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Rear wheel bearings.

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Dom_
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PostPosted: 18:26 - 03 Apr 2005    Post subject: Rear wheel bearings. Reply with quote

My bike decided to eat a rear wheel bearing today, and the bike is at a mates (Shellshock/Distortions house), and is totally un-rideable.

Now i've found a site that tells me the stock wheel bearings are either SKF 6201 and 6202 - is this an aprilia bearing,,or to you experts out there, does it look like a general size. So could i go to a shop tomorrow and ask for a SKF 6202 and they would know what i'm on about??

Thanks, Dom.

p.s. i work for dk, so on saturday when i realised they were on there way out i asked how much they were, and they said if i could find the sizes they could get them for about a fiver each, but if not they will have to order aprilia ones for £13.95 each. So i really need to know the sizes!!!
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 18:44 - 03 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

They are standard common bearings. £4.50 each from M&P I think. 6201 is used on the front of the NS125 and a 6202 is used on the front of an NSR125 according to an old catalogue I have floating round.

Dimensions a 6201 is 12 x 32 x 10 (inside diameter x outside diameter x depth) and a 6020 is 15 x 35 x 11.

All the best

Keith
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ash t
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PostPosted: 18:59 - 03 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jesus Christ...Is there ANYTHING you dont know???


LOL
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Dom_
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PostPosted: 19:08 - 03 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

They are standard common bearings. £4.50 each from M&P I think. 6201 is used on the front of the NS125 and a 6202 is used on the front of an NSR125 according to an old catalogue I have floating round.

Dimensions a 6201 is 12 x 32 x 10 (inside diameter x outside diameter x depth) and a 6020 is 15 x 35 x 11.


Thumbs Up Thanks a lot mate. Thumbs Up

So do you think i should order 2x 6202 bearings for the rear??

Mucho appriciation for the help.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 03 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Those bearings should be easy to source. Most bike shops probably have them in stock.

I would take the old bearings out and double check the sizes. You also want to ensure that there is only 2 bearings in there (some Yamahas have 2 bearings on the chain side and one on the brake side, plus another in the sprocker carrier).

Once you have made sure the codes are right then just pick some new ones up. Get the bearings with 2RS at the end of the code (2 rubber seals).

All the best

Keith
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Dr Nick
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PostPosted: 02:51 - 04 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

The company that makes those bearings for Aprilia is shite apparently, find a local Bearing place near you and they will be able to make you one there and then, should be cheaper than the aprilia shite too. Bearing also went on my 50.
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Dom_
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PostPosted: 11:17 - 04 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dr Nick wrote:
The company that makes those bearings for Aprilia is shite apparently, find a local Bearing place near you and they will be able to make you one there and then, should be cheaper than the aprilia shite too. Bearing also went on my 50.


Yeah! I work for DK motrocycles and my rear started shaking last week (i know i should have got it sorted last week) so i asked at DK and they said £13.95 each for aprilia bearings. But they said if i can get the sizes they they can get me some different bearings for a fiver each. I'll nip round to my mates house in a bit where the bike currently is, plus hes got a paddock stand.

Do you by any chance know how many bearings there are?? Is it just the two?
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R4nger
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PostPosted: 11:50 - 04 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I heard DK was sh!te aswell.
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Dr Nick
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 04 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dom_ wrote:
Dr Nick wrote:
The company that makes those bearings for Aprilia is shite apparently, find a local Bearing place near you and they will be able to make you one there and then, should be cheaper than the aprilia shite too. Bearing also went on my 50.


Yeah! I work for DK motrocycles and my rear started shaking last week (i know i should have got it sorted last week) so i asked at DK and they said £13.95 each for aprilia bearings. But they said if i can get the sizes they they can get me some different bearings for a fiver each. I'll nip round to my mates house in a bit where the bike currently is, plus hes got a paddock stand.

Do you by any chance know how many bearings there are?? Is it just the two?


Paid like a fiver for 2, lasted until the gearbox went.
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Dr Nick
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PostPosted: 12:23 - 04 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh yer, do them both at the same time, i found that out the hardway Embarassed .
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 13:24 - 04 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

There are loads of bearing suppliers. Don't know if Aprilia ones are worse than anyone elses, but I have a 17 year old Aprilia in the garage which has the original rear wheel bearings. Bearings from the bike maker are always expensive.

Definatly replace both bearings in the wheel at the same time.

All the best

Keith
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cagiva gezzer
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PostPosted: 14:05 - 04 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

My ones from M&P were the same brand as the ones in my cagiva and the ones being sold by three cross for three times the cost.
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Dom_
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PostPosted: 18:40 - 04 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh dear Crying or Very sad It's worse than i thought, the bearings ate the thing that goes in my wheel (not the spindle) and ate the innards of my wheel.

Any advise as to what to do ??

Thanks.
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BFG
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PostPosted: 19:10 - 04 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dom_ wrote:
Any advise as to what to do ??

Thanks.


Hmm. The bearing has collapsed, don't see that so often these days. Is it still under warranty? You're lucky - this could have been nasty as resulted in an off.

That component with the ball-race gouges - Is that the spacer? Normally the inner races of the bearing will sit directly on the spindle, and the spacer sits on the spindle between the bearings. Its job is to allow the spindle to be tightened hard without undue forces on the bearings themselves.

Looks like the bearing has collapsed, and the balls have found their way into the space between the bearings and ground up the spacer. Not so serious - the spacer just does one job. Check the wheel for matching damage though.

More important is the seat for the bearing itself, the one in the wheel where the bearing sits. If there is wear there - it's a problem. If the bearing can't sit properly, things are not good. The seat can be machined out to accept oversize bearings, or you might be looking at a new wheel worst case. It's hard to tell from the photos, buit from pic2, you might be OK. The outer bearing race seems intact.

Make sure you get rid of any scrot and swarf, and try a new bearing to see how it sits. It should be a sliding fit in your wheel(like your forks going up and down - maybe slightly tighter) with zero play side to side. If it seats OK - and the internal damage on the wheel is not too extensive - you might be OK. Good luck! I would fit a new spacer.


Last edited by BFG on 19:17 - 04 Apr 2005; edited 1 time in total
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 19:13 - 04 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

If I am looking at those pictures correctly it has wrecked the spacer that goes between the bearings (probably not too bad on its own) but also looks like it has chewed up the inside of the wheel. That spacer is fairly tough metal normally, and the ball bearings are likely to do far more damage to the soft alloy of the wheel.

It the bearing outer had not spun then the wheel might be OK, but you cannot see the damage on the inside of the wheel which worries me a bit.

I would be inclined to try and find a good 2nd hand wheel. Rear wheels should be easy to find and cheaper.

All the best

Keith
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Dom_
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PostPosted: 19:19 - 04 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

BFG wrote:
Hmm. The bearing has collapsed, don't see that so often these days. Is it still under warranty? You're lucky - this could have been nasty as resulted in an off.


Your telling me. It collapsed mid-corner, my back end went all over the place. It's not a new bike, so no warrenty.

The inside of the wheel is scratched to buggery, i'll take another photo in a minute. If i was to get another spacer would it matter that the inside of the wheel is still scratched (the scratches are as deep as the ones on the spacer)

My only option to get a 2nd hand wheel then???

Thanks for the help everyone, much appriciated.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 04 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

I would be far more worried about the damage to the wheel than to the spacer.

The spacer it only really there to support the centres of the bearings. Basically the load you put in them when you tighten the rear wheel spindle.

All the best

Keith
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Dom_
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PostPosted: 19:28 - 04 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what damage am i to look for on the wheel then??

The inside is still scratched
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 04 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Similar wear on the inside of the spindle area as there is on that spacer.

In reality it might be fine with such damage, but I would be very dubious about trusting it.

All the best

Keith
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Dom_
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 04 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll go down DK this week as i know they have an rs50 in for breaking. I had the brand new tyre off it, now i'm having the wheel as well. lol.

Just hope they don't want too much for it.

Also, would the spacer not grind against the insied of the wheel with such damage to the wheel?? Thats if i used to original wheel and got a new spacer.
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BFG
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PostPosted: 20:34 - 04 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agree with Kickstart. Smile

It's a 50?? The wheels tend to be over-engineered. Look at the photos. The hub part is connected to the rest of the wheel by thin ribs. The thickness of the hub is not always done for performance strength - it is often done to prevent distortion during machining in the factory. Point being - there might be more than enough strength left even with the wear. If the thickness of the remaining material is at least twice the thickness of the ribs - this would make the decision for me if it were my bike.

But we all agree - this is the risk. It's impossible to say via photos on the net.

Don't forget the risks with second hand wheels are also quite significant. Given what can happen to alloy with impact / heat damage - invisible hairline cracks etc. Will you replace one visible risk with another invisible one? But - as said they are over-engineered though.


SmileI would strongly recommend - Have an engineer look your existing wheel. Also - the bearing seats must be perfect!!
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Dom_
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 04 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll take the lot down to andys and see what they say, then i'll go to dk and see what they say.

Then post my findings.

Thanks fpr the help.

Dom.
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Dom_
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PostPosted: 22:06 - 04 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right, i finally got the last bits of the bearing out, here is what it now looks like. There is only a few mm of metal that will be able to hold the new bearing in, and tbh i dont think it's enough.

What do you think??
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 22:24 - 04 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Not sure how much is really missing.

To be honest I would be tempted to just fit new bearings, but also just as tempted to do the job properly and get a fresh wheel.

All the best

Keith
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BFG
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PostPosted: 13:28 - 05 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dom_ wrote:
There is only a few mm of metal that will be able to hold the new bearing in.

What do you think??


It's a three dimensional world. "A few mm" descibes only one of these dimensions. Can you describe it a little more? Can you give a photo at a slight angle rather than straight down so we can see the bearing seat? Hold the old bearing next to it so we can see it in comparison to the depth.

Sorry if I'm telling you something you know -- Your wheel is held onto your bike by those tiny bearings, one at either end of the wheel. That's it. 10mm wide bits of steel, with balls inside Smile The big bulky stuff in the middle between the bearings doesn't actually do anything at all in terms of holding the wheel on. The spacer doesn't touch the wheel anyway, that's not its job.

The outer race (The most external bit of each bearing) goes into the bearing seat (important bits in diagram). The bit of the wheel which takes the race. When a bearing collapses, the outer race usually stays intact. It's hard as f*ck and will not usually be damaged. Point being, it protects the bearing seat in the process. This is the bit we're interested in.

If a new bearing can be "held" completely, with none of the seat missing or gouged, this tells us a lot. Smile

Here's a diagram. Note the spindle isn't shown, this is from a manual showing a bearing installer.

https://homepage.ntlworld.com/project101/images-ext/wheel_bearing.gif
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