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brakes are crap

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Akiraprise
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 31 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 01:51 - 30 Mar 2005    Post subject: brakes are crap Reply with quote

Ok, went down to collect my bike from the garage today, to be told they'd fitted new pads and fixed the fork seals, So I thought oh great Smile.

Went outside - bumpstarted the bike (they haven't fixed that yet) and when needing the front brake, realised THERE WASNT ONE! There was not one bit of resistance in it, so I started pumping at it (no jokes please) and the resistance finally started coming back, however after doing this loads it's still crap.

I've been told they didn't bleed it - after reading on the net this involves changing oil, but I've been told just to pin the brake to the bars overnight and it should be fixed tomorow.

What do I need to do, the brakes are still very crap at the front.

if it's any help its a 04 derbi gpr
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Frost
World Chat Champion



Joined: 26 May 2004
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PostPosted: 02:17 - 30 Mar 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes they need bleeding, tieing the lever back does help a bit, but thats not what bleeding is.
Just ask them at the garage to bleed to front brake when you get them to look at the starting problem.
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Scotsman37
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 02:47 - 30 Mar 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you checked the brake fluid level level in your master cylinder as it may have dropped far to low and do try tie wrapping the brake lever brake back to be left over night as it does actually help it after it's been bleed too.
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Akiraprise
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 31 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 12:48 - 30 Mar 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

the brake fluid seems fine.

Just took it back up the garage, they told me:

My front disk is worn, so the brake pad's not gripping the surface, once it wears in it'll be fine.

Is this the case? It's only a 9000KM (5000miles) bike so should the disks be worn already?

Anyway they said they'd take a look at it.

Also tied it up to the handles last night, didn't seem to do much - wat does that do? Draw all the air from the brake lines?
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Scotsman37
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Joined: 17 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 13:22 - 30 Mar 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Akiraprise wrote:
the brake fluid seems fine.

Just took it back up the garage, they told me:

My front disk is worn, so the brake pad's not gripping the surface, once it wears in it'll be fine.

Is this the case? It's only a 9000KM (5000miles) bike so should the disks be worn already?

Anyway they said they'd take a look at it.

Also tied it up to the handles last night, didn't seem to do much - wat does that do? Draw all the air from the brake lines?



If you can get hold of a micrometer you can take a note of the general thickness of the brake disk and compare to what it states in the service manual to see if it still within manufacturers guidelines. If it is to thin then you will definitely need a new brake disk(s) or if the surface is rippled then try contacting an engineering company to see if they can skim the surface of brake disk to make it smooth once more.

Another possibility that one of the connection points along the brake line is not torqued properly and so allowing air in or it could be the case that the caliper's non-return valves are allowing air back in.

When tie wrapping the front lever you're best to leave the bike on it's side stand stand with the wheel turned to the left to help any remaining air pockets rise up from the left front brake line.
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 15:50 - 30 Mar 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brake pads can take a while to bed in, And if the disk if a bit worn or scored then they might only be touching 20% of the surface for the first few miles.

Bleeding it is piss easy and takes about 30 seconds, so I'd recommend that - theres a howto somewhere on the forum.
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Guest
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 22 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 15:56 - 30 Mar 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

So this dealer had fitted new pads but hadn't pumped the pistons back out again?

I wouldn't go there again Rolling Eyes
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Patto
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 29 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 30 Mar 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

I am a mechanic by trade and if anyone had done that in the shop , the dealership would have been falling over themselves
to placate you as it is seriously incompetent.

They are damn lucky you didn't have a major accident.

having said that , if it is an old bike, the action of bleeding brakes
by pumping the lever has been known to see off a failing brake master cylinder so be sure it is sound and then bleed using the one pump and lock up the nipple method or better still a tight fitting hose over the brake nipple leading into a bottle partially filled
with brake fluid lets you pump continuously on the lever ( watch the level in the pot , make sure it does not run dry ) pump until no bubbles can be seen in the bleed pot, finally hold the lever down and lock off the bleed nipple.
You should then have a firm lever, check that the wheel is braked firmly when applying pressure and released cleanly and completely when letting go of the lever, if not you may have seized or sticking caliper pistons. probably best not to assume your garage would have picked that up when they changed the pads.

if you do nothing else get them brakes working right Thinking

hope this helps you

Patto
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Akiraprise
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Joined: 31 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 00:40 - 31 Mar 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all of your replies,

The bike is only 6 months old and I'd be shocked if the brakes have gone by now...actually judging by build quality i wouldn'\t be at all suprised.

Quote:
Brake pads can take a while to bed in, And if the disk if a bit worn or scored then they might only be touching 20% of the surface for the first few miles.


That's what the mechanic said to me aswell, however the brake wasn't working AT ALL when i first went to it - I thought it was the clutch after riding their scooter round Razz.

Quote:
, the dealership would have been falling over themselves
to placate you


I got no such treatment, however they said they'd try to fix it all the same day, now thats:

Fix brake light
fit new starter motor
fix brakes
fix side panel (on the original panel it touched the exhaust and melted, they fitted the new one and it's melted again).
fix battery / electrics

It wasn't ready same day but picking it up tomorow 12:00 so will post back and see what they 'found'.
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Scotsman37
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Joined: 17 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 02:41 - 31 Mar 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Akiraprise wrote:
Thanks for all of your replies,

The bike is only 6 months old and I'd be shocked if the brakes have gone by now...actually judging by build quality i wouldn'\t be at all suprised.

Quote:
Brake pads can take a while to bed in, And if the disk if a bit worn or scored then they might only be touching 20% of the surface for the first few miles.


That's what the mechanic said to me aswell, however the brake wasn't working AT ALL when i first went to it - I thought it was the clutch after riding their scooter round Razz.

Quote:
, the dealership would have been falling over themselves
to placate you


I got no such treatment, however they said they'd try to fix it all the same day, now thats:

Fix brake light
fit new starter motor
fix brakes
fix side panel (on the original panel it touched the exhaust and melted, they fitted the new one and it's melted again).
fix battery / electrics

It wasn't ready same day but picking it up tomorow 12:00 so will post back and see what they 'found'.



If you're still not happy then you should be able to get a full refund as it wasn't fit for what is sold for and you didn't get enough usage from it, as noted by Trading Standards under section 5a.

As my friend would say "To be ridden, not looked at".
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BFG
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 14 Feb 2005
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PostPosted: 11:53 - 31 Mar 2005    Post subject: Re: brakes are crap Reply with quote

Akiraprise wrote:
What do I need to do, the brakes are still very crap at the front.


Take it back, and play merry hell with them,. They are full of shit.

Their technical arguments may be valid, but there is no reason for such reasons to still be there when you pick the bike up. Brakes can be bled, brakes can be bedded in.

You should be able to ride out after having work done on the brakes and it should be roadworthy. I.e. it should pass an MOT there and then.

In fact - threaten to take it for an MOT at a different garage immediately after picking it up. Might help.

Personally I would drag the manager over the counter by his tie.
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Akiraprise
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 31 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 12:45 - 31 Mar 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok they said they can't do anything about the brakes as they're bedding in, but they seemed to have done something to them, as they're a bit better, still not very good though - but enough to stop quickish, which i had to try on the way home (bloody van pulled out).

They've fixed
back brake light
starter motor
side panel
fuel tap

But they couldn't find a reason for the battery depletion, it's apparently something to do with my dipped beam as it charges on the full beam, so we'll have to see with that one.

Quote:
In fact - threaten to take it for an MOT at a different garage immediately after picking it up. Might help.


they'd probably laugh in my face, tehre's no MOT in the channel islands Razz.

About sending it back, I sent the letter off yesterday with everyones comments, recorded to derbi head office, and said to reply within 10 days...so we'll see.
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Akiraprise
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 31 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 18:41 - 31 Mar 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

another update, this time concerning the back brake.

Basically at some point it jammed, luckily the back brakes not very good as i only noticed it after a little bit.

when my bike'd set off it would need revving very high to go off and wouldnt hit the powerband, so i thought i was in second gear, but i wasnt....I then checked choke etc and all the usual stuff but it was fine. Then i played with the brake and it went properly again.

Took it to the garage (with the hydralic oil being below the 'min' level, they fitted new pads, checked the brakes and road tested it for me whilst i waited - good eh?

but seem fine now :s
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Guest
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 22 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 21:51 - 31 Mar 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Akiraprise wrote:
they fitted new pads, checked the brakes and road tested it for me whilst i waited - good eh?



I should bloody well think so given their recent performance - sounds like you've put the wind up them Thumbs Up
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bish777
World Chat Champion



Joined: 11 Nov 2004
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PostPosted: 13:03 - 02 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Next time dont let them let the work experience boy work on your bike ok

In the future invest in a screwdriver set, cheap set of spannners and socket set and do the work yourself lol
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overdog
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 13 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: 14:33 - 02 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wotcha mate-another mechanic here(place is full of em...)

Sounds like the muppet who worked on your bike didnt pump the lever to contact the disc after changing the pads.(Confession time-Ive done it meself on my bike and I just about sh1t meself when I needed to stop the thing).
Depending on the disc condition I would say the 20% contact thing is about right-they should get better with use-if they dont take it back to the dealership and ask them to sort it.

FYI unless you asked them to change the fluid they wont have bled the brakes-no need to. Shocked
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Ooooh-thats gonna leave a scar!
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