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| daws0n |
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 daws0n Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 03 Jul 2017 Karma :    
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| Nobby the Bastard |
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 Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar

Joined: 16 Aug 2013 Karma :  
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| McJamweasel |
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 McJamweasel BCF Junkie

Joined: 22 Mar 2002 Karma :     
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| MCN |
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 MCN Super Spammer

Joined: 22 Jul 2015 Karma :   
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 Posted: 15:56 - 22 Dec 2019 Post subject: |
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Torque it to the OEM's bolt spec.
ps I don't call them Crash Bungs.
They don't work.
I've never crashed after I've fitted them.  ____________________ Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN. |
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| daws0n |
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 daws0n Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 03 Jul 2017 Karma :    
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 18:20 - 22 Dec 2019 Post subject: |
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If it feels like it's not getting any tighter and you're not up to torque yet, STOP, back them out and inspect the threads on both the bolt and the thing it's bolting into. This is a sign something is amiss. You may be stripping something.
Also check your wrench is actually clicking by putting it in the vice.
Also make sure there isn't too much oil on the threads, this can lead to massive overtightening. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| Hong Kong Phooey |
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 Hong Kong Phooey World Chat Champion

Joined: 30 Apr 2016 Karma :   
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| McJamweasel |
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 McJamweasel BCF Junkie

Joined: 22 Mar 2002 Karma :     
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| MCN |
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 MCN Super Spammer

Joined: 22 Jul 2015 Karma :   
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| Ste |
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 Ste Not Work Safe

Joined: 01 Sep 2002 Karma :    
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 23:35 - 22 Dec 2019 Post subject: |
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| McJamweasel wrote: |
And there's also a reason for the manufacturers torque on their bolt. Engine bolt torque can have have a noticeable effect on handling and stability. |
The torque setting is almost always a function of the cross sectional area and tensile strength of the fastener, not the application it is being used in (the application determines which fastener you should select). So if R&G are using a different grade bolt to the OEM ones, you should go with the setting that came with the bolt.
So a grade 8,8 bolt should be tightened to 80% of it's plastic phase. A 12,9 shoudl be tightened to within 90% of its plastic phase. A 4,6 to 60% (or ideally, thrown in the bin and replaced with a proper one unless there is a good reason for using a stretchy, low-tensile bolt).
This ensures the bolt material is sufficiently stretched to prevent it coming undone but not so stretched it stays that way. There are some exceptions where the metal is deliberately taken into the plastic phase, like some brake disc bolts. These should be replaced once they've been used once. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| daws0n |
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 daws0n Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 03 Jul 2017 Karma :    
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| daws0n |
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 daws0n Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 03 Jul 2017 Karma :    
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 Posted: 09:27 - 23 Dec 2019 Post subject: |
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| Quote: |
 these are no longer solely applied in the OEM application.
You should do as R&G advise:-
https://youtu.be/Ic1NtaoaMxc?t=5m31s
More info on their website according to that video.
Wet/dry torque is different as mentioned, and make sure your torque wrench is working rather than blindly following it until something snaps. |
Thanks for posting the video. Interesting that the technician says to use their bolt torque spec, both the website and fitting instructions simple state a "general torque setting" / "DO NOT EXCEED" value of 40nm for an M10 bolt.
I can't find a any specs for my particular bike, but some one has photographed them for a CB500x
https://www.cb500x.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3756.0;attach=8064;image
The "front engine hanger" bolt is rated at 45nm, I'd image the CB500F threads would be a similar tolerance? |
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| daws0n |
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 daws0n Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 03 Jul 2017 Karma :    
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| Falco |
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 Falco Traffic Copper

Joined: 26 Nov 2015 Karma :  
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 Posted: 14:37 - 24 Dec 2019 Post subject: |
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The torque for the front engine mount bolt is listed as 45Nm for the models up to 2002, so that seems consistent even across the "refresh" that gave the F and X.
They look a lot less faff than the set of crash bars that have been sitting in my shed for the best part of a year. To top it off, I wouldn't even have to cut through the lower engine mount bolt that is siezed absolutely solid  ____________________ I tell you what, mathematically, I'm having it |
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| daws0n |
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 daws0n Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 03 Jul 2017 Karma :    
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 Posted: 15:47 - 24 Dec 2019 Post subject: |
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I bet they seize up good and proper given enough years on the road.
The barrels on the CB500 motor go straight through allowing all manner of irk to get in. I've blast them with ACF50 to try and keep corrosion out.
Said bolts have been torqued up a little more to 35nm and that's me done... My torque wrench was a tidy one when bought (Halfords Professional range) but it's 12 years old now... I don't trust the calibration enough to go right up to 40nm spec. Does the calibration drift with age or use?
I wish this bike wasn't so new and shiny, as admittedly I am faffing more than I usually would... it's an expensive Christmas present to myself and I'd be gutted if I accidentally stripped a thread!!
In another news, rear hugger is on with far less fuss and looking all the better for it Hopefully it will keep a lot of winter crud off the swing arm and suspension. Next up is the radiator guard. |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 6 years, 39 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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