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chris-red
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PostPosted: 20:48 - 24 Aug 2018    Post subject: Recommend a blow torch Reply with quote

I need a blow torch, any recommendations?

Don't mind paying more for something quality, but would rather not spend loads. I have an exhaust stud nightmare to tackle in a week or so. Crying or Very sad
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grr666
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 24 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GoSystem-QP8937H-Quick-Pro-Auto-Swirl-Gas-Blow-Torch/132287717481?epid=1923154890&hash=item1eccf66069:g:otUAAOSwPCVX97Jl

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yellow-MAPP-MAP-Pro-Gas-Cylinder-453g-Disposable-Bottle/253626944229?hash=item3b0d580ae5:g:-r8AAOSwXrBa~Ef2

Whilst bought and used many times for soldering pipe fittings, I also use mine for all manner of tasks including fast log
burner, barbeque and bonfire lighting and when I'm cooking it's a very handy tool. Complete one click, one handed operation
is a godsend. Mapp gas makes a very hot, focused flame. 2000c give or take. Thumbs Up 1x453g can of gas will last AGES!!
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 21:17 - 24 Aug 2018    Post subject: Re: Recommend a blow torch Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
I need a blow torch, any recommendations?

Don't mind paying more for something quality, but would rather not spend loads. I have an exhaust stud nightmare to tackle in a week or so. Crying or Very sad


Hm, how much is "loads"?

I've got a "Turbo Lite TL-44", which screws into gas cannisters, and has piezo-electric ignition. It's very good. Works updide-down. Hot.

The nearest-looking things I can easily find is:

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p36574
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/huc/view.html?ie=UTF8&newItems=C97ae8b45-72d2-4813-a6a7-5803865ccf3f%2C1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009OCBT5U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1

I might be tempted to take a punt on:

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p71324

'cos it's got 3 interchangeable nozzles.

You can sort out your house plumbing, too.
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G
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PostPosted: 21:54 - 24 Aug 2018    Post subject: Re: Recommend a blow torch Reply with quote

As abovel; any 'MAPP'* torch with a swirl head and auto piezo ignition should do the job nicely, presuming your budget goes to that.

* They no longer are actuall MAPP I don't thinl, but don't get a choice.

Though, this thread got me looking at compact Oxy-MAPP setupts. Because... betterer?
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 24 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MAPP is more expensive but burns hotter than propane. You can get torch heads on a hose for heating stuff in confined spaces...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mapp-Gas-Self-Ignition-Plumbing-Turbo-Torch-With-Hose-Propane-Welding-Brazing/152631192663?hash=item2389872c57

Do you have any welding equipment? I've used this method with mucho successo...

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1bZyw3OSIgk

If not I'd advise borrowing a mig welder, gassless is fine for stud removal.
I'd never do it any other way again on an aluminium head.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 22:29 - 24 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a Rothenburger super fire brazing torch piezo ignition, works upside down or any position. I use the standard propane cylinders for normal heating/soldering type stuff and the MAP Pro cylinders if I want to braze.

Not particularly cheap but it's very good. Thumbs Up
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bacon
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PostPosted: 23:47 - 24 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Map gas and a piezo blow torch will do the job. Think I paid £20 to £25 for my piezo from memory... Amazon
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virus
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PostPosted: 09:52 - 25 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

another vote for a rothenburger running mapp gas here. managed to do some heavy pipe soldering work with one of those.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 10:28 - 25 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers all, the Rothenburger one is a bit much, it's twice as much as the go system and I don't think I'll use it that much. MAPP sounds good, I've got plus gas and stud extractors on order too.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 10:52 - 26 Aug 2018    Post subject: Re: Recommend a blow torch Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
I need a blow torch, any recommendations?

Don't mind paying more for something quality, but would rather not spend loads. I have an exhaust stud nightmare to tackle in a week or so. Crying or Very sad


Heating the studs directly is not the way to get them out. When heated they will expand and become tighter in the head. Run the engine hot, the head will expand and then they will come out easy.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 12:48 - 26 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

^The aluminium head 'sucks' any heat away from the steel studs, and also differentially expands more.

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-expansion-metals-d_859.html

Localised heat travels fast, doesn't matter on the method, it's going to move from head to stud or vise-versa no matter what. By using a torch he'll be able to repeatedly heat and cool which should 'crack' off any corrision bonding.

I'm hoping op has already been soaking them daily in penetrating oil, but I'm expecting some of them to snap no matter what.

Then expect there'll be a thread on what welder to buy Laughing
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G
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PostPosted: 13:40 - 26 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the general stuff - if you're heating the area, consider a freezer spray applied just to the fastener.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 14:04 - 26 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

G wrote:
On the general stuff - if you're heating the area, consider a freezer spray applied just to the fastener.


There's a danger of quench hardening, and embrittling the stud. Then it snaps and can't be easily drilled.

I've got pages of welder recommendations for op ready to go!
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 16:58 - 26 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Freezer spray is safe, it will not cause any kind of embrittlement as it will not get that cold, and will not be hot enough to begin with. It works well in combination with a hot engine.

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
^The aluminium head 'sucks' any heat away from the steel studs, and also differentially expands more.

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-expansion-metals-d_859.html

Localised heat travels fast, doesn't matter on the method, it's going to move from head to stud or vise-versa no matter what. By using a torch he'll be able to repeatedly heat and cool which should 'crack' off any corrision bonding.

I'm hoping op has already been soaking them daily in penetrating oil, but I'm expecting some of them to snap no matter what.

Then expect there'll be a thread on what welder to buy Laughing


It does matter. A propane/mapp torch will not be able to heat up the massive thermal mass of the water cooled cylinder head, the only way to get it hot, and create maximum clearance in the threads, is to run the engine. When there is clearance, the thread will turn. Rust has a lower density than steel, reducing that clearance. If the engine is runnable, it should always be attempted hot.

Penetrating oil. Apply after last use of vehicle, 12-24 hours before the attempt. Directly before the attempt, get the engine as hot as possible, reapply penetrating oil while engine is running. wait few minutes before turning off and attempting removal while hot.
Using oil on a hot bolt while it is in use every day can make it brittle.

The stud gets thermal cycled every day you run the engine. Heating it directly will not crack anything off. It will not increase the space available, it will not remove the rust from the thread. When it cools down it will remain a tight interference fit.

If the stud will not remove with the hot engine, Id prefer to use alum to disolve it. It will take a few days and require some continuous heat.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 00:06 - 27 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Freezer spray is safe, it will not cause any kind of embrittlement as it will not get that cold, and will not be hot enough to begin with. It works well in combination with a hot engine.


Freeze spray alone is ok, but what normally happens when you quickly cool red hot steel?
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 10:20 - 27 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

As there is little chance of it being red hot what normally happens is absolutely nothing.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 12:08 - 27 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have one of these but then I have propane bottles from my boats to power it.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/CLARKE-TORCH-NOZZLE-17mm-PC109/dp/B00KKHO680/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1535367984&sr=8-21&keywords=propane+blow+torch
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 11:09 - 28 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought a Go System and MAPP can,

I have ordered some of these too as they have good reviews

https://www.amazon.co.uk/4PC-STUD-EXTRACTOR-DRIVE-CASE/dp/B004LU5PNM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1535449588&sr=8-5&keywords=stud+extractorhttps://www.amazon.co.uk/4PC-STUD-EXTRACTOR-DRIVE-CASE/dp/B004LU5PNM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1535449588&sr=8-5&keywords=stud+extractor

I have plus gas which I will be applying every night this week.

The TDM developed a leak from an exhaust gasket. As I had to ride to Silverstone to sit in the cold and wet for 6 hours Sunday, Saturday I thought it a bright idea to nip the nuts up a bit to temp fix/improve the leak. The 3rd stud snapped with pretty much no force from me. It snapped flush with the collar so I have a bit to play with.

For those of you that have done this job before (No internet mechanics please) What is the best order to do things?

I was thinking about trying with the extractors before heat? I feel like heat will boil away and negate the plus gas. The obviously concern is that is will snap closer to the head and cause more issues.

What do you think?
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 11:32 - 28 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Patience is the key.

I haven't used that type of extractor but on On M6 studs I have found mole-grips can do the job.

Wire brush any fur and crap from the base of the stud then you can try a heating plus-gas cycle for a few days after that try rocking the stud back and forth, if it gives a little more plus gas and patience.

Bon chance.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 11:44 - 28 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those things are just for gripping the stud to turn it, as A100man says, other things can be used.

Me, I'd go for heat. Warm the engine up, then use your gas torch to heat the metal around, if you can get it to the "spit just bounces off" stage OK, then try to turn the stud. Wiggle wiggle.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 12:34 - 28 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I figure those will be Better as they grip more of the stud, I have mole grips and spring wrenches anyway to try. I REALLY don't want to drill/helicoil it.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 16:48 - 28 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

After you've snapped all the studs off flush, then tried to drill the hardened studs, slipped the drill sideways into the ally head (with your newly purchased right angle chuck), and snapped a screw extractor, bought alum and tried rigging a hot dam, which won't work, just mig weld blobs on to the stud and use mole grips to back it out in 15 minutes (as in the vid link above) , then ponder why you ever bothered trying all that other shit! The heat from the mig and the blob on the end does it in no time, honestly.

This is from someone who got 4 of the bastards out last year, in situ. One came out by screwing 2 nuts against each other on the end, the others had snapped flush already, or did do while carefully trying to undo them.

Drilling is really tough unless the head is off, one came out that way. The remaining two had to be migged.

I really hope this isn't a told ya so post, and they just come out first time, but they really are bastards, and tend to snap when you crank on them.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 18:05 - 28 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:


These aren't really designed for seized or short studs but they might do it. They will likely require the exhaust to be removed first.
Try the plus gas but the welding method is probably the one that will work best.

Mole grips tend to be crap for this sort of thing as they don't have paralell jaws.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 16:38 - 29 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Er32 collet chuck and a roughened up collet will probably give the best clamping force on the stud. Cost about 15-20 quid. There should be plenty of space with exhaust removed. Er20 are cheaper and need less clearance but less clamping force.

Noone recommends drilling. It is very difficult in situ but much easier if you find someone with a lathe and get some drilling guides made up. If you have good studs and empty threads you can use a transfer punch to get the exact distance and clamp the guides to the surrounding studs.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 21:57 - 29 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

All sorted, that was a fucker of a job I wished I'd not started at 7pm.

Everything I planned went perfectly...

I snapped another stud getting the exhaust off, but the extractors were excellent, they made the job really easily. Heat and plusgas and they came out without too much trouble. In less than an hour I had removed the exhaust system and replaced the studs.


https://preview.ibb.co/n5WUyU/IMG_20180829_221448.jpg




Trouble was the exhaust collars had turned to dust...

https://preview.ibb.co/jHOWCp/IMG_20180829_204033.jpg

I had to whip the other set of headers of other TDM and fit them.
https://preview.ibb.co/bQFpyU/IMG_20180829_203600.jpg

It took a lump out of me though when I removed the Lamda? Sensor from the exhaust. Tetnas jab tomorrow...

https://preview.ibb.co/jYRUyU/IMG_20180829_211602.jpg

I also wanna plug this...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-CP1202KIT-Ratchet-Batteries-Charger/dp/B074JD1MWC

I got it for my birthday this year and it was the first time I properly used it, it made the job much faster and I thoroughly recommend it.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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