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[CAR] Radiator Fans issue - im stuck! (SOLVED)

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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 15:12 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: [CAR] Radiator Fans issue - im stuck! (SOLVED) Reply with quote

Afternoon all,

Opening this up to the world of BCF as I have exhausted everything I can think of.

Car: Honda Civic 57 plate petrol 1.8
Problem : Overheating
Cause : Radiator fan and AC fan not kicking in when up to temp

Stuff tried so far:

1) replaced ECT2 sensor
2) replaced both relays
3) Fans kick in when I complete the circuit from the relay to ground
4) Fuses ok in engine bay
5) Fuses ok in cockpit

Based on the above - I have figured that it was the ECT2 sensor causing the problem, but when I've replaced that, and it still doesnt work - im stumped!

I'm left with two options:

1) Blocked coolant pipes causing no heated coolant to get to the sensor to trigger it
2) Electric issue / damaged wires / etc in the cabling to the ECT sensor

If anyone has any advice on how likely the above is - or if there is another simpler thing to test first, please let me know! Im not working on it again until the weekend, so just getting stuff together now.

Thanks!
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Last edited by Hawkeye1250FA on 20:17 - 08 Feb 2020; edited 1 time in total
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 15:35 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

What sort of situations is the overheating happening? Just stationary in traffic or even when you're moving and getting natural airflow?

Things I find helpful to check: get a Bluetooth/WiFi OBDC dongle and you can plot the temperature sensor(s) on a nice graph in the Torque app. Also, when up to temp, whack on your heater. The heater matrix is like a tiny rad that dumps some of the heat from the water system so getting no heating hints at an airlock. It's also interesting to see if turning on the heater (fan on max) makes any odds to the coolant temp.

If you're okay with auto electrics you could rig up a temporary switch and, coupled with a monitoring app, switch on the fan as you see fit. Not practical but it might help to decide whether it's a coolant flow issue or actually a coolant monitoring issue.
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 16:08 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
What sort of situations is the overheating happening? Just stationary in traffic or even when you're moving and getting natural airflow?

Things I find helpful to check: get a Bluetooth/WiFi OBDC dongle and you can plot the temperature sensor(s) on a nice graph in the Torque app. Also, when up to temp, whack on your heater. The heater matrix is like a tiny rad that dumps some of the heat from the water system so getting no heating hints at an airlock. It's also interesting to see if turning on the heater (fan on max) makes any odds to the coolant temp.

If you're okay with auto electrics you could rig up a temporary switch and, coupled with a monitoring app, switch on the fan as you see fit. Not practical but it might help to decide whether it's a coolant flow issue or actually a coolant monitoring issue.


Overheats in all situations, but takes longer if I keep the revs at idling speed. But eventually gets to the red.

Toyed with a switch but it's annoying because all the individual elements work correctly.

I'll try the heater thing later, the heaters do definitely work, but I've not checked if they cool the engine down.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 16:20 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://honda-tech.com/how-tos/a/honda-why-wont-my-my-radiator-fan-work-377261
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 16:44 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
https://honda-tech.com/how-tos/a/honda-why-wont-my-my-radiator-fan-work-377261


Yeah, already done all that. It's the "non-obvious" issues I need now. 👍
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

thermostat fitted wrong way round..
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 17:43 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Copycat73 wrote:
thermostat fitted wrong way round..


Thermostat as in ect sensor?

🤔

I'd normally say no chance, but at this point I'm willing to try anything! I'll get back under the car on Saturday and check.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

What tells you it is overheating???????
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
What tells you it is overheating???????


The temperature gauge
The smell of burning
The heat from the engine when I open it

🤣

Also if I let it overheat and then stop somewhere, it then won't start until it's cooled down.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 18:03 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

How many wires to the sensor? Can you bypass it?
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 18:44 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
How many wires to the sensor? Can you bypass it?


2 wires, Ive shorted it out to prove it was the sensor (prior to buying and fitting the new sensor) and it didnt run the fans, so bought new sensor and fitted.

Now when i short it, it STILL doesnt run the fans!

Hence me moving on to the relays etc.

This weekends task is to :

- Check that supplying voltage to the relay does actually run the fans which should then prove that the issue is on the sensor side of things.

- Once proved, I cant think of any easy way to do the testing other than dive in with my multimeter and trace the wires from the fusebox to the sensor Sad

I do have a switch ready to go for a "fudge" to mount on the dash - which will just send power to the relay (assuming the above test works).

tbh Id rather that - than crawl around for hours testing which cable is broken! Sad
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 18:53 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

If he shorted out the switch (disconnect ting it and using a it of metal to the two ends of the wires) doesn't switch the fan on it's not the sensor.
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 18:56 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
If he shorted out the switch (disconnect ting it and using a it of metal to the two ends of the wires) doesn't switch the fan on it's not the sensor.


Good point Smile

Well I have a new sensor anyway Smile
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 18:58 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

There should be a trigger wire from the control unit (this could be the sensor or it could be the ecu.)

Is there a.voltage there when the engine is hot?

The other positive on the relay will always be live when the ignition is on.
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 19:01 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
There should be a trigger wire from the control unit (this could be the sensor or it could be the ecu.)

Is there a.voltage there when the engine is hot?

The other positive on the relay will always be live when the ignition is on.


The trigger wire does go from the sensor to energise the relay - My multimeter wire snapped last week so im waiting for the new one to arrive this week. Will test it and see.

Its a proper pain in the arse to get to because its under the radiator. Sad
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Energise the relay by providing 12 from the battery directly to the trigger with the ignition on.

If it's easier, apply the voltage to the sensor end of the trigger wire.
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 19:09 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Energise the relay by providing 12 from the battery directly to the trigger with the ignition on.

If it's easier, apply the voltage to the sensor end of the trigger wire.


Cool - will test that.

The sensor is the twat to get to - i need to take the bottom pan off the car to get to it. Thats why ive been putting it off Smile

Looks like i need to though. Sad
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 21:58 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not an iffy thermostat is it?
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 00:01 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

"""""""Overheats in all situations, but takes longer if I keep the revs at idling speed. But eventually gets to the red."""""

If it overheats on the move then a fan won`t make any difference.

Can air get to the rad?
Is the rad front full of crap?
Is the top hose hot first and then the rad and then the bottom hose warm last?
Any bleed valves? (air pockets)
Does the engine perform ok from cold and when heating up (thinking of a weak mixture).?
You may have to remove top & bottom hoses to check engine & rad circulation,( get the hose pipe out).
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 00:08 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

have you tried turning it off and back on again?
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 07:25 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
"""""""Overheats in all situations, but takes longer if I keep the revs at idling speed. But eventually gets to the red."""""

If it overheats on the move then a fan won`t make any difference.

Can air get to the rad?
Is the rad front full of crap?
Is the top hose hot first and then the rad and then the bottom hose warm last?
Any bleed valves? (air pockets)
Does the engine perform ok from cold and when heating up (thinking of a weak mixture).?
You may have to remove top & bottom hoses to check engine & rad circulation,( get the hose pipe out).


The bold bit. Radiators work by air flow. If normal driving on a free flowing road overheats the engine then you have a bigger problem than a sensor.
Faulty thermostat, air locks, faulty water pump, blown head gasket will all show overheating on normal driving cycles.
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 08:43 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok Thanks gents,

Are you confident in that statement across all car makes and models? Ive purposely overheated the engine and then shorted the fan to run - which then brought the temps back down.

Top hose gets hot first - then lower hoses, although thinking about it, I didnt spend much time on that - so Ill re-investigate that - a blockage could be the culprit.

Dont know of any bleed valves, the only valve I know is the coolant drain under the engine which id imagine wont do the job Sad

Can you expand on the hosepipe test for me? Not done that before but sounds fun Smile
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 08:49 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the fan is cooling it down then that's airflow through the radiator. The coolant system is doing its job.

I'm inclined to think it's actually the relay.

Is it a normal 4 prong one? For the sake of 6 quid theres an easy test....

https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=10151&langId=-1&categoryId=310504&productId=756415&storeId=10001
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 08:51 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
If the fan is cooling it down then that's airflow through the radiator. The coolant system is doing its job.

I'm inclined to think it's actually the relay.

Is it a normal 4 prong one? For the sake of 6 quid theres an easy test....

https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=10151&langId=-1&categoryId=310504&productId=756415&storeId=10001


Yeah standard 4 prong - theres 2.

1 for the rad fans and 1 for the air con fan

Ive swapped them (no difference) and ended up replacing both with brand new ones.
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 08:52 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another thing to note is the air con fan never kicks in either, which is why im being mentally led down the dodgy elecrics route.
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