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Honda cg125 replacement carb on eBay running pod filter.

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 Topic moved: from General Bike Chat to The Workshop by stinkwheel (13 May 2020 - 19:59)
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Alecf66
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 13 May 2020    Post subject: Honda cg125 replacement carb on eBay running pod filter. Reply with quote

Can anyone help me on getting the carb set up running properly with either a pod or foam filter. Once throttle is pulled back bike starts to bog or die. I know it will need up jetting but does anyone know the particular size or the rough range of the main jet I will need to replace? Any suggestions or help welcome
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iooi
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PostPosted: 20:54 - 13 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try the workshop.....
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 21:05 - 13 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put it back to standard or pay someone who knows what they are doing to sort it.
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Alecf66 This post is not being displayed because it has a low rating (Boring). Unhide this post / all posts.

Fisty
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PostPosted: 23:34 - 13 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alecf66 wrote:
Thanks for the smart comment. Boring


You asked for:-
Alecf66 wrote:
Any suggestions or help welcome


I gave you what you asked for.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:08 - 14 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Instead of buying a load of jets, you can get jet drills and sequentially drill one out until it's right (then usually overshoot but you only need to buy one more jet then).

But it's not necessarily just the jet, depends what it's doing at what throttle opening position. The main jet itself is only really concerned with 3/4 to full throttle. Needle position, needle jet, slide cutout and slow running jet all play variably significant parts at other throttle openings. To do it properly, you need to mark the throttle twistgrip and sequentially do road tests with the throttle at different openings then changing one thing at a time to see what works best (which alters everything you did before slightly). Main jet diameter is usually last.

However. My main quesion is was it running ok on the standard setup? Because I wouldn't expect a basic, low compression OHV single to be THAT fussy about its airbox. Yes it might need fine tuning a bit for a pod filter but not to the point where it's bogging. CG125 airboxes are not accoustically tuned for pressure waves and laminar flow, the airbox is mostly to give it some still, clean air to breathe and to keep the induction noise down.

If it wasn't running right before, you're starting in the wrong place.

Sure you have the choke off? (getting the off and on positions wrong is a really common mistake on CG125s).
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 00:34 - 14 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

With all due respect, you're not giving us much to go on Sad Things like what year the bike is. What's this eBay carb? A knock-off of the original, something completely different, uprated size? Stock exhaust? Have you got the original airbox? If you do, does it run okay with it on?

I suspect we're missing the words "Café Racer" Neutral

Anyhoo, I've only really seen cookie-cutter jet choices for the off-road scene where every combo's been done to death.
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Alecf66
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PostPosted: 08:35 - 14 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks that was much much the reply I was looking for! So really appreciate that. It’s 1985 E model. I also don’t have the original air box was bought with a replacement carb and The exhaust is also different it’s a straight through exhaust I can send a pictures if need to be. I’ve taken it to the garage but he wasn’t keen to piss around trying to tune it, the bike sort of runs but poorly due to the air to fuel mixture I’m guessing. If I cover the pod filter with my hand slightly the bike will rev without bogging or dying unlike when left. Leads me to think this pod filters are crap and let in too much air. If there’s anyway I could go without rejetting would be good but I’m guessing not. I’ve also ordered a foam filter to maybe see if that helps but again probably not haha. Thanks again for help
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:22 - 14 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

So has it ever run right? Is the replacement carb even correct for the bike? I'd check by checking how it IS jetted and how it's supposed to be jetted.

You may be able to get a carb repair kit for the bike which would have all the correct brasswork (tubes, jets and needles) for a standard carb. Might not be a bad plan. They are relatively cheap. NOT from china! Wemoto do them for under £20.

If I was a mechanic, I wouldn't touch a bike with a random cheap ebay carb and pod filters with the smelly end of a shitty stick.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 12:34 - 14 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Picture of the bike, carb and exhausts would be good. Did you buy this as an unfinished project by any chance?

As an aside I'm reminded of a recent Tiff Needell video: F4 car, "it needs a bit of choke to start..." and he throws a rag over the air filter Smile

"That's too much air!" Thinking Well, yes and no. You have a more free flowing system (air in and straight exhaust out) you balance it out with more fuel. So cheer up, that means moar powa, baby Very Happy The downside is you may lose your sanity before you find the right combo of adjustments Shocked

Whatever jet that's in there is wrong so just buy bigger. If it's a #110 then buy half a dozen sizes above, e.g. 115, 120, 125 etc. (I have no idea what sort of carb, your numbers might be different.) Keep swapping till it starts performing more to your liking and then go one jet bigger. Richer = safer.
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Alecf66
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PostPosted: 20:59 - 15 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey mate thanks for again for the response. ive got a photo of the carb on my bike and the one i think was bought of eBay(i didn't buy) and also the exhaust which is straight through. Like ive said ive ordered some main jets up to 132 i believe and also a foam filter to try the difference.

Again any more help or suggestions from these pictures would be great
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 00:04 - 16 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haha! Called it Smile

Anyhoo, thankfully that carb's so basic it may as well be made of wood Wink Some sort of old-skool Keihin knockoff at a guess.

Pay careful attention to the jet type: short screw, long screw, hex-style or whatever as quite often the friendly merchants will say they have your ones and then send over some Mikunis Sad
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 18:34 - 16 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I bet that sounds fucking annoying. Laughing

Be cheaper to get the airbox and standard pipe or another bike vs getting that one running properly.
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Alecf66
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 16 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Legend! Thanks for comments will let you know after haha.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:59 - 16 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

In fairness, I'd also be cagey about how well made a complete carb that cost less than a genuine kehin throttle slide is.

Thought that should be at least mentioned.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 13:09 - 17 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
In fairness, I'd also be cagey about how well made a complete carb that cost less than a genuine kehin throttle slide is.

Thought that should be at least mentioned.


Yes, from my (obviously) limited experience it comes down to quality control - or lack thereof. Replacing the diaphragm carb on my Chinese scooter? You can only improve things it seems! The £17 eBay special I got was way better than the original.

And if it doesn't work out carbs as paperweights make for a very bold statement on any office desk Wink
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