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NOT STARTING after cleaning clutch cable - HELP

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MaxineDuncan
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 01 Mar 2021
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PostPosted: 07:41 - 01 Mar 2021    Post subject: NOT STARTING after cleaning clutch cable - HELP Reply with quote

Hey legends, hope you're well.

Need a little help over here with troubleshooting this issue if anyone has any wisdom they would like to share.

Im a little bit of a rook, but got my second bike not long ago and have been trying my best to work on it myself. Another day, another drama haha but enjoying the lessons of trying to work throught it.

Anyway, current issue: took the clutch cable cover off to give it a little clean up, also wanted to check out the neutral switch in there (hadnt had that light working since i got this bike)
So took case off, cleaned it up a bit, put it back on, as far as i know thats all i did and then for some reason bike wont start again .

Getting that click when i push the starter, but its not really turning over.
Cant work out what would of changed in me doing so, to make it not want to start again

Anyway, if anyone has any ideas or wisdom to share, would be much apparcieted

Thanks in advance
Maxine
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doggone
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PostPosted: 09:07 - 01 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some bikes do have a cut off system so you can't turn the starter without the clutch in but the gubbins for that aren't down there.
There is usually a cut off on the sidestand too which often gives problems as it's exposed to road salt etc.
If those were playing games you would get nothing at all not a click as if it was trying to turn over.
That sounds like a bad battery or possibly bad earth connection probably complete coincidence it has happened while you were cleaning it.
First thing would be to put it on charge or try jump leads to see if there's any change.
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MaxineDuncan
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PostPosted: 11:07 - 01 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey @doggone first of all thanks for the response.

And yes your totally correct, you do have a kill switch on the bars and same kinda thing on the stand. but when you have those are activated you would get a clean cut,

Nothing happens with the Starter, as you mentioned
And im getting an attemted start - similar sound to when you do have a flat battery. but my battery is full (took it out and tested it)

But yeah... bumping earth cable isnt a bad thought.
And jumping it is a good suggestion, i push started, but if i used a 'jumper start' i suppose that would isolate the issue somewhat.

If starts right away from jumping.... its my battery. if not ... something to do with my starter
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 11:57 - 01 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can find the starter solenoid, shorting between the two high current posts on that should make the starter motor spin over regardless of what's happening with any safety interlocks.

Also make sure you didn't pinch any wires under the cover when you put it back on.

As an aside, there is a giant circlip holding the front sprocket on? I've never seen that before. On that type of sprocket/final drive system, I'd expect to have a splined washer that bolts into the sprocket itself with two short bolts. Like this:
https://photos.smugmug.com/Adventure/Motorcycles-1/XR650L/i-7SkVZpL/0/ca441103/L/P4080005-L.jpg

While it's probably doing a reasonable job of holding the sprocket on, I'm a bit cagey about it, it won't be holding the sprocket in place like a splined washer would.

What bike is it? Then you can check the parts fisches and see what's supposed to be there. I could be wrong and it's suppossed to have a circlip, never seen it though and centrepetal force will tend to cause that type of clip to undo itself.
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Evil Hans
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PostPosted: 13:06 - 01 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:

What bike is it?


^ This would have been useful info!

(But looks like a GS500 to me)
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 13:17 - 01 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

The circlip design is standard Suzuki being dickheads, they also do it on the RGV250 and the 400cc inline 4 engines. Saves weight and allows quick changing of sprockets, which might just be useful on an RGV but on everything else is just an excuse for a pattern sprocket (or slack chain / knackered cush drive) to set in motion a sequence of events that wears the output shaft splines out. Horrible design, on my GSXR400 I check it often and grease the splines, and change the sprocket if it's getting too wobbly.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 13:31 - 01 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dunno but

I'm going to guess the neutral switch has been disturbed.

Does it start if you hold the clutch in while pressing the start button?

As you've been fiddling in that area the side stand switch or connections may been have been disturbed

I'd check clean all the above and function test with a meter
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doggone
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PostPosted: 15:16 - 01 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mylarballoonsfan wrote:
too wobbly.

You could always weld it. Cool
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 15:18 - 01 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

doggone wrote:
Mylarballoonsfan wrote:
too wobbly.

You could always weld it. Cool


Ahh! but those skills have been lost us now
since bodyguard left
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MaxineDuncan
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PostPosted: 01:39 - 02 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

(But looks like a GS500 to me)[/quote]

Wow ! impressive , yeah you're 100% correct . Its a Suzuki GS500 2014

FURTHER INFO

- Even if i hold in clutch it wont start properly , it atempts the start but doesnt really role over. you get the click and a starter sounds like a horse dying.
-I have been able to push start bike no worries, and then after riding it it will start for me a few times(using the starter). let it rest for a while , and we back to nothng.

As you said @WD i was fiddeling in that area, so side stand and neutral do sound like areas that could of been disturbed for sure.
BUT im wondering, if that was the problem would that cut the curcuit completely or no ? Would i still able to activate the starter as i am now

ie. when kick stand is down (or killswithc is on). it cuts the circuit compltely and when you hit the starter you get nothing at all.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 07:12 - 02 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

MaxineDuncan wrote:
...And im getting an attemted start - similar sound to when you do have a flat battery. but my battery is full (took it out and tested it)

MaxineDuncan wrote:
-I have been able to push start bike no worries, and then after riding it it will start for me a few times(using the starter). let it rest for a while , and we back to nothng.

Symptoms strongly suggest a weak battery. It's possible for a battery to show good no-load voltage, but lack the capacity to drive the starter and keep the electronic ignition module alive. Engine is carbureted, right? If not, add the ECM to the list of critical electrical loads.

Try this. Bump start the bike and ride it around for a bit to charge the battery ( or use a battery charger). Connect voltmeter leads to the positive and negative battery terminals. Observe battery voltage as you turn the ignition on and hit the starter button. Cranking voltage across the battery will drop to around 11.5 volts on a good battery. Cranking voltage of 10 V or lower indicates the battery is shot.
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Robby
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Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 19:58 - 02 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flat battery. Looks like it just happened to go totally flat when you were fiddling with something else on the bike.
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