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Installing handwarmers - how to "cut in"

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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 12:22 - 24 Nov 2016    Post subject: Installing handwarmers - how to "cut in" Reply with quote

This morning was baltic like cold here, my balls only started coming down from inside of my chest by about 10am

Anyways, i have got me a cheap set of handwarmers from fleabay, which came with absolutley no instructions whats so ever, but would presume the "live" wire needs to be cut into a switched live on the bike (and fused too)

Should this be done with a scotchlok? personally i hate them as ive cut through wires with them in the past

Suggestions an answers on a postcode card
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 12:27 - 24 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do a proper job, strip right back and lineman splice it in with a nice bit of solder and heatshrink.

Or don't. Up to you really.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 12:29 - 24 Nov 2016    Post subject: Re: Installing handwarmers - how to "cut in" Reply with quote

Go with a fused relay, e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111581062672 (but fit a 5A fuse).

Procedure is as per stinkwheel's excellent guide:
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=2444272


mudcow007 wrote:
Should this be done with a scotchlok? personally i hate them as ive cut through wires with them in the past

I use them now because bish-bosh, you're done, except when you're not, in which case you're no worse off than you would have been anyway.
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UnknownStuntm...
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PostPosted: 12:36 - 24 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd use something like these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/c-k-automatic-wire-stripper/97204?kpid=97204&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=Cj0KEQiAvNrBBRDe3IOwzLn6_O4BEiQAmbK-DlG7xzRSXUJtW-RY1mV6Cb9Gj0kPOdqTOnl3V6igBOQaAlWO8P8HAQ
strip a small opening in the wires, solder, heatshrink and insulation tape. Anything that makes heat has the ability to draw a fair bit of current. And scotchlocks aren't really designed for current.
And I don't care what their marketing department say.


Last edited by UnknownStuntman on 13:52 - 24 Nov 2016; edited 1 time in total
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:36 - 24 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you must "splice in".

Replace a single terminal with a double one.

Or cut the wire and re-join it with a double terminal.

My heated grips can draw up to 3A so make sure whatever wire you are attaching to can cope with that AND the current it's already carrying. A relay is better.
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 13:28 - 24 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome Thumbs Up I had forgotten about that awesome wiring guide.

Next question - which is probably stupid but hey ho, do the heating elements go :- on top of the grips or underneath.

Im guessing the cheap nasty ones i have bought go on top as they have come with a pair of novelty size heat shrink, which im guessing is designed to go over the grips?

Suppose if they go over the grip they arnt then heating the bars?
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 13:34 - 24 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Over the grips. If they're the same as the ones I just fitted, then you want the wires elements on the inside, facing the grips. The pads curve easily in that direction, but not the other way. A hairdryer should be sufficient for the shrink wrap, although I used a scorchy hot air gun.

UnknownStuntman wrote:
And scotchlocks aren't really designed for current.
And I don't care what their marketing department say.

I'd only ever use one to trigger a relay.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 24 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Over the grips. If they're the same as the ones I just fitted


Yeah pretty much them. Do they work?

Ive had mine connected to a UPS battery in my office to see how warm they get - which is pretty warm.

God knows what they would be like being used in anger though
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 15:22 - 24 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

mudcow007 wrote:
Rogerborg wrote:
Over the grips. If they're the same as the ones I just fitted


Yeah pretty much them. Do they work?

Yup. Single heat setting, they get quite toasty after about 20 minutes, but you can slum it and just flick them off and on to keep the temperature comfortable. I'm using them under muffs, for which they're perfectly adequate.

I had a similar set on my Burgman which stopped functioning after one winter, although I didn't check if the elements had burned through if it my hooky wiring had given up - at that price they're essentially disposable anyway.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 15:26 - 24 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Over the grips. If they're the same as the ones I just fitted, then you want the wires elements on the inside, facing the grips. The pads curve easily in that direction, but not the other way. A hairdryer should be sufficient for the shrink wrap, although I used a scorchy hot air gun.

UnknownStuntman wrote:
And scotchlocks aren't really designed for current.
And I don't care what their marketing department say.

I'd only ever use one to trigger a relay.


How the fuck can they supply that for £2.16p with free postage from China and still make money Shocked
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 15:53 - 24 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
How the fuck can they supply that for £2.16p with free postage from China and still make money Shocked

Huzzah for child labour. It even comes with what small roll of what seems to be self-amalgamating tape. Hang fire, I've not had them on for long, but no problems so far. It's just some pieces of wire in the final analysis, there's nothing complicated in there, and nor does there need to be. All electrical heaters are near enough 100% efficient.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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tom_e
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Joined: 27 Feb 2016
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PostPosted: 15:55 - 24 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
Rogerborg wrote:
Over the grips. If they're the same as the ones I just fitted, then you want the wires elements on the inside, facing the grips. The pads curve easily in that direction, but not the other way. A hairdryer should be sufficient for the shrink wrap, although I used a scorchy hot air gun.

UnknownStuntman wrote:
And scotchlocks aren't really designed for current.
And I don't care what their marketing department say.

I'd only ever use one to trigger a relay.


How the fuck can they supply that for £2.16p with free postage from China and still make money Shocked


Postage is heavily subsidised by the Chinese government so they can pump shit out cheap as chips once you factor in slave labour as well.
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 14:52 - 28 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mission is a success Thumbs Up

As per "Stinkies" guide, I installed the hardwarmers with use of a relay.

Weirdly the relay i bought had a built in 30A fuse Shocked . I swapped that out for a 5A, an just because i had one, also fitted an inline jobbie too

The heaters work a treat, but I dont like them. It feels weirdly having warm sweaty palms an freezing cold finger tips
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 15:26 - 28 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
I'm using them under muffs

Bring it, Winter.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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