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Few engine problems. Unsure where to start.

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Artens
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 09 Aug 2016
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PostPosted: 11:11 - 22 Aug 2016    Post subject: Few engine problems. Unsure where to start. Reply with quote

Hi. I have wk 125 N . I started hearing ticking noise 100 miles before. Ticking increases when i rev. Seems like valves needs to be cleaned and refitted again . Also, on 3rd gear, when i pull the clutch in, for example if im slowing down, engine makes disgusting sound, or if i stop without clutch ( just release rev ) it looks like grinding noise. ( no noise on other gears). And, i cant exceed 50mph.. I sometimes reach 52-54.. It should do 60-70. So the questions are :
1. When i do the valve clearance, and when i clean them, do i need to change their seal? Or if it not broken can i use it again?
2. What is the problem with that sound?
3. How can i diagnose what causes it to dont exceed 50mph?
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 11:20 - 22 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

How old is it? Any warranty? If so I wouldn't touch it take it to a dealer.
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lihp
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PostPosted: 11:26 - 22 Aug 2016    Post subject: Re: Few engine problems. Unsure where to start. Reply with quote

Artens wrote:

3. How can i diagnose what causes it to dont exceed 50mph?


Go on a diet.
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 11:30 - 22 Aug 2016    Post subject: Re: Few engine problems. Unsure where to start. Reply with quote

Artens wrote:
Hi. I have wk 125 N . I started hearing ticking noise 100 miles before. Ticking increases when i rev. Seems like valves needs to be cleaned and refitted again . Also, on 3rd gear, when i pull the clutch in, for example if im slowing down, engine makes disgusting sound, or if i stop without clutch ( just release rev ) it looks like grinding noise. ( no noise on other gears). And, i cant exceed 50mph.. I sometimes reach 52-54.. It should do 60-70. So the questions are :
1. When i do the valve clearance, and when i clean them, do i need to change their seal? Or if it not broken can i use it again?
2. What is the problem with that sound?
3. How can i diagnose what causes it to dont exceed 50mph?


problems could be related to each other, could be separate issues

pick the problem you can identify what the issue is, resolve that, test, next problem.

Sorry I can't offer specific advice beyond that
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 11:36 - 22 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Help us to help you.

Can you show us a picture of your bike's engine, with any plastics removed. Chances are that it's a copy of either the Suzuki GS125 engine, or the Honda CG125. Whichever it is, you should find yourself a workshop manual for the original bike/engine and follow that for the valve clearances.

If it's the Suzuki copy, it'll have a camchain and it could be a tensioner problem. If it's the Honda then it's pushrods and you'll just have to do the locknuts on the rockers.

The grinding noise sounds like the gear selector is shagged. Again, what you do next is entirely down to what the engine is. You may find that it's cheaper and easier to buy a used engine and sling it in than to pay someone to disassemble yours.

These bike commonly lie about their top speeds. A real 55mph is about what you should expect, 60 tops. However, it's fairly likely the the first owner has dicked around with it in some way. Give it a hard ride then kill the engine, get the spark plug out, and let's see what colour it is.
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Artens
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 11:41 - 22 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a few seconds, i will give you all info u ve asked
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Artens
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 11:49 - 22 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is the engine


https://www.part.lt/img/1858b031ffff6fcc7a77d799102c5b89898.JPG

https://www.part.lt/img/abee85b4b0b2025205deae027f0d7e1e721.JPG

https://www.part.lt/img/16e0e100f5126c738379498f42d2619f473.JPG
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Artens
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 11:51 - 22 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

About diet: i am tall, my weight is 70kg. And no it has no warranty since i am second hand owner.
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Artens
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 11:58 - 22 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

And about the dealership and new engine. I am studying motor vehicle maintenancs myself, and id like to get pracrise on bikes, i know what i am doing but i am confused with 125cc engines..
Thanks for any advice given.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 13:14 - 22 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Huh, that's unusual. It looks like the CG copy-engine, but it's water cooled (the original CG was air cooled). It should still be a pushrod OHV engine, but I'd check for a cam chain tensioner on the back of the barrel just in case they've done something really crazy.

With the air cooled CG, adjusting the valves couldn't be simpler, following this procedure. The top cover has a re-usable rubber seal. I'd follow that guide until and unless you find any differences.
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Artens
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 08:52 - 23 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do think it is valve clearance that needs to be done. Because i have quite big performance drop, and also as far as i am concerned one valve is ticking. Can i ride the bike for 4 more days since i have to get to work, and on weekend i fix it?
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 09:19 - 23 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably. Chattering valves means that they're not opening optimally, which will just mean a loss of performance. If they were too quiet, and not fully closing, you could be burning them out. A little clatter is better than none.

I'd be more concerned with your gearbox issues. If you do have to replace the selector shaft or cam, I'd suggest buying Honda parts (CG125 or XLR125) rather than getting soaked by WK.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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Artens
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 12:02 - 23 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

My lexmoto arrow 125( last bike ) engine got hit through with valve since clearance wasnt done right, so that will be first thing to do since i dont want this to happen again. And about the gearbox issues. Are you sure that different bike parts will fit my bike?
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 12:24 - 23 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Artens wrote:
My lexmoto arrow 125( last bike ) engine got hit through with valve since clearance wasnt done right

Verified by yourself, or is that what a mechanic told you? If you want it done right, you do have to do it yourself. It's very simple on these copy-engines.


Artens wrote:
Are you sure that different bike parts will fit my bike?

I'm sure that it's not a "WK" engine. It'll be a Lifan or Qingqi or one of a dozen Chinese makes, most of which are parts-interchangeable.

I'd just suggest not paying a premium to WK for a generic part, is all.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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Artens
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 13:06 - 23 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for help, i will order all the parts next week, and on september, probably 12th-15th i will update this topic to let you know how i am doing with it Smile
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 13:18 - 23 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

What parts? You don't know what's wrong yet.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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Robby
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PostPosted: 16:19 - 23 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you recently did the valve clearances, then they are unlikely to need doing again, unless you cocked it up and either got the clearance wrong, or didn't tighten the locknuts back up.

With a metallic ticking noise, the first thing is to change the exhaust gasket. That's the cheapest and easiest way of eliminating a metallic tick.

For the drivetrain noise, what state are the chain and sprockets in?
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carpe_diem
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PostPosted: 17:27 - 23 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
What parts? You don't know what's wrong yet.


All the parts.
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jjdugen
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PostPosted: 17:35 - 23 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is PLAINLY an OHC engine. It might even be DOHC, it looks very similar to the ones fitted in the latest Derbi, no idea which Chinese factory they come out of.
It is NOT a CG or GS copy. (FFS, when did ANY of them have water-cooling!)
It looks like WK is cast into the cylinder head, first stop wold be to try and get a workshop manual for it before dicking about.

Cheers
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 19:26 - 23 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

OP, what bike is it?
It's an easily answered question!
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Rogerborg
nimbA



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PostPosted: 19:30 - 23 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a WK SS125N. Best of luck.

Here's an HN125-8 engine (157FMI), which I can assure you most certainly is a pushrod CG copy, vs OP's engine, which I'll take a stab at being marked as 156 or 157UMI.

https://i.imgur.com/KgEPN1u.pnghttps://i.imgur.com/e6tstso.png

Let's see what OP finds when he whips the top off, shall we?
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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Falco
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PostPosted: 23:35 - 23 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
If you recently did the valve clearances, then they are unlikely to need doing again, unless you cocked it up and either got the clearance wrong, or didn't tighten the locknuts back up.


This is spot on. Supposedly they only need done every ~5000 miles (unless the valves are new).

I would like to point out that even when properly adjusted the CG engine is pretty "clattery", to my ears at least.
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Artens
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 16:54 - 24 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good evening fellow riders! Didint expect as much replies. I have bought some chain grease and valve clearance gauge. I wont check anything untill weekend since i need to go to work and back. I will have a look at exhaust gasket, it might be the problem, yes! Because sometimes but really rarely engine just spits ( not backfires) and stops. Yet no problems to start it again. I feel some kind of compression drop. Bike has 4k miles and valves hasnt been done.to be honest, lsst onwer didint tske care of bike. I have ordered service manual aswell, will be really helpfull. About the sprocket and chain.. I am not entirely sure how to inspect either of these, any advice or tutorials would be appreciated.
And again, thank you for your kind replies, it drives me off that there are so many nice people trying to help out.
Best regards,
Arturas
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Rogerborg
nimbA



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PostPosted: 17:24 - 24 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whatever you do, don't over-tighten the exhaust bolts just to see if you can get a better seal - they'll come apart faster than a Corbyn train parable. Spray some soapy water around where the exhaust enters the engine first, see if you get bubbles.

Your chain adjustment procedure will be along the lines of this.

Any markings on your swinging arm are likely to vary, and the amount of slack required, and whether to test with the bike on its side stand or not, is bike specific.

The rule of thumb is that you want some slack in the chain when you're sitting on the bike. It shouldn't be drum tight, and it shouldn't be flapping up and down or pulling away from the back of the sprocket.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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Artens
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 10:33 - 25 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont know alot about the bikes, because i am learning motor vehicle maintenance, ( cars) and i am trying to learn as much as possible about bikes. The thing is, that it wont be sprocket or chain. Because, 1st,2nd gears are just fine. 3rd makes noise, but does not effect driving. 4 is good and on the 5th all i get is 2mph more than 4th gear and less rpm. The thing is that it doesnt make any sound on 4th and 5th gear. If it was sprocket it should make sound as soon as the bike speed gets greater. But the thing is, that even if i pull clutch on, there is somd really weird sound coming from either the gearbox or engine. When i change gear to up or down, noise is gone. Look i can upload a video of 3rd gear noise
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