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| chris-red |
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 chris-red Have you considered a TDM?

Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :   
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 Posted: 20:48 - 24 Aug 2018 Post subject: Recommend a blow torch |
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I need a blow torch, any recommendations?
Don't mind paying more for something quality, but would rather not spend loads. I have an exhaust stud nightmare to tackle in a week or so.  ____________________ Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything. |
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| grr666 |
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 grr666 Super Spammer

Joined: 16 Jun 2014 Karma :   
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| Riejufixing |
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 Riejufixing World Chat Champion

Joined: 24 Jun 2018 Karma :   
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 G The Voice of Reason
Joined: 02 Feb 2002 Karma :     
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| Hong Kong Phooey |
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 Hong Kong Phooey World Chat Champion

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| Islander |
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 Islander World Chat Champion

Joined: 05 Aug 2012 Karma :    
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 Posted: 22:29 - 24 Aug 2018 Post subject: |
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I use a Rothenburger super fire brazing torch piezo ignition, works upside down or any position. I use the standard propane cylinders for normal heating/soldering type stuff and the MAP Pro cylinders if I want to braze.
Not particularly cheap but it's very good.  |
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| bacon |
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 bacon World Chat Champion
Joined: 09 Jan 2009 Karma :  
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| virus |
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 virus World Chat Champion

Joined: 17 Aug 2006 Karma :  
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| chris-red |
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 chris-red Have you considered a TDM?

Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :   
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| kramdra |
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 kramdra World Chat Champion

Joined: 28 Oct 2010 Karma :     
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| Hong Kong Phooey |
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 Hong Kong Phooey World Chat Champion

Joined: 30 Apr 2016 Karma :   
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 Posted: 12:48 - 26 Aug 2018 Post subject: |
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^The aluminium head 'sucks' any heat away from the steel studs, and also differentially expands more.
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-expansion-metals-d_859.html
Localised heat travels fast, doesn't matter on the method, it's going to move from head to stud or vise-versa no matter what. By using a torch he'll be able to repeatedly heat and cool which should 'crack' off any corrision bonding.
I'm hoping op has already been soaking them daily in penetrating oil, but I'm expecting some of them to snap no matter what.
Then expect there'll be a thread on what welder to buy  ____________________
'81 CG125, '97 FZS600 : '99 CBR600F4, '09 KTM RC8 |
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| G |
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 G The Voice of Reason
Joined: 02 Feb 2002 Karma :     
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| Hong Kong Phooey |
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 Hong Kong Phooey World Chat Champion

Joined: 30 Apr 2016 Karma :   
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| kramdra |
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 kramdra World Chat Champion

Joined: 28 Oct 2010 Karma :     
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 Posted: 16:58 - 26 Aug 2018 Post subject: |
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Freezer spray is safe, it will not cause any kind of embrittlement as it will not get that cold, and will not be hot enough to begin with. It works well in combination with a hot engine.
| Hong Kong Phooey wrote: | ^The aluminium head 'sucks' any heat away from the steel studs, and also differentially expands more.
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-expansion-metals-d_859.html
Localised heat travels fast, doesn't matter on the method, it's going to move from head to stud or vise-versa no matter what. By using a torch he'll be able to repeatedly heat and cool which should 'crack' off any corrision bonding.
I'm hoping op has already been soaking them daily in penetrating oil, but I'm expecting some of them to snap no matter what.
Then expect there'll be a thread on what welder to buy  |
It does matter. A propane/mapp torch will not be able to heat up the massive thermal mass of the water cooled cylinder head, the only way to get it hot, and create maximum clearance in the threads, is to run the engine. When there is clearance, the thread will turn. Rust has a lower density than steel, reducing that clearance. If the engine is runnable, it should always be attempted hot.
Penetrating oil. Apply after last use of vehicle, 12-24 hours before the attempt. Directly before the attempt, get the engine as hot as possible, reapply penetrating oil while engine is running. wait few minutes before turning off and attempting removal while hot.
Using oil on a hot bolt while it is in use every day can make it brittle.
The stud gets thermal cycled every day you run the engine. Heating it directly will not crack anything off. It will not increase the space available, it will not remove the rust from the thread. When it cools down it will remain a tight interference fit.
If the stud will not remove with the hot engine, Id prefer to use alum to disolve it. It will take a few days and require some continuous heat. |
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| Hong Kong Phooey |
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 Hong Kong Phooey World Chat Champion

Joined: 30 Apr 2016 Karma :   
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| kramdra |
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 kramdra World Chat Champion

Joined: 28 Oct 2010 Karma :     
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| Polarbear |
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 Polarbear Super Spammer

Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Karma :  
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 Posted: 12:08 - 27 Aug 2018 Post subject: |
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| chris-red |
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 chris-red Have you considered a TDM?

Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :   
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 Posted: 11:09 - 28 Aug 2018 Post subject: |
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I bought a Go System and MAPP can,
I have ordered some of these too as they have good reviews
https://www.amazon.co.uk/4PC-STUD-EXTRACTOR-DRIVE-CASE/dp/B004LU5PNM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1535449588&sr=8-5&keywords=stud+extractorhttps://www.amazon.co.uk/4PC-STUD-EXTRACTOR-DRIVE-CASE/dp/B004LU5PNM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1535449588&sr=8-5&keywords=stud+extractor
I have plus gas which I will be applying every night this week.
The TDM developed a leak from an exhaust gasket. As I had to ride to Silverstone to sit in the cold and wet for 6 hours Sunday, Saturday I thought it a bright idea to nip the nuts up a bit to temp fix/improve the leak. The 3rd stud snapped with pretty much no force from me. It snapped flush with the collar so I have a bit to play with.
For those of you that have done this job before (No internet mechanics please) What is the best order to do things?
I was thinking about trying with the extractors before heat? I feel like heat will boil away and negate the plus gas. The obviously concern is that is will snap closer to the head and cause more issues.
What do you think? ____________________ Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything. |
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| A100man |
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 A100man World Chat Champion

Joined: 19 Aug 2013 Karma :   
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 Posted: 11:32 - 28 Aug 2018 Post subject: |
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Patience is the key.
I haven't used that type of extractor but on On M6 studs I have found mole-grips can do the job.
Wire brush any fur and crap from the base of the stud then you can try a heating plus-gas cycle for a few days after that try rocking the stud back and forth, if it gives a little more plus gas and patience.
Bon chance. ____________________ Now: A100, SRX250, XJ598, FZ750, SL1000
Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600, Skorpion, GT 250 |
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| Riejufixing |
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 Riejufixing World Chat Champion

Joined: 24 Jun 2018 Karma :   
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| chris-red |
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 chris-red Have you considered a TDM?

Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :   
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| Hong Kong Phooey |
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 Hong Kong Phooey World Chat Champion

Joined: 30 Apr 2016 Karma :   
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 Posted: 16:48 - 28 Aug 2018 Post subject: |
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After you've snapped all the studs off flush, then tried to drill the hardened studs, slipped the drill sideways into the ally head (with your newly purchased right angle chuck), and snapped a screw extractor, bought alum and tried rigging a hot dam, which won't work, just mig weld blobs on to the stud and use mole grips to back it out in 15 minutes (as in the vid link above) , then ponder why you ever bothered trying all that other shit! The heat from the mig and the blob on the end does it in no time, honestly.
This is from someone who got 4 of the bastards out last year, in situ. One came out by screwing 2 nuts against each other on the end, the others had snapped flush already, or did do while carefully trying to undo them.
Drilling is really tough unless the head is off, one came out that way. The remaining two had to be migged.
I really hope this isn't a told ya so post, and they just come out first time, but they really are bastards, and tend to snap when you crank on them. ____________________
'81 CG125, '97 FZS600 : '99 CBR600F4, '09 KTM RC8 |
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| sickpup |
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 sickpup Old Timer

Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :     
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 Posted: 18:05 - 28 Aug 2018 Post subject: |
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These aren't really designed for seized or short studs but they might do it. They will likely require the exhaust to be removed first.
Try the plus gas but the welding method is probably the one that will work best.
Mole grips tend to be crap for this sort of thing as they don't have paralell jaws. |
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| kramdra |
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 kramdra World Chat Champion

Joined: 28 Oct 2010 Karma :     
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| chris-red |
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 chris-red Have you considered a TDM?

Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :   
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 8 years, 60 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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