Mercedes CLK200 Kompressor Advice

[winz]

After Rhyno's thread about Merc's...

I am going to look at a 2000 Mercedes CLK200 Kompressor tomorrow, after a run around instead of using the bike in the shit weather. Very cheap (sub 1k), tiny amounts of rust from what I have been told and lacquer is slightly off in places, but going to have a look at it tomorrow.

It's the Avantgarde model with sat-nav, 135k on the clock with full mercedes history until 125k

Apart from electrics, is there anything I need to look out for?

Cheers!
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Current Bikes: BMW K1200S
Previous: Honda CBR929RR, Honda CBR1100XX, Honda CB600F

[RhynoCZ]

Rust, if there are already holes in the doors or elsewhere, but the front wheel arches, walk away. Let's hope it's a manual gearbox one, if an automatic, then you do want to know every single bit about the previous maitnence. Mercedes-Benz automatic gearboxes are very reliable, but only when you take care of them, which is something people don't normally do. Regular gearbox oil changes, for instance. You can check the oil level in an automatic gearbox from the engine compartment, it's located close to the single blade wiper. The fluid should be pink. If it's dark or even brown, it's time to change it, if it's black = walk away.
Also have a listen to the kompressor, if it's whining, excessively, the bearings are worth changing.

If A/C is equiped, it's good to know that when the EC button is ON, it means the A/C is off. Just to test the unit. The owners would often claim they have no idea if the A/C is on or off, and that it worked before etc. etc.

Now, before you start the car, check all the lights on the dash are actually working*. Some people solve the car issues by taking out the bulbs from the check lights of the dash. When driving, none of the check lights should be ON.
Also, there might be BAS ASR system in the car, if that check light is on, even when driving, it could mean 2 things, 1) very cheap fix, just change the brake light switch at the brake pedal (a known fault), 2) a very expensive fix that still remains a mystery to me.

*If it's got the onboard computer with the LCD screen in the speedo, the same applies, no faults should be showing during driving.

** By the way, don't care much if the TIME and TEMP LCDs are broken, those are a very easy fix and very well known issue, there are rebuild kits all over the internet.

Other than that, do the typical check for leaks and differential whining. It should be dead quiet when you drive.

EDIT: One more place to check. My w202 and w210 and I do believe the CLK would be the same, when you look at the firewall in the engine comparment, on the left hand side (where the continentals would have the wheel and master cylinder; I do believe it's the head intake side), there is a plastic bit in the firewall that connects 2 hoses. That is the return of the engine coolant from the heating element in the cabin. Some cars develop cracks in that plastic part, which result in the coolant leak. So check for wetness there as well.

This bit, the leak is mostly very slow. The answer to the constant losing coolant mystery. (not expensive, easy to change):

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/3RMAAOSwxp9W7RFz/s-l300.jpg

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/attachments/w202-c-class/190263d1218523369-please-help-me-identify-coolant-leaking-img_0043.jpg
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[winz]

Cheers Rhyno, greatly appreciated!
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Current Bikes: BMW K1200S
Previous: Honda CBR929RR, Honda CBR1100XX, Honda CB600F

[Itchy]

Dad had one a decade ago.

Essentially you want to know the service history. Namely because people like my dad would phone me up and I'd go round and press the button combination on the dash to say that it had been serviced.

While you may think this is terrible. It never did more than 200 miles a year. When he sold it to a merc dealer they were incredulous that it had <3600 miles on it. Almost all 2000 of those miles were airport car park and back.
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Spain 2008France 2007Big one 2009 We all die. The goal isn't to live forever, the goal is to create something that will. In the end, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it is worth watching.

[RhynoCZ]

Glad to help, and remember although the brand Mercedes-Benz might sound intimidating, the most of the spare parts, for these older cars, are very cheap and ubiquitous. Brakes, exhaust systems, engine parts..., all avalible used and brand new for sometimes even less money, than the equivalent for a VW concern car.

And also, as these cars = all Mercedes-Benz cars from about 1993 up to 2006 were very rust friendly, so there are more than a plenty of parts at brokers and people selling their rust buckets for spares basically for free. I just saw a w202 C200 for spares the other day. The whole car for 150 quid and if it wasn't rotten, it would be still a fully working road worthy car.

The intimidation factor also plays well for you, the informed buyer. People selling their Mercedes-Benz cars for cheap because something is wrong, yet it's just a silly repair, that would set you back 3 tenners, and they have no idea whatsoever.

EDIT: When you drive the CLK, it should be a smooth and quiet drive. The CLK, that I was driving before I got my w202 (2.0L no Kompressor) was just like my C200 CGI is. Very, very, very smooth and quiet with suprisingly very strong low revs perfromance. Going 30mph at the 5th gear, flooring the accelerator and the car just smoothly gained speed, no hesitation, no vibration. Just sitting in the car at idle, I couldn't even tell, the engine was running. I was amazed and that moment I knew, I was gonna buy a Mercedes-Benz.
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

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[Hong Kong Phooey]

Supercharger = relatively easy to change the pulley ratio to up the torque.
A brief check shows 200 bhp, circa 300 NM is in easy reach.

Supercharger also = pelican potential (big bill)

Might have already been done, which can be a plus or minus.
I'm doubting you're buying it for performance though.

Check service history is genuine, trivial to fake it.

Rust, MB of this era are renowned for it as everyone above concurs with your initial inspection.
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'81 CG125, '97 FZS600 : '99 CBR600F4, '09 KTM RC8

[winz]

Here is the link https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MERCEDES-CLK-200-KOMPRESSOR-AVANTGRADE-COMAND-SAT-NAV-/201658618421?hash=item2ef3ca5235:g:rCsAAOSwdIFXyH6Q

Just hoping the rust isn't an issue.

Thank you all for the replies!
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Current Bikes: BMW K1200S
Previous: Honda CBR929RR, Honda CBR1100XX, Honda CB600F

[Hong Kong Phooey]

Rusty brake pipes are the highlight of the recent MOT advisories:
https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/

Not worth chancing it, if buying get fixed ASAP, any slight movement and they could leak.

Headlamps can probably be polished back to life, probably needs tyre(s).

Make sure service history dates & mileages tally with the ones in the MOT check. Also he says he's had it 8 years, and it's not done that many miles since 2006. Be interesting to see how many services in the last 8 years...
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'81 CG125, '97 FZS600 : '99 CBR600F4, '09 KTM RC8

[MarJay]

I've heard that they aren't particularly great cars. Reasonable to look at, but limp performance and soggy handling.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

[RhynoCZ]

[winz]

[RhynoCZ]

I'd buy a set of mildly used winter tyres.

I actually bought a set of winter 15'' wheels with winter tyres (5mm/6mm tread) for 100 ponds.
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[Hong Kong Phooey]

[Shaft]

If you do decide to buy it, do yourself a favour and change the supercharger oil; nobody ever bothers on any of the K motors and it takes no time or money really, compared to the cost of swapping the blower when the bearings go South.
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Things get better with age; I'm close to being magnificent........
20 RE Interceptor, 83 Z1100A3, 83 GS650 Katana
WooHoo, I'm a Man Point Millionaire! https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=234035

[zark]

New tyres, exhaust leaks and brackets gone... You'd be doing him a favour taking it off him...
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CBT - Oct 13. Theory - July 14. Mod 1 & 2 - June 15.
Rides a Fazer like an idiot... Edit: Now ride a Fazer Thou...

[winz]

I decided against it as it really isn't worth the hassle getting things sorted, just need something that works really. But there isn't a huge rush. Plenty of other cars out there.
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Current Bikes: BMW K1200S
Previous: Honda CBR929RR, Honda CBR1100XX, Honda CB600F

[RhynoCZ]

Looking at ebay.co.uk, there are more than a plenty of Mercedes-Benz cars for sale. Took me 4 months to find a nice car for reasonable money, with no rust. And I declined many offers. The budget is a very restricting thing when it comes to 10-20 years old cars. Nice cars don't come cheap and the market is filled with cheap lemons and rust buckets. But, if you'll be patient, there's going to be a nice car in your budget.

I almost bought a BMW instead, but after I could have a poke around my mate's E39, I decided not to go this way, as I find his car very overcomplicated. Don't take me wrong, BMWs are very reliable cars + they don't rust that willingly, but when something goes wrong, it's then when the fun really starts. And that is why I gave up on that. I do like the in-line 6 sound and feel though, very unique and enjoyable experience. The car also pushes you to drive faster, as it just doesn't feel right when you're going slow. The steering is heavy, the clutch will work out your left leg muscles and the throttle si feather light. Great cars for boyracers, even the Touring version has this racing feel.
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[winz]

I do currently have my eye on a 325 coupe and a 330 touring. As I am not in a rush I don't mind waiting for the right car. However I might go and have a look at those two tomorrow.
____________________
Current Bikes: BMW K1200S
Previous: Honda CBR929RR, Honda CBR1100XX, Honda CB600F

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[RhynoCZ]

Go ahead, I say try as many vehicles as you can and settle down with the one that suits you the best.
I made a list of cars and motorcycles, that I'd like to own at some point and that's why I never kept any of my motorcycles nor cars, gonna sell the w202 in summer. Also, this way I'm not loosing any money, I even earn a bit. I buy a motorcycle/car for a reasonable sum of money, do the maintenance, ride/drive it for a year and then sell it for what the maitnence cost was + some interest. Although sometimes I have to tell 6 out of 10 people to feck off with their silly offers, I always sell for what I ask.

@mpd72:
Not expensive to keep a BMW alive, but tricky. I've seen a BMW that would refuse normal engine behaviour only because one of the O2 sensors was not made by Bosch or other brand. It took the owner months and 3 mechanics to figgure that out. The engine would run alright, then it would just run on 4 cylinders for some reason and then it would stall. Just like an Apple device knowing you are not using a Apple charger.

The oil separator, also a nice job to do, it's buried deep down in the engine compartment, and so on.

EDIT: IF you decide to go for the 5 series, go for the 528 instead of the 523 and 525. All these engines give quite the same MPG, so why having less power and torque for the same petrol money.
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

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