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Bypassing the Fan Sensor on FZR600

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Peak District Rider
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 01 Aug 2019
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 01 Aug 2019    Post subject: Bypassing the Fan Sensor on FZR600 Reply with quote
I have a Yamaha FZR600. I want to bypass the radiator fan sensor. How do I do this?
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 01 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
So, in the interests of clarity, you want to fit a switch to allow you to manually turn the fan on sooner than the sensor would?

The fan switch has two terminals. Attach a wire to each of these using a piggy-back terminal and connect one to each ternimal on your switch. So the manual switch is connected in paralell with the fan switch. The fan will come on as normal when the engine overheats. If you flick the switch, it will come on anyway.

Worth considering why you want to do this. Why wouldn't the fan be kicking in when it ought to? Fan switches don't often fail, they are also cheap and easy to replace if they do. So is the coolant level where it should be?

In my head, fitting a manual fan switch is a mental sticking plaster for a blown head gasket.
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MCN
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 17:45 - 01 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
stinkwheel wrote:
So, in the interests of clarity, you want to fit a switch to allow you to manually turn the fan on sooner than the sensor would?

The fan switch has two terminals. Attach a wire to each of these using a piggy-back terminal and connect one to each ternimal on your switch. So the manual switch is connected in paralell with the fan switch. The fan will come on as normal when the engine overheats. If you flick the switch, it will come on anyway.

Worth considering why you want to do this. Why wouldn't the fan be kicking in when it ought to? Fan switches don't often fail, they are also cheap and easy to replace if they do. So is the coolant level where it should be?


In my head, fitting a manual fan switch is a mental sticking plaster for a blown head gasket.


Fuck..

I'd check the radiator core is clean too. Inside and out.

A 'modern' radiator has MASSES more cooling capacity than is required.
If it cannot get air flow or coolant cannot circulate you will overheat.

You can flush it out using radflush. Leave it in for a week if you use the hoowur for commute.

Drain and flush with fresh water. Tap is fine.

Fill with coolant. (That contains an inhibitor 2%).

External blockage is normally flies and road tar.

Bastard to clean in-situ but possible to get it a bit better.

I had great results using Cilit Bang. Honest.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.
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Peak District Rider
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 01 Aug 2019
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PostPosted: 19:58 - 01 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
I have a complex reason for wanting to do this that I don't want to get into, but if I put a scotch-clip on each wire (one black and one blue) to the fan and join them together will the fan run on constant?, and if I fit a switch I'll have the option of constant or via the sensor? Is that correct?
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Tankie
Crazy Courier



Joined: 24 Feb 2017
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PostPosted: 20:06 - 01 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
Do not use Scotchloks , if you have to do this bodge use piggyback connectors
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 20:14 - 01 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
Peak District Rider wrote:
I have a complex reason for wanting to do this that I don't want to get into, but if I put a scotch-clip on each wire (one black and one blue) to the fan and join them together will the fan run on constant?, and if I fit a switch I'll have the option of constant or via the sensor? Is that correct?


I don't think connecting them together will work. You need to connect the +ve to a live I think.
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raesewell
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Joined: 22 Oct 2012
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 01 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
Do not under any circumstances use scotch Loks, they will fail.
Posi taps are the way to go if you don't use piggy backs.
https://posi-connect.com/collections/posi-tap
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Shaft
World Chat Champion



Joined: 27 Dec 2010
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PostPosted: 21:17 - 01 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
Peak District Rider wrote:
I have a complex reason for wanting to do this that I don't want to get into, but if I put a scotch-clip on each wire (one black and one blue) to the fan and join them together will the fan run on constant?, and if I fit a switch I'll have the option of constant or via the sensor? Is that correct?


Not really interested in the why or how, but you are aware that cooling fan motors aren't really designed to run constantly?

Chances are, having it running all the time will cause it to fail pretty quickly, then whatever major problem you're trying overcome will become permanent.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 15:33 - 02 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
Peak District Rider wrote:
I have a complex reason for wanting to do this that I don't want to get into, but if I put a scotch-clip on each wire (one black and one blue) to the fan and join them together will the fan run on constant?, and if I fit a switch I'll have the option of constant or via the sensor? Is that correct?


If you want the fan on all the time, just connect the two wires gong into the fan switch together. If you want the option of using the standard fan switch with a manual override, connect your override switch in paralell to this. Do not use scotchlocks, they are the work of the devil.

Buy a new fan now because I'd expect it to burn out in fairly short-order.

For avoidance of doubt, the fan switch is this thing:
https://images.wemoto.com/full/OEM_YAMAHA/10051711.jpg
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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The last post was made 6 years, 151 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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