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YBR 125 gear issue: stuck in high gear?

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Ayup_Mi-Duck
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PostPosted: 09:31 - 25 Jan 2017    Post subject: YBR 125 gear issue: stuck in high gear? Reply with quote

Hi there

I hope you can help as I have just purchased my first bike.

here are the symptoms.

Clutch does not seem to go out far enough. If I unhook the cable from its retainer on the engine case, and roll along whilst hitting the start switch, it will run a if it is in gear. I cant crash into any other gears.

when the cable is where it should be, I can move the shifter in the downwards direction into a gear but it does not return to the middle position. it stays depressed.

The chain tension is v slack for some reason, the previous owner said he liked loose chain? :\

other than that, it starts and runs lovely! really lovely.

I was thinking, could it be the jobby on the other end of the shift levers shaft has broken so its not moving the selectors? or is it more than likely the clutch is buggered/ gear box is a brick?

Sad

Please help.

Dan
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:05 - 25 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd be having a look at the front sprocket first. See what's going on under there. Nobody "likes a loose chain".

Having a look at the clutch and clutch mechanism isn't a huge job and would be my next step. You either need to lean the bike way over to the left or drain the oil and remove the RHS engine cover. You will need a new gasket for it.

Probably best to change the oil once you've found the problem anyway given the apparent attitude to routine maintainance.

Your symptoms could fit with a few things from something very simple to somethign catastrophic. My guess (it's a total guess) is that the clutch basket retaining nut has come loose and the clutch is flapping about.

In B4 welded on front sprocket...
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Last edited by stinkwheel on 10:07 - 25 Jan 2017; edited 1 time in total
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 10:06 - 25 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It could be the gear lever return spring but i suspect it has the wrong oil or too much oil in it for the clutch not to release.
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Ayup_Mi-Duck
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PostPosted: 10:21 - 25 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I'd be having a look at the front sprocket first. See what's going on under there. Nobody "likes a loose chain".

Having a look at the clutch and clutch mechanism isn't a huge job and would be my next step. You either need to lean the bike way over to the left or drain the oil and remove the RHS engine cover. You will need a new gasket for it.

Probably best to change the oil once you've found the problem anyway given the apparent attitude to routine maintainance.

Your symptoms could fit with a few things from something very simple to somethign catastrophic. My guess (it's a total guess) is that the clutch basket retaining nut has come loose and the clutch is flapping about.

In B4 welded on front sprocket...


Right'o! that gives me a starting point. Im happy with those steps, im just hoping I don't have to take the engine to bits as the cogs have shat their pants... I do not have the skill to strip and rebuild... or the confidence.

A loose chain... having riden it, id be worried about it grabbing hold of something and pulling the whole bike up its own arsehole...

Also thank you for the tip about too much oil, I checked that last night. on the side stand, its spot on. When its stood upright, its too much... new to bikes.
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Ayup_Mi-Duck
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PostPosted: 10:30 - 25 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
It could be the gear lever return spring but i suspect it has the wrong oil or too much oil in it for the clutch not to release.


The oil doesn't smell right.. smells like chip fat Very Happy
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Fizzoid
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PostPosted: 10:44 - 25 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

MahoosiveDan wrote:
The oil doesn't smell right.. smells like chip fat Very Happy


Yeah, that can't be good!

Hopefully it's nothing too serious, but doesn't sound like it's been maintained too well
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 11:06 - 25 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

""""""""""Also thank you for the tip about too much oil, I checked that last night. on the side stand, its spot on. When its stood upright, its too much... new to bikes."""""""""""
The bike should be upright and on level ground to check the oil level.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 11:09 - 25 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

MahoosiveDan wrote:


Right'o! that gives me a starting point. Im happy with those steps, im just hoping I don't have to take the engine to bits as the cogs have shat their pants... I do not have the skill to strip and rebuild... or the confidence.


In fairness, if it's shat itself that badly, it would be quicker, easier and in all probability cheaper to drop a second hand engine in. I wouldn't be delving into the gearbox of a commuter 125 other than as an academic exercise or unless I was very sure which part had gone and had priced it and the gaskets required for the stripdown.

By the time you're in the gearbox, you already have the engine out of the frame.

Then part-out the old one on ebay and you could actually be quids-in.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Ayup_Mi-Duck
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PostPosted: 11:24 - 25 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:


By the time you're in the gearbox, you already have the engine out of the frame.

Then part-out the old one on ebay and you could actually be quids-in.


Hmm. Ill do that then. Ill get the clutch opene and looked at, swap the oil and look at the selector. if its not obvious, Ill get looking fo a replacement :\ 170 quid for the bike with 2 months mot on it... I was already expecting to spend a bit on it.
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Ayup_Mi-Duck
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PostPosted: 12:27 - 25 Jan 2017    Post subject: Checking oil Reply with quote

Erm, just one more thing *in Colombo voice*

It says in the service manual
"Ensure bike is on a level surface, place on a suiltable stand and make sure that the vehicle is upright."

Does that mean on the side stand or on the centre stand? im confused.

If its on the side stand, the oil level is perfect. if it means the centre stand, the reading says that the engine is swimming in oil.

Bloody hell, welcome to motorcycles Embarassed Wink
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 13:39 - 25 Jan 2017    Post subject: Re: Checking oil Reply with quote

MahoosiveDan wrote:
Erm, just one more thing *in Colombo voice*

It says in the service manual
"Ensure bike is on a level surface, place on a suiltable stand and make sure that the vehicle is upright."

Does that mean on the side stand or on the centre stand? im confused.

If its on the side stand, the oil level is perfect. if it means the centre stand, the reading says that the engine is swimming in oil.

Bloody hell, welcome to motorcycles Embarassed Wink


All oil levels should be done with the bike level. It isn't level on the side stand is it. You have too much oil in it now.

It's worded like that in case you have a paddock. Abba or similar stand as some bike don't come with a centre stand.
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Ayup_Mi-Duck
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PostPosted: 14:26 - 25 Jan 2017    Post subject: Re: Checking oil Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
MahoosiveDan wrote:
Erm, just one more thing *in Colombo voice*

It says in the service manual
"Ensure bike is on a level surface, place on a suiltable stand and make sure that the vehicle is upright."

Does that mean on the side stand or on the centre stand? im confused.

If its on the side stand, the oil level is perfect. if it means the centre stand, the reading says that the engine is swimming in oil.

Bloody hell, welcome to motorcycles Embarassed Wink


All oil levels should be done with the bike level. It isn't level on the side stand is it. You have too much oil in it now.

It's worded like that in case you have a paddock. Abba or similar stand as some bike don't come with a centre stand.


Thank you for the quick reply. It is greatly appreciated. As I learn, I will share in future.

Im off to drain my chip fat.

p.s. I didn't wang it full of oil, its how it came :\

Thumbs Up Clapping
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 17:57 - 25 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Too much oil will do this on a YBR. Mine came with a "sticky shift" in the same manner. changed the oil as a matter of course on a bike I don't know, and shift is not an issue. It may not be your only problem, but it'll only cost you 1L of oil to find out, before you start opening cases etc.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 25 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThatDippyTwat wrote:
Too much oil will do this on a YBR. Mine came with a "sticky shift" in the same manner. changed the oil as a matter of course on a bike I don't know, and shift is not an issue. It may not be your only problem, but it'll only cost you 1L of oil to find out, before you start opening cases etc.


I'm not saying it isn't the case but it's hard to think of a good mechanical explanation for why this would happen. I'd expect a motorcycle clutch and gearbox to function the same way either completely empty of oil (although it would start wearing very quickly) or totally immersed in oil.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 21:18 - 25 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
ThatDippyTwat wrote:
Too much oil will do this on a YBR. Mine came with a "sticky shift" in the same manner. changed the oil as a matter of course on a bike I don't know, and shift is not an issue. It may not be your only problem, but it'll only cost you 1L of oil to find out, before you start opening cases etc.


I'm not saying it isn't the case but it's hard to think of a good mechanical explanation for why this would happen. I'd expect a motorcycle clutch and gearbox to function the same way either completely empty of oil (although it would start wearing very quickly) or totally immersed in oil.


I can't tell you why, only that it is. I over-filled it last time (busy gassing), and it was a pig to change 1st-2nd, neutral almost every fucking time. Proper oil level? No issues, and no other change other than dropping about 100-200ml excess oil out. Same issues as when I initially had it, but not as severe, but the initial ffill must have been more like 1.5L. Your guess is as good as mine, I've not been inside this gearbox, so I can't comment with any authority.
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Ayup_Mi-Duck
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PostPosted: 10:18 - 27 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
In B4 welded on front sprocket...


Right so,

Tomorrow AM I will be popping the clutch side off. Ill be looking at the clutch (taking it to bits to see if it naffed, the selector rod end thngy on the opposite side of the selector control, the front sprocket and the dowel covered star shaped thngy that's on the end of the selector drum. Fingers crossed its just a twig that's in the way and simply removing it will sort it Smile

if its none of those thngs, Ill either get a replacement engine or just take it to bits on my kitchen table, realise ive no idea what im doing and forget it in the shed. Smile
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Ayup_Mi-Duck
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PostPosted: 12:22 - 29 Jan 2017    Post subject: Fixed! Reply with quote

Thank you for your help.

Turns out that the star shaped selector thing was loose and the selector rod (for some undiagnosed and still and a problem reason) pushes through slightly so that it doesn't touch the selector star jobbby :/

It was also full of the most grungy oil with the contents of the bottom of a. Pond at the. Bottom of it.

Strangely tho, one of the clutch plates was completely worn but the. Rest were not. Replaced that too.
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Ayup_Mi-Duck
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PostPosted: 12:24 - 29 Jan 2017    Post subject: Re: Fixed! Reply with quote

MahoosiveDan wrote:
Thank you for your help.

Turns out that the star shaped selector thing was loose and the selector rod (for some undiagnosed and still and a problem reason) pushes through slightly so that it doesn't touch the selector star jobbby :/

It was also full of the most grungy oil with the contents of the bottom of a. Pond at the. Bottom of it.

Strangely tho, one of the clutch plates was completely worn but the. Rest were not. Replaced that too.


Sorry, also the chain cover and. Sprocket cover were choaked with filth and oil. They weighed a ton! Taking a jet wash to it
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:10 - 29 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

The grunge in the oil was probably the remains of the clutch plate.

Make sure you clean the oil strainer.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Ayup_Mi-Duck
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PostPosted: 20:36 - 29 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
The grunge in the oil was probably the remains of the clutch plate.

Make sure you clean the oil strainer.


Did do chief. Thanks again for your advice. The Haynes manual doesn't mention how much of a git location the bolts and foot pegs are in Sad

Massive. Excitement to get on it now but off on my jollies on wed...
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Ayup_Mi-Duck
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PostPosted: 12:50 - 23 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, its happened again. should I drop some locktite into the hole before I tighten up the alen bolt? ffs I was just getting into riding it to and from work :\
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 13:00 - 23 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

You mean the splined selector shaft? It won't hurt putting locktite on the bolt round the clamp. However It shouldn't have come loose if you did it up tight. It will be worth checking it for wear.
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Ayup_Mi-Duck
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PostPosted: 13:17 - 23 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
You mean the splined selector shaft? It won't hurt putting locktite on the bolt round the clamp. However It shouldn't have come loose if you did it up tight. It will be worth checking it for wear.


The star shaped thing with sticks on it.
https://ebayapi-loc8apartltd.netdna-ssl.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/MhEAAOSwFV9X1x7g/$_1.JPG
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 13:23 - 23 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not seen anything like that before, I can't help.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 14:07 - 23 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/5452211/ybr125ed-2012-51d2-europe-black-metallic-x/shift-cam-fork


Looking at the diagram it has a dowel to keep the Star thing from spinning does yours have it?
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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