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Yamaha Tracer 900 GT Fast Charging Phone/Nav

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mission360
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 28 Dec 2019
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PostPosted: 17:05 - 28 Dec 2019    Post subject: Yamaha Tracer 900 GT Fast Charging Phone/Nav Reply with quote

Can anyone please help with the issue I am having?

I have trawled the forums regarding this and want to be able to up the amperage of the 12v accessory socket near the handlebars. At the moment my phone drains quicker than it charges when Nav/comms/music are active. I have read that it struggles to deliver even 1.6 amps.

I purchased an Optimate Usb charger plug that states it will deliver 3.3 amps as long as only one usb socket is used https://www.optimate.co.uk/products/o106-usb-charger-cig-plug

I have disconnected the 12v accessory socket and I have wired in a 30 amp relay with 17amp cable going direct to the 12v accessory socket instead. I have found a switched live to provide switched power etc etc. The relay is doing it's job and providing switched power to the accessory socket, and also a connection directly to the battery to the relay but I am still no better off amperage wise.

Have I misunderstood that this was even possible? I followed the instructions in the link below.

https://www.r1200gs.info/howto/relay.html

Help!!
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WD Forte
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Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 28 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

USB/phone/satnav sockets are all 5V dropped from a 12-14v supply on cars bikes.
and the current they can supply to your gadgets will depend on the internal circuitry
of the USB socket despite what current your 12v supply is capable of.

This means even if you have a 12v supply capable of giving say a steady 20 Amps (240 watts)
the 5V regulation circuit may throttle it to 1.5 or 2 amps ( 10 watts ish ) to protect itself from
over current/over heating.

I haven't had any apart to see how they're built so can only speak in generalities
but their physical size will have an affect how much heat they can handle safely
and they probably have self protection circuitry which limit power out.

All your devices are in effect 'loads'
bigger load = more current = more potential heat

Let's say the socket is rated at 10 watts that's just 2 amps at 5V
so two devices wanting 1.5 amps each will struggle.

That optimate thing sounds too good to be true to me
2 ports giving 5V @ 3.3A each?
A total of 6.6A/33watts?
Hmmmm nahh, I reckon that's total output and would want to test that for myself before believing it.

Those fag lighter plug connectors are convenient but iffy
for electronics, especially on a bike.
I'd want mine hard wired.
It says 5V @ 3.3 amps output on the barrel so that's 1.65A per channel
which sounds more realistic considering its size.
It it was 3.3A per channel, it would say Output 5VDC - 6.6A

here endeth the teffing Laughing
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ZebraDriver
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Joined: 13 Feb 2011
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PostPosted: 19:20 - 28 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

What WDF has said is exactly right. In addition I wouldn't think that the 5v cable/plug and the socket on the phone would be able to handle the kind of current you are needing to feed it with.
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mission360
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PostPosted: 19:21 - 28 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for the response. To be fair, the blurb on the Optimate does state 3.3A using just one port or half that per port. So 3.3a max.
You mention a regulation circuit? Is this built in to the 12v accessory then, as I have created a brand new feed from the battery that would bypass any regulator on the bike itself.
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mission360
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PostPosted: 19:31 - 28 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apologies, but this is rather confusing for someone with limited knowledge. If the phone couldnt handle it, then why can I fast charge (with a higher amperage) with my oem Samsung charger indoors?
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ZebraDriver
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PostPosted: 22:02 - 28 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Optimate plug will self regulate to the 3300ma (3.3 amps) that it is rated at. At 5 volts this will deliver up to 16.5 watts of power.

The circuit you have created on the bike feeding the socket, assuming you have used a 20 amp fuse can supply 240 watts of power. Hence the "restriction" is the USB adaptor.


I wouldn't expect the USB adaptor to be able to sustain the max rated current for any lengthy period of time, many of these types of devices quote a rating that is somewhat optimistic and tends to be based on whatever they managed to achieve as a peak rating during testing.

What is the rating of the oem fast charger that you use in the house?
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Nobby the Bastard
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Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 22:15 - 28 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Isn't one of the criteria for USB 2 amp max power? You'll never get more from a USB socket by definition.


If your phone is dying quicker than it can be charged your phone is fucked.
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ZebraDriver
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 28 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another point to note is the power loss in the 5 volt cable. Many of these cables have a very small cross sectional area, thus they can have a high resistance. Assuming that the resistance of your cable is, say, 1 ohm then you will have a power loss (in the 5 volt cable) of nearly 9 watts when trying to draw 3.3 A through it. Even if the resistance is only 0.5 ohms then you will still lose almost 4.5 watts. Still quite a lot if you only have 16.5 watts to start with.

The higher the cross sectional area of the cable the lower the resistance will be, thus the lower the power loss will be.


Please note I'm guessing at the resistance of the cable - I haven't measured one.
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jimspeed
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Joined: 05 Mar 2010
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PostPosted: 22:56 - 29 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Samsung fast charger is 9v I believe, at least mine says 9v/5v on it somewhere. I'm not sure if you can get a 12v fast charge adaptor plug tho ?
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 11:48 - 30 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Isn't one of the criteria for USB 2 amp max power? You'll never get more from a USB socket by definition.


If your phone is dying quicker than it can be charged your phone is fucked.


It was 2.4A for USB 2.0.
(I believe, this is all off the top of my head, CBA looking it up)

USB 3 and 3.1 had higher limits, about 3.5A IIRC. USB C uses a higher voltage (and hence a lower amperage) with voltage conversion back to 5v on the device itself. Pretty sure USB C can negotiate up to about 100W.

If you're using a USB 2 device on a USB 3 port, it will still only work as a USB 2 device, this includes current draw etc. Same with using a USB C device on a USB 2 port, although they'll work to a point, you're limited by whatever is the lowest common denominator.
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