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Jamesthebutle...
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Joined: 26 Apr 2019
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PostPosted: 09:17 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Need help please Reply with quote

Im going to cut a long story short Smile My wife bought me a semi used bike with 9000km as a gift. It was dropped off at my home by seller qnd his wife. Just for the record; my wife knows nothing about bikes. She really just wanted to surprise me. Problem is bike has some issues and I would like to hear and get some info and advice before doing anything to it.

Its a KSR Grs 125cc 2017 QJ157FMI-2B.

From what Ive read this is a chineese copy of the Suzuki GS125 engine

These are the problems:

1st gear+2nd gear bike pulls and rides ok. ( at least i think it feels ok for a 125cc )
3rd gear gets to about 61/67 km/h but it takes long to reach that speed depending on head wind. Road is a flat. I would think that this is very little.
4th gear top speed +- 71/76 km/h. Really feels like its lacking power and struggles to keep that speed.
5th gear : forget about it. Speed drops down queit a bit:

This is the speedometer reading of speed in km/h

From what I have read , bike should do around 95 km/h. I know its a small bike, im a heavy bloke (103kg pure beer belly::: i mean pure muscle) Smile , but surely it should reach 90 km/h no problem. I have read some ppl get 100/110 km/h out of this bike.

I can change gears no problem, but I have also noticed that cluch feels like its worn. If you are riding and pull clutch in and drop it quickly, you should feel that jerk of engagment, but it almost feels like a slip disk clutch (hope im making sense ). It takes long for clutch to engage again and its on the end of the lever;

Could that be the problem of lack of speed and power?

I checked the air filter today. Its a new one.
I checked spark plug and compared to chart and its burning ok. Looks new. It is correct spark plug according to manual.
I checked the chain tention and i tightened it to spec as it was very loose.
Engine turns and sounds healthy. If I open choke with motor warm, it cuts out engine, which is normal.

Saturday im going to open up to have a look at clutch for signs of wear and tear.

Hope Ive been able to explain well enough. Any questions feel free to ask.

*** UPDATE ***

26/04/2019 : 11h26
Just a small update. Ive taken apart the bike to reach the carb to clean it. There is a small black box that goes to engine and main air filter intake pipe. I noticed it had water in it. It has a little tap connected to it. I opened it up and drained water. Guess it is not supposed to be with water. After lunch I will be cleaning carb.

26/04/2019 : 13h50
Cleaned carburator out. Did have some brownish like dirt water markings in float cup. Assembled it back together and took it for a spin. Little better but still 4th in the 76/78 km/h range.

26/04/2019 : 14h55
Took out filter from inside filter box. Took it for a spin and it did have peak moments of 85 km/h. So more air intake = little more speed/power

26/04/2019 : 17h29
Had time to have a look at clutch plates. I have compared it to new ones online and it looks pretty much ok still to me. What do you guys think? If it is ok, then it rules out the possibility of being the cause of bike being so slow. I watched a vid on Youtube today on somebody doing a review of this bike model, and it clearly shows him easily getting to 95/103km/h with stock bike.

https://i.postimg.cc/Qd55Yvk7/clutch.jpg

28/04/2019 : 15h32
Inbetween yesterday and today I decided to change oil/filter. Used recomended oil.
Then I decided to check the valves and reset them. I tried different combinations with feeler gauge and set Exhaust/Intake from 0.03mm to 0.08mm. Each time I set them would start the bike and listen. 0.06mm to 0.08mm I would get ticking sound. 0.05mm in cold no ticking; but with engine hot, very slight ticking sound. Let it cool down again and then set it at 0.04mm. Is working fine now.


Last edited by Jamesthebutler on 14:41 - 28 Apr 2019; edited 5 times in total
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toby1
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PostPosted: 09:35 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a 125........... Laughing
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Jamesthebutle...
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Joined: 26 Apr 2019
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PostPosted: 10:21 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

toby1 wrote:
It's a 125........... Laughing



True . But not too long ago I had a 125cc gy6 scooter, all stock and it got too around 90 km/h on a straight. I think it was 6kw. This bike is 8.2 kw with more hp. Therefore I would think that it should perform a little better and faster

I miss the bugger Smile
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Minty
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PostPosted: 10:28 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's a reason they delivered it to you. Welcome to the world of Chinese bike ownership, maybe deliver it to the next victim?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 10:46 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

toby1 wrote:
It's a 125........... Laughing


And what is wrong with a 125 you cunt?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 10:48 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jamesthebutler wrote:
toby1 wrote:
It's a 125........... Laughing



True . But not too long ago I had a 125cc gy6 scooter, all stock and it got too around 90 km/h on a straight. I think it was 6kw. This bike is 8.2 kw with more hp. Therefore I would think that it should perform a little better and faster

I miss the bugger Smile


Welcome Sir. Ignore the pricks on here.

I think some are still at school.

Hope you sort out your new ride big yin.

Remember, There is a engineered solution for any prblem. 😂
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Jamesthebutle...
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Joined: 26 Apr 2019
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PostPosted: 10:52 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Minty wrote:
There's a reason they delivered it to you. Welcome to the world of Chinese bike ownership, maybe deliver it to the next victim?

Thanks Minty. I remember when i got my gy6 scooter and it started giving problems. After I fixed them, she was an amazing little runner. Offcourse you cant compare the quality in some parts to a brand scooter, but neitherless, she was very fun to ride.

They took her lack of knowledge and conned her. Here in Belgium there is a law that buyer buys as is and no refund is given back should you change your mind 10 mins later inbetween private buyer/sellers. I personally will never sell somebody something as fully working and knowing its broken. Unfortunately there are many ruthless sharks out there who do this all the time.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 10:54 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Same rule applies in UK unless you buy from a 'registered' dealer.
It's a bad world out there.
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Jamesthebutle...
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Joined: 26 Apr 2019
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PostPosted: 10:59 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Same rule applies in UK unless you buy from a 'registered' dealer.
It's a bad world out there.


True words spoken MCN. There is a reason why she aint performing as should and I will find the reason sooner or later Smile
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 11:05 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Re: Need help please Reply with quote

Jamesthebutler wrote:
My wife bought me a semi used bike

Its a KSR Grs 125cc 2017 QJ157FMI-2B.

I have also noticed that cluch feels like its worn.


A "semi-used" bike? Anyway, If you've got clutch slip, you will be able to tell by checking the tacho as you're accelerating.
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Jamesthebutle...
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PostPosted: 11:20 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Re: Need help please Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
Jamesthebutler wrote:
My wife bought me a semi used bike

Its a KSR Grs 125cc 2017 QJ157FMI-2B.

I have also noticed that cluch feels like its worn.


A "semi-used" bike? Anyway, If you've got clutch slip, you will be able to tell by checking the tacho as you're accelerating.


Sorry about my wrong choice of words Riejufixing. Would it be correct to say semi new? Or just a "used bike" that has little over 12 months.

As too the tacho I did not really pay attention to the reading. When I say it feels like a worn clutch to me is from past experience with a car. If you "pop" the clutch in a car in 1st with high revs, car will pull off fast and maybe do a little tyre screeching/burnout. on a bike if you "pop" the cluth while reving a little, you should get front wheel of the ground a little or a lot or worst case, you flip the bike.

Shes not doing that. Clutch engages very slowly at the end of the clutch cable. Dont get me wrong, but I just used this as an example. I dont ride wild, and even better for me, I dont know or want to learn how to ride with front tyre off the ground Smile
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 11:26 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Re: Need help please Reply with quote

Jamesthebutler wrote:
As too the tacho I did not really pay attention to the reading. When I say it feels like a worn clutch to me is from past experience with a car. If you "pop" the clutch in a car in 1st with high revs, car will pull off fast and maybe do a little tyre screeching. on a bike if you "pop" the cluth while reving a little, you should get front wheel of the ground a little or a lot or worst case, you flip the bike.

Shes not doing that. Clutch engages very slowly at the end of the clutch cable. Dont get me wrong, but I just used this as an example. I dont ride wild, and even better for me, I dont know or want to learn how to ride with front tyre off the ground Smile


Well check for free operation & the cable from lever to actuator, plus free play. The cable should be free in the outer ofc. Check the tacho next time you're out, third gear should be OK, gives you time and a speed range to look at.
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Jamesthebutle...
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 26 Apr 2019
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PostPosted: 11:34 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Re: Need help please Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
Jamesthebutler wrote:
As too the tacho I did not really pay attention to the reading. When I say it feels like a worn clutch to me is from past experience with a car. If you "pop" the clutch in a car in 1st with high revs, car will pull off fast and maybe do a little tyre screeching. on a bike if you "pop" the cluth while reving a little, you should get front wheel of the ground a little or a lot or worst case, you flip the bike.

Shes not doing that. Clutch engages very slowly at the end of the clutch cable. Dont get me wrong, but I just used this as an example. I dont ride wild, and even better for me, I dont know or want to learn how to ride with front tyre off the ground Smile


Well check for free operation & the cable from lever to actuator, plus free play. The cable should be free in the outer ofc. Check the tacho next time you're out, third gear should be OK, gives you time and a speed range to look at.


I shall. After lunch Im going to take carb apart and clean it out. Then putting every thing back together and testing it again.
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toby1
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PostPosted: 12:02 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
And what is wrong with a 125 you cunt?


Wind your neck in you miserable bastard didn't you see the smiley face Laughing
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MCN
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PostPosted: 13:03 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

toby1 wrote:
Quote:
And what is wrong with a 125 you cunt?


Wind your neck in you miserable bastard didn't you see the smiley face Laughing


Yes I saw the smiley.

Ambiguity reigns Supreme.

🤣
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Robby
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PostPosted: 14:51 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Adjust the clutch cable so it has some free play. If the clutch is engaging very slowly, chances are it just needs a new cable.

You can try lubricating the cable, but it rarely works.

To fit the new cable, run it alongside the existing one. That means it is following the correct route. Then disconnect the old cable, connect the new one, and remove the old one.
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Jamesthebutle...
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 26 Apr 2019
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Adjust the clutch cable so it has some free play. If the clutch is engaging very slowly, chances are it just needs a new cable.

You can try lubricating the cable, but it rarely works.

To fit the new cable, run it alongside the existing one. That means it is following the correct route. Then disconnect the old cable, connect the new one, and remove the old one.

Yep that will be a possibility. Just took out the cluth plates/discs and they pretty much still look ok. So that i suppose rules out why its so slow Sad
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:57 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

As Robby says.
I usually disconnect the cable at one end, attach the new cable to the old one (by just butting the ends together using electrical tape/Scotchtape/masking tape.
End to End makes it a bit easier to pass through clamps.
You may still encounter places where the cable is secured by plastic cable ties or even metal tabs. Those you deal with as required.

You should tie the new cable to the same places it was originally held too.

Turn the steering through its range and look to see if the cable snags anywhere or pulls/cuts across any wires or hot places.

Then fit and adjust to correct setting. Trial and error on some machines.
Not much info on Chinese bikes or what ther is normally in Egyptian.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had to translate the speed to real money
as our new friend is in Belgium
76 km/h = 47 mph
100 km/h = 62 mph

What colour is the plug?
this can help tell you if its fuelling properly
Black/sooty over fuelling, white running lean sort of thing

Is there play in the clutch lever?
There should always be a few mm in lever movement before it takes up tension
on the cable, if it's too tight it can cause the clutch to slip

My lads have had a few chinese bikes and while 125s aren't that exciting, you should be
able to get 60 mph 100 km/h out of it assuming it isnt worn out

This the ksrgrs and a Bennets review said
"During the road test the GRS behaved impeccably, despite still needing to be run in the bike would
hit 60mph ( 100km/h) quite easily, so expect to see a bit more once loosened up"
https://www.bennetts.co.uk/-/media/import/5719_images/660_img_8158.ashx?la=en&hash=7EB0052632647977BA08664C15A4AB3E1854273D
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Jamesthebutle...
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 26 Apr 2019
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PostPosted: 18:59 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Had to translate the speed to real money
as our new friend is in Belgium
76 km/h = 47 mph
100 km/h = 62 mph

What colour is the plug?
this can help tell you if its fuelling properly
Black/sooty over fuelling, white running lean sort of thing

Is there play in the clutch lever?
There should always be a few mm in lever movement before it takes up tension
on the cable, if it's too tight it can cause the clutch to slip

My lads have had a few chinese bikes and while 125s aren't that exciting, you should be
able to get 60 mph 100 km/h out of it assuming it isnt worn out

This the ksrgrs and a Bennets review said
"During the road test the GRS behaved impeccably, despite still needing to be run in the bike would
hit 60mph ( 100km/h) quite easily, so expect to see a bit more once loosened up"
https://www.bennetts.co.uk/-/media/import/5719_images/660_img_8158.ashx?la=en&hash=7EB0052632647977BA08664C15A4AB3E1854273D

Hi WD Forte. Sorry for not posting in mph. Could have easily done that.
The spark plug looks ok to me. What do you think?
Im running out of ideas right now as I thought clutch could be worn out and for that reason not gaining speed. But clutch looks ok too.
1st + 2nd really pull well, but when you put in 3rd it really struggles to reach 47 mph. 4th just maintains the 45/47 mph

And yes from what I have read and seen, it should easily do 62 mph
https://i.postimg.cc/Gp7PwGVw/spark-plug.jpg
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Jamesthebutle...
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Joined: 26 Apr 2019
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PostPosted: 19:06 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
As Robby says.
I usually disconnect the cable at one end, attach the new cable to the old one (by just butting the ends together using electrical tape/Scotchtape/masking tape.
End to End makes it a bit easier to pass through clamps.
You may still encounter places where the cable is secured by plastic cable ties or even metal tabs. Those you deal with as required.

You should tie the new cable to the same places it was originally held too.

Turn the steering through its range and look to see if the cable snags anywhere or pulls/cuts across any wires or hot places.

Then fit and adjust to correct setting. Trial and error on some machines.
Not much info on Chinese bikes or what ther is normally in Egyptian.


I will be ordering a new cable next week. I will defenitly use your tip to replace it
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Jamesthebutle...
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 26 Apr 2019
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PostPosted: 20:57 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Vavle clearance Reply with quote

Just a quick question my friends

Anyone who has the Haynes book or knows from expereience whqt the correct valve clearance is for this motor?

The Haynes book I find online states and I quote:

-Chinese, Taiwanese & Korean 125Cc Motorcycles : Revised 2015????
Engine types covered: OHV single code 157FMI and 156MI-2B, OHC single code K157FMI and 154FMI, OHC twin 244FMI. -

Mine is a QJ157FMI-2B. Does anyone know or could look up in manual what is recommended valve clearance?

Would 0.4/0.7 admission and exhaust 0.13/0.18 be correct?

Have nothing to loose in trying to figure out what is wrong with this bike
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before you start pulling the engine apart, is it running the correct size sprockets?
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Jamesthebutle...
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Joined: 26 Apr 2019
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PostPosted: 22:26 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

wr6133 wrote:
Before you start pulling the engine apart, is it running the correct size sprockets?


Hello Wr6133.

I really havent looked at that. Bike looks pretty stock and all bolts and nuts look like have never been touched. Wife told me who she bought it from was in his 40's. Doesnt mean he didnt do something to it. Where i could visibly see some work was done was on 3 nuts to oil filter and under engine oil drainer. For the rest I removed the tank and plastics to get to carburator and it really looked like it was first time removed since factory build.

Do you know by anychance what factory spocket sizes are? Teeth count or measurments? Would save me a ton of time searching online
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 07:14 - 27 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had to look back through and this hasn't been mentioned:
What oil is in the engine? There's a difference between (most) car oils and motorcycle oils.
Many car oils have additives which can make a 'wet' motorcycle clutch slip. If your bike has car engine oil in it then it could well be making the clutch slip - that's if the clutch is indeed slipping.
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