Bearing Puller or Punch tools

[Commuter_Tim]

So turns out the punch tools I use are not quite long enough for a Bandit wheel, and I'm looking for new tools.

Given the option are bearing pullers better than punch tools?
____________________
The above post is most likely nonsensical.

I ride a Bandit 600... badly.

[Beehive Bedlam]

Two garages I've recently visited didn't even have bearing pullers one even told me they're shit.

Knock them out. Noob.

[G]

Didn't find a blind bearing puller that useful. Easier to just get a longer punch.

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

I tried to remove my wheel bearings with a brass drift recently but they wouldn't budge and I found it difficult to get purchase on them so I ended up getting the bike shop to do the job. I don't know what they used. After wheel painting I fitted new bearings myself using a hammer and socket but they seemed to require a hell of a beating. In contrast I made up a bearing driver for the swing arm using a threaded rod, nuts and washers from Wickes and it seemed much better. It left me thinking that if I did it again I'd get a bearing puller/ driver kit. I'll be interested to read the other replies on this thread.

[Nobby the Bastard]

You know that metal pole that holds the shower head up in your shower?

perfect for the job.

Pretty good for forks as well.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Islander]

You can buy long drifts quite easily.

[RhynoCZ]

I use sockets from the socket set and hammer. To knock the bearings out or to seat them in. Just pick the right diameter socket, use the extender if needed and knock the bastard bearings out.

EDIT: When trying to seat a bearing in, use gentle taps, don't smash the bearing.
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[Nobby the Bastard]

[RhynoCZ]

Yes, I do.
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[Evil Hans]

Me too! Not all that unusual!
____________________
Triumph Sprint ST 1050. And it's Red.

[Pete.]

Good internal pullers work just fine. Sockets make good drifts for fitting things but they nearly always have a chamfered edge so using them for removing races that are all but flush with the seat can be very frustrating, and the same goes for fitting bearings it's easy to smash in the the shield. A drift set is a tenner on eBay:

https://r.ebay.com/Z2aGJt
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Commuter_Tim]

Cheers fellas.
Alas I'm in a house time warped to the 1950s and don't have a shower.
Think I will opt for longer punches and a drift set.
Who doesn't like whacking shit with a hammer anyway?
Blowtorches and hammers are 2 of the main reasons I enjoy working on bikes.

A brass drift has me intrigued though, surely the metal would be soft as shit compared to bearing races?
____________________
The above post is most likely nonsensical.

I ride a Bandit 600... badly.

[Pete.]

Brass, aluminium, copper, bronze, steel, hardened steel drifts all have their places and uses. Brass is quite soft and non-marring. Harder than copper and aluminium but softer than bronze and steel. For knocking out bearing racer I prefer a round mild steel drift with square-cut edges to catch that little bit of lip.

Quite often I'll see where people before have used a cold chisel or old screwdriver and invariably there will be damage to the seat.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Commuter_Tim]

So bought these cheap bitches: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003TO2JYY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Knocked them out with ease.

Question on fitting the new ones...

I did them in the order Haynes suggested for the rear, but the spacer couldnt be moved at all.
I very carefully drifted it back out a bit and now the spacer can be pushed sideways with a finger, but if I turn the inner race one side, the other moves too.

Is this normal or do I need to drift it back out until the other side stops moving in synch? (I can twist them independantly if I use both hands).

Haynes suggests nothing about spacer movement.

EDIT: found the answer in Bodyguards thread, you sure do get about Pete.
Unless I read your post incorrectly as long as the spacer moves sideways a bit then a bit of friction shouldn't matter?
____________________
The above post is most likely nonsensical.

I ride a Bandit 600... badly.

[Pete.]

If both races turn together but you can slightly slide the spacer on the face of the bearing then you're ok - just put it together. If the spacer was jammed tight or loose to rattle you would want to adjust the bearing fit.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Commuter_Tim]

Cheers again man.
____________________
The above post is most likely nonsensical.

I ride a Bandit 600... badly.