False neutral and solid shift lever, advice?

[NJD]

Hey ho its off to work we.. oh wait no its not.. and we're back on our way.

So my bike has a few irritating habits recently;

(1) Its becoming more common that I'll end up getting a false neutral (mainly between 1st and 2nd) at least once every ride (and mainly from a dead stop).

(2) Between any given gears and at random times the bike wont always engage (upon first attempt, has always done on the second) the next gear up when attempting to upshift and instead will just jolt forward and rev higher.

(3) The gear lever feels solid, like literally wont move. Happens at random and not all the time though you know about it when its happening. Requires a good boot upwards and on occasion when attempting to downshift the gear lever will not budge when pressed on.

(4) Struggles to find neutral.

(5) A few seconds after shifting up and increasing speed the bike will pull back on itself (in terms of power) for a moment and then carry on as normal. This ones more rare but is worth mentioning.

So what have I done and checked;

> Chain tension - found the tightest spot in the chain and visually inspected the amount of free play, seems normal with no abnormalities throughout the chain. Also worth as a side note condition of sprockets and chain wear overall is fine.

> Clutch freeplay - Has sufficient but not excessive freeplay on the clutch lever. The clutch arm is returning upon release of the clutch lever.

There's two things that I think it could be. (1) Something internal with the gearbox as the clutch shift lever is becoming (at times) solid and unmovable (momentarily, not permanently) or (2) The engine oil needs replacing.

Suggestions?

[Pete.]

[RhynoCZ]

What motorcycle are we talking about? It sounds like there's no oil in the gearbox or there is enough, but it's way too filthy and/or of the wrong viscosity.
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[NJD]

Would help, my apologies, Lexmoto Arrow.

There's sufficient engine oil and was last changed aprox 2000km ago next recommended change is in 1000km aprox.

I'd personally say that its internal but wanted to ask before booking it in.

[Pete.]

[RhynoCZ]

Any chance you got new boots any recently?
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[NJD]

[talkToTheHat]

Don't ride all splay footed, bring your foot backwards so the ball of your foot is on the peg, well away from shifter. Move foot forwards to shift. If you're lucky Tef won't explain why.

There should be a neutral between 1 and 2, but you should be able to shift through it smoothly.

Have you lubed the rose joints at each end of the shift linkage?

Have you got the gearshift set at somewhere near the factory angle or is it set high? I note you ride with foot resting under it, which would indicate a high lever or a degree of contortionism.

How old and how many miles has your engine oil done?
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Bandit. does. everything.

[NJD]

[Rogerborg]

[NJD]

[Rogerborg]

If it's an easy fix, you can fix it yourself.

If it's not, then you're setting yourself up to pay a significant proportion of the value of the bike, and that's money you'll never see back again.

I'd suggest at least changing the litre of oil, lubing the gearshift connectors, checking that the clamp bolt on the input shaft spline is secure, and cleaning and lubing the clutch actuator arm on the clutch housing and check that it's travelling fully and freely with no significant slack once the level on the bars is pulled.

It does sound like an actual gearbox problem, but if it is then I'd suggest the alternative solution of just riding it into the ground then leaving it in a ditch selling it as "mint, wants for nothing" on Gumtree. These bikes have a reputation for being disposable for a reason.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[Robby]

Get a can of WD40.

Spray it on anything that looks like a moving part on or near the gearchange lever. Wiggle it around, spray some more.

Then see if it starts behaving.

[NJD]

[Rogerborg]

[NJD]

[spottedtango]

I agree, the money spent on labour splitting the cases reassambly and replacement parts you could have sourced a good second hand engine and avoided time wasted on diagnosing the problem

[supZ]

[NJD]

[NJD]

Ah, yes I see the problem mr shop owner and mr mechanic. I can't believe I've missed it all this time how very silly of me. It's my reflection. Ey? Yup the problem here is the owner and not the bike.

Two test rides latter and the report was that they couldn't find anything wrong with the gearbox or the bike on the whole. Two rides just to be sure and the second one after they'd lubed and adjusted all the joints and chain, clutch etc for me as a good gesture.

Funny story actually, well lets be honest its not funny because this bike loves to hate me and make me look like a potato. Spent some time talking with the mechanic and co-owner outside the workshop and they both said how smooth and well it rode (just the mechanic on this part) and was a better example than most that passes through of a similar model. Seemed to be surprised how well I'd maintained it and kept it clean (I assume rust free). Mechanic showed me how to do a couple of adjustments and answered a few questions and then got back to work as I set off.

£27 in total. I'm sure they could have charged me more (labour) but I wasn't complaining. All in all was just the adjustment of the clutch, gear shift lever position and then adjusting / lubing a few parts.

I'll be doing nothing but riding the thing for the foreseeable future... if I can even manage that.