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Starting a bike after 18 months

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owl10
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Starting a bike after 18 months Reply with quote

Hi all,

Finally putting my zx6r j1 (carbed) back together, and thinking of how to restart; BCF advice gratefully received!

Last time bike was run was 18 months ago, since then it's been turned over about 1 year agoon the starter with the tank removed.

Oil is at least 18mths old.


My basic plan is to put bike in 6th, turn back wheel and make sure it turns over.

Then spray a load of carb cleaner into the carbs, and turn over on the starter

Finally hook up a remote fuel tank and see if it comes alive. If it does, I'll drop oil and use new oil.


Has this any chance of working???

Worth dropping oil and using fresh for first start?


I'm probably not mechanically willing to strip and rebuild carbs; would I risk any damage by not doing so?

Thanks.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 22:00 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why change the oil? Mineral oil is a good few million years old. If it starts it starts, if not start worrying about it!
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd run it up to temp and then drain the oil and replace.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 22:13 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why the oil change Paddy? Bike has not run for 18 months, oil is 18 months old.
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wristjob
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PostPosted: 22:32 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

id drop a soupspoon full of oil down each plug hole and hand turn the engine a few rotations,(nobody likes a dry ring)
then fuel it and start it.
if it wont start then find out why.
much less work than fixing problems it might have.
this presumes it was a runner when it was put away and it hasnt been stored in a pond.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 22:35 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm with Ariel on this. It's the contaminates and heat cycles from running that degrades the oil. If it's sat in an engine for 18 months doing nothing then I'd be using it without any worry. It 'might' of got a bit of water in it but it'll evaporate once the engine has run properly.


OP, 18 months is nothing. Charge battery and crank it over. Easy start is your friend.
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owl10
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PostPosted: 22:36 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't remember oil type, most likely fully synthetic of some type, was put in fresh for the bike trip on which I crashed (hence bike not being started for a while),

Probably closer to 2 years now I think about it

Bike was running when recovered, and started in the garage every few weeks originally as was planning to return to the road fairly quickly - life has gotten in the way..
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 23:30 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

After a rebuild or wakening up a long term 'sitter'
I like to whip the plugs out and turn it over until the oil light goes out a few times before firing it up in anger.
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 23:39 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ariel Badger wrote:
Why the oil change Paddy? Bike has not run for 18 months, oil is 18 months old.


Because shitty vacuum tapped Ninja and unchecked oil after crashing and possibly having petrol down there.

For the price of 5 quid I'd be doing it. 10 if you change the filter. Cheaper than an engine.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 00:11 - 03 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

It ain't gonna start first turn so the pump will shove some oil around. The head will still have oil in the cam wells anyway. Charge the battery and crank it.
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Diggs
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PostPosted: 00:42 - 03 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clean the plugs first, put a new battery on it as the old one won't hold charge and will only leave you bumping it the first time you turn the engine off, some new fuel then press the magic button. Remember that your brake pistons have probably seized, your chain will have dry links and that your clutch plates may be stuck, so don't try to ride it until you have looked at these and run it on a paddock stand in gear for a few minutes. Its a good way to check for leaks too without going for a spin and getting stranded....
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 08:39 - 03 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jeez, it's 18 months not years. I'd hook up something with 12v and give it a go, not my bike mind, your bike your risk.
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Diggs
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PostPosted: 08:51 - 03 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

My comment about the new battery still stands as it will almost certainly be shagged. Bear in mind I have owned GS550s where a shagged battery means certain burning out of electrics as there is nothing to absorb the excess charge (done that...), I own a Mk1 Speed Triple where a weak battery means a new sprag clutch (not done that but know folk who have...) and nearly ridden my GSXR into a wall when bumping off at a petrol station with a flat battery.
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owl10
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PostPosted: 23:50 - 03 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Checked battery today.... 1.15v on multimeter....

Got a car battery with 12v in garage, is attaching jump leads a bad idea?
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owl10
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PostPosted: 23:50 - 03 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Checked battery today.... 1.15v on multimeter....

Got a car battery with 12v in garage, is attaching jump leads a bad idea?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 06:41 - 04 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope, that'll work. Just put red-red, black-black.
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Diggs
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PostPosted: 08:04 - 04 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Connect black-black before red-red and disconnect red before black...

Don't leave on for more than a split second or you may smell burning, which is rarely good. Honestly, buying a new bike battery is the safest option!
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Now - Speed Triple, old ratty GS550, GSXR750M
Gone (in order of ownership) - Raleigh Runabout, AP50, KH125, GP125, KH250, CBX550, Z400, CB750FII, 250LC, GS550, ZXR750H1, Guzzi Targa, GSX750F, KH250 x2, Bimota SB6R and counting...
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 09:55 - 04 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Diggs wrote:
Connect black-black before red-red and disconnect red before black...

Don't leave on for more than a split second or you may smell burning, which is rarely good. Honestly, buying a new bike battery is the safest option!


Why? 12v is 12v irrespective of battery size. It will only draw the amps it needs.
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BillyJ
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PostPosted: 17:12 - 04 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've always attached positive before negative and on removal taken negative off first, that way you can't short the spanner against the frame when you tighten up the positive battery nut.
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 17:14 - 04 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

BillyJ wrote:
I've always attached positive before negative and on removal taken negative off first, that way you can't short the spanner against the frame when you tighten up the positive battery nut.


^^ This is what I do too, neg off first and on last.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 19:16 - 04 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Diggs wrote:
Connect black-black before red-red and disconnect red before black...

Don't leave on for more than a split second or you may smell burning, which is rarely good. Honestly, buying a new bike battery is the safest option!


That's totally backwards. With the blacks connected if you touch ANYTHING metal with red you'll get a short.

Always connect red first. Always disconnect black first.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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ZebraDriver
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PostPosted: 21:32 - 04 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are connecting jump leads. ALWAYS touch the last connection onto the terminal before letting the crocodile clip grip onto the terminal. You will probably get a small spark (because of the difference in voltages).
Do this because if you have got the leads the wrong way around and you clip on the last lead there will be a big arc welding type flash with damage to the terminal, the leads, and possibly the bikes electrics. Touching the last terminal in this way may not save the bikes electrics but it will avoid welding things together.

ZD
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ZebraDriver
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PostPosted: 21:33 - 04 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are connecting jump leads. ALWAYS touch the last connection onto the terminal before letting the crocodile clip grip onto the terminal. You will probably get a small spark (because of the difference in voltages).
Do this because if you have got the leads the wrong way around and you clip on the last lead there will be a big arc welding type flash with damage to the terminal, the leads, and possibly the bikes electrics. Touching the last terminal in this way may not save the bikes electrics but it will avoid welding things together.

ZD
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BillyJ
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PostPosted: 21:42 - 04 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZebraDriver wrote:
If you are connecting jump leads. ALWAYS touch the last connection onto the terminal before letting the crocodile clip grip onto the terminal. You will probably get a small spark (because of the difference in voltages).
Do this because if you have got the leads the wrong way around and you clip on the last lead there will be a big arc welding type flash with damage to the terminal, the leads, and possibly the bikes electrics. Touching the last terminal in this way may not save the bikes electrics but it will avoid welding things together.

ZD


That can only happen if you are connecting one battery to another, if you are just using jumper leads to connect an external battery to your bike electrics, the only spark you will get will be tiny one (if any at all).


The tiny spark is due to the load from the bikes electrics that draw current even when the bike is off, ive found that only newer bikes spark a little when connected up as they have more electronics always powered.
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Diggs
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PostPosted: 07:43 - 05 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have I been doing it wrong all these years!!! I was always told to have the earth connected at all times when connecting or disconnecting the positive to avoid possible damage. You do get a small spark 'tis true, but it reduces the potential for other problems.

Do we have a qualified auto-electrician in the house to clear this up? I am happy to stand corrected... Question
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Gone (in order of ownership) - Raleigh Runabout, AP50, KH125, GP125, KH250, CBX550, Z400, CB750FII, 250LC, GS550, ZXR750H1, Guzzi Targa, GSX750F, KH250 x2, Bimota SB6R and counting...
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