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Yamaha YBR 125 Costs/Maintenence For First Motorcycle

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REKX
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PostPosted: 15:14 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Yamaha YBR 125 Costs/Maintenence For First Motorcycle Reply with quote

Hi I've been driving for about 7-8 years since I was 17 and own 2 cars.

I've never had a bike before also have never driven one. (or is it 'ridden one).

I've decided on the YBR 125 because I think it looks OK and most importantly I don't want to spend a lot and prefer it to the Honda which is similar to this vehicle.

My purpose literally to have it around because I go to work in my v6 petrol car. I play tennis 2-3 times a week, so if the weather is good I might bike to tennis. It won't be a daily driver.

I will be doing CBT sometime soon. I got some insurance quotes ranging from £200-300 which I'm happy about.

I won't be doing any racing because I wouldn't be comfortable. With my car its different I know how to correct, and keep the car stable through fast corners.

If someone could break the cost down for me, how often I would need servicing, oil changes, brakes, tyres?

I hope to buy the bike for around 900£, maybe 2-5 years old. Something which I won't mind getting battered a bit. Then perhaps I will move onto something else in the future if I feel more confident.

Cheers guys.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

INCOMING WALL-OF-TEF.

On a YBR, I'd aim to change the engine oil every 1,000 - 1,500 miles and not more than every 2,000. We're talking about a litre of the cheapest generic 10w40 gloop from Tesco here.

Chain and sprockets will last 10 - 15,000 miles if you lube them.

Tyres are surprisingly expensive for rubber that's barely bigger than mountain bike tyres, and will want doing maybe every 8,000 miles.

Brakes, maybe every 10,000 depending how you use them. Pads are cheap and easy to replace. Shoes on the drum will be a bit more work.

A spark plug every 15,000 miles or so, brake fluid changes every 2 years, and if you're unlucky you'll have to do the fork seals at some point which often leads to a thread in the Workshop section with some saucy language.

If it's an occasional fun toy, you're unlikely to rip through all the consumables while you own it though, and at 100mpg and upwards you're not going to get much cheaper motoring.
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Silver_Fox
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why cheapo oil?
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REKX
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
INCOMING WALL-OF-TEF.

On a YBR, I'd aim to change the engine oil every 1,000 - 1,500 miles and not more than every 2,000. We're talking about a litre of the cheapest generic 10w40 gloop from Tesco here.

Chain and sprockets will last 10 - 15,000 miles if you lube them.

Tyres are surprisingly expensive for rubber that's barely bigger than mountain bike tyres, and will want doing maybe every 8,000 miles.

Brakes, maybe every 10,000 depending how you use them. Pads are cheap and easy to replace. Shoes on the drum will be a bit more work.

A spark plug every 15,000 miles or so, brake fluid changes every 2 years, and if you're unlucky you'll have to do the fork seals at some point which often leads to a thread in the Workshop section with some saucy language.

If it's an occasional fun toy, you're unlikely to rip through all the consumables while you own it though, and at 100mpg and upwards you're not going to get much cheaper motoring.


Cheers. I don't mind engine oil, I mean my car takes something like 8-10 litres of oil.

These jobs that you mentioned, where would I have them carried out? Is there national chain like F1 or National Tyres and Autocar but for motorcycles that you would recommend?

Yeah I'm just hoping to buy the bike and have it around for nice days and local trips into heavy areas where I don't want my car to get scratched.

So the main thing is engine oil every 1000 miles, got you.

I might commute to work in rare occasions, say if there is heavy traffic. I have to do a stint on the motorway though about 6-7 miles.
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arry
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PostPosted: 16:13 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Silver_Fox wrote:
Why cheapo oil?

Because why not.

It isn't a complicated machine and doesn't need anything special. At the date the engine itself was released even top spec oil was worse than the cheap stuff currently produced.

The chances are the bike will fail before the engine. Either by crash damage or poor frame or component maintenance leading to uneconomical to repair.
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arry
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PostPosted: 16:16 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

REKX wrote:


So the main thing is engine oil every 1000 miles, got you.
.


I'd say overkill. But for the sake of 3 quid a change its not exactly worth arguing about

Which seems very contrary to what I've just written about cheap oil versus expensive. But I guess the point is whatever you're comfy with it isn't going to break the bank
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Silver_Fox wrote:
Why cheapo oil?

What arry said, and I'd rather change twice as often than run better oil for twice as long.

1,000 miles is an OCD interval though. The Jianshe manual for that engine recommends every 2,000 miles, or curiously, every 3 months. I'm just keeping in mind that you can burn through a litre of oil pretty sharpish - ask the CBF125 owners with seized pistons.



REKX wrote:
These jobs that you mentioned, where would I have them carried out?

In your garage or driveway? None of them are difficult. The YBR is designed to be serviced using the most basic facilities.

There are no national bike servicing chains that I'm aware of. Main dealers will rinse you for basic servicing. Bear in mind that an hour worked on a YBR costs the same as an hour worked on a YZF-R1. You won't recoup anything that you spend on a YBR in resale.

If you do pay for work to be done to it then I'd suggest trying out the local independents to see who at least lubes you up before bum pumping you.


REKX wrote:
I have to do a stint on the motorway though about 6-7 miles.

Sadly, not while displaying L plates. A CBT just validates your provisional license. No pillion passenger, no motorways.
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REKX
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PostPosted: 17:12 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Silver_Fox wrote:
Why cheapo oil?

What arry said, and I'd rather change twice as often than run better oil for twice as long.

1,000 miles is an OCD interval though. The Jianshe manual for that engine recommends every 2,000 miles, or curiously, every 3 months. I'm just keeping in mind that you can burn through a litre of oil pretty sharpish - ask the CBF125 owners with seized pistons.



REKX wrote:
These jobs that you mentioned, where would I have them carried out?

In your garage or driveway? None of them are difficult. The YBR is designed to be serviced using the most basic facilities.

There are no national bike servicing chains that I'm aware of. Main dealers will rinse you for basic servicing. Bear in mind that an hour worked on a YBR costs the same as an hour worked on a YZF-R1. You won't recoup anything that you spend on a YBR in resale.

If you do pay for work to be done to it then I'd suggest trying out the local independents to see who at least lubes you up before bum pumping you.


REKX wrote:
I have to do a stint on the motorway though about 6-7 miles.

Sadly, not while displaying L plates. A CBT just validates your provisional license. No pillion passenger, no motorways.



Part in bold loool.

Ok so I can't go on Motorways at all?

I have a full car license, does that mean I still have to show L plates and not go on Motorway?
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Evil Hans
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

REKX wrote:

I have a full car license, does that mean I still have to show L plates and not go on Motorway?


That's right. And you'll need a CBT before you can ride on the road at all.
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REKX
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Evil Hans wrote:
REKX wrote:

I have a full car license, does that mean I still have to show L plates and not go on Motorway?


That's right. And you'll need a CBT before you can ride on the road at all.


Yeah I'll definitely get that done.

Interesting there are good back roads to and from work.

And it's a casual thing anyway.

Is there a way I can make the L plates look more discrete or bit cooler looking?
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zark
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PostPosted: 17:49 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

REKX wrote:
Is there a way I can make the L plates look more discrete or bit cooler looking?

not without passing your test, no Laughing

just to echo the above... anything you need for a YBR is cheap as chips... have a look at wemoto.com for YBR spares... even chain and sprockets is under £40.

In the time i used mine i got stuffed for a new exhaust (£50 off ebay) and a stator coil (£10 off ebay) so even the 'unusual things' that might bite you are still less than a takeaway and a cab. It comes apart with a modest socket set and spanners - so no huge investment in tools either.

Do your CBT and blag a go on a 600 though... waaaaaay more bike than a 125 and will convince you to man-up and get all the tests done
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arry
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PostPosted: 17:55 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

REKX wrote:


Is there a way I can make the L plates look more discrete or bit cooler looking?


Nobody looks cool on a 125 anyway so the L plates are the least of your worries.

They have to be of a minimum size with set sizing of the L too - the offence for having L plates that don't meet the criteria is exactly the same as the one for now showing any at all so if you were to unleash your inner gangsta then guess which way would be cooler
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Evil Hans
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PostPosted: 17:59 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I was sat on my 125, I couldn't see the plates. And why should I give a fuck about what anyone else is looking at? Wink

Ride, enjoy ... if you want rid of the L plates, pass your test.
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 19:08 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

REKX wrote:


These jobs that you mentioned, where would I have them carried out? Is there national chain like F1 or National Tyres and Autocar but for motorcycles that you would recommend?


ask the place you do your CBT with who they use for work on their bikes that they can't / don't do themselves.

The chap who I use (via the above recommendation) had the dodgiest looking premises, looked like it was going to fall over or slide down the hill!

Knows his stuff tho, every time I've had an issue with the bike he's been spot on with what the issue is.

He's moved into better looking premises now.

Tend to only see him for MOT these days as I've learned to do plugs, air and oil filter myself
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adam277
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fantastically cheap bike to run and for a 125 quite quick. You can not go wrong with one.
The newer models look sporty as well.
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Current Bike: Honda CBF 125: current
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Tierbirdy
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

They do about a billion MPG (N.B. may be slight exaggeration, it used to cost me about £12 to brim the tank from empty, and that would do the best part of 200 miles before I had to start thinking about filling up again), everything is easy to fix or change on it with the most basic set of tools and mechanical knowledge, they will run forever if you look after them... or even if you dont, Im shocked to read this thread and see people suggesting changing the oil every 1-2000 miles Shocked I changed mine annually, maybe twice a year if I was feeling generous, by which point it was probably closer to 10-15k miles... and never cleaned the oil filter either because it was an utter bastard to get at (on mine it was the small mesh filter screen type, that involved taking the gearbox cover off, which was an utter bastard to do as you had to take the rear brake pedal assembly apart too and everything was seized to buggery, so I decided it was probably more hassle than it was worth Mr. Green )

I used mine as a daily hack all year round, blipping around inner London and some long (incredibly tedious) trips up and down the A303/A30 to get to family in Cornwall and back, ragged the tits off it and neglected it to hell (Well according to this thread anyway, I thought I took quite good care of it... apparently not Embarassed ) and it just kept on going no matter what.
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adam277
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PostPosted: 20:27 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tierbirdy wrote:
They do about a billion MPG (N.B. may be slight exaggeration, it used to cost me about £12 to brim the tank from empty, and that would do the best part of 200 miles before I had to start thinking about filling up again), everything is easy to fix or change on it with the most basic set of tools and mechanical knowledge, they will run forever if you look after them... or even if you dont, Im shocked to read this thread and see people suggesting changing the oil every 1-2000 miles Shocked I changed mine annually, maybe twice a year if I was feeling generous, by which point it was probably closer to 10-15k miles... and never cleaned the oil filter either because it was an utter bastard to get at (on mine it was the small mesh filter screen type, that involved taking the gearbox cover off, which was an utter bastard to do as you had to take the rear brake pedal assembly apart too and everything was seized to buggery, so I decided it was probably more hassle than it was worth Mr. Green )

I used mine as a daily hack all year round, blipping around inner London and some long (incredibly tedious) trips up and down the A303/A30 to get to family in Cornwall and back, ragged the tits off it and neglected it to hell (Well according to this thread anyway, I thought I took quite good care of it... apparently not Embarassed ) and it just kept on going no matter what.


I done the same with mine although I never done any of the servicing myself always took it into a mechanic and he never charged me over £100.

I do the same with my Beemer rag the hell out of it and is a general all weather hack and when I take it to get serviced I always end up skint.
That being said if I don't service the bike it stills keeps going. The thing is a tank.
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Current Bike: Honda CBF 125: current
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:

Tyres are surprisingly expensive for rubber that's barely bigger than mountain bike tyres, and will want doing maybe every 8,000 miles.


£35 a tyre expensive! C'mon Roger your showing a little too much kilt Smile


I agree with 99% of Rogers post, but changed my oil around 1,500 miles, some times going out to 1,800 miles but finding false neutrals along the way.

I ran around on L plates for 7 years, partly down to cost, mostly lazyness and fear of failure (I tried to pass it when I was 17 and failed).

If I had my time again, if you find bimbling about on L-Plates annoying, but don't want a bigger bike, then pay the £80 or whatever it is and get your theory test done, Mod1 and Mod2 for Cat A1. Because you can turn up on your own bike and not pay for lessons / instructor (whether that is a good idea or not I'll leave to others).
A1 means no more L-Plates and you can ride on a mway.

Thing is. V6 car with what, 280bhp. You may/will find a 125 is just too slow. If you can accept it's slowness, you can have a lot of fun (I did).

But you have to be aware, you will become a target on the road and treated by some drivers as utter scum not worthy of living......actually that's true of any bike CC, but particularly <=125cc
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GaryJM
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PostPosted: 22:00 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

As others are saying. When you are riding a bike on L plates you are on a provisional licence.
So no motorways ( and some A roads that have motorway restrictions on them), bike limited to no more than 15 bhp, Lplates will cost you 3 penalty points for each one not displayed or incorrect size/lettering if caught.
So that's a potential of 6 points on your full car licence, points don't differentiate between different classes of licence.
Has to be declared to your car insurance even thou you got them on your bike.
So if you are 24 just do DAS, then those things don't matter at all.
If you aren't just do whatever class of bike licence you can ( test wise)
Then again above points are mute.
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M.C
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PostPosted: 22:21 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

125's are terrifying on a motorway... no I never did it, but any dual carriageway with cars flying past used to scare me.

Don't fully understand the oil thing, I just follow the manual. On a 125 there's no real reason to use a 'cheap' oil, on a bigger bike and changing it as often as some on this forum Wink, then it makes sense.

Also 125's are simple machines. Download the manual online or get the Haynes manual (if they do one) for some nice pictures, get yourself a basic socket set, and most jobs are do-able. Parts are so cheap as well for 125's so you'll be paying mostly labour at a garage for no real reason.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 22:33 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

GaryJM wrote:
Lplates will cost you 3 penalty points for each one not displayed or incorrect size/lettering if caught.

I'd see them in court for 2 counts. You're either riding in accordance with your license, or you're not.

CBT, YBR, ride it for a bit, see if you like it, then on to your bike theory and 'A' motorcycle tests ASAP. It's a bit of a slog, but it's worth it in the end.

If you're going to be pikey about it, you might as well just ride a Fireblade and claim that you thought you had a license. Wink
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arry
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PostPosted: 22:38 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

M.C wrote:


Don't fully understand the oil thing, I just follow the manual. On a 125 there's no real reason to use a 'cheap' oil, on a bigger bike and changing it as often as some on this forum Wink, then it makes sense.


No, it really doesn't. Speaking as someone with experience of having oil analysed to disprove the myths - the internet tried and trusted of an oil change every half hour where there's a Y in the day is just as pointless as the 'I only use the BEST fully synthetic ester synthetic race-tech oils in my shopping mobile'

The better oils tended to perform no better than the poorer ones in short interval change situations. The better oils performed better over longer periods. A cheaper oil could last say 9,000 miles without significant degradation whereas more expensive oils did 15,000 miles. Great, when you're changing it at 3,000 mile intervals and it's hardly being ragged to an edge of its life during that very low mileage anyway - it bears no fruit, and just costs money for the sake of it.

I ran a big 330d BMW engine on Carlube's finest against all advice - people told me it's too thin and it's not of sufficiently good quality and it'd cost me a turbo here and a set of main bearings there. It really didn't. That car ran happily at 14k interval oil changes with the Carlube stuff at less than £3 a litre (I bought it in bulk, did bare miles innit) from ~135,000 miles to its current figure of nearing 215,000 miles and last I heard it's still on the original turbo.

I'd happily run just about any four stroke 125 on any oil that's of a reasonable specification and cheap. Engine will still outlast the bike in most cases.
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M.C
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PostPosted: 23:14 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

... I was speaking financially. On a 125 you're only changing a litre, on a big bike if you're changing a few litres obviously you're going to feel the hit more financially. Also it depends on how good you're at taking the old stuff to the tip, I've still got old engine oil/coolant sitting in the back garden from the spring Embarassed

Anyway I'm more concerned with how a bike feels, if the gears feel that much smoother then it's worth the extra IMO.
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Omega
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PostPosted: 00:56 - 26 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you done a blind test to see how much of that improved feel is down to placebo effect?
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:52 - 26 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't have to, Castrol Edge Titanium 5W-40 FST is clearly labelled as containing 50% more placebo than competing brands.
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