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| Mat_ryall |
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 Mat_ryall Derestricted Danger
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| Nobby the Bastard |
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 Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar

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| Mat_ryall |
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 Mat_ryall Derestricted Danger
Joined: 15 Oct 2016 Karma :    
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 Posted: 19:07 - 15 Oct 2016 Post subject: |
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Cheers, I've brought it inside and put it on a radiator (the CDI box not the bike ) I'll see if that makes a difference. This all started after I left the bike out uncovered in the rain all night. Any ideas where else I could try? |
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| Nobby the Bastard |
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 Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar

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| Mat_ryall |
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 Mat_ryall Derestricted Danger
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| carpe_diem |
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 carpe_diem Trackday Trickster

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 Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar

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 Mat_ryall Derestricted Danger
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| mudcow007 |
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 mudcow007 World Chat Champion

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| Mat_ryall |
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 Mat_ryall Derestricted Danger
Joined: 15 Oct 2016 Karma :    
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 Posted: 10:55 - 16 Oct 2016 Post subject: |
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Hi, yep I have fuel and air, cleaned the air filter, drained a good bit of fuel through the carb and plug is wet. It's a kick start.
I've tested the HT coil and all the wires from the pick up coil to the cdi unit. Everything checks out. Is there any way of testing the cdi unit?
Do you know if these are very specific to bike year?
Battery voltage is good, horn sounds when ignition on and all lights working. I don't have a kickstand, do you know if there are any other interlocks I should be looking for?
Cheers for your help pulling my hair out trying to fault find this! |
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| B0ndy |
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 B0ndy Spanner Monkey

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| Mat_ryall |
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 Mat_ryall Derestricted Danger
Joined: 15 Oct 2016 Karma :    
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 Posted: 12:07 - 16 Oct 2016 Post subject: |
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Thanks, ideally I'd like to swap over the CDI unit with one from a working bike to see if it's the problem. Someone at work has a later model electric start bike hence my query about compatability. I'm going to check over all my connections this afternoon, give everything a good spray with WD40 and try again. Replaced HT coil, lead and plug. Still no joy, I really don't want to shell out on a CDI box without being certain it's the problem!
Anyone in the Frome area with a Honda CG125 with CDI? |
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 12:35 - 16 Oct 2016 Post subject: |
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First check is always the plug for sparks; then damp, then carb, the compression.
You checked the plug; you got a spark; it's damp.. WHY in hells name do you keep re-visiting the same thing over and over, after its checked 'OK'?!?!?!
If you got a spark, you got a fucking spark!!! what are you hoping a new CDi will do the one you got currently isn't!?!?
A new spark plug probably wouldn't go amis; you can get pretty useful looking sparks in free air that dissapear in the cylinder when that air is compressed to 10x atmospheric and theres rather a lot more molecules between the electrodes for it to pass through; but, that'll be the plug, not teh CDi.
CG has a self exited ignition, too. It's seperate from the rest of the electrics; one winding in the generator does nothing but make electric for the sparks; depends on the engine spinning to make it, so on an e-start bike if the starter's lazy it can striggle to spin it enough to make enough electric for a good spark. Kick-start tends to be a bit lazier than e-start and so can take a bit more oomph to get it delivering enough electric to make sparks, but you are getting them off a kick, so you are getting them off a kick; ONLY notion that may effect it is that its a damn site easier to kick a bike over with the plug out with not compression against the piston, so you could be getting more spark kicking to test than you do kicking to start... BUT you are still getting a spark! Try a new plug.. and kick it harder, try bumping in 2n'd gear.
CDi ignition is fixed timed, so should be little chance that the spark is happening at the wrong time; so apart from the spark plug, you have pretty much eliminated the ignition system as the cause of your problem.
And dont matter how much you would LIKE it to be somethiung 'simple' that can be fixed by twiddling a wire, fiddling with a switch, or plugging in a new component..... if its all checked out, its all checked out!!! Look elsewhere!
Rule of thumb compression test. Stick your thumb over the plug hole, and see if you can hold it there while some-one else kicks the engine over.
If you can.. you dont have any compression..
Get the manual; follow basic service procedures... particularly for tappet adjustment and I recommend if you haven't got'em buying the Honda Tappet tools from Dave silvers to make it easy and avoid rounding tappet squares or chewing tappet lock-nuts.
That aught eliminate posibility that tight tappet clerances are holding a valve open so you dont get any compression.
If that doesn't improve matters; THEN you need to start looking elsewhere, and do possibly a propper compression test on a guage.
A Kickstart or duelstart CG aint going to be any spring chicken, and will either be high mileage, likely to have worn its bore and rings beyond, or it'll have been layed up for long periods, rings gumming in the piston grooves, again, likely to give poor compression and excessive bore wear; good chance it needs an overhaul and a rebore or re-barrel.
Could be tired old head gasket has 'gone' or the head has warped so gasket don't seal; but they both still need to the top end stripping and overhauling, and symptom is the same in a low guage reading compression test.
BUT that is where you go after checking you got sparks and juice in the pot....
I SUSPECT, that a new spark-plug and a tappet tickle / basic service, and you'll find the thing springs into life with a hotherto unobserved zest, though...
But, you have checked the sparks, and got'em; at the moment there is absolutely NO reason to suspect that the bludy CDi, probably THE most reliable part of your motorcycle is in ANY way 'suspect'.. so why persist trying to blame the bludy thing?!?! ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| Mat_ryall |
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 Mat_ryall Derestricted Danger
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 17:12 - 16 Oct 2016 Post subject: |
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| Mat_ryall wrote: | had to use the rubber 'push on' adapter. |
You would probably have got a more accurate reading with your thumb over the plug hole.
On a small displacement engine, difference in volume added by the spark plug hole is a hugely more significant fraction.
I wouldn't trust a push in reading on an engine that small.
Next up.. how many hands do you have?
One to push the compression tester into the pot, one to hold the throttle wide open..... can you get a leg round to kick it over whilst you do that?
If you didn't have the throttle wide open, you wont get an accurate compression reading; the engines not sucking in anything to compress.
And you tend not to get a very good reading off a kick-start because it turns the motor over so slow.
Method is so spuriouse its almost worthless.
IF tappets tickled and a new plug fitted hasn't seen it pop back on form, though, yeah, it is suggesting the motor is in need of more significant remedial....
BUT: before I dived in and pulled the cylinder head off for a shuftie, I would look again at the fueling. An engine will be loath to start from over fueling as like ad under; I'd pull the carb, strip and clean, paying particular attension to the float and float needle.
I'd probably try a squirt-start, squibbing 'neat' petrol into the inlet tract, and seeing if without any carb I the way I got some signs of life.
Then I'd pop the head to have a look-see.
As to query of whether wear would see it conk as described; I don't know. Often these things are a cumulative effect of variouse progressive faults. Bore wear on it's own, would generally see an engine becoming 'cantankerouse'; loath to start, more difficult to start when hot hot or cold; being loath to 'pick up' on the throttle, or more prone to power fading at speed and generally not being so consistant; a more pronunced 'conk' would not likely happen unless a ring has snapped or been 'trapped' by the groove being smeared or peened slapping around in the cylinder.
HGF can be anomolouse; likely to 'conk' if the motor has over heated; but can then run, probably poorly, when cooled again; or can just 'go' and then refuse to go again, depending how its failed. sometimes they track, sometimes they burn.
But faults can mask faults;
Ignition system 'bottomed', tappets tickled, go back and re-visit the carb; then re-evaluate.
And go by what you KNOW.. not what was once upon; deal with the symptoms as they are here and now; which is it has a spark, but dont wanna start.
DON'T let history or ideas or hopes detract from the basic principle of diagnostics, which is eliminating variables, one at a time, systematically and methodically. TEST, don't Guess. ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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 Robby Dirty Old Man

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 Mat_ryall Derestricted Danger
Joined: 15 Oct 2016 Karma :    
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 Posted: 19:04 - 16 Oct 2016 Post subject: |
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You're right, I need to get a grip here Thanks for all your advice, I'll go back to the carb and see how that goes.
Water in fuel? I drained a good jam jar out the bottom of the carb and no signs. I'll pull the carb and try a bit of fuel squirting, thanks for that. Like you say need to start element ing some variables.
I need a beer |
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| symonh2000 |
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 symonh2000 Crazy Courier
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 Mat_ryall Derestricted Danger
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 Mat_ryall Derestricted Danger
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 Petemate Trackday Trickster
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 05:34 - 20 Oct 2016 Post subject: |
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A 'bit' of carbon build up?!?!?!?!?!?! Struth!!!
Yeah! - COULD BE! - the problem has been revealed - made too soon!
That carbon has got to have come from somewhere though.. hasn't it?Its been burning oil a while, that has.
Oil gets in the pot to get burned from one of three routes;
1/ HeadGasket failure no sign of tracking on your head, though, so more likely....
2/ Valve Guides, worn or stemseals shot
3/ Rings / Bore - ring snapped/ bore worn / scored.
4/ All of the above!
Overhaul the thing.
Get a chinky barel kit; it'll be as cheap as a rebore & piston.
Head might scrub up if you strip it and soak everything in oven cleaner; lap the valves and fit new stem seals; but if it needs more than that, then it's probably as cheap to get a new chinky head off ebay, as get the valve seats recut, face skimmed and new guides pressed in.
There's hope for it; that lot wont be 'too' expensive; wont be a five quid five minute fix; but could be done in a weekend for around £100 and it'll put more life into the thing than it had when you got it, so worth the doing. ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| Mat_ryall |
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 Mat_ryall Derestricted Danger
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 11:06 - 21 Oct 2016 Post subject: |
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| Mat_ryall wrote: | Cleaned up the head and valves and lapped them. I've ordered a new valve stem oil seal, exhaust only, the inlet didn't seem to be fitted with one. |
curiouse.. my initial reaction was "Well that could explain how the oil got in the pot!" But checking schematics on CMSL, it seems there isn't a stem seal on the inlet!
I'd do a thumb suck test to get an idea if the guides are beyond it. Valve in the guide, push it down the guide until its flush with the top and you can put your thumb over the end of the guide, and turn the head right way up so that the valve can drop out (make sure it has something soft, not too far away to land on!) If the valve drops out, then the valve guide be buggered. If it stays put under the vacuum, or just drops slowly, it's probably not too bad. If you can pull it a short way, quickly, and it'll hold the vacuum well enough to suck back a bit, then likely pretty good.
| Mat_ryall wrote: | I was going to pull the barrel off this evening to have a look at the piston and rings before I order a kit. Are these Chinese kits OK then? I've seen one on e-bay for my year for 40 quid! |
The ones I have bought for the CB125 twins have been fine.
The build quality of chinky bikes, is mostly down to the poor QC on the build, as much as on components, and their motors tend to be not too bad and outlast the rest of the bike.
For what they cost, and compared to just buying individual gaskets, I'd probably fit one up, just as a matter of course, whilst I had the motor apart, to save having to do it later.. though you still have a question mark over the head.
Check the kit you pick though, and make sure you get cylinder, piston, piston rings, gudgeon pin & Circlips, base and head gaskets.
Most I have seen have been around the £50 mark and up.
| Mat_ryall wrote: | Any tips on reassembly |
DONT RUSH - Put the kettle on, take your time; follow instructions in the book.
Get some twostroke oil, or some clean vegetable oil, in a taka-away tub or similar; soak the piston rings in the oil over night before trying to fit them to the piston.
Use the rest of the oil in the tub to lube up the piston and bore before you try pusing one in t'other, so they go together easier, and you have some lube there for first crank and start up. 2T or vegoil is a light lube and burns off fairly easily and more completely than engine oil. BUT, you may want a spare spark plug for second fire and set up after first fire and 'burn off'.
Piston rings are little BASTADS! They are brittle, and they will snap easily, if you are heavy handed trying to wiggle them onto the piston.
I start with the bottom rings, and work them down from teh top, little by little... then do the middle ring, then the top.
trying to work lower rings over uppers, tends to just get in a tangle; trying to work lower rings from the bottom of the piston usually a pain having to wiggle them that much further, and past the gudgeon pin bosses.
Deep breath; gentle touch, take your time. DONT RUSH, and plenty of oil.
Make sure the gasket faces are meticulousely clean before you try assembling anything; and be pretty diligent cleaning everything else.
Beware, scraping bottom gasket off the crankcase, ALWAYS scrape away from the conrod to the outside of the engine to avoid scraping shit into the crankcase.
DONT get paranoid if you do... but get the faces clean, then turn the engine upside down and tip out any crud, possibly even flush with parafin or deisel. And plan on doing a flush and fill after first fire.
Make sure you have the engine facing the right way when you fit the piston to the conrod; piston should be marked 'in' or 'front' or with an arrow to denote which way round it goes... but it is easy to get it crossed up!
Before fitting piston to conrod; fit ONE gudgeon circlip to the piston, and put the gudgeon pin into the boss on the other side, then line it up... dont force it, give a likkuw wiggle it'll hook up, and when you push gudgeon 'home' circlip should stop it coming out the other side.... which can be embaressing and have folk hopping and juggling!
Remember to fit the other circlip to hold the gudgeon in before trying to put the barrel over!
Piston ring compressors, as sold for car engines where pistons are slid in to the engine block from the top, rather than cylinders slid over the piston, tend to be more hassle than they are worth.
Bottom of the cylinder should have slight chamfer on it to ease ring ingress, though, and you aught be able to squash the rings in gently, by hand wiggling the cyl over the top side to side a little.
Again, DONT rush and DONT force.
And remember the base gasket!
Thats where most, self included, have a "DohW" moment.. after stern concentration of getting rings on piston, and piston in pot... realising they have to come apart again to put the gasket on!!!!
Head ready; that should drop on the top without much hassle; then it's just torquing it down on the new headgasket, following the tightening pattern, going round each stud in turn and 'stage' tightening to specced torque setting, making sure you are using a torque wrench of the right (probably low, 0-25Nm) range, and you have set the right number on the right scale, and haven't mixed up Kg/f with Nm or Ft-lb or anything.
Drop the push rods in; good form to dab a bit of grease on the ends for first fire lube; set up the rockers, tickle the tappets; then GENTLY turn the motor over on the rotor bolt, gently feeling that it turns over reasonably freely and the valves don't wallop the piston or anything, plus work lube round and up and down the bore before first fire.
Dont be too quick to get the plug back in the hole and the thing started up; time, care and attension; make sure the exhausts hooked up; carb's connected properly; and silly stuff like the petrol pipe IS actually connected before you turn the tap on, and try starting...
Patience, care, attension to detail; and shouldn't cause too much trouble.
Best of luck. ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| Mat_ryall |
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 Mat_ryall Derestricted Danger
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 Posted: 19:26 - 21 Oct 2016 Post subject: |
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Thanks for your advice on all of this, very much appreciated.
I've now removed the barrell and it all looks a bit shitty
Inlet side is badly scored and the top two rings are stuck and worn flush, bit of a chunk out of the edge of the cylinder too.
I'll order a kit....
Only problem is I can't get the old piston off, I've removed the two circlips but the gudgeon pin won't budge. I've heated the piston, given it a 'tap' while wedging the conrod with a bit of timber and moved it about a quarter of an inch, won't move any further.
Piston is rotating on the pin, pin is stuck in conrod. If that makes sense.
Not quite sure what to do next, maybe make something out if a bit of threaded rod to push it out? |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 9 years, 116 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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