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Fuse box.

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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 16:40 - 22 Nov 2020    Post subject: Fuse box. Reply with quote

I've taken the back cover off the fuse box and there's a bit of corrosion there, although the blades for fuses and connectors look good. I'd like to see what's on the other side of the circuit board but I'm not sure if I'm going to break it by prying it out. I can the lift edge opposite the connectors. Will it come, or are they bonded in?

https://i.postimg.cc/y36sn2cS/IMG-2522.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/VrWzqzr8/IMG-2523.jpg


Last edited by Kawasaki Jimbo on 19:52 - 22 Nov 2020; edited 1 time in total
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 22 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks OK to me, seen much worse.
I'd just check the pads for dry joints and squish some
switch cleaner in there
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 02:00 - 23 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some or all of the connectors will most likely be latched into the plastic moulding. The question is how is the PCB attached to the connectors?

I'd try pushing the connectors in while gently prying the opposite side and see if it'll kind of slide out. I dimly recall the one on my GPZ500 coming apart something like that so I could get at a microrelay. The PCB wasn't bonded in as such but the connectors had to be wiggled back through the moulding to get it apart.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 17:42 - 28 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got it. I was expecting the circuit board to slide out sideways leaving the connector block in the housing. However, when I prised all around the board it lifted straight upwards and out. The three components you see in the picture sit on top of each other. Four screws and a backboard then keep it all together.

Inside it looks visually perfect so I'll put it back. I was looking for any possible cause for the ZX6's parasitic draw which I've mentioned before. I haven't been able to verify that with a meter but my R1 can sit unused for months without ruining its battery whereas the Kawasaki won't. A bigger battery (ytz12s) didn't help and it too is now beyond resuscitation. The solution would have been to keep an eye on the battery or use both bikes regularly but laziness/forgetfulness, no electricity in the garage, and a preference for the Yamaha this summer spoiled that plan.

Instead I have a workaround in the shape of a Gunson smart battery alert. Hopefully I'll hear the reminder as soon as the battery needs charging even if I haven't open the garage door.

https://i.postimg.cc/SRzLbwSv/IMG-2529.jpg
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A100man
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 28 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

A simpler solution would be to disconnect the earth if leaving for any length of time.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 28 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
A simpler solution would be to disconnect the earth if leaving for any length of time.

Yeah, I did think about that a while ago but I was intending to have both bikes ready to go at any time without faffing about under the seat. I thought the larger capacity battery would have improved the situation, but no. I think you're right. In fact the replacement battery is charged up but hasn't left the kitchen.
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xX-Alex-Xx
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PostPosted: 10:12 - 29 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you want to find any parasitic draw, connect an Ammeter inline with the battery. You’ll see a small amount of current draw. If you see a reading higher than normal, remove fuses until it drops. The fuse you remove is the circuit that’s causing the draw. Troubleshoot from there.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 14:22 - 29 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

xX-Alex-Xx wrote:
If you want to find any parasitic draw, connect an Ammeter inline with the battery. You’ll see a small amount of current draw. If you see a reading higher than normal, remove fuses until it drops. The fuse you remove is the circuit that’s causing the draw. Troubleshoot from there.

I've tried several times but all I get are zero values even on mA settings with a decent meter.
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