Resend my activation email : Register : Log in 
BCF: Bike Chat Forums


Frame spray paint - no Powder coating available

Reply to topic
Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop
View previous topic : View next topic  
Author Message

09dudharb
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 23 Apr 2020
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:01 - 23 Apr 2020    Post subject: Frame spray paint - no Powder coating available Reply with quote

Hi all,

Any recommendations for primer, paint and lacquer? And tips for application and number of coats?

Stripped my gs500 down to bare frame and rebuilt the entire thing but want to paint the frame before reassembly... Due to Corona crisis powder coating is not an option.

Because there was such a bad paint job done before I've had to use some power tools to clean it off which has bought it down to bare metal. Not what I was going for but my tools were a little rough 😬

I used tetrosyl paint on the fork but knocked them and scratched the paint off very easily... Was this the paint or not enough coats? I have 4, more cans of the stuff so would be good if I could use that but want the best I can get short of powder coating.

Many thanks in advance
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:28 - 23 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used Alkyd resin paint on my enfield frame recently. Sticks like shit to a blanket. Would use again.

It's effectively old fashioned machine enamel. Mostly used for farm machinery and painting skips these days (how much tougher do you want?).

Old brit bikes in the 1940's and 50's used to have their frames dipped in this stuff, most of them are still on their original paint.

Apply direct to metal. I was going to brush paint mine but it was a bit thick so I put it through the spray gun instead. It dries quick but I'd give it a week to cure (it's a resin, they chemically cure after drying) before fitting engines and stuff so it hardens properly.

Tractol 329 is one brand of alkyd resin machine enamel available in aerosols. It'll give you a tough and tidy finish quite easily with minimal faffing about using multiple coatings.

Some paint sold as machine enamel is polyurethane. This is also tough but it's not the same stuff.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/V44j6Rx2jZKtv3NY3enr3jlR7eRBsTR1fYmP_HXxkt9N8FudzhHMp4tEM2PVcQy1x_Nr38ca60A6T2mBG_wK017Ou3vls82BglYHVJMiP3xrBDdUe8UJns339j2x0E1LTUs5TmyRCw=w1155-h866-no

That said, if you want a very high quality finish, you're probably going to want 2k paint over a zinc primer. Respirator essential! (not face mask, and they are the type of P3 respirator the NHS is using for covid so if you don't already have one...)

However I would say it's a GS500 here. They came out of the factory with a single optimistic spray-over with something cheap and porous. Anything you use will be better than what it came with.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Riejufixing
World Chat Champion



Joined: 24 Jun 2018
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:18 - 23 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dulux Trade High Gloss is an excellent paint. Not too hard or soft, alkyd, easy to use.

Edit: Yes, respirator, Screwfix, when again available, if you're going to spray it.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

spottedtango
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 04 Dec 2015
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:40 - 24 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’ve used spray can Hammerite on a few bikes with good success. You need to have a dry day, dust free area and done all your prep first

also if you can heat the frame up with a heat gun it allows the paint to cure faster reducing the amount of dust that gets stuck to it.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Easy-X
Super Spammer



Joined: 08 Mar 2019
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:53 - 24 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check and treat any rust spots (if it's a steel frame) be a shame for something to bubble through years later if an hour's work now would sort it.
____________________
Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

09dudharb
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 23 Apr 2020
Karma :

PostPosted: 13:48 - 09 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi all!

Thanks for the replies!

Ive gone for Zinc primer, a few layers then let cure for 24h. On with the tractol329... Did it a few days ago and looks good but want to leave it for a week to cure properly.

My next question is... I used 2 400ml spray cans of tractol but feel like that might not be enough, was only 2 coats... thoughts? I have more on the way so not an issue to do more.

Also, do I lacquer or no? will that add any protection?
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 13:55 - 09 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

You wouldn't normally laquer over machine enamel.

More is more when it comes to coats up to a point. Maybe have a poke at an inobtrusive bit and see what you think. It cures pretty hard.

I think I put 4 coats on mine but I have a spray gun so loads of paint to spare.

Pics? We like pics of peoples projects.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

09dudharb
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 23 Apr 2020
Karma :

PostPosted: 14:05 - 09 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the response... I've never been quite sure if lacquer is for looks or protection.

I'll do some more layers for sure then, I have another 5 cans coming!

Here are the photo but please excuse the mess!!

So I've chopped the rear end and welded on a piece of steel, hope the MOT tester is cool with it! Sounds like its down to their discretion as to if that rear end piece is structural or not.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

09dudharb
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 23 Apr 2020
Karma :

PostPosted: 14:06 - 09 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry not sure how to stick images in messages on here![/img]
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 14:32 - 09 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

09dudharb wrote:


So I've chopped the rear end and welded on a piece of steel, hope the MOT tester is cool with it! Sounds like its down to their discretion as to if that rear end piece is structural or not.


Doh!

You've removed all horizontal bracing from your rear subframe and replaced it with a piece of flatstock.

I bet if I stood facing it with one side against my legs and pulled on the other side with both hands, I could bend the two "legs" of the subframe together. The bits you removed are pressed cross section and impart a lot of strength/bracing in that direction.

I'd have used a bit of box-section where you have that piece of straight flatbar.

If flat's all you have. I'd be tempted to weld in another bit under the bottom end of the frame at 90 degrees to that straight flat. Welded to both the frame and the edge of the bit of flat you already have. And/or a triangular gusset.

At least it's a monoshock so all it needs to support is you.

To embed the image, open the attachment, copy the url from the address bar then edit your post, wrapping that url in IMG tags.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=103487
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

09dudharb
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 23 Apr 2020
Karma :

PostPosted: 22:33 - 09 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looked into bending box section but the bender and die are extremely expensive!

You got me thinking though... Not sure if I previously mentioned in the thread but I have a donar bike... There is a section on the gs frame that you remove to drop the engine. Just so happens it has the perfect curve and some straight box! Could chop that up. Found a pic of the part im talking about which ill attach.

So cut off my *call it a prototype* Very Happy and see if I can get that curved section welded on and a cross beam a little further down... What are your thoughts on flux core wire? I've never used it before but run out of argon
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

P.addy
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
Karma :

PostPosted: 00:11 - 10 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

2 things.

Lol at the frame.

It's a GS500. When you ride it, the engines gonna shit itself anyway.

That poor frame though.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 01:29 - 10 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm afraid I'm not great at welding. I do seagull-shite stick welding. I just know I could bend that thickness of flatbar by hand and that there is a lot more lateral force on a subframe when you're cornering than you'd expect.

While I'm not a frame builder either, I reckon even a single bit of that box as a cross-brace would be fine. If the bent bit of flat steel is just to hold a tailpiece and not be particularly load-bearing, it's fine. The frame is well triangulated in the vertical axis anyway and it's a monoshock so all the chassis force is forwards of there (there was a similarly chopped twinshock frame posted a couple of weeks ago that was actively dangerous).

But yes, if you could have a bent bit of box arching up (or down), it would be as strong as the original bracing.

Given the way this is heading, you're probably going to go for a single seat with a hump so plan how that's going to look, your brace could form the profile of the hump?
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

09dudharb
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 23 Apr 2020
Karma :

PostPosted: 10:17 - 10 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
2 things.

Lol at the frame.

It's a GS500. When you ride it, the engines gonna shit itself anyway.

That poor frame though.


I expected to get some shit for sure haha! Tbh when i bought the bike the frame was already chopped with nothing joining the 2 ends so Im hoping I've only improved it... even if just slightly!

Over the years I done lots of work on bikes but never delved into an engine before. I had a guzzi that I was too scared to touch so bought the gs as a project because of mass knowledge base online and cheap available parts. Really it was just a project to learn on.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

09dudharb
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 23 Apr 2020
Karma :

PostPosted: 10:28 - 10 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I'm afraid I'm not great at welding. I do seagull-shite stick welding. I just know I could bend that thickness of flatbar by hand and that there is a lot more lateral force on a subframe when you're cornering than you'd expect.

But yes, if you could have a bent bit of box arching up (or down), it would be as strong as the original bracing.

Given the way this is heading, you're probably going to go for a single seat with a hump so plan how that's going to look, your brace could form the profile of the hump?


I'm going to have a think as the bike is stored at a garage a mile from my house with no eletricity! Last time I pushed it up to do the welding but the thought of getting it on wheels, pusing it, doing the job, pushing it back, taking swingarm and font end off again to repaint makes me feel a little sick right now Laughing Will have a good think as now is the best time to do it for sure.

To be honest im not thinking of a hump... This pic is where I getting most of my inspiration from. Except that side pannel, will have to think of something to do different there. And I think ill go for the plain olive drab tank.


Any thoughts on engine paint? This is what it looks like right now Laughing I had the valves recut so they aqua blasted it at the head same time

https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=103489

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/screenshot_20200508-102104.jpg
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 10:37 - 10 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had good results with simonize vht engine paint.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

09dudharb
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 23 Apr 2020
Karma :

PostPosted: 10:42 - 10 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I've had good results with simonize vht engine paint.


Cheers, what was the finish like?

I'd be happy with a worn out matt black colour...

A friend mentioned spraying old engine oil on it and letting it burn off but I'm not sure if he was taking the piss or not Laughing
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:08 - 10 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oil on hot metal will work on cast iron/steel, it's called "japanning". Not so sure about alloy. I think it would just go dull.

They do a matt finish in that simonize paint. If you want a really chalky matt finish, you could use brush-on wood stove paint but I find it less robust. PJ1 is also popular, although I think the simonize is more forgiving to apply. Just did Mrs stinkwheels exhaust with it. I am also a fan of plastikote, they do a woodstove and BBQ paint. I use that on a lot of parts.

Whatever paint you use needs to be VHT (very high temperature) paint.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Easy-X
Super Spammer



Joined: 08 Mar 2019
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:22 - 10 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not to rain on your parade but I always experience some cognitive dissonance when I see bikes like your "inspiration" - the tyres say "rough terrain" but the ground clearance says "...but no rocks please!"
____________________
Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Riejufixing
World Chat Champion



Joined: 24 Jun 2018
Karma :

PostPosted: 13:18 - 10 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Oil on hot metal will work on cast iron/steel, it's called "japanning"

I have never heard of that. I thought japanning to be a type of lacquer work.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Riejufixing
World Chat Champion



Joined: 24 Jun 2018
Karma :

PostPosted: 13:21 - 10 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
They do a matt finish in that simonize paint

It seems OK stuff, I have used stove paint too, which is also good, and brush-on cyllinder black which is good too.

I have wondered why anodising seemingly isn't used for such components.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 13:45 - 10 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:

I have never heard of that. I thought japanning to be a type of lacquer work.


Maybe it's not that then, It's what I've always called it. You degrease, heat evenly then apply/dunk in oil while hot to give a fairly durable satiny black finish. I've been doing it on the mild steel fittings on my bullet and it seems pretty effective at preventing surface corrosion.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

09dudharb
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 23 Apr 2020
Karma :

PostPosted: 13:54 - 10 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Not to rain on your parade but I always experience some cognitive dissonance when I see bikes like your "inspiration" - the tyres say "rough terrain" but the ground clearance says "...but no rocks please!"


Wont be doing any off roading so I'll be going with standard tyres... practicality for looks on that one
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

09dudharb
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 23 Apr 2020
Karma :

PostPosted: 13:56 - 10 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Oil on hot metal will work on cast iron/steel, it's called "japanning". Not so sure about alloy. I think it would just go dull.

They do a matt finish in that simonize paint. If you want a really chalky matt finish, you could use brush-on wood stove paint but I find it less robust. PJ1 is also popular, although I think the simonize is more forgiving to apply. Just did Mrs stinkwheels exhaust with it. I am also a fan of plastikote, they do a woodstove and BBQ paint. I use that on a lot of parts.

Whatever paint you use needs to be VHT (very high temperature) paint.


Have you got a pic of the Mrs stinkwheels exhaust btw?
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 16:34 - 10 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

09dudharb wrote:


Have you got a pic of the Mrs stinkwheels exhaust btw?


Sorry, didn't take one and it's all under the fairing now.

Here's one of her last bike. Side cover done with plastikote BBQ paint. Headers and side of the radiator done with halfords own brand VHT matt black brush-on.

The latter did not last long. The former still looks like that nearly 11 years later.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=103496
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts
Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 6 years, 41 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
  Display posts from previous:   
This page may contain affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. By clicking on an affiliate link, you accept that third-party cookies will be set.

Post new topic   Reply to topic    Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop All times are GMT + 1 Hour
Page 1 of 1

 
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum

Read the Terms of Use! - Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group
 

Debug Mode: ON - Server: birks (www) - Page Generation Time: 0.15 Sec - Server Load: 1.62 - MySQL Queries: 13 - Page Size: 133.17 Kb