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What the hell is a bolt extractor?

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Arcane1729 This post is not being displayed because the poster is banned. Unhide this post / all posts.

Fisty
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PostPosted: 20:20 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drill the head off the bolt using a standard drill bit.

Remove the ignition switch then take the threaded part out using mole grips.
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Baggyman
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

a cunning way of inserting a bit of hardened metal into the middle of a snapped off bolt you are trying to remove so that you will not be able to drill it out afterwards

Never liked them or trusted them - for me, a last resort only and best in the hands of someone you are paying so they have to make it all good if/when it goes pear shaped.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 20:27 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the retaining bolts have "blind" or plain, domed heads, then just dremel a flat in it beg enough to take a chunky flathead. It's how I did mine after the scrotes tried to hotwire it.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:40 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Left handed drill bit, gotta get the bolts hot to soften the threadlock.

I have also cut them with a grinder when I lost my keys at work. 1mm disc in the gap cut the bolts and allowed me to release the steering lock. Fitted it back with packing washers.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

For ignition switches I've always just drilled the heads off the bolts. There's enough of a stub left once you lift the lock off to either simply unscrew with mole grips or file a couple of flats on and undo with a spanner
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Billy Balthorpe
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive had to do this twice, the first one was on my old FZR1000 pre EXUP back in 1999 when we went to the Pyrenees with 3 bikes in a van. By the time I realised id left my keys on top of the microwave at home we were somewhere near Montauban near the mountains. From what I remember I think we used Torx bits and just snapped off the little tit in the middle of the torx socket.
The second time was on a 2005 Fireblade, this time was a lot more difficult, from memory I used Cobalt drills and a good quality pair of grips. It still took me about 4 hours to get the ignition out without damaging the top yoke. A hell of a job!
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Billy Balthorpe
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PostPosted: 22:43 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also used a small bench mounted vice.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 22:50 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mole grips (aka locking pliers):

https://billstoolstore.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/228x228/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/e/c/eclipsee7r.jpg
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Freddyfruitba...
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spookily enough, I was offered one of these earlier this week on my Groupon email:
https://www.groupon.co.uk/deals/damaged-screw-extractor-set-1
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 23:54 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

In b4 Mr Autism mental block grinds halfway through a fork leg.
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Jim Mc
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PostPosted: 06:10 - 22 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

They do work, you need to drill out as much of the original bolt first so you can fit the largest extractor in without damaging the original threads.

I've had it remove bolts that would otherwise not budge but it could turn into a nightmare if the extractor snaps or you damage the threads with the drill.
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pompousporcup...
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PostPosted: 07:13 - 22 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

surely, i may be wrong, but, if you drill out the middle of a seized bolt and then proceed to effectively wedge the 'extractor' down the middle, all it is doing is pushing the thread of the seized bolt against the threaded hole it sits in, thereby making it even more difficult to release?
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skatefreak
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PostPosted: 08:54 - 22 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had to switch the ignition on my NSR a few years back.
Ground the head off the bolt and shaft came out with fingers alone!
Once the tension was released from the threads the remainder of the bolt was loose as anything Smile

Not everything turns into a sh*tfest Laughing!
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 09:17 - 22 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

sharpe2002 wrote:
surely, i may be wrong, but, if you drill out the middle of a seized bolt and then proceed to effectively wedge the 'extractor' down the middle, all it is doing is pushing the thread of the seized bolt against the threaded hole it sits in, thereby making it even more difficult to release?


In fairness, if you've managed to drill straight down the middle of a bolt, you're as well to keep going with sequentially larger drills until you can either break the remnants of the bolt into the middle or hit the tapping size and chase the threads out.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 10:58 - 22 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://img.pandawhale.com/post-41794-I-got-a-bad-feeling-about-this-qdmB.gif
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 11:09 - 22 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bolt extractors are something that you'd find in a Workshop, which is where I hope you'll - eventually - learn to post these threads.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 11:21 - 22 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have my every best wish of success. Thumbs Up
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arry
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PostPosted: 11:25 - 22 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arcane1729 wrote:
Rogerborg wrote:
Bolt extractors are something that you'd find in a Workshop, which is where I hope you'll - eventually - learn to post these threads.


Hopefully a moderator will move this thread to workshop soon


That will knock the crap out of your karma, so you'd best hope not Wink.

Seriously though fella, this is one for a decent shop to sort out. It'll be not a lot of labour and the couple of hundred quid it'll set you back will pail into insignificance in the long run. Just take it somewhere that knows what they're doing.
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arry
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PostPosted: 12:02 - 22 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

As above then, wish you every success.
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