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karoshi
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Joined: 28 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 08 Jun 2017    Post subject: Voltmeter options Reply with quote

Looking for a voltmeter, needs to be 3-wire so I can have it only on with the ignition.. suitable for handlebar mounting onto a bike with no fairings.

I'm struggling to find anything that would be small enough (and waterproof enough) to stick on either a bar mount, or be glued to the upper yoke.

Front running option is this one at the moment but it's a month away in China.

Anyone know of anything I could get more local? Smile
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 16:23 - 08 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

why fit a permanent Volt meter .. an annual check is all that is required .. you are far more likely to have problems wit the battery than the generator and that wont take long to not start the bike..
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Tracer1234
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PostPosted: 16:25 - 08 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stupid, naive question, what would be the purpose of this?

Not a dig, a genuine curiosity about what would be the purpose.

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karoshi
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Joined: 28 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 08 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Copycat73 wrote:
why fit a permanent Volt meter .. an annual check is all that is required .. you are far more likely to have problems wit the battery than the generator and that wont take long to not start the bike..


Fear basically.

Just had the bike in pieces replacing a wonked Stator that killed a painfully expensive battery because I didn't notice that it wasn't charging for a week (the bike I have runs the coil from the Stator directly so it took a week of engine starts before it died.

I want to have a visible voltage readout that runs whilst ignition is on so I can see what the battery is doing in real time Smile
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 08 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

frankly I would buy a multi meter.. run a live from the battery and connect said multi meter every time I used it . then back in my pocket.. .. volt meters as you describe will break in this environment as they aren't designed for it ... and yes been there done that..

PS.. the ZZR14 has one fitted as standard ... its never been used...other than to see if it works..

PPS.. I connect mine to the conditioner lead when I want to check voltage.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 16:56 - 08 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I fitted an LED battery/charge monitor (voltmeter) from AO Services or Sparkbright (I forget which) after fixing a long-standing charging and stalling problem. I wired it into the sidelight on the left so it came on with the ignition key. It stopped the sidelight until I reversed the wires, and there was a voltage drop that far from the battery but it worked. After a short while though I realised I was obsessed with checking it, and it wasn't in direct view (in the left hand fairing top piece, see picture) so I took it off.
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 17:10 - 08 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

i use one of these cheap ones from ebay wired to a push button switch (can see it at the bottom)

https://i.imgur.com/B32NxiH.jpg
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Radiotwo
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Joined: 09 Sep 2016
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PostPosted: 17:49 - 08 Jun 2017    Post subject: Re: Voltmeter options Reply with quote

karoshi wrote:
Looking for a voltmeter, needs to be 3-wire so I can have it only on with the ignition.. suitable for handlebar mounting onto a bike with no fairings.

I'm struggling to find anything that would be small enough (and waterproof enough) to stick on either a bar mount, or be glued to the upper yoke.

Front running option is this one at the moment but it's a month away in China.

Anyone know of anything I could get more local? Smile


I see you say you need a three wire version, Why ? you only need two (+&-)
but if you want a on going check of the system you would be better with a ammeter, which would show a discharge, charge(and how much) and when everything is ok it will just show nothing, and also will show if there is a short etc.
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 21:35 - 08 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tracer1234 wrote:
Stupid, naive question, what would be the purpose of this?

Not a dig, a genuine curiosity about what would be the purpose.

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Just to monitor the voltage of the charging circuit.


If / When a reg/rec blows, you get under or (worse) over voltage of the battery. I've had both.
One results in an embarrassing need to bump start. The other results in blown walls of your battery and melted connector blocks. Or if worse, kaboom and fire.

Mostly its only an issue with older shunt type reg/recs. MOSFET units don't suffer any where near as much.

Keeping an eye on your voltage, you can pre-empt damage / breakdown.
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WD Forte
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Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 21:54 - 08 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

A voltmeter is a bloody useful thing to have just like a temp gauge.
I make my own and at a glance can see if the charging circuit is functioning properly.
You only need 2 wires for supply and ground
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stinkwheel
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 23:20 - 08 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a cheap shit 2-wire one on my VFR because ti suffers intermittant charging issues (which I have now narrowed down to heat sinking problems and fixed).

I just attached it to a switched live. Only comes on with the ignition. The absolute voltage is unimportant. It's changes you need to watch for. Mine reads 13.8v consistantly while running with the lights on. Any lower and it means I left the heated grips on or something is wrong.

As said, an analogue ammeter is better than a voltmeter for monitoring battery charging. The enfield has one, and you know for sure if it is charging or discharging.

I just used one of these (from this seller, different LED colour). Fitted it into the removable fuse cover and potted over the back of it with epoxy resin (araldite) to keep it waterproof. I attached it with flying wires and spade terminals which alows me to unbolt it and use it to fix other peoples bikes while out on runs. It's been more useful for other peoples bikes than my own.

Bottom right:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/drumbrake/CIMG1686_zps2e9b0a95.jpg
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karoshi
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Joined: 28 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: 09:44 - 09 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the responses Smile

To answer some of the questions I was looking for a 3 wire meter because I though I'd need to monitor ( + / - ) directly across the battery to see the charging output but didn't want it on all the time. Looking at the three wire type led me to believe that the 3rd wire (reference +ve?) would run of an ignition switched live feed and make the meter only run when ignition was on?

Reason for wanting it is after spending close on £200 to replace a battery & the stator wheel I really want to be able to see that the charging system is working when the bike is running.

stinkwheel wrote:
I just attached it to a switched live. Only comes on with the ignition. The absolute voltage is unimportant. It's changes you need to watch for. Mine reads 13.8v consistantly while running with the lights on. Any lower and it means I left the heated grips on or something is wrong.


Stinkwheel, would a two wire meter just hooked up to the ignition switched live give me the 14v+ readout when it's charging still? I'd expected that to read out a regulated 12v feed?
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stinkwheel
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 10:39 - 09 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

karoshi wrote:


Stinkwheel, would a two wire meter just hooked up to the ignition switched live give me the 14v+ readout when it's charging still? I'd expected that to read out a regulated 12v feed?


It should. The only thing between that and the battery is the ignition switch and main fuse holder so electrically speaking, you're effectively connecting it to the battery positive when you turn the ignition on.

You shouldn't really actually have as low as 12v anywhere in the loom when the engine is running, it should be higher. The regulator only kicks in when it hits 14-15v

My voltmeter is attached to the output from the relay I fitted for my heated grips.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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G
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Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 11:24 - 09 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you wanted that configuration, could easily switch it with a relay and connect the relay to another circuit.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 12:29 - 09 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just connect mine to a live feed so it comes on when the bike is switched on.
I routinely test and check it with a meter and any voltage drop
from the battery to the point I patch in to is insignificant.

I made a simple weather proof gauge set for the old thing using a car temp gauge that is very accurate compared to the original one.
An expanded scale meter with 7 leds showing from about 11.5V to 17V with the sweet spot in the middle around 14.2V is all i need.
This is enough to show trends and if the voltage is going out of bounds
the bottom row has
2 yellow 3 green 2 red.leds
A glance tells me if all is well
yellow or red is cause for concern, centre green is optimal
https://imgur.com/nxFzTKy.jpg
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:35 - 09 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are also LED charge indicators.

Simple LED you mount of the dash. Green for good, goes yellow then red as you fail to charge. Flashes red and green if overcharging.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5mm-LED-12v-Voltmeter-Battery-level-Charge-monitor-indicator-lamp-gauge-meter-K-/192113209005?hash=item2cbad6eead:g:SxsAAOSwPhdVPWf1
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Howling TerrorOutOfOffice
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PostPosted: 16:13 - 09 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's mine.
https://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m174/howlingterror_2006/DSCF0695.jpg

Word to the wise. Once fitted cover the underneath of the LED unit with a big dollop of silicone to keep the water out.
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 17:32 - 09 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howling Terror wrote:


Word to the wise. Once fitted cover the underneath of the LED unit with a big dollop of silicone to keep the water out.


I have the same one, a Sparkbright. Colour code indication for less distraction, I don't want to be looking at numerical readouts when I should be looking at the road. If it starts flashing in the corner of my eye I know something is amiss (saved me from a sticky situation when my alternator blew)

Mine goes wibbly if water gets under it but it dries out soon enough. Now that you've reminded me though I may go out and spooge some plumber's jizz on it later.
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stinkwheel
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 09 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

When silicone cures, it releases acaetic acid (vinegar) which is corrosive. I wouldn't be putting it on electrical componants.

Use epoxy.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Howling TerrorOutOfOffice
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PostPosted: 20:55 - 09 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for the info.

I put it in 6/7 years ago so I'm not rushing out to redo it in epoxy.
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