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JTerra
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Joined: 03 Nov 2015
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PostPosted: 20:25 - 03 Nov 2015    Post subject: Motorcycle sounds/acts strange Reply with quote

Hi,

First let me apologise for creating a thread that might have already been created by someone else, I'm a motorcycle beginner but my mechanic is forcing me to learn about mechanics as I no longer trust him with my bike.

I bought a Leonart Daytona 125, yes It's Chinese (the parts), some might consider it junk but its my junk. First month after I bought the bike i had take it to the mechanic every weekend, because at first the bike was good and after the first revision the sound changed and I notice, mechanic says its my mind and because I'm a beginner, I'm panicking.

The first problem,
In the morning when I start the engine I always open the air until she warms up, but for a warm up she revs too high or at least that's the feeling I have and I unscrew idle speed screw until i sense its a good rev, this is ok until i close the air and the bike won't turn on until i screw the idle speed screw again.

The second problem,
After the warm up whenever i do a 1/4 turn on the throttle, looks like the bike gags for a couple seconds and then starts to rev up. I've adjust the mixture screws but the sound is best at 3 1/4 turns (which according to the internet it means there's something wrong with it because the factory default is about 2 - 2 1/2 turns on the screw).

I still need to check the spark plug, but I'd appreciate some insight from more experienced people as I'm learning as I go.
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 03 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the morning it's supposed to rev a little higher on the choke. Just put it on, put gloves on and ride gently. Then knock choke off after a mile. It should idle around 1200-1300rpm warm
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:33 - 03 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's sounds like it's revving up when the choke is used (like it's supposed to) and so you mess with the tickover speed screw or maybe the air mixture screw(which you aren't supposed to do.)

And then you wonder why it bogs down afterwards....
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JTerra
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Joined: 03 Nov 2015
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 03 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
It's sounds like it's revving up when the choke is used (like it's supposed to) and so you mess with the tickover speed screw or maybe the air mixture screw(which you aren't supposed to do.)

And then you wonder why it bogs down afterwards....


I know that with the choke it is suppose to rev a bit high, when i say i feel like it shouldn't rev this high is because before, the bike wouldn't rev this high to warm up it seems like its on full throttle.

The throttle problem was already like that when i left the shop/mechanic. I only played with the mix screws after i notice this on the bike and put it back to how it was because i can't afford to lose the mix screw while riding.

And why that attitude? It's my first topic and you're already making assumptions. If you have something against me and don't feel like helping, just ignore my post.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 21:28 - 03 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

JTerra wrote:


And why that attitude? It's my first topic and you're already making assumptions. If you have something against me and don't feel like helping, just ignore my post.


That is not attitude. You will know when it's attitude.

You are messing with screws that you shouldn't be messing with. That is why your engine doesn't run properly.
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B0ndy
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Joined: 25 May 2015
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PostPosted: 21:45 - 03 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

What RPM do you get when you use the choke?

Stating the obvious, the choke is progressive so if the RPMs are too high, you just lay off the choke abit until the RPM drops down to say 4k RPM to let the bike warm up.

Don't start fiddling around with the idle screw as this will change the idle speed that was previously set once warm, if you start adjusting it when it's cold, the idle won't be correct when warm and you will then have to readjust. My advice in regards to this is just set it once the bike is warm and don't touch it again.

Moving onto your second problem, it sounds like the bike is running rich if you have some throttle delay. Would I be correct in assuming there's only a delay once it warms up; the bike runs better cold than when warm? If so, the bike is most likely running rich.

Aside from the million different "symptoms" which a bike displays when running rich, I always find the best way to determine the mixture is correct is by checking the colour of the spark plugs. Note that you will need to check the colour of the spark plugs after a ride (doesn't have to be straight after the ride of course), this is because the plugs need to get up to "self cleaning", the temperature when the carbon fouling is cleaned from the plug's insulator and you can get a true representation of the mixture from the carbs. From memory a NGK spark plug's self cleaning temperature is 450 degrees, don't worry too much about the temperature, just make sure you take the bike out for a long ride before checking the colour of the plugs.

Here's a chart to compare your plugs to: https://kereta.info/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/spark-plug-colour.jpg

Right, so you've verified whether whether the engine is getting the correct air/fuel mixture, next step is adjusting the mixture screw as recommended in your service manual (2 1/2 turns out as you say). I've found this to be a good video to watch if you haven't got much experience on making adjustments to a mixture screw, it explains what to listen out for etc: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxpQjDQzX7g

I hope that helps
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JTerra
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PostPosted: 22:18 - 03 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

mbond65 wrote:
What RPM do you get when you use the choke?

Stating the obvious, the choke is progressive so if the RPMs are too high, you just lay off the choke abit until the RPM drops down to say 4k RPM to let the bike warm up.

Don't start fiddling around with the idle screw as this will change the idle speed that was previously set once warm, if you start adjusting it when it's cold, the idle won't be correct when warm and you will then have to readjust. My advice in regards to this is just set it once the bike is warm and don't touch it again.

Moving onto your second problem, it sounds like the bike is running rich if you have some throttle delay. Would I be correct in assuming there's only a delay once it warms up; the bike runs better cold than when warm? If so, the bike is most likely running rich.

Aside from the million different "symptoms" which a bike displays when running rich, I always find the best way to determine the mixture is correct is by checking the colour of the spark plugs. Note that you will need to check the colour of the spark plugs after a ride (doesn't have to be straight away the ride of course), this is because the plugs need to get up to "self cleaning" temperature when the carbon fouling is cleaned from the plug's insulator and you get a true representation of the mixture from the carbs. From memory a NGK spark plug's self cleaning temperature is 450 degrees, don't worry do much about the temperature, just make sure you take the bike out for a long ride before checking the colour of the plugs

Here's a chart to compare your plugs to: https://kereta.info/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/spark-plug-colour.jpg.

Right, so you've verified whether whether the engine is getting the correct air/fuel mixture, next step is adjusting the mixture screw as recommended in your service manual (2 1/2 turns out as you say). I've found this to be a good video to watch if you haven't got much experience on making adjustments to a mixture screw, it explains what to listen out for etc: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxpQjDQzX7g

I hope that helps


Sorry, I only have the speed gauge, at first the bike would warm up on lower revs than this, and as soon as the bike reaches the temperature it dies. Even if i turn the choke off when it starts losing revs, i was never able to turn off the choke and have the bike running normal without dying.

I'll do this, tomorrow I'll record the bike warming up and post it here and will also check the plug! Thanks for the tips.
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WD Forte
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 01:02 - 04 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had to look it up and Leonart are a bunch of Spanish hombres
Knocking out a range of small cruisers from their Barcelona worshops
The engine's a 125 single cylinder, water cooled, carbed device sourced from Piaggio.
Not Chinese OK? habla espanol?
here's a pic of one:
(this info would have been better coming from the OP not me)

https://www.leonartmotors.com/assets/img/daytona1.jpg

Advice:
As its a simple machine a so called 'mechanic' cant sort out
and who's possibly buggered up, take it elsewhere.
Dont just twiddle and hope, it's not good technique.

If you're determined to do it yourself using forum advice
the better the info you give with added pics and vids too,
the better the quality of advice you'll get in return.
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 07:59 - 04 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where abouts are you based? If you are local it's probably a minute or two to get it how it should be.
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arry
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PostPosted: 08:16 - 04 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
Where abouts are you based? If you are local it's probably a minute or two to get it how it should be.


You working at a scrappy with a crusher these days then Paddy?
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Rogerborg
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Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 09:01 - 04 Nov 2015    Post subject: Re: Motorcycle sounds/acts strange Reply with quote

JTerra wrote:
I've adjust the mixture screws but the sound is best at 3 1/4 turns (which according to the internet it means there's something wrong with it because the factory default is about 2 - 2 1/2 turns on the screw).

Not a problem. My Chinese engine was running lean at idle and hesitated when applying throttle. Many other owners report this too. If you need to richen the mixture, you need to richen the mixture.

Do whatever you need to do in order to get the engine warmed up and off the choke.

Then adjust the idle and mixture so that it runs well, both idling and revving. Let it run for a while, then pull the plug and check that it's not fouled.

Then, and only then, start worrying about what's happening while it's on the choke and warming up.

Adjust one thing at a time, by a small amount.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 10:51 - 04 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Set both the idle and mixture when the bike is warmed up and at idle then DO NOT touch them. You are not meant to play with them every time you start the bike. You do know the choke is not an on/off switch right? You can set it in the middle.

Stop being precious sweetheart you are supposed to be a roughty toughty biker Laughing No one was being mean, it all been good advice.

It sounds like you are inventing problems that do not exist to me, stop messing with bits. Eventually you will get to know you bike and know it need x amount of choke for x amount of time before you can ride off on it.
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JTerra
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Joined: 03 Nov 2015
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 04 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's the sound: https://soundcloud.com/terramoto-1/voz0002

Don't know if you can notice at the end when i rev the bike drops then gets goes up again.

WD Forte, motorcycle is chinese, the brand is Spanish if you check AJS Daytona its the same.

Paddy, you wouldn't be by chance in Portugal, Algarve? :p

RogerBorg, i was thinking about warming up the bike, check the spark plug, disable one of the sparks at a time and adjust the mix screw of each carb.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 21:12 - 04 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried starting the bike with no choke?
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JTerra
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 03 Nov 2015
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PostPosted: 22:14 - 04 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ariel Badger wrote:
Have you tried starting the bike with no choke?


It doesn't start.

https://www.buyqualitystuff.com/images/PD26J.jpg

I believe my bike's carb works like this one:
https://www.nightrider.com/biketech/images/cv_carb_cutaway.jpg

Which means its a fuel screw, considering the factory settings are suppose to be between 2-2 1/2 turns and my bike does not run at 2 or 2 1/2 turns, runs irregularly with 3 turns and runs normal with 3 1/2 turns. My only conclusion is that there's actually something wrong with it.

I bought the tools tonight so tomorrow morning i'm going to remove the spark plugs and see if i might have to either replace it by iridium or check the electric cables.

Obs: when i opened the carburetor and removed the gasoline it seemed like it had black particles/Dust, the gasoline was partially.
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B0ndy
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Joined: 25 May 2015
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PostPosted: 23:52 - 04 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

JTerra wrote:


That sounds like an vacuum leak between the carbs and engine to me, check the carb boots aren't cracked and are tightened.

If you have got a vacuum leak, it explains why you've had to turn out your mixture screw so far and can only start the bike with choke, you're needing to en richen the mixture to compensate for the extra air.

My bike sounded very similar at one point, the high idle speed was because of cracked carb boots and too much air was getting sucked in.

Also, if your petcock is vacuum operated, make sure you've attached the vacuum tube to your petcock otherwise your engine will be sucking in extra air and petrol won't be reaching the carbs. Easy mistake to make, you take the bike apart then forgot to attach the tube to the petcock when you put it back together!

Here's a video which I've just found which might help if my explanation makes no sense Laughing : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XzjSEYB9RDU
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 00:00 - 05 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why on earth do you think an iridium plug is going to sort out the fact that your mechanic/you have ballsed up the carb settings? Save your money your bike does not need an iridium plug and take it to someone who knows what they are doing..
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 09:28 - 05 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ariel Badger wrote:
Why on earth do you think an iridium plug is going to sort out the fact that your mechanic/you have ballsed up the carb settings? Save your money your bike does not need an iridium plug and take it to someone who knows what they are doing..


So much this.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
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JTerra
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PostPosted: 10:51 - 05 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes! I finally got it to work properly, its working between 2 and 2 1/2 turns now and the sound is linear slow. Apparantly it looks like the idle was too low and the mix was too high, i had to adjust one carb at a time.

According to the spark plug chart one plug seems to be normal:
https://s9.postimg.org/dtuwpbx7z/IMAG0151.jpg

The other plug is slightly burned on the ceramic, which i cant find in the chart. But IMHO i would say its because this one was on heavy duty while the other one was working on low performance?:

https://s29.postimg.org/em71d1odz/IMAG0152.jpg

Both carbs seem to have different mix settings but only by a 1/4 of turn.
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