens off too much at the top. A custom curve that fills it out basically gives the same top end as an inline 4 while losing none of the midrange grunt.
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pits
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PostPosted: 23:46 - 26 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the downpipes, IIRC you can't get them and are quite expensive to buy second hand, but this was a few years back.

Also carb seals are a pain to change, so check them if you can, as getting the carbs back on is a nightmare.
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Jenks
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PostPosted: 17:40 - 27 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

i had an nc24, only problem i ever had was the cable to the CDI came loose... had me stumped and had to push it 2 miles home..
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struan80
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PostPosted: 03:22 - 28 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

My poor little NC24 is heartbroken at some of the comments, you cruel cruel people Smile
https://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy224/struan80/12002237_10205343130402099_4472889020353097830_n_zpsutbyah2t.jpg
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binge
Emo Kiddy



Joined: 03 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 22:38 - 30 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had an NC30, and an NC29 (VFR and CBR).

Pros and cons to both.

I preferred the CBR overall.

The VFR had the 18" rear wheel. Wasn't much of an issue. I ran Dunlop Alpha 10s, epically sticky tyres, loved them!
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 01:47 - 31 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did she get it? pics are required Laughing

For parts.. stuff is made.. but CBR bits seem more common.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400606729190
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400931198648

Did I read that the VFR's require engine out to swap pipes?
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Rob Fzs
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 09:41 - 31 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Did she get it? pics are required Laughing

For parts.. stuff is made.. but CBR bits seem more common.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400606729190
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400931198648

Did I read that the VFR's require engine out to swap pipes?


no
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