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| t121anf |
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t121anf
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| Pjay |
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Pjay
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| MCN |
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MCN
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 Posted: 10:45 - 27 Mar 2018  Post subject: |
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Yuasa 2013
Died 2018
Was flagging end of 2017 though.
It was on the Ctek life-support.
I pulled the plug on it Jan 2018. 
But it's still kicking around to run my air pump for tyres. 
The auld Bastirt.
Padgetts-Online (Ebay.uk)
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN. |
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| t121anf |
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t121anf
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| MCN |
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MCN
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| Pigeon |
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Pigeon
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| Beehive Bedlam |
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Beehive Bedlam
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| Qyburn |
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Qyburn
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| Courier265 |
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Courier265
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| ThatDippyTwat |
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ThatDippyTwat
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Posted: 07:09 - 28 Mar 2018  Post subject: |
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| Stallion. wrote: | | Pigeon wrote: | Yuasa 2013 - Not died yet, but have bought a Motobatt to replace it as its been through 5 winters, so I've had a good innings. |
Waste of money.
My Fazer is still on the original which is 17 years old and still going strong. |
More bullshit than a beef farm. Let me educate you Bodyform...
A single Pb cell, of which there are 6 to go south in your battery as they are around a nominal 2v each, will lose capacity over time after 5, never mind 17, years of charge/Discharge cycles. Multiply that by 6 and the current generated after 5 (17!) years is significantly down on new. Active material depletion, or plate/grid breakdown, is why they last about 5 years when starting vehicles, not more than triple that you fucking tool. The reason Optimates help so much is they can trickle charge them, or provide a "saturated" charge lasting, from memory, about 14-18 hours. It's the best way to charge a battery. What you get from a vehicle with a Alternator or Stator/Reg-rec is pretty much what equates to a violent stuffing. It charges at a fairly high current to ensure that it's charged the next time you start it up, even after a short journey. This increases the level of breakdown on the plates and grids, and is why it dies.
Unless your fazer shipped with a fucking long extension cord, or a stipulation to ride for 14-18 hours continuously, someone has replaced the battery in your shitty fazer, but likely with OEM, hence confusing your small amount of little grey cells.
If you google for something like "Pb charge/discharge life cycle" you can science yourself on many whitepapers that are out there.
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'98 VFR800 (touring) - '12 VFR800 Crosrunner (Commuting) - '01 KDX220 (Big Green Antisocial Machine) |
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| techathy |
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techathy
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| ThatDippyTwat |
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ThatDippyTwat
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| Posted: 11:09 - 28 Mar 2018 Post subject: |
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| techathy wrote: | That all said I did have a car that had a 9 year old battery which didn't seem to have any issues with voltage & current supply. However, the battery was kept in the boot of the car & also I believe was he correct size for cars with the cold weather pre-heat system, which mine didn't have. |
It may have been over-specified, then you lose capacity as normal, but still retain enough to start/run the car without issues. There's generally no space on a bike to put a much bigger battery in.
However - All Pb batteries lose capacity. You tend to not get sulfation as much these day's, as charging systems are far better, but the consequence of higher charge rates is depletion of materials. It may also, but probably not, have been a Flooded lead acid battery rather than a Sealed, as they deal with overcharge better. Stationary batteries (lead, but in power supplies etc) are another beast altogether.
If Bodyform has made the original fazer battery last 17 years, then a number of chemists and companies will give him lots of money to reveal his secrets, and he can finally make his imaginary R6 a reality.
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| Polarbear |
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Polarbear
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| Posted: 15:28 - 28 Mar 2018 Post subject: |
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^^^^ True ^^^^
Personally I'd prefer batteries that you could top up rather than sealed ones. You have a half chance of saving them if they go completely flat.
Anyway, anyone used these for bike batteries? I use them for boat batteries and they are just about the best/cheapest on the net.
https://www.tayna.co.uk/motorcycle-batteries/
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| ThatDippyTwat |
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ThatDippyTwat
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| Posted: 16:00 - 28 Mar 2018 Post subject: |
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Yup, decent prices and decent selection. Unless it's got a lot of gizmo's, constant drain alarms etc on it, I find Varta to be decent bang for buck. You put the Acid in yourself and bung it up, so you should, in theory, be able to top it up with sulphuric acid.
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| grr666 |
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grr666
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| Posted: 16:20 - 28 Mar 2018 Post subject: |
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I don't think Tayna are that competitive on bike batteries, but I have used them numerous times for cars and vans
and their service has been superb, plus they are amazing at packaging up batteries to survive transportation to customer.
Would recommend, but would probably still shop around if it was a bike battery I was after.
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ThatDippyTwat
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| Copycat73 |
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Copycat73
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 8 years, 161 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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