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Kawasaki ER6 charging problems

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marlc0
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 13:37 - 19 Mar 2016    Post subject: Kawasaki ER6 charging problems Reply with quote

So, as per the title. A little backstory, too.

Bike had been stood for a few months over winter, took it for it's MOT, passed no issues, then rode it 30 mins into town, just after shutting the engine off, went to re-start it, and the battery was dead. Got a jump start on it, and it sat running fine for 5 mins, then 2 mins after setting off, it died, and i had to get it towed home.

Changed the battery, charged it, and ran the bike up and checked it with a multi-meter, and it's only just to say charging it, when i put any lights on, the level just dies off.

So, backstory over, i know it's not charging properly, I've had a look for spares, it's not just a one part change out, so what does BCF think i need to spend my money on, generator bits, or a reg/rec?
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Islander
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PostPosted: 13:52 - 19 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Voltages at the battery terminals with the ignition on, the engine idling and revving at 4-5k?
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Taught2BCauti...
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PostPosted: 16:47 - 19 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don't know exactly what to check for or how old your battery is, the best way forward is to start with a known good battery and check the voltages like Islander said.

Charging systems won't usually charge a duff battery, and that is normally the cheapest component.
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marlc0
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 19:07 - 19 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, some volts for you.

With the ignition off, and been off charge for a few days, it was 13.16V

On idle, 12.28V
sitting between 3-4K, 12.28V

This is a band new battery, about a month old, so no concerns about that, so i'm thinking it's the bike.

Now what do you think i should do?
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 19:17 - 19 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the stator gives you AC voltage out. There is no charging going on at the moment as the voltage is the same no matter how high you rev it. If you get AC voltage out of the stator, then your rectifier is dead. A rectifier is a diode that converts AC to DC, if the diode is dead, no current nor voltage will get past the dead rectifier.

I'm pretty positive it's the REG/REC unit. But, check the stator first, just in case. Thumbs Up

Kawasaki p.n. 21066-0705 (pretty generic part = not expensive)
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Islander
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PostPosted: 19:32 - 19 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

marlc0 wrote:
Okay, some volts for you.

With the ignition off, and been off charge for a few days, it was 13.16V

On idle, 12.28V
sitting between 3-4K, 12.28V

This is a band new battery, about a month old, so no concerns about that, so i'm thinking it's the bike.

Now what do you think i should do?


That sounds like a reg/rec problem.
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Taught2BCauti...
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PostPosted: 09:29 - 20 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Disconnect the Reg/Rec and look for the 3 yellow wires that come from the alternator. Label them 'A', 'B', and 'C'.

Now with the multimeter set to read AC Volts and the engine ticking over, check the voltage from A - B, A - C, and B - C.

The readings you get will help to eliminate the alternator windings and the Reg/Rec without taking anything else apart.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 17:45 - 20 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

It'll be a dead reg/rec. I recommend changing it for a MOSFET one. Second hand is ok, MOSFET reg/recs are tough.
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marlc0
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 10:33 - 24 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Changed the reg/rec for a new unit, and it's still not charging. Probably should have checked the alternator output first, really.

So, what's next guys?
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 10:44 - 24 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, check the stator gives you AC voltage, which I suspect it doesn't. You have to do the AC test with the engine running. The Ohm test (resistance) is done with the engine off. Thumbs Up

Do as Taught2BCautious says, the 3 yellow wires. The alternator cover is on the sprocket side, there will be a black cable going out of the engine cover.

Like so - between the sprocket cover and the silver engine lid (I think I can see the plug, next to the injector unit. Unplug it, and check it is the 3 yellow wires under the cable sleeve):
https://www.seastarsuperbikes.co.uk/Kawasaki%20images/er6n/er6n%20eng%20lg.jpg
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marlc0
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 17:52 - 29 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right then, got a few pics, to show you what i've done.

https://goo.gl/photos/axfgedesRqZUnxL79

So, that pic shows what i'm calling A-B, and the battery volts.

A-C = 1.7, B-C = 2.0

So, i've no idea what i'm looking for, just want to make sure i'm doing it right, and if so, what does it mean?
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Islander
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PostPosted: 20:28 - 29 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

You won't read battery voltage at the stator. You need to measure the output of the stator with the engine running - note that you need to change ranges to AC volts rather than DC.
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marlc0
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PostPosted: 20:59 - 29 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
You won't read battery voltage at the stator. You need to measure the output of the stator with the engine running - note that you need to change ranges to AC volts rather than DC.


Sorry, I should have said, the battery pic was just supplementary, mostly just posted so you could tell me if I was testing it right, I'm not much of a sparkie.

The engine was running, on idle, and that's the readings I got from the engine side of the wire.

What do now?
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Islander
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PostPosted: 21:29 - 29 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks like you have no output from the alternator. Did you measure the resistance of the stator windings? It might be worth checking that as a belt and braces approach but from the voltage readings it does look like a dead stator.
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marlc0
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PostPosted: 08:47 - 01 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
It looks like you have no output from the alternator. Did you measure the resistance of the stator windings? It might be worth checking that as a belt and braces approach but from the voltage readings it does look like a dead stator.


I'm guessing I was to check the resistance at the same points? If so, a-b was 0.8 ohm's, a-c 0.6 and b-c 0.6ohms.

This was with the meter set at 200 in the ohm's scale.

So, new stator needed?
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Islander
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PostPosted: 12:08 - 01 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like it.
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marlc0
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 17:12 - 01 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://goo.gl/oUe4kj

Got the stator out, and it looks a like it's burnt out. Ah well, best get looking for a new one.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 01 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, it's dead. You could find a bloke, who'd rewind it for you, but I wouldn't bother, just buy a new part. It is a generic part, no need to be looking for a ER6 specific one.

p.n. 21003-0042 Thumbs Up
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Islander
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PostPosted: 17:21 - 01 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

marlc0 wrote:
https://goo.gl/oUe4kj

Got the stator out, and it looks a like it's burnt out. Ah well, best get looking for a new one.


Yep, that looks a bit toasted. Laughing
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