Resend my activation email : Register : Log in 
BCF: Bike Chat Forums


CG125 cdi 'black box'

Reply to topic
Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop Goto page 1, 2  Next
View previous topic : View next topic  
Author Message

Mat_ryall
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 15 Oct 2016
Karma :

PostPosted: 15:30 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: CG125 cdi 'black box' Reply with quote

bike recently stopped in traffic and I have been unable to start it since! I think it's an electrical fault, I have fuel to the carb and the plug is wet after I've kicked it over a few times.

The bike is a 1999 cdi model with electronic ignition, kick start.

I've tested all the electrical components, hit coil, pick up coil etc and got good readings within the ranges stated in the manual. Only thing I don't seem to be able to test is the sealed black box of electronics (cdi box?). I have a spark when I turn the engine over but it seems quite rapid, I was only expecting to see 2 or 3 fat sparks?

I've seen a few of these cdi boxes on eBay but not for my year of bike. Does anyone know if they are very specific? i.e. would a later electric start box fit my earlier kick starter? I'm sure I read somewhere that a CB125 box would work but they're twin cylinder no?

If anyone has any advice on this or even if you think there's something else I should try first I'd be very grateful.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
Karma :

PostPosted: 15:56 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

My experience is that it's almost always not the cdi at fault.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Mat_ryall
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 15 Oct 2016
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:07 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers, I've brought it inside and put it on a radiator (the CDI box not the bike Very Happy ) I'll see if that makes a difference. This all started after I left the bike out uncovered in the rain all night. Any ideas where else I could try?
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:21 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mat_ryall wrote:
Cheers, I've brought it inside and put it on a radiator (the CDI box not the bike Very Happy ) I'll see if that makes a difference. This all started after I left the bike out uncovered in the rain all night. Any ideas where else I could try?


You could try covering it jam and then getting the dog to lick it.

You're a Fucknut. It's a sealed unit.

Sticking on the radiator will, at best, just warm it up.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Mat_ryall
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 15 Oct 2016
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:25 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks mate..... You've been a great help

Anyone else have any ideas?
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

carpe_diem
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 28 Jul 2016
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:29 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:


You could try covering it jam and then getting the dog to lick it.


And that's why I'm not allowed in the pet shop any more Sad
____________________
Currently riding: Suzuki EN125 | Previous rides: Vespa 125PX, Yamaha SR125
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:30 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mat_ryall wrote:
Thanks mate..... You've been a great help



NP
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Mat_ryall
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 15 Oct 2016
Karma :

PostPosted: 10:04 - 16 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
My experience is that it's almost always not the cdi at fault.


Do you actually have any experience then? Because all you've managed so far is a bit of name calling. Not actually able to offer any advice eh!......fucknut Clapping
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

mudcow007
World Chat Champion



Joined: 01 Feb 2012
Karma :

PostPosted: 10:45 - 16 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

To make the bike go, you need fuel, air and spark

Plug is wet - so you got fuel

Unless you done something really stupid, you should have air - what is the filter like?


Have you tried replacing the plug?

Plug cap/ Lead?

When you are trying to start it are you kicking it or 'leccy starting it?

Battery voltage/ age?

Kill switch?

Side Stand switch?

Start with the basics first
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Mat_ryall
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 15 Oct 2016
Karma :

PostPosted: 10:55 - 16 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, yep I have fuel and air, cleaned the air filter, drained a good bit of fuel through the carb and plug is wet. It's a kick start.

I've tested the HT coil and all the wires from the pick up coil to the cdi unit. Everything checks out. Is there any way of testing the cdi unit?

Do you know if these are very specific to bike year?

Battery voltage is good, horn sounds when ignition on and all lights working. I don't have a kickstand, do you know if there are any other interlocks I should be looking for?

Cheers for your help Smile pulling my hair out trying to fault find this!
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

B0ndy
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 25 May 2015
Karma :

PostPosted: 11:38 - 16 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mat_ryall wrote:
Is there any way of testing the cdi unit?


A couple of years ago I wanted to know the answer to this question, my CB400SF caused me all sorts of problems - some days it wouldn't start at all, other days it would start but after switching it off and on after a ride it wouldn't start up.

From what I remember, there isn't a way to test the CDI unit and the recommendation, from what I've read, seems to be to test every other electrical piece of equipment until you isolate it is the CDI.

In the end after spending hours testing other components I replaced the CDI, in the two years of ownership I then never had a problem with the bike not starting or dieing.

It's difficult because no one wants to recommend replacing the CDI to find it's not at fault but at the same time it's difficult to tell whether it's the problem.
____________________
CBF 125 -> CB400SF -> GSX600F -> ZX6R (G1) -> GSXR1000 K4 -> ZX6R (B1H Stunt bike) -> VFR800 -> R1 5PW -> Sprint 1050 -> Fireblade 929 -> ZX10R C2H -> GSXR1000 K3
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Mat_ryall
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 15 Oct 2016
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:07 - 16 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, ideally I'd like to swap over the CDI unit with one from a working bike to see if it's the problem. Someone at work has a later model electric start bike hence my query about compatability. I'm going to check over all my connections this afternoon, give everything a good spray with WD40 and try again. Replaced HT coil, lead and plug. Still no joy, I really don't want to shell out on a CDI box without being certain it's the problem! Smile

Anyone in the Frome area with a Honda CG125 with CDI?
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:35 - 16 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

First check is always the plug for sparks; then damp, then carb, the compression.

You checked the plug; you got a spark; it's damp.. WHY in hells name do you keep re-visiting the same thing over and over, after its checked 'OK'?!?!?!

If you got a spark, you got a fucking spark!!! what are you hoping a new CDi will do the one you got currently isn't!?!?

A new spark plug probably wouldn't go amis; you can get pretty useful looking sparks in free air that dissapear in the cylinder when that air is compressed to 10x atmospheric and theres rather a lot more molecules between the electrodes for it to pass through; but, that'll be the plug, not teh CDi.

CG has a self exited ignition, too. It's seperate from the rest of the electrics; one winding in the generator does nothing but make electric for the sparks; depends on the engine spinning to make it, so on an e-start bike if the starter's lazy it can striggle to spin it enough to make enough electric for a good spark. Kick-start tends to be a bit lazier than e-start and so can take a bit more oomph to get it delivering enough electric to make sparks, but you are getting them off a kick, so you are getting them off a kick; ONLY notion that may effect it is that its a damn site easier to kick a bike over with the plug out with not compression against the piston, so you could be getting more spark kicking to test than you do kicking to start... BUT you are still getting a spark! Try a new plug.. and kick it harder, try bumping in 2n'd gear.

CDi ignition is fixed timed, so should be little chance that the spark is happening at the wrong time; so apart from the spark plug, you have pretty much eliminated the ignition system as the cause of your problem.

And dont matter how much you would LIKE it to be somethiung 'simple' that can be fixed by twiddling a wire, fiddling with a switch, or plugging in a new component..... if its all checked out, its all checked out!!! Look elsewhere!

Rule of thumb compression test. Stick your thumb over the plug hole, and see if you can hold it there while some-one else kicks the engine over.

If you can.. you dont have any compression..

Get the manual; follow basic service procedures... particularly for tappet adjustment and I recommend if you haven't got'em buying the Honda Tappet tools from Dave silvers to make it easy and avoid rounding tappet squares or chewing tappet lock-nuts.

That aught eliminate posibility that tight tappet clerances are holding a valve open so you dont get any compression.

If that doesn't improve matters; THEN you need to start looking elsewhere, and do possibly a propper compression test on a guage.

A Kickstart or duelstart CG aint going to be any spring chicken, and will either be high mileage, likely to have worn its bore and rings beyond, or it'll have been layed up for long periods, rings gumming in the piston grooves, again, likely to give poor compression and excessive bore wear; good chance it needs an overhaul and a rebore or re-barrel.

Could be tired old head gasket has 'gone' or the head has warped so gasket don't seal; but they both still need to the top end stripping and overhauling, and symptom is the same in a low guage reading compression test.

BUT that is where you go after checking you got sparks and juice in the pot....

I SUSPECT, that a new spark-plug and a tappet tickle / basic service, and you'll find the thing springs into life with a hotherto unobserved zest, though...

But, you have checked the sparks, and got'em; at the moment there is absolutely NO reason to suspect that the bludy CDi, probably THE most reliable part of your motorcycle is in ANY way 'suspect'.. so why persist trying to blame the bludy thing?!?!
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website You must be logged in to rate posts

Mat_ryall
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 15 Oct 2016
Karma :

PostPosted: 14:55 - 16 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, thanks for all of this. I'll stop going round in circles with the ignition system then!

I ended up down that cul de sac because it just stopped running in traffic.

Already changed the plug so this afternoon I checked valve clearances, a little tight but some play, adjusted them to the correct gap.

Did a compression check and it seems pretty low, albeit with a cold engine and my compression gauge doesn't have a thread small enough so had to use the rubber 'push on' adapter.

I got 80psi, manual says between 140 - 170psi warmed up.

So it looks like I need to start stripping the top end then?

It started first time every time before this problem, do you think I would have seen a gradual drop off in performance and increasing difficulty to start if it was a worn engine?

Would it more likely be a blown head gasket?... or a burnt out valve?

I guess either way I ain't riding my bike again for a bit! Fuck.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 17:12 - 16 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mat_ryall wrote:
had to use the rubber 'push on' adapter.

You would probably have got a more accurate reading with your thumb over the plug hole.
On a small displacement engine, difference in volume added by the spark plug hole is a hugely more significant fraction.
I wouldn't trust a push in reading on an engine that small.
Next up.. how many hands do you have?
One to push the compression tester into the pot, one to hold the throttle wide open..... can you get a leg round to kick it over whilst you do that?
If you didn't have the throttle wide open, you wont get an accurate compression reading; the engines not sucking in anything to compress.
And you tend not to get a very good reading off a kick-start because it turns the motor over so slow.
Method is so spuriouse its almost worthless.

IF tappets tickled and a new plug fitted hasn't seen it pop back on form, though, yeah, it is suggesting the motor is in need of more significant remedial....

BUT: before I dived in and pulled the cylinder head off for a shuftie, I would look again at the fueling. An engine will be loath to start from over fueling as like ad under; I'd pull the carb, strip and clean, paying particular attension to the float and float needle.

I'd probably try a squirt-start, squibbing 'neat' petrol into the inlet tract, and seeing if without any carb I the way I got some signs of life.

Then I'd pop the head to have a look-see.

As to query of whether wear would see it conk as described; I don't know. Often these things are a cumulative effect of variouse progressive faults. Bore wear on it's own, would generally see an engine becoming 'cantankerouse'; loath to start, more difficult to start when hot hot or cold; being loath to 'pick up' on the throttle, or more prone to power fading at speed and generally not being so consistant; a more pronunced 'conk' would not likely happen unless a ring has snapped or been 'trapped' by the groove being smeared or peened slapping around in the cylinder.

HGF can be anomolouse; likely to 'conk' if the motor has over heated; but can then run, probably poorly, when cooled again; or can just 'go' and then refuse to go again, depending how its failed. sometimes they track, sometimes they burn.

But faults can mask faults;

Ignition system 'bottomed', tappets tickled, go back and re-visit the carb; then re-evaluate.

And go by what you KNOW.. not what was once upon; deal with the symptoms as they are here and now; which is it has a spark, but dont wanna start.

DON'T let history or ideas or hopes detract from the basic principle of diagnostics, which is eliminating variables, one at a time, systematically and methodically. TEST, don't Guess.
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website You must be logged in to rate posts

Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
Karma :

PostPosted: 17:30 - 16 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

How did it behave when it died in traffic? Did it just stall at tickover, did it feel like it was running out of petrol for a minute beforehand?

The bike clearly started ok that morning, then died and didn't want to restart. It is unlikely to be something really terminal.

The bits I would look at are:
1. Plug - which you have done.
2. Idle adjuster slipping - should still start on choke with a hint of throttle.
3. Water in the fuel. Particularly if it had been washed or got wet for the first time in a while the previous day. Drain the carb and look for water.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Mat_ryall
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 15 Oct 2016
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:04 - 16 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're right, I need to get a grip here Sad Thanks for all your advice, I'll go back to the carb and see how that goes.

Water in fuel? I drained a good jam jar out the bottom of the carb and no signs. I'll pull the carb and try a bit of fuel squirting, thanks for that. Like you say need to start element ing some variables.

I need a beer
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

symonh2000
Crazy Courier



Joined: 20 Feb 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:08 - 16 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not had a CG125 CDi unit fail, but I did have one fail on a TZR125

So although it is unlikely, I wouldn't completely rule it out if more obvious checks don't solve the issue.

The issue I had was first a loss of performance, on one ride. The next day it wouldn't start at all with no sparks with the plug removed and resting against the cylinder head.

After checking everything I got a replacement CDi and all was well again.
____________________
Four strokes is two strokes too many.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Mat_ryall
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 15 Oct 2016
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:46 - 19 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

So whent through checks on the fuel stetem again. I've removed and cleaned the carb and following Teflon-Mikes advice, tried squirting fuel into the inlet. Nothing.

Removed the head tonight, the valves look like they have a lot of build up on them, as does the crown of the piston. There doesn't seem to be any obvious damage or wear. See pics.

If they've uploaded!

Could the fouling on the valves cause lie compression, gasket looks ok.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Mat_ryall
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 15 Oct 2016
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:51 - 19 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Second pic
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Petemate
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 13 Nov 2015
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:40 - 19 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mat_ryall wrote:
Second pic


No second pic. However - strewth, it looks a bit grubby in there Mat!
Good luck with getting it going again, keep us posted.
Pete
____________________
82 not out....1983 Honda LA250 Custom
2008 Saab 9-3 1.9 Tid 150 Vector Sport estate
2005 Stirling Eccles Topaz 2-berth
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 05:34 - 20 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

A 'bit' of carbon build up?!?!?!?!?!?! Struth!!!
Yeah! - COULD BE! - the problem has been revealed - made too soon!

That carbon has got to have come from somewhere though.. hasn't it?Its been burning oil a while, that has.
Oil gets in the pot to get burned from one of three routes;
1/ HeadGasket failure no sign of tracking on your head, though, so more likely....
2/ Valve Guides, worn or stemseals shot
3/ Rings / Bore - ring snapped/ bore worn / scored.
4/ All of the above!

Overhaul the thing.

Get a chinky barel kit; it'll be as cheap as a rebore & piston.
Head might scrub up if you strip it and soak everything in oven cleaner; lap the valves and fit new stem seals; but if it needs more than that, then it's probably as cheap to get a new chinky head off ebay, as get the valve seats recut, face skimmed and new guides pressed in.

There's hope for it; that lot wont be 'too' expensive; wont be a five quid five minute fix; but could be done in a weekend for around £100 and it'll put more life into the thing than it had when you got it, so worth the doing.
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website You must be logged in to rate posts

Mat_ryall
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 15 Oct 2016
Karma :

PostPosted: 08:15 - 21 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cleaned up the head and valves and lapped them. I've ordered a new valve stem oil seal, exhaust only, the inlet didn't seem to be fitted with one.

I was going to pull the barrel off this evening to have a look at the piston and rings before I order a kit. Are these Chinese kits OK then? I've seen one on e-bay for my year for 40 quid!

Any tips on reassembly (I've not done this before), obviously new top and bottom gasket. Any other bear traps I need to watch out for? This is turning into a bit of an epic job but at least I'm learning a bit about bike mechanics!.... and like you say it should put some life back into it for a bit
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 11:06 - 21 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mat_ryall wrote:
Cleaned up the head and valves and lapped them. I've ordered a new valve stem oil seal, exhaust only, the inlet didn't seem to be fitted with one.

curiouse.. my initial reaction was "Well that could explain how the oil got in the pot!" But checking schematics on CMSL, it seems there isn't a stem seal on the inlet!

I'd do a thumb suck test to get an idea if the guides are beyond it. Valve in the guide, push it down the guide until its flush with the top and you can put your thumb over the end of the guide, and turn the head right way up so that the valve can drop out (make sure it has something soft, not too far away to land on!) If the valve drops out, then the valve guide be buggered. If it stays put under the vacuum, or just drops slowly, it's probably not too bad. If you can pull it a short way, quickly, and it'll hold the vacuum well enough to suck back a bit, then likely pretty good.

Mat_ryall wrote:
I was going to pull the barrel off this evening to have a look at the piston and rings before I order a kit. Are these Chinese kits OK then? I've seen one on e-bay for my year for 40 quid!

The ones I have bought for the CB125 twins have been fine.
The build quality of chinky bikes, is mostly down to the poor QC on the build, as much as on components, and their motors tend to be not too bad and outlast the rest of the bike.

For what they cost, and compared to just buying individual gaskets, I'd probably fit one up, just as a matter of course, whilst I had the motor apart, to save having to do it later.. though you still have a question mark over the head.

Check the kit you pick though, and make sure you get cylinder, piston, piston rings, gudgeon pin & Circlips, base and head gaskets.

Most I have seen have been around the £50 mark and up.

Mat_ryall wrote:
Any tips on reassembly


DONT RUSH - Put the kettle on, take your time; follow instructions in the book.

Get some twostroke oil, or some clean vegetable oil, in a taka-away tub or similar; soak the piston rings in the oil over night before trying to fit them to the piston.

Use the rest of the oil in the tub to lube up the piston and bore before you try pusing one in t'other, so they go together easier, and you have some lube there for first crank and start up. 2T or vegoil is a light lube and burns off fairly easily and more completely than engine oil. BUT, you may want a spare spark plug for second fire and set up after first fire and 'burn off'.

Piston rings are little BASTADS! They are brittle, and they will snap easily, if you are heavy handed trying to wiggle them onto the piston.

I start with the bottom rings, and work them down from teh top, little by little... then do the middle ring, then the top.

trying to work lower rings over uppers, tends to just get in a tangle; trying to work lower rings from the bottom of the piston usually a pain having to wiggle them that much further, and past the gudgeon pin bosses.

Deep breath; gentle touch, take your time. DONT RUSH, and plenty of oil.

Make sure the gasket faces are meticulousely clean before you try assembling anything; and be pretty diligent cleaning everything else.

Beware, scraping bottom gasket off the crankcase, ALWAYS scrape away from the conrod to the outside of the engine to avoid scraping shit into the crankcase.

DONT get paranoid if you do... but get the faces clean, then turn the engine upside down and tip out any crud, possibly even flush with parafin or deisel. And plan on doing a flush and fill after first fire.

Make sure you have the engine facing the right way when you fit the piston to the conrod; piston should be marked 'in' or 'front' or with an arrow to denote which way round it goes... but it is easy to get it crossed up!

Before fitting piston to conrod; fit ONE gudgeon circlip to the piston, and put the gudgeon pin into the boss on the other side, then line it up... dont force it, give a likkuw wiggle it'll hook up, and when you push gudgeon 'home' circlip should stop it coming out the other side.... which can be embaressing and have folk hopping and juggling!

Remember to fit the other circlip to hold the gudgeon in before trying to put the barrel over!

Piston ring compressors, as sold for car engines where pistons are slid in to the engine block from the top, rather than cylinders slid over the piston, tend to be more hassle than they are worth.

Bottom of the cylinder should have slight chamfer on it to ease ring ingress, though, and you aught be able to squash the rings in gently, by hand wiggling the cyl over the top side to side a little.

Again, DONT rush and DONT force.

And remember the base gasket!

Thats where most, self included, have a "DohW" moment.. after stern concentration of getting rings on piston, and piston in pot... realising they have to come apart again to put the gasket on!!!!

Head ready; that should drop on the top without much hassle; then it's just torquing it down on the new headgasket, following the tightening pattern, going round each stud in turn and 'stage' tightening to specced torque setting, making sure you are using a torque wrench of the right (probably low, 0-25Nm) range, and you have set the right number on the right scale, and haven't mixed up Kg/f with Nm or Ft-lb or anything.

Drop the push rods in; good form to dab a bit of grease on the ends for first fire lube; set up the rockers, tickle the tappets; then GENTLY turn the motor over on the rotor bolt, gently feeling that it turns over reasonably freely and the valves don't wallop the piston or anything, plus work lube round and up and down the bore before first fire.

Dont be too quick to get the plug back in the hole and the thing started up; time, care and attension; make sure the exhausts hooked up; carb's connected properly; and silly stuff like the petrol pipe IS actually connected before you turn the tap on, and try starting...

Patience, care, attension to detail; and shouldn't cause too much trouble.

Best of luck.
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website You must be logged in to rate posts

Mat_ryall
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 15 Oct 2016
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:26 - 21 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for your advice on all of this, very much appreciated.

I've now removed the barrell and it all looks a bit shitty Sad

Inlet side is badly scored and the top two rings are stuck and worn flush, bit of a chunk out of the edge of the cylinder too.

I'll order a kit....

Only problem is I can't get the old piston off, I've removed the two circlips but the gudgeon pin won't budge. I've heated the piston, given it a 'tap' while wedging the conrod with a bit of timber and moved it about a quarter of an inch, won't move any further.

Piston is rotating on the pin, pin is stuck in conrod. If that makes sense.

Not quite sure what to do next, maybe make something out if a bit of threaded rod to push it out?
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts
Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 9 years, 116 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
  Display posts from previous:   
This page may contain affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. By clicking on an affiliate link, you accept that third-party cookies will be set.

Post new topic   Reply to topic    Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop All times are GMT
Goto page 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2

 
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum

Read the Terms of Use! - Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group
 

Debug Mode: ON - Server: birks (www) - Page Generation Time: 0.14 Sec - Server Load: 0.74 - MySQL Queries: 13 - Page Size: 147.85 Kb