Bandit oil change - do you need new washer

[seeyalater]

Hey, as all bikes cars are different thought id best ask before i commit to the change, does the sump bolt need replacing or a washer adding. made mistake on my audi once and it leaked and cant afford the risk with a bike.

its a 2007 K6 bandit. no idea what oil was in previous so should i go for semi synthetic or what oil would you put in a bike new to you.
has little service history but not detailed at all.

thanks in advance.

[stinkwheel]

Yes, get a new washer. They are usually either copper or aluminium. Copper ones can be re-annealed but they are cheap to replace.

I'm not going to be drawn into the usual epic oil debate. Consult the users manual, don't use anything of a lower grade than they recommend.

I personally fit a dowty bonded seal washer on sump plugs these days. Those can be re-used. Usually M12.

Be very careful not to overtighten the sump bolt, it is easy to strip them on motorcycles.
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[Baffler186]

You can get away with re-using the crush washer but they are cheap as chips so if you can, use a new one. No, you don't need a new bolt. Don't over-tighten, use a torque wrench if you have one, but otherwise just use common sense. If you've got a big ratchet then hold it close to the ratchet head (not the end). They are very easy to strip.

there are loads of threads on oil. Use whatever the manufacturer says. but in my case I have used the cheapest 10w40 I could find, and change it every 2.5k - 3k miles. I still think using cheap oil is fine as long as you change it regularly (I usually go 500-1000 miles sooner than the manufacturer recommends).
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[seeyalater]

[jaffa90]

I just clean all and use a small amount silicon sealant around the washer and put back not too tight.

[seeyalater]

manual says SF/sg which means nothing to me. lol
from what ive read semi sythetic is best. if there is a oil thread to save me talking shit and wasting time let me know, i know this is simple stuff but bike info seems harder to find than it ever was for the car

[NJD]

The oil drain bolt (or sump bolt as you name it) can be re-used, and unless the head is damaged or corroded there's no need to replace it. You'll find the threads within well lubricated by the oil so should come undone with ease. You can, of course, order a replacement from places like Wemoto (online parts store) if you'd rather know what state your bike is in after buying it (I did when I recently got my CBF, and its always handy to have spares of various parts).

In terms of copper washers you can get assorted kits from Halfords for like £7-9. I've used it across a couple of bikes for banjo bolt's and sump plugs. Also, though, if you order a new bolt from Wemoto then it shouldn't be hard to find the washers on their too (probably about 0.50-0.99 per one as a guess).

In terms of oil I'd go 10w40 semi synthetic, but refer to your user handbook or workshop manual for guidance. As to what brand it depends how much you want to spend, and how often you want to change it. I used to buy 4L + 1L free for something like £26-30 for the ZR7 when I had it from Motul (5000 I think that was). On the CBF I've gone for Halfords (because money was tight at the time with the amount of work I was doing to it) and will probably change that when the weather improves.

As above make sure you research torque values for the bolt as stripping it can lead to a world of hurt, and even more so if the bike doesn't have a removable sump pan (as in the bottom of the engine is one complete part). Some people get confused about the direction to tighten and enlighten since the bolts are often upside down but set your ratchet the correct way (practice on another bolt) before tightening / loosening it and you can't go wrong.

When it comes to tightening the bolt thread it in by hand until it seats and then either torque up with wrench or nip it with a spanner or 1/4 ratchet (use a 3/8 and no idea of feeling and it will soon go).

Its advisable to run the bike on the stand after an oil change in neutral to check for leaks, turn it off and then let it settle to see how much you need to top it up by (drain, fill, start the bike and run for a minute or two, let it settle and refill). Then after that go for a ride and stop part way to see if there's any leakage.

Make sure you've got rags spare for the oil that will, probably, leak on the downpipes.

Also if you're doing it outside at this time of year think about asking a local shop to do it as it shouldn't cost more than half of an hour to an hour (depending how stingy their feeling).
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[seeyalater]

[Pete.]

Yes fit a new washer if you can. The washer deforms to make the seal oil-tight.

There's many an oil change done without changing it but then there's many a stripped plug thread too caused by pulling the sump plug up to stop it dripping.

Be warned, sump plug threads strip easily. Don't over-tighten it.
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[NJD]

[Easy-X]

If you do want to change the oil sump plug then it might be worth considering a few quid more and getting one with a magnet on the end to gather up any bits of steel and iron. Obviously it won't pick up alloy swarf but that's relatively soft stuff.
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[Riejufixing]

[seeyalater]

thats the one, ive ordered washer and oil etc so will see how it goes.

great help here as usual.. thanks

[Confusion]

[seeyalater]

[RhynoCZ]

[linuxyeti]

If I'm likely to own a bike lng enough to be carrying out multiple oil changes, then, where one's available, I get a Stahlbus oil drain valve
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[Easy-X]

[linuxyeti]

[jaffa90]

[RhynoCZ]

[chris-red]

I never/rarely bothered, however after 12 years I finally have my first drain plug leak. so I certainly will in the future
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