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The Bogging Gremlin - Hyosung GT125R

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Devoid
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 27 Feb 2020
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PostPosted: 10:49 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: The Bogging Gremlin - Hyosung GT125R Reply with quote

Intro

Frustrating problem which sucks the enjoyment out of riding a bike and make me anxious to get on it from fear of getting a car ram me up the ass.
Had this bike in the past had no issues with it loved it so I brought it again after my KTM was giving my jip. Before this issue my Hyosung felt and rode a lot better than my KTM.

The Gremlin

Problem is my Hyosung GT125R has started to run crap, bogging down when pulling away from standing at a traffic light so much so that I need to rev the bollocks out of it to pull away.
Bogging down also affects the bike intermittently when traveling at speed it will pull back and also start bogging down, I have to drop a gear and again rev the bollocks out of the bike to get the revs back up to accelerate.
On some occasion the bogging is that bad I have to pull over(roll actually, maybe even use my foot to push) then play with the throttle (attempt to rev the bollocks out of it) until the bike wakes up again and can continue for a little bit longer before bogging down again.

Then on some occasions the bike seems to run fine with maybe 1 or 2 bouts of slight bogging.
Below is a brief summary of what I remember the mechanic said he did

Mechanic

Cleaned out carbs, re-jet, replaced spark plug cap and plugs, fuel lines checked, all unnecessary electrical mods i.e. led lights disconnected(for troubleshooting, still disconnected now), electrical cables checked, Vaseline applied to particular areas where risk to weathering exists. Exhaust checked for obstruction, throttle tuned, and manual choke cleaned/tuned, cleaned bike. I think that’s everything he said he tried that was in response to the bogging down. £300 that cost several days of work.
He also replaced regular parts during service i.e. brake pads.

Interlude

A week later the bike has started bogging down again, it ran perfect for the previous week after the service, however the mechanic did say it seems to be working now but I have no idea what was really causing it.

Present day

Issue remains and I’ve got to a point where I with little mechanical knowledge plan to investigate this myself with the help of random internet folk, fecking you tube and many other sources such as forums etc.

Requesting help

If anyone has some suggestions of what could be causing this or where I should look, your assistance would be gratefully received.
Please explain the reasons of your suggestions so I can learn rather than blindly following the help so that I may have some understanding of what is going on, like I said I have little knowledge and a base understanding of the workings but more in-depth troubleshooting may be a little more difficult. I play to “dry dock” the bike to work on it in-between working which sucks as I use the bike to get to work so the wife isn’t going to be happy driving me to work 3 days a week.

Information and materials

I have the usual home tools for a bike owner with the extra bonus tool, an impact wrench which I don’t see the need to use with this issue.

High quality pictures and videos of the bike and its guts can be posted on request to aid in the trouble shooting.
Any questions please ask I will do my best to answer and fill gaps.
If something is suggested that has already been tried I will let you know but just because it’s been tried doesn’t mean it’s been done the way you’re thinking so make it a step by step how too if possible.

Finally

Thank you so much for all who add their input I will endeavor to stay in contact here at regular intervals during the battle, family and work. I will post the final solution once it has been identified for others that may run into this issue.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 11:37 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

It could be the coil breaking down but then it wouldn't work well until left off long enough to cool.
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Devoid
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 27 Feb 2020
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PostPosted: 11:43 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
It could be the coil breaking down but then it wouldn't work well until left off long enough to cool.


That's what i forgot mechanic also checked the ignition coil it was full of crap so he cleaned it out.

the bike worked well for a week but now its started messing up again. possible crap in there again in a week that would cause this issue?
he said he was going to replace but apparently the new coil he got wouldn't fit?

However the front spark plug cap has been changed as this now looks different to my previous stock plug cap.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



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PostPosted: 11:51 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Devoid wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
It could be the coil breaking down but then it wouldn't work well until left off long enough to cool.


That's what i forgot mechanic also checked the ignition coil it was full of crap so he cleaned it out. .


Cleaned out the ignition coil? Someone is telling porkies because they are sealed units (unless very high end) and to clean one out your have to break it apart.

I'm calling sock.
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Devoid
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PostPosted: 11:54 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Cleaned out the ignition coil? Someone is telling porkies because they are sealed units (unless very high end) and to clean one out your have to break it apart.

I'm calling sock.


Just googled ignition coil yes its sealed so I imagine he actually meant the place the key goes in, that will be my poor memory. as at the time i was just excited to have the bike working again. But as it turns out it doesn't.

Looking at the bike it would appear he has changed the ignition coil as its different to what I had before. And he perhaps meant he could change the key slot.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 12:06 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

In that case, as it's not related to speed etc. I suggest the carb valve is sticking.
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Devoid
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PostPosted: 12:08 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
In that case, as it's not related to speed etc. I suggest the carb valve is sticking.


Please explain Thumbs Up
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



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PostPosted: 12:13 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Devoid wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
In that case, as it's not related to speed etc. I suggest the carb valve is sticking.


Please explain Thumbs Up


Theres a valve in the carb attached to a float that stops it from over filling.

Think ball valve in a toilet. Exactly the same.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 12:18 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The side-stand switch can become corroded and cause an intermittent fault

I disconnected mine and added a loop, intermittent fault cured Thumbs Up .

Might be worth having a look there?
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Devoid
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PostPosted: 12:21 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Please explain Thumbs Up

Theres a valve in the carb attached to a float that stops it from over filling.

Think ball valve in a toilet. Exactly the same.


Do you have a link to a picture so i can identify this.

I may be totally wrong but does it look like a needle with a metal cylinder and a spring to maintain its position ?

And what would the remedy be
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Devoid
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PostPosted: 12:23 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
The side-stand switch can become corroded and cause an intermittent fault

I disconnected mine and added a loop, intermittent fault cured Thumbs Up .

Might be worth having a look there?


That was the first attempt to fix this issue. The mechanic had that safety feature disabled at my request but the problem persisted.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 12:31 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Devoid wrote:


And what would the remedy be?


Find out why it's doing it and use this information to fix it.
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Riejufixing
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Joined: 24 Jun 2018
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PostPosted: 12:51 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: Re: The Bogging Gremlin - Hyosung GT125R Reply with quote

Devoid wrote:
Problem is my Hyosung GT125R has started to run crap, bogging down when pulling away from standing at a traffic light so much so that I need to rev the bollocks out of it to pull away.
Bogging down also affects the bike intermittently when traveling at speed it will pull back and also start bogging down, I have to drop a gear and again rev the bollocks out of the bike to get the revs back up to accelerate.


Issue remains and I’ve got to a point where I with little mechanical knowledge plan to investigate this myself with the help of random internet folk, fecking you tube and many other sources such as forums etc.

Oh, a challenge!

Returning to your OP and diagnostics. Would you say that when this happens, it revs freely (i.e. if you pull in the clutch lever), but there is no power, OR that when this happens it does not rev freely and there is no power?

Is it possible to safely video this happening, e.g. put your 'phone somewhere it's safe and you won't need to touch it,and set it recording?
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



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PostPosted: 13:25 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm gonna go out on a limb and blame the chain tension.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see no mention of valve clearance check.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 15:05 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
It could be the coil breaking down but then it wouldn't work well until left off long enough to cool.


I’ve had this ^before on my old Suzuki GT250 , it was a Devil to trace.
As it was intermittent, the fault would come and go making it a real pig to find out what the problem was.

I’d already put new plugs & points & condenser & plug caps in.
Then it occurred to me that the issue was happening once the bike was getting warmed up/hot/been running for a while.

Mr Nobby could be onto something here, possibly, maybe???

Did you replace the plugs? Hmmm? I’ve had them slowly break down as well.
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P.
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

What year model is it.
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martin734
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PostPosted: 19:07 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you checked all of the vacuum hoses to the carbs? These can sometimes fail and leak. It may also be worth checking the vacuum fuel tap.
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 19:51 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Firstly feel your boobs.
No reason except that I'm a pervert.

Sounds like either coil or fueling issue. The coil is quite cheap and if you can replace that first we can eliminate it.

Fueling: Does anyone have an exploded diagram of the carb please?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:55 - 27 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

He already said it's been replaced.

Always assuming that he knows what it looks like. The mechanic could have put a different brake lever on for all he knows.
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



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PostPosted: 05:08 - 28 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Intermittent or randomly occurring problems are always a bast to trace, cos you never know when they are gboing to occur, or if something you have 'fixed', was actually the problem to start with.... that's the nature of the game... good luck.

First bit of normal diagnostics though is a plug-chop. Look in the Heynes manual, usually at the back, and there's usually a photo chart showing what bad spark plugs look like for you you to compare yours too.... when you pull it out and if when you pull it out the problem was happening...

But, to this end, stick a spark-plug spanner in your pocket or in the gap twixt seat and tank... possibly a pair of pliers or a cotton rag too cos spark plugs tend to be hot when removed from a hot engine... and watch your fingers... go ride the bike 'till symptoms occur, haul in the clutch, coast to a halt and pull plug(s) and coimpare to piccies.

IF plugs black and sooty, you are over fueling. Usually implies that the choke is stuck on, and or you are burning oil 'cos valve stame seals or piston rings are worn out.

If white and maybe knobly, tends top mean that the engine's running weak, like it's run out or petrol, indicating that the jets are blosked and or your float needle is sticking in it's guide.... that, at the mo is a top candidate, as it wont always stick...

But this is first resort checking.. and an excuse to just ride around a bit...

Go try, report back on plug colour...
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stevo123
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PostPosted: 11:45 - 28 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

My bet is water in the fuel form a leaky filler cap.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 12:48 - 28 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevo123 wrote:
My bet is water in the fuel form a leaky filler cap.


Agreed - beat me too it. Properly drain the fuel tank into a transparent vessel. Any water will be at the bottom.
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Devoid
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PostPosted: 13:33 - 28 Feb 2020    Post subject: Re: The Bogging Gremlin - Hyosung GT125R Reply with quote

Quote:
Issue remains and I’ve got to a point where I with little mechanical knowledge plan to investigate this myself with the help of random internet folk, fecking you tube and many other sources such as forums etc.
Oh, a challenge!

Returning to your OP and diagnostics. Would you say that when this happens, it revs freely (i.e. if you pull in the clutch lever), but there is no power, OR that when this happens it does not rev freely and there is no power?

Is it possible to safely video this happening, e.g. put your 'phone somewhere it's safe and you won't need to touch it,and set it recording?


It happens with the clutch pulled and without I.e when riding. I will attempt to video with gopro
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