Clutch not disengaging (ER-6F)

[Eki]

So, short story long. Last year I planned to ride up north to my brothers for Xmas, I'd fixed my bike with lots of swearing, blood and more swearing (head races, then ignition switch). Riding my bike to Asda it kept losing power, rev up and it was really struggling to get anywhere before it conked out.

Managed to drive her home, really slowly, and the engine oil was a lovely chocolate milk colour, so I figured head gasket. Of course, the thing I should have thought was "check with BCF in case it's something simpler".

So I ordered all the parts I needed and then more parts because the coils for the 06 ER-6's are rubbish (switched for nice Mitsubishi ones which work), after much more swearing, blood and snapped bolts (even using a torque wrench) I got the bike back together.

It works, she starts and runs and I've solved the coolant in engine oil problem (probably by luck) but now my clutch won't disengage the engine from the wheel. I put it into 1st, pull the clutch and the wheel is locked (it rotates as free as a bike that's been left over winter can rotate, must do brakes, when in neutral).

I've taken the clutch panel off and ensured it's hooked correctly to the pully outty thingy so it is pulling on the..... thing, it's just not disengaging the engine.

I have warmed up the engine previously (radiator flush after head gasket) so it's probably not that it needs heating up. I didn't really touch any clutch parts doing the head gasket, only took the side panel off for the plastic bit that goes up the chain bit, and to clean out all the white goo.

So any suggestions on what can be preventing my clutch from working? I have adjusted it at the handlebar, it does pull the actuator, I didn't touch the adjusters near the actuator.

[Riejufixing]

[Eki]

Is there a way to check the actuator arm is correctly pulling on the pully thingy? I've gone through 5 litres of fully synth so far, so as you can imagine I'm slightly wary of another oil change, mainly because I'd need to buy another 5 litres of oil, and a new clutch gasket.

[Riejufixing]

[doggone]

You might try to free the plates by deliberately making it slip say in 3rd or 4th gear until it stalls, if it doesn't work after 2 or 3 tries don't push your luck.
Actually getting into a higher gear will be the issue but you might do it with wheel off the ground (then brake).

[kgm]

If it's fresh oil thats in it, why not just drain it and then use the same oil when you refill?

[Nobby the Bastard]

You don't generally have to drain the oil to remove the clutch side casing if you leave it on the side stand.

The clutch shouldn't sit in an oil bath.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Easy-X]

Would the old trick of clamping the clutch lever overnight work?
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[sickpup]

[andym]

Not that I know anything about anything, I'm probably drunk, stoned or high (at 8:09am), but I'd have thought the bike would need to sit for a very long time (couple of years at least), for the clutch plates to stick together.

[Polarbear]

[sickpup]

[Polarbear]

[sickpup]

[Easy-X]

[Bhud]

You could put the bike on its sidestand to save the oil, then remove the clutch side cover (try to save the clutch cover gasket if you can), and then remove the clutch plates individually. Give them a soak in oil for a couple of hours, then refit.

[Eki]

My thinking about the clutch plates, because of the head gasket there exists this yucky white gunk, you can see it in the clutch cover when you pull it off, and as the entire engine wasn't pulled apart there existed old "bad" oil.

Once the engine was rebuilt and a new filter/oil inserted, it was warmed up and drained, this oil being heavily contaminated with the original yucky oil. So even though I changed that oil, the complete oil is not "pure", so draining and refilling it is refilling it with contaminated oil (I'll hopefully burn it off once I can ride my machine).

But yes, I believe the reason it's stuck is most likely due to the white gunky stuff acting as some sort of glue on the plates rather than being something super bad like a ton of rust.

--edit

Turns out I was over thinking things, my bike was on an Abba stand and I couldn't move the wheel by hand with clutch pulled in. Putting it on the ground and a push was more than enough.

However my original problem remains. Got on her and a tiny ride, if I give it a rev to around 6k+ it struggles before going "nope", I thought that was a symptom of the head gasket being blown so I'm pretty much back to where I was before xmas.

[MCN]

Fill it with the correct oil.
Then let it run for a while to stir the fresh oil around the clutch pack.

But is it is sticking it's probably the coolant mixed with oil that has gummed up the splines and goo-ed the plate surfaces together.

It may be a case of opening the clutch and spraying brake cleaner everywhere to try to un gum the bitch/es.

Another old trick is to go down the pub and get drunk with your mates and fcuk the bike.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[sickpup]

[Riejufixing]

[ThatDippyTwat]

[Eki]

[sickpup]

[Eki]

[Nobby the Bastard]

Aftermarket air filter wouldn't require the disconnection of the lambda sensor.

Has it decided to jump into limp home mode cause of the disconnected lambda sensor? Does it even have limp home?
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050