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Gearing down to low?

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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 11:52 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Gearing down to low? Reply with quote

Probably a stupid question this...but hey ho

Riding in this morning, I geared down a little bit too much for a corner.

when i came off the clutch, the back of the bike sorted of squirmed all over the place/ possibly wheel locked up (i haven't seen any scuff marks on the tyre or anything though)

Im guessing this was because the engine was rotating faster than the wheels/ sprockets so kinda did a bit of engine braking?

that make sense?

I normally tend to ride as clutchless as possible - as i'm lazy. Riding this way i never experienced squirmyness....?
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tom_e
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PostPosted: 12:03 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Releasing your clutch after downshifting while going too quick for the lower gear will result in your back wheel locking up unless you have a slipper clutch.

Clutchless shifts require you to match revs before shifting therefore it's near impossible to lock the wheel unless you really jump up and down on the shifter and crunch it into a lower gear.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 12:04 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

It won't lock because the engine is always turning, it's when the tire breaks traction to because the engine braking is so strong, keep practicing and combine it with hard braking, it's how you 'Back it in' to a corner.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 12:16 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blip the throttle to prevent this from happening. Thumbs Up
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:18 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few things going on there, all of which reduce available grip.

1) You're under braking so the weight is transferring off the back wheel onto the front one.

2) You're cornering so there is a lateral force on your tyre.

3) You are under engine braking so the tyre is decelerating, applying longitudinal force through the tyre. Effectively because the energy stored in the wheel was, as you say, pushing the engine around rather than the engine pushing the wheel around.

There is a finite amount of grip available which is a function of the road surface (type, temperature, surface conditions), your tyre compound and the amount of downforce (weight) on the wheel.

If the sum of the three factors I mentioned exceeds the grip, the tyre will stop grippiung and begin to slide. That's what happened. The road is cold and wet, you applied a greater than normal deceleration force through the tyre and started to lose grip. The next step is a slide.

Another factor, you still on a lightweight 100cc 2-smoke? Could've been the frame/swingarm/forks flexing under power on a corner.
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Last edited by stinkwheel on 19:28 - 03 Nov 2016; edited 1 time in total
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:19 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
It won't lock because the engine is always turning, it's when the tire breaks traction to because the engine braking is so strong, keep practicing and combine it with hard braking, it's how you 'Back it in' to a corner.


It can lock. That's why they put slipper clutches on bikes.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 12:27 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gearing down too low?

Kids these days! In my day we just said that we had changed down one too many times... Gearing down too low makes absolutely no sense.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 12:35 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

What the man above says.

When at high speed, the moment you disengage the clutch the revs drop, yet the wheel is still spinning quite fast. The moment you engage the cluch again, the engine has to match the speed of the wheel. It will eventually, but it also will lock up your wheel for a moment. It's quite like the other way around. Being stationary, rev the engine up and then just release the clutch lever.

Now, blip the throttle or release the clutch more sensibly. Especially when on a wet surface. Race drivers/riders used to blip the throttle when there was no such a thing as antihopping clutch. Bliping the throttle is way quicker than slipping the clutch.
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G
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PostPosted: 12:57 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

The trick is to leave it a bit later so you're starting to lean, then knock it down a gear too many so the rear wheel is spinning slower than the road speed and breaks traction. As the bike slows down, use the rear brake to keep the rear wheel slowing down faster than the bike, so it stays sliding.

(Caution... you may crash, thought I never have approaching it a little carefully.)
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 13:14 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers all its does all kinda make sense

I will keep at it, updates of crashes to follow....

Oh this was on my 4 mega tonne Bandit.
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notbike
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PostPosted: 13:17 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clutch in, blip throttle a bit or a lot depending on engine note/speed, clutch out.

Never worry about locking a wheel with gears again.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 13:43 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

One more thing, the gear downshift happens during the throtle blip. Practice holding the throttle grip and operating the brake lever with your middle, index or both fingers. I use the middle finger on the brake lever and the rest of the hand firmly holds the throttle.

The moment you get all this right, with a smooth downshift, you're gonna feel like your life is finaly complete. Smile
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 14:26 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
chris-red wrote:
It won't lock because the engine is always turning, it's when the tire breaks traction to because the engine braking is so strong, keep practicing and combine it with hard braking, it's how you 'Back it in' to a corner.


It can lock. That's why they put slipper clutches on bikes.


What locks up, are you saying the engine stops turning?
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 15:25 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

rear wheel im guessing
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M.C
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PostPosted: 18:43 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Re: Gearing down to low? Reply with quote

mudcow007 wrote:

when i came off the clutch, the back of the bike sorted of squirmed all over the place/ possibly wheel locked up (i haven't seen any scuff marks on the tyre or anything though)

Don't buy an MT-03, you'll be dead within 10 minutes Smile You should be coming off the clutch gently anyway, or you can get a bike with a slipper clutch (I dream of such a thing Wub).
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:28 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:


What locks up, are you saying the engine stops turning?


It can. It can stall. Done it on a GPZ500 before when braking like holy hell for a speed trap. Fully locked the rear which was effectively off the ground.

But ok, yes, in most circumstances the rear is normally simply rotating a lot more slowly than the road is going under it.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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thx1138
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PostPosted: 19:33 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made a mistake on my Honda the other day, been riding my 2stroke for the last fortnight and forgot that the engine braking on my Honda is relatively heavy in comparison, didn't exactly lock up, it just sort of 'complained to me' about it. Confused
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G
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PostPosted: 20:25 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Re: Gearing down to low? Reply with quote

Had a slipper clutch on a few bikes (including the KTM690).

Only time I've beenparticularly graretful of them is when trying out race shift on 675(s) on track - means that when you do mess up and change down instead of up coming out of a corner, nothing really bad happens.

On the road, haven't found any real need.
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Old Git Racing
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PostPosted: 22:50 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Practise this more and become a god of backing it in all crossed up. Man up.

OGR.
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Dave70
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PostPosted: 21:59 - 04 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I accidentally did the same as OP once, I didn't like the result at all. I have no intention of trying to purposely carry out such a thing again. In fact, one of my life missions, is to make sure it never happens again.

Does this mean that I have to hand in my man card now. Sad
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 04 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave70 wrote:
I accidentally did the same as OP once, I didn't like the result at all. I have no intention of trying to purposely carry out such a thing again. In fact, one of my life missions, is to make sure it never happens again.

Does this mean that I have to hand in my man card now. Sad


*Warning, possible adult talk*

Not at all, some lads just like it rough, others prefer it smooth. I always try to be as smooth as possible, on a motorcycle being smooth gives you extra stability, in car it's just more comfort. Side effect of being smooth is being gentle to your engine, gearbox and final drive, as well as the rear tyre/s and suspension components.

Bouncing rear wheel of a motorcycle in front of a corner might be fun for some, but not for me. I blip the throttle all the time (when it's reasonable), it's a good habit for when the tar is slippery or wet. Wink
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 08:42 - 05 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
I blip the throttle all the time (when it's reasonable), it's a good habit for when the tar is slippery or wet. Wink


Admit it. You do it because it sounds cool.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 11:08 - 05 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
Dave70 wrote:
I accidentally did the same as OP once, I didn't like the result at all. I have no intention of trying to purposely carry out such a thing again. In fact, one of my life missions, is to make sure it never happens again.

Does this mean that I have to hand in my man card now. Sad


*Warning, possible adult talk*

Not at all, some lads just like it rough, others prefer it smooth. I always try to be as smooth as possible, on a motorcycle being smooth gives you extra stability, in car it's just more comfort. Side effect of being smooth is being gentle to your engine, gearbox and final drive, as well as the rear tyre/s and suspension components.

Bouncing rear wheel of a motorcycle in front of a corner might be fun for some, but not for me. I blip the throttle all the time (when it's reasonable), it's a good habit for when the tar is slippery or wet. Wink


I'm definitely getting old - I'm a recent convert to smooth is king. This in car and on bike. Before, "smooth" was a bit down the list of qualities to try and perfect. But for whatever reason (yes, age possibly being primary), it's become something I pretty much strive for.

Braking sooner - coming onto the brakes softer and earlier, and off again with more care. Sending the bike or car clear "hints" about what's going to happen - changes of direction, speed, both, etc. - before giving more emphatic inputs. Imo getting smoother entails better obs - more anticipation, looking further ahead, etc. But it's more directly physical than that, i.e. how your feet and hands go to work on the controls - making more graduated, considered - but still positive - movements.

Sounds boring as fuck? It kind of is. But otoh, it becomes strangely addictive - and you start to feel like this is the secret to being better in every sense. Safer, comfier (for passengers/pillions), and - yeah - faster.

At some level everyone knows how important smoothness is - but for me at least, it still wasn't something I consistently and diligently prioritised. E.g. fast was more important. Or (in the case of driving) just getting to the god damned destination (and thus being out of Ye Cage). But I'm now firmly of the view that - for me at least although probably most people too - being a decent, safe, fast rider or driver, is entirely dependent on being silky smooth. Exsqueeze the alliteration a sec, but concentration and commitment are crucial. Anyway yes it's taken me a bloody long time to grasp this smoothness thing, and embrace it. Pretty embarrassing in some ways - i.e. it's so obvious. Far from easy though - if only because you can always be smoother.

Also, it's a quite cerebral notion and somewhat at odds with the visceral thrills of "controlling" a vehicle. And it seems to require a degree of discipline that threatens to dilute the excitement and immediate gratification that you get from just fucking well caning the living shite out of it. But if you can find some way to think passed those tensions, smoothness - as an objective - soon prevails. Soz for unleashing the zeal of the convert here, and getting a bit spergy about it all, but this past few months have been a bit sort of damascene on the smoothness front.

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Fin
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PostPosted: 11:38 - 05 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I often lock up the rear wheel on my divvy while engine breaking, I even blip before down shifting, just not enough, and I don't use the front brake enough.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 15:22 - 06 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
A few things going on there, all of which reduce available grip.

1) You're under braking so the weight is transferring off the back wheel onto the front one.

2) You're cornering so there is a lateral force on your tyre.

3) You are under engine braking so the tyre is decelerating, applying longitudinal force through the tyre. Effectively because the energy stored in the wheel was, as you say, pushing the engine around rather than the engine pushing the wheel around.

There is a finite amount of grip available which is a function of the road surface (type, temperature, surface conditions), your tyre compound and the amount of downforce (weight) on the wheel.

If the sum of the three factors I mentioned exceeds the grip, the tyre will stop grippiung and begin to slide. That's what happened. The road is cold and wet, you applied a greater than normal deceleration force through the tyre and started to lose grip. The next step is a slide.

Another factor, you still on a lightweight 100cc 2-smoke? Could've been the frame/swingarm/forks flexing under power on a corner.


Just to chuck the other important factor in to the equation.

When the tyre loses adhesion/grip with the road surface it also loses any braking force.
So the problem is ex-arse-abated. Until road speed slows to the the same speed as the tyre or the 'braking' force is removed/released.

The same principle applies to ABS and is why it is (can be Rolling Eyes ) advantageous for 'skidding' conditions.
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