Dealing with the DT

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Rebuilt the seat/helmet lock:

https://i.imgur.com/k7UBav6.jpg?1

Haven't seen one of these turn up yet on eBay etc. so a bought a cheap copy of the ignition with the intention of stealing the barrel. That didn't work as the tab at the bottom is at a different angle. Bah! Okay so I'll just steal the levers. Nope! The copy is a mirror image (key-wise) of the seat lock I got my local key cutter to hack something off this mirror and then put it back together with the new lock's levers. Needed some small adjustments with a file but now you only need to jiggle the key occasionally to get it to turn

Rebuilt the forks:

https://i.imgur.com/3ywxsyM.jpg?1

Pretty straightforward considering this guy basically has the same bike:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZEAPFhdjaW0

My tips are: pay careful attention to the damper rod assembly order

Things I have realised...

Yamaha DT forks have quite some variance across engine sizes and years. From what I've seen the fork bottoms are similar - a 30mm DT125 fork bottom from one year is probably interchangeable with 30mm DT175 from a another year. The same might not be said about stanchions and dampers, I've seen a good few variations. What I'm saying is: don't lose any bits as you'll not likely find individual parts

Having said that oil seals and dust caps seem easy enough to get hold of and that's the main thing

Oh yeah, the silver paint! The tops of the stanchions are fucked but hidden behind the headlamp brackets so unimportant. I might get them rechromed at some point though.
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

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Oh yeah, no longer pissing out oil when compressed
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Sister Sledge]

I did wonder what that upper silver colour was - looks like sandblasted!
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CCM 404 DS

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I got up at the crack of midday to work on the bike...

https://i.imgur.com/MMxGThV.jpg?1

Threw the handlebars on and realised nothing was straight so went round loosening everything up and took well over an hour to sort it out. Mainly as a friend came round and started regaling me of tales of his Bonneville

Got the clutch and brake levers at the angle I like - the cheap seat doing a fine job - and then hooked up both cables. I dunno about you but I instinctively grab the front brake on a bike (even without an engine!) and it's a source of comfort to get it working if a little unnecessary at this stage.

Time for a relaxing cup of tea and squinting at cable routing diagrams.
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[WD Forte]

I know bugger all about DTs but the cylinder appears to be in contact with the frame downtube.
Is it supposed to be like that?
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bikers smell of wee

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[stinkwheel]

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Started routing the cables:

https://i.imgur.com/LMAuBpb.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/KB4jROf.jpg?1

Not quite happy with it but then I can't say I think much of the original layout.

So I have tacho, speedo, clutch, brakes all in:

https://i.imgur.com/oRbBYOc.jpg?1

Had some fun and games getting the throttle hooked up but mostly a case of stupidity

https://i.imgur.com/9FdPnSq.jpg?1

I've left a lot of pipes hanging out for testing. Fresh oil added to the gearbox.

https://i.imgur.com/yPcbBT6.jpg?1

Problems? I'm glad you asked...

I think I had about three attempts at routing the cables and wiring. The main thing I focused on is not getting things like the brake, clutch and throttle trapped on full lock. Wiring doesn't have quite the same issue but it does need to avoid hot areas where possible.

Of course I tested for spark at the earliest opportunity... yes, there is spark but only when the ignition is off I had to strip the switch out and reverse the internals. Glad I took the time to map out the original switch's function now

"Didn't you sort the ignition out way, way back?" Well yes, but I missed the fact the original had ~30cm of wire and the copy had ~10cm so I did a bit of a mash up. Badly as it turns out.

Anyhoo, all good now; if the weather's okay tomorrow I might get it started up
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Sister Sledge]

Wide bars can be a pain with cables as you've discovered!
If you hurry up you might have it road legal for when the snow comes..
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CCM 404 DS

[piazza]

Bleed that 2 stroke pump

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[WD Forte]

[Easy-X]

Good point

The carb drain is a clear pipe (so it can double as a float height checker.) Maybe replace the pump to carb pipe with an oil resistant clear one?
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[WD Forte]

If using clear pipe
you could experiment with an Led and say LDR or photodiode to
measure light transmitted across the pipe with and without oil in it.
Air bubbles or lack of oil in the pipe could cause enough of a variation to measure and use as a warning signal once you determine a threshhold.

<thinks>
Naah scratch that, if it had oil sitting there not moving, that would lull you into a false sense of security until yer motor seized.
A micro flow meter may be a better option or regular checking and testing.

summat like this

https://www.dhresource.com/0x0s/f2-albu-g10-M00-3A-D3-rBVaWV3Uk52AELIrAAMWDoVIGk8541.jpg/usn-hs06pa-1l-bajo-consumo-de-6-mm-para-manguera-de-agua-sensor-de-flujo-0.15-1.5l-/-min-para-beber-calentador-de-agua-caliente-machin-m%C3%A1quina-de-caf%C3%A9.jpg
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bikers smell of wee

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Rigged up a temporary tank:

https://i.imgur.com/BZUyVxZ.jpg?1

Premix fuel plus some oil in automix tank to see if the pump works...

Bled the system fine. Took a fair few kicks to get the engine going again but then I had dripped a little extra 2-stroke oil in the cylinder just to be on the safe side

So far I've got it idling consistently with the choke on but as there's effectively an air leak where the oil feed should come into the carb I didn't get seriously into it.

Regarding the oil pump. It initially spluttered out a little oil but then stopped. I'll probably take a quick look at it (easy to take off and dismantle without popping the whole case side off) before weighing up blanking it off - annoying as I have to dump all the gearbox oil I just put in
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[WD Forte]

Be interested to see how they work
I'll guess it will be a LPLV rotor type thing with a metering valve
that opens up with the throttle.
Maybe it's more sophisticated than that, dunno

EDIT:
It is, found this
A load of balls pistons plungers and valves
https://dansmc.com/oil_pump2stroke1.JPG
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bikers smell of wee

[WD Forte]

looks to be a good write up them here

https://www.motorcycleclassics.com/mc-how-to/yamaha-autolube-zmmz16jazhur
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bikers smell of wee

[Easy-X]

Great link! Many thanks
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[stinkwheel]

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[A100man]

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Day 1 of "Operation: Haven't You Fecking Finished This Yet?"

I'll start off with a shocking revelation:

Sometimes, just sometimes Chinese carb copies aren't worth a w*nk

I know that might kick off a riot but there, I've said it now!

It did work, briefly, and then it just decided to stop working. And then it decided to start pissing fuel from the overflow - completely spontaneously - and, after some pissing about with it, I did the sensible thing and gave up and put the old one on. Yes, it's a bit beat up but at least I knew it did work.

Or so I thought.

After the bowl filled it took 2 kicks to start. (First I forgot the choke.) I let it sit while I looked for a socket extension for the exhaust nuts (more on that later.) And then it started revving like f*ck! Eeeeek! Thankfully the kill switch was wired Kicked over again and just the slightest touch of throttle sounded like a Space X test flight... not one of the good ones

"WTF is going on here? Massive air-leak?" No, always K.I.S.S.

I tried again but this time with a hand ready over the airbox snorkel. Yup, start blocking it and the engine dies. So far so good. Touch of revs to start it off and starving it of air calmed things down. "Feck! There's a surprising amount of suction..." Hmm

With the engine off I checked the carb slide was moving freely. "No problems there... hang on a moment!"

The carb spring on the left is the original and the one on the right is from the new (but rubbish) copy:

https://i.imgur.com/J1KZCxd.jpg?1

Compress the new one and you'll send it pinging across the garden. The old one, not so much

Yes, folks, just that simple! The engine catches and the suction holds the carb slide open spontaneously. Swapped in the better spring and normal service was resumed:

https://img.youtube.com/vi/8fkdIMI4qB8/0.jpg
https://youtu.be/8fkdIMI4qB8

With the engine running calmly again I could look at the exhaust leak. I went with "finger tight + half turn" and then "quarter turn till the leak disappears" classic but it works

https://img.youtube.com/vi/v7gyo8pd-Jo/0.jpg
https://youtu.be/v7gyo8pd-Jo

Exhaust sorted but what about the oil pump? I pissed about some more:

https://img.youtube.com/vi/VVLySH6mAwI/0.jpg
https://youtu.be/VVLySH6mAwI

So it does seem to work. Doesn't seem very dramatic though I know two revelations in one post might be a bit much but... I have no idea what I'm doing here

Is a dribble on full throttle and barely a drip on idle the right amount?

Other than that I've spent the last few evenings squinting at the circuit diagram. The right one this time! Only the 1G1 specific diagram in the Haynes manual is 100% correct - there are slight variations (unsurprisingly) between the years but also between markets (US vs Europe.)

Anyhoo, I realised the connectors for the indicators I so carefully repaired need to be double bullet sockets:

https://i.imgur.com/tLn5o3h.jpg?1

Fingers crossed for the weather tomorrow for Part 2.

<addendum> Oh yeah, the tacho was off 'cos it didn't seem to do anything. I have the old tacho cable kicking about so I'm going to test it, off the bike, with the old "electric drill" trick
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[stinkwheel]

Used to check the operation of some oil pumps by counting drips with them set to a certain position. It would ba a drip every so many seconds.

Remember, it's probably delivering somewhere in the ball-park of 40:1 oil to fuel so roughly 1ml for every float-bowl full.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

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