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Halfords oil at £12 again

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MarkJ
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PostPosted: 18:04 - 06 Aug 2015    Post subject: Halfords oil at £12 again Reply with quote

I popped in to my local Halfords today and they had the usual selection of 4L engine oil for £12. From looking at the website it seems to be 10W40 semi-synthetic, and 5W40 & 5W30 fully synthetic.
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Cadbury
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 06 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sure it's been done to death, but is there a real difference in car vs bike oil? On the halfords site the motorcycle specific oil is at full price...
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pompousporcup...
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PostPosted: 08:29 - 07 Aug 2015    Post subject: Re: Halfords oil at £12 again Reply with quote

MarkJ wrote:
I popped in to my local Halfords today and they had the usual selection of 4L engine oil for £12. From looking at the website it seems to be 10W40 semi-synthetic, and 5W40 & 5W30 fully synthetic.


thank you! Thumbs Up
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 08:31 - 07 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Caddy wrote:
I'm sure it's been done to death, but is there a real difference in car vs bike oil? On the halfords site the motorcycle specific oil is at full price...




There is a difference, but whether it is important enough to care is another thing.

My bike has had car oil (castrol gtx) for the last 4 oil changes.
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cheeseman
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PostPosted: 08:56 - 07 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

DrDonnyBrago wrote:
Caddy wrote:
I'm sure it's been done to death, but is there a real difference in car vs bike oil? On the halfords site the motorcycle specific oil is at full price...




There is a difference, but whether it is important enough to care is another thing.

My bike has had car oil (castrol gtx) for the last 4 oil changes.


What bike do you have? I believe the only issue is with the wet clutch, but I've heard so many contradictory things about whether car oil actually even contains friction modifying additives that screw up a wet clutch or not that I really doubt now that there's any difference.
Point being that if you've a dry clutch (e.g. most beemers) then you should be able to quite happily run with car oil. And provided the car oil doesn't specifically say that it contains magical friction modifying snake oil then it should be fine. Halford's own brand is probably fine in this case.
Having said that, I've always erred on the side of caution and used motorcycle oil for oil changes and used car oil for periodic top ups and had no problems so far.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 09:02 - 07 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Caddy wrote:
I'm sure it's been done to death, but is there a real difference in car vs bike oil? On the halfords site the motorcycle specific oil is at full price...


It has indeed. Wink
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johnsmith222
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PostPosted: 13:34 - 07 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 9R which has been ridden hard, and it has only ever gotten cheapo 10w40 semi-synth car oil. No clutch slipping.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 10 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was full price in Halfords today Sad
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MarkJ
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PostPosted: 22:20 - 10 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 10W40 still seems to be £12 on their website, could try click & collect?
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 23:09 - 10 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

It lets me order and takes my details but the final click to buy just does not work Sad
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Cyclingbiker
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PostPosted: 09:50 - 11 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Castrol GTX 4l 10w40 for £13 in Asda Thumbs Up

https://groceries.asda.com/product/oils-lubricants/castrol-gtx-10w40-a3b4/910000334646
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raak
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PostPosted: 21:42 - 12 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cyclingbiker wrote:


cheers Thumbs Up
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Ed Case
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PostPosted: 22:39 - 12 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use Wilkinsons semi-synth 10w/40 at £15 for 5 litres......dead happy with it.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 08:07 - 13 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheeseman wrote:
What bike do you have? I believe the only issue is with the wet clutch, but I've heard so many contradictory things about whether car oil actually even contains friction modifying additives that screw up a wet clutch or not that I really doubt now that there's any difference.
Point being that if you've a dry clutch (e.g. most beemers) then you should be able to quite happily run with car oil. And provided the car oil doesn't specifically say that it contains magical friction modifying snake oil then it should be fine. Halford's own brand is probably fine in this case.
Having said that, I've always erred on the side of caution and used motorcycle oil for oil changes and used car oil for periodic top ups and had no problems so far.



A CBR600f. It contains a 14 year old, somewhat abused wet clutch - that doesn't slip.
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STONEY!
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PostPosted: 08:44 - 13 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheap car oil is fine in most bikes, the posh synthetic stuff with friction inhibitors is what will kill your clutch, there's a code or something to look out for on the bottle but I can't for the life of me remember what it is! I just steer clear of the posh oil.
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MarkJ
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PostPosted: 13:32 - 03 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

On again Thumbs Up
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MCN
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PostPosted: 13:47 - 03 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cadbury wrote:
I'm sure it's been done to death, but is there a real difference in car vs bike oil? On the halfords site the motorcycle specific oil is at full price...



It entirely depends on whether you nod or don't nod.

Or if you remove your helmet to fill the tank with petrol.

Or if you are a faggot or a woteva.
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Tierbirdy
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PostPosted: 13:51 - 03 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did we ever reach a conclusion as to whether its going to make your gearbox explode and kill kittens or not? Who bought it last time? Did you die? Mr. Green

Googling these two and their respective information codes brings up the following:

Halfords 10W40 Part Synthetic Oil 4L Extra Info

API SL CF
ACEA A3 B3

Halfords Motorcycle Engine Oil Part Synthetic 10W/40 Extra Info

ACEA A3
API SL

Now the API SL/CF bit apparently is something to do with petrol/diesel engines, S is for spark (petrol) and C is compression (doozel)

source taken from ere!

ACEA Im not so sure about, its something to do with European car manufacturers? A3/B3 rating is something to do with high performance engines? So the Halfords own stuff doesnt look like its too shabby if it meets A3

says so ere!

But still no mention of the dreaded gearbox kitten murdering "friction modifiers" on either one?

So going purely from those two bits of info, the only difference between Halfords car/bike oil, is that bike oil wont work in a diesel engine?

Its all getting a bit too technical for me
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M.C
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PostPosted: 14:02 - 03 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tierbirdy wrote:

But still no mention of the dreaded gearbox kitten murdering "friction modifiers" on either one?

I've got Castrol Magnatec in mine Dance!
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Snod Blatter
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PostPosted: 14:31 - 03 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tierbirdy wrote:
But still no mention of the dreaded gearbox kitten murdering "friction modifiers" on either one?


I've been reading up on oils a bit, after having a scare about using modern oils in the old K100. It appears that modern car oils (API SL and SN) for petrol engines now contain a lot less of a zinc/phosphorous compound known as ZDDP which is a last line of defence against metal to metal contact. This has been a big problem with older engines that have flat rocker surfaces, not roller rockers. It seems though, after further reading, that this is only a serious problem during running in. It has been lowered because it kills catalytic converters over time, which is kind of fair enough.

Bike oils supposedly have higher amounts of ZDDP than car oils ever did, to save the ancient rocker designs and the straight cut gears, so ZDDP is not a friction modifier. But then you can read something like this and even Honda say API SG car oil is too slippery for their motorcycle engines back in the late nineties. But why is it so much more slippery? What are these magical friction modifiers, and will there be less of them in modern oils as they have to burn so cleanly to save the catalytic converters? Is it a trade secret specific to each oil company? I still have no idea.

Does this help? Laughing
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 15:57 - 03 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Snod Blatter wrote:
Bike oils supposedly have...

<Very hard stare>

Ponder on this CBR600F.

Mobil 1 Red Cap 15w-50 from 5,000 to 200,000 miles.

Then Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 diesel engine oil from 200,000 to 300,000 miles and beyond, including track days.

Way too much foggitry and fretting over this issue.
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Snod Blatter
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PostPosted: 16:09 - 03 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Diesel oil is the way forward, higher levels of ZDDP are allowed and they have higher levels of "detegents" to clear away carbon deposits (supposedly). Also, as said, ZDDP appears to be most useful during the run-in period, afterwards you likely don't need so much which is why I'll still use the SL stuff in my K100.

Top hit for Mobil 1 Red Cap 15w50 talks about how Mobil have lowered the zinc content and tried to replace it with Teflon. And how it's now not so good. Hmm.

EDIT: Shell Rotella appears to be increasingly popular too, people seem to know it works well in bike engines. It's still a mystery as to why though, what are friction modifiers and why is this Rotella stuff not as slippery as others?? Also the wiki on Rotella even states it's popular with motorcyclists as it doesn't have any "friction modifiers" and has high levels of ZDDP. Sounds lovely. It's not available here though, too good.
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Last edited by Snod Blatter on 17:53 - 03 Jan 2016; edited 1 time in total
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Northern Monkey
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PostPosted: 17:33 - 03 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Snod Blatter wrote:
Bike oils supposedly have...

<Very hard stare>


Car oil COULD have friction modifier, Bike engine CANNOT

hence the difference in spec.
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spottedtango
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PostPosted: 18:45 - 03 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I honestly don't buy into car and motorcycle oils. Provided it meets the API /ACEA requirements. I've been running all my bikes on car oils for the past 8 years. Not one problem with having a wet clutch, pick the right grade of oil (avoid the fancy or ultra high mileage stuff) and remember to change it.

I think some of the people that are into oil debates are the same ones that spend about 4 hours discussing the differences of Tesco momentum and shell v power. I think I remember the conclusion of one fuel debate coming down to normal supermarket fuel being for peasants lol Rolling Eyes
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 03 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Northern Monkey wrote:
Car oil COULD have friction modifier, Bike engine CANNOT

Whoa there, Mr Future, pre-UCE Enfields CAN run slippery-gloop, as can a K100/K75 or anything else with a separate clutch.
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