Changing fork oil, top caps...

[EazyDuz]

There must be an easier way of doing this than what I did today. I wanted to change the fork oil so:

1. Jack front end up so wheel is off the ground
2. Undo top caps with a towel over the top so they dont shoot into outer space
3. Used a vacuum pump to remove old oil, refilled with new stuff
4. Attempt to put top caps back on.

What a fukin nightmare. The main issues are:

- The springs stick out 2-3 inches
- The spring seats on the inner RIM of the top cap, so it slides off and goes flying far too easily
- The threads are very fine and made of butter

They look like this, but imagine on the underside there is about a 4mm wide rim in which the spring must sit flush on, while you push them down:

https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/323247794193_/2007-06-09-Suzuki-Vl800-C50-Boulevard-Fork-Caps.jpg

I did eventually do it, after 3 hours trying by myself before getting a second pair of hands, and even then it took several goes.
Are a lot of bikes designed this way or is this just a Suzuki thing? I hope I never have to take them off again and if I do i'll buy new ones because they're not in the best shape after so many failed attempts
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To shreds you say? Tss tss tss

[Islander]

Next time drop the forks out of the bike - it's much easier. Doing it that way you can hold the cap and compress the spring with one hand while you rotate the stanchion to catch the start of the thread with the other.

ETA:

Also, the spring doesn't usually bear on the cap. There's the spring then a spring cap then usually a tubular spacer with the fork cap bearing on the top of the spacer.

[EazyDuz]

[Robby]

If you didn't take the forks off and pump out the old oil, you didn't get it all out.

[Islander]

[Islander]

[EazyDuz]

[Islander]

[EazyDuz]

[Tdibs]

Nah depending on the model you are likely to have more spacer sticking out the top.

Dont most manuals say to air gap the fork oil level with the fork compressed (spring removed) anyhow? Need to take the forks off to do it properly imo.
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Previous : 09 Vanvan 125| 02' Sv650s || Current: 1999 Xj600n | 1992 DR650 RSE | 2005 Fazer 1000

[Sister Sledge]

You have to remember that with Delboy he's sponsored to the hilt by various suppliers. It's quite obvious that he's going to show that a device works perfectly. Editing removes all of the failures remember..

Think of it this way: You have a bottle and want to empty it of fluid. Unfortunately the bottle also has some gears, a few springs and a bolt inside.
Tip the bottle and all of the fluid flows past the items inside and eventually drips out. Use a straw/vacuum and fluid will always gather around and under things in the bottle.
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CCM 404 DS

[Pete.]

Next time you do it get a 6-point socket and long extension on a T-bar. stick some tape around the hex so it jams in the socket then all you have to do it put one hand on the T-bar for pushing and turning and use the other to steady it all by holding the extension.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[stinkwheel]

You can also put a ratchet spanner on the hex then use a 2-leg puller hooked under the edge of the top-yoke to compress the top-cap as you turn it.

It's best to put something under the puller bolt to stop it marking the top cap.

If you think that's a bastard, you should try some kawasakis where it's just a steel plug you have to push in then fit a circlip above it.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[EazyDuz]

[ThatDippyTwat]

[EazyDuz]

[ThatDippyTwat]

[sickpup]

[sickpup]

How did you jack up the front?
I'm wondering as you need to push down pretty hard and with consistant pressure to thread the fork caps back on. Usual is a breeze block under the exhaust and someone to hold the back of the bike down while you push but it doesn't look like you did this.