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Fahniy
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Joined: 20 Dec 2018
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PostPosted: 12:19 - 20 Dec 2018    Post subject: Oil changes Reply with quote

Hi, i'm new here. Need good advice.
I bought another Wing - 82 Espencade - previous owner was running synthetic - can I change back to a regular oil https://mechanicguides.com/best-oil-additive/ or will this cause problems.
Thanks!


Last edited by Fahniy on 07:33 - 24 Dec 2018; edited 1 time in total
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 12:34 - 20 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes. The question is why would you.

Synthetic oil is far superior to any mineral oil. Even a semi-synthetic oil is better than pure mineral oil. Why is that? Well, synthetic oil does not leave any residues/deposits inside the engine and doesn't degrade as quickly as mineral oil would.

Now (not your case), if you've been using mineral oil for years and now thinking it's time to switch to synthetic, you must flush the engine first, several times to be sure. That is because mineral oils leave deposits inside the engine and the moment you start using synthetic oil, it will dissolve these deposits and small bits of it will then flow through the engine. In automotive engines, these small bits typically clog up the hydraulic valve tappets = knocking from the head, tappet damage.

TL; DR: You may switch back to mineral oil, however I wouldn't.
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Northern Monkey
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PostPosted: 12:57 - 20 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:

Now (not your case), if you've been using mineral oil for years and now thinking it's time to switch to synthetic, you must flush the engine first, several times to be sure. That is because mineral oils leave deposits inside the engine and the moment you start using synthetic oil, it will dissolve these deposits and small bits of it will then flow through the engine. In automotive engines, these small bits typically clog up the hydraulic valve tappets = knocking from the head, tappet damage.



^ This is all horse shit. You can mix synthetic and non-synthetic oils. If you couldn't, semi-synthetic wouldn't be a thing.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 13:05 - 20 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Northern Monkey wrote:
^ This is all horse shit. You can mix synthetic and non-synthetic oils. If you couldn't, semi-synthetic wouldn't be a thing.


You do not read what I say. Synthetic oils dissolve all the mineral oil and carbon deposits. If you run a semi-synthetic oil there are no deposits left in the engine. Also, I have seen this several times before, people switching to (semi) synthetic oils for their cars which then developed a loud valve tappets noise, as the tiny holes in them got clogged up by the now freed deposits that the years of mineral oil usage left behind.
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Last edited by RhynoCZ on 13:08 - 20 Dec 2018; edited 1 time in total
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Ste
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PostPosted: 13:08 - 20 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

You do not need to flush the engine when switching between mineral oil and synthetic oil
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 13:10 - 20 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Engine flush costs next to nothing and is advisable for the reasons above. However, this is the internet and people say all kinds of things that they don't mean. Thinking
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Robby
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PostPosted: 21:24 - 20 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ignore Rhyno. He means well, but he's talking shite and marketing.

It's a 1982 Wing. All it needs is whatever sort of oil existed in 1982. So a basic mineral multigrade oil.

Use whatever motorcycle-specific oil you're happy with. Anything you can buy today will be equal or superior to anything you could buy in 1982.

The only thing to watch out for is clutch slip that can happen in some circumstances with some modern car oils. That sentence was carefully written to avoid the usual argument. Using a bike-specific oil gets around that problem, and argument.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 22:26 - 20 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Ignore Rhyno. He means well, but he's talking shite and marketing.

It's a 1982 Wing. All it needs is whatever sort of oil existed in 1982. So a basic mineral multigrade oil.

Use whatever motorcycle-specific oil you're happy with. Anything you can buy today will be equal or superior to anything you could buy in 1982.

The only thing to watch out for is clutch slip that can happen in some circumstances with some modern car oils. That sentence was carefully written to avoid the usual argument. Using a bike-specific oil gets around that problem, and argument.


^^This. It'll do no harm to switch to semi-synth or basic mineral oil. No need to flush the old stuff, just run it till it's warm and then drain it and refill with the oil of your choice. By the way, the oil that seems to cause clutch issues is Magnatec.

I run all of my bikes on Comma Eurolite semi-synth. It's cheap enough and doesn't cause any clutch issues Smile
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 22:46 - 20 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have no idea what I am talking about, but I have gone from mineral to fully synthetic by just using semi synthetic in between the change.
It made sense to me and the bike was fine for a long time afterwards until it was sold on to the unsuspecting buyer.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 01:55 - 21 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
That sentence was carefully written to avoid the usual argument. Using a bike-specific oil gets around that problem, and argument.

You just had to go and start the usual argument.

Razz
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 03:24 - 21 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any cheap walmart etc brand 10/40 car oil will be just fine.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 07:12 - 21 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Uh oh - oil thread alert!

..damn too late Rolling Eyes
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 10:57 - 21 Dec 2018    Post subject: gl Reply with quote

see pm, i would use synthetic suitable for a "wet" clutch in this engine, as cost would not be a problem if I had one of these.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 14:16 - 21 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, I can't resist posting to an oil thread.

There is a grain of truth in the "new oil flushes out deposits" story, but it isn't as clear cut as RhynoCZ makes out. Mineral oils are not guaranteed to create deposits and synthetic oils are not guaranteed not to make them. There's a good chance the engine is already largely 'clean'. Furthermore it is generally a strong detergency that lifts old deposits rather than a different type of base oil - if anything synthetic base oil has a lower tendency to solubilise things.

Short answer to the OP - you can mix oils of mineral, part- or fully- synthetic at will, so long as you realise that mixing them will lead to an end point that isn't exactly one thing or the other. There shouldn't be any problems though*, if used within the required specification requirement and oil change interval.

*caveat: with a bike of that age and unknown history, there are no guarantees.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 14:30 - 21 Dec 2018    Post subject: oil Reply with quote

Some bikers are very fond of using Shell Rotela, which is a high detergent oil mainly intended for diesel engine?
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weasley
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PostPosted: 14:51 - 21 Dec 2018    Post subject: Re: oil Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
Some bikers are very fond of using Shell Rotela, which is a high detergent oil mainly intended for diesel engine?


This is a US thing. They seem to like to use Rotella in everything. Rotella is a US brand, in Europe it is Shell Rimula but that's just the brand family name - you'd need to choose one of the numerous variants.

There's no need for bikes to have high detergent oils, you're better off with an oil at least desigend for a petrol engine, if not specifically a bike engine.
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 21 Dec 2018    Post subject: Re: oil Reply with quote

weasley wrote:

There's no need for bikes to have high detergent oils


Is there any truth that an engine oil can have too high an amount of detergent?
The internet of lies....the internet, told me that a very high detergent level can remove the sacrificial layer of zinc/boron designed to protect surfaces from impact.

I've noticed that Motorbike oils tend to have around 2700-3200ppm of Calcium as a detergent. BUT they also have 1300 - 2500 ppm of zinc / boron as a protective / sacrificial layer.

Whereas car engine oils (the API SN) tend to have 2600-2900ppm Calcium but only 1000ppm zinc.

I don't know if its "simply" that car oils tend to lead development, so use the newer API specs and so need to have a lower zinc content as per the spec.
And if bike oils can't be bothered to move to newer specs because the money isnt there. Or if the older spec oils which allow more zinc are in fact better suited to motorbikes.

Or none of the above Smile


EDIT:
I've used a 50/50 mix of Total Quartz 9000 5w40 and 10w50 on 1 bike for 25k miles and another 2 bikes for 3k miles each.

About £4.60 a litre.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 7 years, 52 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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