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Fitting R&G Honda CB500 Crash Bungs. Torque or hand tigh

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daws0n
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 03 Jul 2017
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PostPosted: 13:21 - 22 Dec 2019    Post subject: Fitting R&G Honda CB500 Crash Bungs. Torque or hand tigh Reply with quote

Hey guys

Quick question re: torque rating for the engine frame bolts that came with my R&G crash bung kit....

The original honda ones took a fair bit of force to remove, I ended up using a 1/2 wrench to get them to go. The threads are coated in some kind of white locking paste where as the R&G bolts are going on dry. I've fitted the bungs to frame without any problems, but I'm not sure what to do about the torque rating. The instructions state:

"Turn a little more so that you feel the compression increase slightly. Then apply a quarter turn.
Do not over tighten as damage can occur to the bike. Do not exceed 40Nm of torque. "

They "feel" tight enough using a 1/4 wrench, but setting the torque to a conservative 30nm it's not clicking yet. Should I keeping going and apply more pressure?

I doubt they'll vibrate off it a hurry, but given their purpose I figure they need to be on good and proper should the bike hit the floor.


Last edited by daws0n on 09:29 - 23 Dec 2019; edited 2 times in total
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 13:27 - 22 Dec 2019    Post subject: Re: Fitting R&G Honda CB500 Crash Bungs. Torque or hand Reply with quote

daws0n wrote:
Hey guys

Quick question re: torque rating for the engine frame bolts that came with my R&G crash bung kit....

The original honda ones took a fair bit of force to remove, I ended up using 1/2 to get them to go. The threads are coated in some kind of white locking paste where as the R&G bolts are going on dry. I've fitted the bungs to frame without any problems, but I'm not sure what to do about the torque rating. The instructions state:

"Turn a little more so that you feel the compression increase slightly. Then apply a quarter turn.
Do not over tighten as damage can occur to the bike. Do not exceed 40Nm of torque. "

They "feel" tight enough using a 1/4 wrench, but setting the torque to a conservative 30nm it's not clicking yet. Should I keeping going and apply more pressure?

I doubt they'll vibrate off it a hurry, but given their purpose I figure they need to be on good and proper should the bike hit the floor.

Get a torque wrench. Do it up to 39 nm.
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McJamweasel
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Joined: 22 Mar 2002
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PostPosted: 14:20 - 22 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

What does the service manual list the torque as? Engine mounting bolts are pretty important. If they should be more than 40Nm then I'd throw the R&G in the bin and stick the original bolts back in at the proper torque.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 15:56 - 22 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Torque it to the OEM's bolt spec.

ps I don't call them Crash Bungs.
They don't work.

I've never crashed after I've fitted them. Embarassed
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daws0n
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 03 Jul 2017
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PostPosted: 16:06 - 22 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice, I don't have a service manual for the bike (yet) so no other figures to compare to at the moment. The R&G bolts are much longer than the original honda bolts so swapping them around is not an option. Looking at the R&G site further the FAQ states:

Quote:
R&G do not provide these as the use of compression sleeves inside the bobbins enables adequate tightening of the bolts and the bolts will stay secure. For peace of mind use some Loctite or similar. Do not put bodyweight behind tightening as this can damage the bolt and even strip threads in your engine, leading to expensive repair work. In any situation DO NOT exceed 40 Nm of torque. For engine bolts, please consult the owner’s manual as they generally detail torque settings for your machine. You can use the following as a general guide for different bolt sizes.


So 40nm is a "red line" rather than "ideal" figure.... I'll see if I can find a manual online referencing Honda's recommended specs.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:20 - 22 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it feels like it's not getting any tighter and you're not up to torque yet, STOP, back them out and inspect the threads on both the bolt and the thing it's bolting into. This is a sign something is amiss. You may be stripping something.

Also check your wrench is actually clicking by putting it in the vice.

Also make sure there isn't too much oil on the threads, this can lead to massive overtightening.
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Hong Kong Phooey
World Chat Champion



Joined: 30 Apr 2016
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PostPosted: 19:00 - 22 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Torque it to the OEM's bolt spec.

ps I don't call them Crash Bungs.
They don't work.

I've never crashed after I've fitted them. Embarassed


Tut Tut these are no longer solely applied in the OEM application.
You should do as R&G advise:-

https://youtu.be/Ic1NtaoaMxc?t=5m31s

More info on their website according to that video.

Wet/dry torque is different as mentioned, and make sure your torque wrench is working rather than blindly following it until something snaps.
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McJamweasel
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PostPosted: 21:19 - 22 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:

You should do as R&G advise:-


R&G wrote:

...you should follow our torque setting, there's a reason for it...


And there's also a reason for the manufacturers torque on their bolt. Engine bolt torque can have have a noticeable effect on handling and stability.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 22:45 - 22 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
MCN wrote:
Torque it to the OEM's bolt spec.

ps I don't call them Crash Bungs.
They don't work.

I've never crashed after I've fitted them. Embarassed


Tut Tut these are no longer solely applied in the OEM application.
You should do as R&G advise:-

https://youtu.be/Ic1NtaoaMxc?t=5m31s

More info on their website according to that video.

Wet/dry torque is different as mentioned, and make sure your torque wrench is working rather than blindly following it until something snaps.


R&G are OEM of R&G products.
Or not?
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Ste
Not Work Safe



Joined: 01 Sep 2002
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PostPosted: 22:52 - 22 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

What year CB500 is it?
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 23:35 - 22 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

McJamweasel wrote:


And there's also a reason for the manufacturers torque on their bolt. Engine bolt torque can have have a noticeable effect on handling and stability.


The torque setting is almost always a function of the cross sectional area and tensile strength of the fastener, not the application it is being used in (the application determines which fastener you should select). So if R&G are using a different grade bolt to the OEM ones, you should go with the setting that came with the bolt.

So a grade 8,8 bolt should be tightened to 80% of it's plastic phase. A 12,9 shoudl be tightened to within 90% of its plastic phase. A 4,6 to 60% (or ideally, thrown in the bin and replaced with a proper one unless there is a good reason for using a stretchy, low-tensile bolt).

This ensures the bolt material is sufficiently stretched to prevent it coming undone but not so stretched it stays that way. There are some exceptions where the metal is deliberately taken into the plastic phase, like some brake disc bolts. These should be replaced once they've been used once.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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daws0n
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PostPosted: 09:15 - 23 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
What year CB500 is it?


It's a 16 plate CB500F
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daws0n
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 03 Jul 2017
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PostPosted: 09:27 - 23 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

Tut Tut these are no longer solely applied in the OEM application.
You should do as R&G advise:-

https://youtu.be/Ic1NtaoaMxc?t=5m31s

More info on their website according to that video.

Wet/dry torque is different as mentioned, and make sure your torque wrench is working rather than blindly following it until something snaps.


Thanks for posting the video. Interesting that the technician says to use their bolt torque spec, both the website and fitting instructions simple state a "general torque setting" / "DO NOT EXCEED" value of 40nm for an M10 bolt.

I can't find a any specs for my particular bike, but some one has photographed them for a CB500x

https://www.cb500x.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3756.0;attach=8064;image

The "front engine hanger" bolt is rated at 45nm, I'd image the CB500F threads would be a similar tolerance?
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daws0n
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PostPosted: 10:12 - 23 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm ok threads are looking good both sides and bolts in hand tight then fastened with 1/4 wrench. There's a little resistance due to the paste on the old bolts but it's smooth enough.

I've started to re-tighten the bolts using a lower torque rating, taking baby steps from 10-15-20nm etc. Torque wrench is behaving as it should as far as I can tell.

At 30nm it's pretty tight... I can keep going, but I am hearing the fixtures squeek as they compress and the bungs are starting to turn as I tighten. I've stopped at 30nm click on the torque wrench and considering the instruction "Turn a little more so that you feel the compression increase slightly. Then apply a quarter turn." I felt like it's a done job. An email from R&G has come through since stating:

Quote:
We do say it is up to 40nm and no more due to the grade of bolt.


So, rule of thumb is to disregard Manufacturer's spec if higher and only torque up to 40nm.
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Falco
Traffic Copper



Joined: 26 Nov 2015
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PostPosted: 14:37 - 24 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The torque for the front engine mount bolt is listed as 45Nm for the models up to 2002, so that seems consistent even across the "refresh" that gave the F and X.

They look a lot less faff than the set of crash bars that have been sitting in my shed for the best part of a year. To top it off, I wouldn't even have to cut through the lower engine mount bolt that is siezed absolutely solid Thumbs Up
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daws0n
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 03 Jul 2017
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PostPosted: 15:47 - 24 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bet they seize up good and proper given enough years on the road.

The barrels on the CB500 motor go straight through allowing all manner of irk to get in. I've blast them with ACF50 to try and keep corrosion out.

Said bolts have been torqued up a little more to 35nm and that's me done... My torque wrench was a tidy one when bought (Halfords Professional range) but it's 12 years old now... I don't trust the calibration enough to go right up to 40nm spec. Does the calibration drift with age or use?

I wish this bike wasn't so new and shiny, as admittedly I am faffing more than I usually would... it's an expensive Christmas present to myself and I'd be gutted if I accidentally stripped a thread!!

In another news, rear hugger is on with far less fuss and looking all the better for it Smile Hopefully it will keep a lot of winter crud off the swing arm and suspension. Next up is the radiator guard.
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