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Trick to bleeding 6 piston Tokico calipers after rebuild?

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WULFSTAN
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PostPosted: 09:17 - 06 Feb 2013    Post subject: Trick to bleeding 6 piston Tokico calipers after rebuild? Reply with quote

I can't seem to bleed all the air out of the system after ive cleaned the pistons. It's either that, or brake feel is very soft The lever doesn't go all the way back to the bar, but it still seems like it's not as firm as it should be they work but feel spongy btw 6 piston Tokico calipers are a fucker thanks.
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 09:28 - 06 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

First of all use something to suck the fluid through the bleed-nipple (a syringe if you don't have a vacuum-gun).

Then try pumping the lever with the master-cylinder closed (lid on and done up). I know it shouldn't make any difference but it has done for me on more than one model of bike.

Fluid in MC.
Seal MC.
Pump lever a few times, hold lever in, crack nipple and quickly close again.
Check fluid-level in MC.
Seal MC.

Repeat above.
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WULFSTAN
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PostPosted: 10:49 - 06 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hetzer wrote:
First of all use something to suck the fluid through the bleed-nipple (a syringe if you don't have a vacuum-gun).

Then try pumping the lever with the master-cylinder closed (lid on and done up). I know it shouldn't make any difference but it has done for me on more than one model of bike.

Fluid in MC.
Seal MC.
Pump lever a few times, hold lever in, crack nipple and quickly close again.
Check fluid-level in MC.
Seal MC.

Repeat above.
Just done again leaver firms up but still spongy. At first air did come out then solid fluid all the way which leads me to think am drawing in air somewhere. Bearing in mind Ive cleaned the pistons re using the old seals which looked ok could this be the problem. On a side note when you take the banjo off the MC should fluid be pissing put when you pull the break as mine anit thanks.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 11:10 - 06 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

pump the lever a few times, pull the lever in and crack the banjo bolt on the master cylinder. Sometimes a naughty air bubble hides in there.
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WULFSTAN
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PostPosted: 11:17 - 06 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Temeluchus wrote:
pump the lever a few times, pull the lever in and crack the banjo bolt on the master cylinder. Sometimes a naughty air bubble hides in there.
When i have the reservoir lid of and i pump the break once you let go the fluid spurts back out the reservoir Confused any ideas trapped air in pipes?
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 11:24 - 06 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the cap off just use little movements of the lever, pulling it right on and releasing is pumping the fluid back in spurts. If you've gone that far a better bet is to disconnect the calipers and let them hang straight down for an hour or two to let air rise then little movements of the lever to shift it before refitting and normal bleeding at the nipple.
Ideally with the 6 potters it's easier to reverse fill with a syringe from the nipple which pushes most of the air up and out then bleed as normal to finish it off, had no problem when I did it that way when replacing the lines on my Bandit 6 pots.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 11:47 - 06 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

WULFSTAN wrote:
any ideas trapped air in pipes?


Yes its air.

Pull the lever in, keep it held in. With that still held, undo the master cylinder banjo a little and tighten it up again quickly (in effect like the bleed nipples on the calipers). You will probably hear a load of air escaping under pressure.
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WULFSTAN
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PostPosted: 11:59 - 06 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Temeluchus wrote:
WULFSTAN wrote:
any ideas trapped air in pipes?


Yes its air.

Pull the lever in, keep it held in. With that still held, undo the master cylinder banjo a little and tighten it up again quickly (in effect like the bleed nipples on the calipers). You will probably hear a load of air escaping under pressure.
no air just fluid came out.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 13:16 - 06 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

How are your lines set up? Are you using a splitter on them, or a two-line race setup? I've found that splitters seem to like hoarding air bubbles, and not letting them go until tapped gently.
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WULFSTAN
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PostPosted: 13:43 - 06 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

nowhere.elysium wrote:
How are your lines set up? Are you using a splitter on them, or a two-line race setup? I've found that splitters seem to like hoarding air bubbles, and not letting them go until tapped gently.
Yer its a splitter will give tapping it a go see if any air comes up.
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Timmeh
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 06 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

My RVF's brakes refused to work properly until I bought a brake-end banjo with a bleed nipple on.

Got some 6mm OD silicone hose, connected two lines from the brake nipples into a pot of DOT4, then got a 100ml syringe and sucked it up through the brake end until there were no bubbles. Tightened everything off and they worked first time.

And no mess either.

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J4mes
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 09 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

old thread bumperoony Very Happy

I've put new callipers, twin lines and reservoir on my ZX6R and I'm having a fucking nightmare bleeding them.

I've spent that last 3 hours and a litre of fluid:

trying to bleed with a gunson eezibleed. no. even using an original reservoir lid it won't seal.

reverse bleeding. no. filled the callipers and lines from the bleed nipple with syringe but I've still absolutely zero pressure and when I return to conventional bleeding there is still loads of bubbles.

cracked off the banjos at top. no. shit loads of air came out but it literally just kept coming. pumped 2 reservoirs full through and it never stopped bubbling.

I've no obvious leaks, banjos and nipples all tight.

I'm well and truly fucking stuck! And I've run out of fluid.

ideas? other than burn it?!

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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:07 - 09 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tie the lever down. Go to bed. Try again in the morning.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 19:33 - 09 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a hand vacuum brake bleed kit. (Although the O-ring didn't last long. Anyone know where I can get a replacement?) Apply a vacuum at the bleed nipple, squeeze the lever and open the bleed nipple but close it again before you stop squeezing the lever, and well before the vacuum is spent. Do this several times in succession. You're drawing air pockets downwards and not letting them slide back up. I also stuck a pipette (from work, I don't know where you'd get one otherwise, maybe a syringe?) into the master cylinder outlet to draw air bubbles out and push fluid in.

Strange but I've got no problem with Tokico 6-pots. They're naturally spongy and have a lot of lever travel before they bite but you get used to squeezing hard and they work well in my opinion. My R1's gold spots put them to shame in terms of sharpness but never mind.
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 20:05 - 09 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

The best and most expensive answer is to chuck them in the bin where they belong and get a set of Nissins.

I managed to bleed the brakes on my ZZR by keeping the bleed nipple immersed in brake fluid (through a highly questionable method) and just kept topping up the master cylinder until all the air was gone.

First time I tried this though I ended up with what seemed to be fully bled brakes, for about ten minutes or until you pulled hard on the lever. Turned out I’d caught one of the cylinder seals and twisted it when I stripped the brakes so it was passing slightly.
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Kris
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 09 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

J4mes wrote:

I've put new callipers, twin lines and reservoir on my ZX6R and I'm having a fucking nightmare bleeding them



I have literally just sorted this issue on my GSXR.

I fitted new HEL lines (race setup) onto freshly rebuilt calipers. Filled the reservoir, connected the 'Motrax Lil Bleeder' kit and...

Nothing. Nada. No lever pressure at all and the tubing just fills with air.

So I took it to my friendly garage who just used a simple length of tubing, no valve at all. I kept the reservoir filled up, and pumped the lever 5 times. Then he tightened the bleed nipple and I pumped 5 times then held lever in. Then he released nipple, then retightened and we repeated the process about 5 times for each caliper. We did the farthest caliper first, then the closest, then the farthest again.

Oh and I just remembered I put some PTFE tape round the threads on the bleed nipples - as I noticed air was escaping past the thread even when closed. Seems to have done the trick!

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Last edited by Kris on 07:18 - 10 May 2018; edited 1 time in total
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Islander
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PostPosted: 22:40 - 09 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kris wrote:

So I took it to my friendly garage who just used a simple length of tubing, no valve at all. I kept the reservoir filled up, and pumped the lever 5 times. Then he tightened the bleed nipple and I pumped 5 times then held lever in. Then he released nipple, then retightened and we repeated the process about 5 times for each caliper. We did the farthest caliper first, then the closest, then the farthest again.


This is the method I always use - it's never failed me. The only difference is that I don't alternate the calipers - I start at the one furthest from the master cylinder, bleed that then move to the nearest. I pump the lever slowly until I feel pressure build before I crack the bleed nipple and then quickly retighten. I also make sure the open end of the tube sits in brake fluid to prevent air from being drawn up. Thumbs Up
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MCN
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PostPosted: 00:16 - 10 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can, remove the master cyl. and try to angle it's dangle with the bleeder open to get every tiny bit of air out.
If there is a bubble in there it will limit how much push there is to force fluid down the brake line.

And you will not get an ezibleed cap to fit a bike reservoir.
They are made for car enthusiastists.

You nee to buy a cap for your bike then drill it and fit the ezibleed adaptor in it.

If ye canny bleed using an ezibleed you are doing something wrong/fcukin stupid. Smile
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 05:35 - 10 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

6 pot Tokicos are gash, block the pistons apart on the bench and watch them bend apart when you pull the lever. Problems with them are always at the caliper. Clamp the lines right above the caliper (yes you can safely clamp braided lines with a proper line clamp) and the lever will go solid.
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Kris
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PostPosted: 07:19 - 10 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
And you will not get an ezibleed cap to fit a bike reservoir.
They are made for car enthusiastists.

You nee to buy a cap for your bike then drill it and fit the ezibleed adaptor in it.

If ye canny bleed using an ezibleed you are doing something wrong/fcukin stupid. Smile


Oops mine was a Motrax 'Lil Bleeder kit. Not an Eezibleed.

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Kris
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PostPosted: 08:23 - 10 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
6 pot Tokicos are gash, block the pistons apart on the bench and watch them bend apart when you pull the lever. Problems with them are always at the caliper. Clamp the lines right above the caliper (yes you can safely clamp braided lines with a proper line clamp) and the lever will go solid.


This must be what happens to cause the 'sponginess' when pulling the lever hard. I can still lock the front at speed, and the braking force is there - but the lever does have a lot more travel than bikes with good brake setups.. Thinking

The garage did say there's a local guy that sells adapter kits to make Yamaha monoblocs fit.. Razz
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J4mes
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PostPosted: 11:09 - 10 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the responses, my old man is coming down at the weekend to give me a hand with various methods mentioned. Trying to juggle a wife who's had a C-section, an 11day old, a 4 year old and this is leaving my patience wearing a tad thin! Laughing

I do wish I'd bought the nissens instead of having these refurbed but I'll know for next time!

MCN - I have drilled a spare cap, but it doesn't seal enough to cope with the 10-20psi I tried. while it forced fluid through, an awful lot just gobbed out the cap. I did it up so tight the first time I tore the reservoir off its mounts and had to buy a new one Embarassed

Could try some ptfe on the threads I guess!

My local accessory shop winced when I said the lines were for Tokico callipers and said they were a total cunt to bleed Laughing
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MCN
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PostPosted: 14:28 - 10 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuck the brakes.
Sort out your Mrs. And the baby. 👍

You'll have plenty of time to sort the brakes in about 23 yrs time. 😂

Congratulations and all the best you and your family too.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 14:44 - 10 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kris wrote:
Oh and I just remembered I put some PTFE tape round the threads on the bleed nipples - as I noticed air was escaping past the thread even when closed. Seems to have done the trick!

Interesting idea. Very interesting idea. Mr. Green
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 18:15 - 10 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kris wrote:
but the lever does have a lot more travel than bikes with good brake setups.. Thinking


I read on a Gixxer specific forum the silly amount of lever travel is due to the stock M/C on the K1/K2 being the wrong size for the 6 pot calipers.

I'm inclined to believe it as I have a Discacciati radial M/C and my lever travel when bled properly is short. The 6 pots are still shite, though nowhere near as bad as the Tokico 4 pots on my ZZR.
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