I don't know what is wrong with my bike!

[Kister]

Hi. I am pretty used to fixing my bike. But I have started to scratch my head raw with this now..
So after a month mothballed I rode my bike to work and it was jerky. Ok.. I thought, I have got a bit of water in my fuel. I will rev through it and cope.
My ride home was fine. Next day I filled up my near empty tank with some lovely 97 for good luck. Still a bit jerky on the way in. Ready for the commute home and my bike wouldn't start. Electric start until the battery was tired and then kick started. Eventually it fired and was fine. I rode 3 minutes then it faltered to a stop. I am still thinking water in the fuel. Started pretty quickly. Rode another 5 minutes at high revs and then I could feel it struggling and then the bike slowed down to nothing. It was trying to fire but it was like one rev a second. Then kuput. No nothing. Lights off. NADA. I took out all the fuses one by one and they all seemed to be complete (mix of blade and glass) still no life. Then saw that the light was very dim. Kicked it over and everything came back to life. So now I am home. I don't think it is water in the fuel anymore. I think it is electrical. The battery seems pretty healthy. Do you think this is a simple short. Or could this be rectifier/alternator related. And the bike is
.

.

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Enfield bullet 2011 Electra. 25k (mileage, not value)
TIA.
Chris

[Nobby the Bastard]

Coil is failing.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[stinkwheel]

So did the battery charge up enough on your way home to use the electric start?

Do you have a voltmeter you can use to check the charging voltage at the battery?

If the battery is too flat to run the electric start, it doesn't have enough charge in it to properly power up the fuel injection system. This was the rationale for the early models not having a kick start until they realised a) The electric start sprag clutches commonly shit themselves and b) People like the option to kick-start an enfield bullet.

Worth checking, or simply replacing, the sparkplug.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[davebike]

Usual issue
Get a multimeter and see where there is power and where no power !
I have seen a bullet have intermitent power to the coil SHIT enfield wireing had partly come appart White wire red trace I recall being the issue three way joint twisetd and taped no solder or crimp ! appeared oridgional !
____________________
Dave
NC750Xdct + others at work !
davebike1@gmail.com

[wr6133]

Check the charging system. My 535 GT (UCE motor) did similar when the R/R died.

The fuel pump will prime with the battery as low as 8V, the leccy start won't work though. When mine died similar situation, let the battery sit 5 minutes, pump will prime, kick start, ride for 3 minutes, rinse & repeat half a dozen times and then the battery got too low to prime the pump so I called a recovery truck.

If it is the R/R it's pretty simple to replace the crappy Indian one with a good jap one.

[Kister]

Ok. I am sure it is not the battery so I am going to replace the coil as I understand the logic! Can anyone tell me what R/R abbreviates? Thanks all!

[wr6133]

[bikenut]

All of the above...

Get an exact wiring diagram for your bike.


Make a copy, a working copy for your "shed".

You could copy the diagram, and using your computer, remove all unrelated wiring for say the ignition system, and print it off.

Do the same for the charging system, and print it off.

Ditto for the edit system etc and build a library of diagrams for your bike so you end up with a full wiring diagram and specific diagrams for the specific systems diagrams for your bike.

This may make things easier for you, and eventually you will have the info in the best mobile computer you will ever get, the one inside your head.

Get a multimeter and check charging rate, at least voltage across battery when engine running, under load, and at idle and revs, say 4k revs.

Usual voltage regulation about 14.7 volts max.

A real low tech charge rate check, bike front by wall, engine idleing and headlights on, increase revs and see lights "grow" in brightness, yes then good, no, then problem.

Remember this is a low tech check only.

With the edit, has tank hot water, rust, muck in it? And is the breather ok ?

With fuel systems, start cleaning process at the filler cap.

A good ignition test tool are those red neon plug caps that flash when they pass HT, but you may have to make an adapter to fit them for testing.
They can give an indication as to HT strength and can be seen flashing at night under load.

Get these basic tools/aides to help you.they do not cost a little t and will pay for themselves the first time used, an investment.

How do you find your bike ? Good or just ok ?
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nuts about bikes

[Kister]

I have never seen those neon caps before. I might have to leave one on it looks cool!
And how do I find my bike? 10 years old 25K. a few initial problems like sprag clutch. wiring loom shorting out. several replacement fuel gauges.
lots of servicing of front caliper. I buy parts from Hitchcocks or india so nice and cheap. all the bulbs popped within a year so lots of decent spec bulbs now.

I ride it all weather, no fair weather riding for me. just a commute
and everytime I stop someone comes and chats. It is one of the watsonian specials from 2010 with the upswept exhausts "trials"
Unfortunatley I don't clean and polish it. Just ride it. One submersion through really muddy water one year gave it a certain patina that can't be removed. A bit salty that year!
Yes. It brings me great joy and i was thinking of changing to something like an MT07 but I don't need to go any faster. at 80 without a screen, with naked bike geometry it is plenty for me!
Anyway what would i do with my evenings if I had a bike that I didn't need to fix?

[bikenut]

Those neon plug caps are no for show dude, just For testing ignition, worth the weight in gold but you may have to make an adapter so they can be used.

Make adaptor so HT lead etc as standard, just plug in neon in line.

You should be able to view the neon at night, so no flash when misfire or what ever.

They are only for testing purposes.

Bulbs blew, where all bulbs black ? And you could smell rotten eggs, and battery always needs topping up ?

Maybe check all electrical connections, but get wiring diagram and digital multi meter.
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nuts about bikes

[Kister]

The bulbs blowing went back 10 years. they were all just cheaply manufactured. If my battery ever needs topping up, I buy a new one!
I have the wiring diagram and multimeter. but I have never had a Coil or rectifier fault so it is all new to me!
C

[bikenut]

Can you post the wiring diagram for a look-see please.

You read the instruction for the dmm, don't forget to select voltage range, say 20 volts DC !

Don't forget DC not ac.

Dmm set to DC 20volt, place red lead to battery positive, black lead to battery negative, every think off.

Note voltage across battery. 12.5 volts ish ?

Turn ignition on, leads same, note voltage 12volts ish now?

You may need an assistant now, unless you have 4 hands....

Leads same, kill ignition ( handle bar kill switch need diagram to know ) , press electric starter, abd hold for say 4 seconds, no more, dmm will hunt for reading now but t when stable, note reading. Reading not below 10 volts ? Good.

Next, leads the same, start engine and allow to idle. Note reading after say 5 seconds,. Volts now
Over 13volts ish, good.

Increase revs to say 3 to 4 k revs, volts across battery now more than 13, say 14.5 ish ?

With more revs voltage should not go over 14.7 ish, regulated voltage.

Now with leads the same, load system by turning headlights on, at idle, voltage across battery is more than 12 volt ? Good.

Next increase revs, voltage across battery increased and lights grow brighter, voltage does not go over 14.7 volts ? Good.

This is a basic test and voltages are ball park, but regulated voltage should not go over 14.7 volts, usually. Check in your well read manual for recommended values.

This test does not take into account amps !

That's a different bag of sweets for a different day, it's more involved and needs great care when being tested.

Wiring diagram please, feedback on voltages achieved with clear test conditions, like engine running at 4k revs with lights off etc..

Are any bulbs going black, look at headlamp side lamp, the dim one, and headlamp bulb.
It may be an idea to take the back lens off and check the stop and tail bulb for being black, or blackish.

Wiring diagram please.
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nuts about bikes

[Kister]

Here is the wiring diagram!
[/img]https://www.midlandbullets.co.uk/images/EFI%20workshop%20chart.png[url][/url]

[Weisse Schlange]

My money is on the Reg / Rec

Just fixing a gsxr 125 with the same symptoms and that was the issue.

The stalling at tickover is a clue on fuel injected bikes.
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Hing Oan

[bikenut]

Sorry but that address will not open for me, can you post the diagram on here?
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nuts about bikes

[xX-Alex-Xx]

[stevo123]

https://www.midlandbullets.co.uk/images/EFI%20workshop%20chart.png

Try again mate, works okay from here.

[Easy-X]

Let's make it even easier:

https://www.midlandbullets.co.uk/images/EFI%20workshop%20chart.png
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[bikenut]

Never ready battery, love that !

So did you do any of the charge system checks, how did they do ?

Those addresses worked fine, maybe buttonitise, maybe internet phone ?

Had a quick look at diagram, hence never ready battery 😊, but it has a kick start ?

Nice simple wiring diagram and quite some fuses on the red.
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nuts about bikes

[Kister]

I will do the checks tonight and let you know what I find... Thanks for all your input guys!

[Kister]

I have been waiting for a neop plug cap tester to arrive Sorry!

[wr6133]

Checked the charging system yet? It's literally a 5 minute job with a multimeter on the battery terminals.

[Robby]

I have had exactly those symptoms with a failed reg/rec. Feel like it is running out of fuel, dies. Electric start still works a bit but it won't catch, eventually get it going, ride a bit more than the battery properly dies.

It isn't logical in my head - if there is enough in the battery to spin the starter motor then I would expect it to be able to make sparks. Unfortunately, logic and reality are not always the same thing.

Check the charging system.

[bikenut]

I have had a similar problem with a bike with a non battery dependant CDI ignition system.

After about 18 miles it spluttered and died. I pushed it from the roundabout to a safe space. I checked the fuel, even fuel flow from the tank to the carbs, good flow and tank 3/4 full.

By that time the engine had cooled and started straight away, so headed for home.

Two miles down the road, she did it again.
The battery was fine.

Allowed to cool and off we go again getting closer to home.

I eventually made it home.

Next day, get the red neons out and check.
Started engine, flashes a bit weakish but she started straight away, with neons growing brighter with revs.

Left it at idle to warm up properly. All good so far, so neons in my pocket, ride around the village and yes, she died again.

Fitted neons, no flash, no spark, no HT.

Turns out the ignition system generator died when hot.

Red neons really handy bits of kit and prevent hair loss 😁

A similar, battery seemed to be dieing, difficult to start with reduced cranking speed.

Removed battery and charged, refitted and started well again. Did basic volts output, voltage across battery at cranking, idleing at at ,4 k revs.

Low Genny output, found badly corroded alternator wire to reg/rec, a loss of one phase from the alternator.

Fixed that and fine eversince.

That bikes ignition system was a battery dependant CDI system. Slow cranking speed due to phase loss, CDI system starved so didn't work well enough, if at all, hence poor/non starting.
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nuts about bikes

[Kister]

This sounds so familiar!