1982 CB900F Rear Wheel Bearing Removal?

[Downunder Wonder]

How do I get the rear wheel bearings out? I"ve tried the Clymers manual technique of tapping them out. Doesn't work. Not even a fraction of a millimeter

[stinkwheel]

Make sure there aren't any circlips left in.

Then tapping out is the correct way, it might just be in there tight. You could try heating up the alloy of the hub with a heat gun which should make things looser. Obviously there's only so hot you can make it without damaging paint.

I have heard of people putting an expanding rowl bolt in the centre of the bearing and driving it out using the bolt, never tried it though.

Or you could use a slide hammer type bearing puller tool.

Probably just need a sharper punch and a bigger hammer.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Nobby the Bastard]

With this.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/img-20230703-wa0003.jpeg
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Robby]

Assuming they're like other Hondas of the era, there should be no circlips, just a bearing each side pressed as deep as they will go, with a sleeve in between to prevent side loading.

The wheel can corrode around them, making a tight fit into an even tighter fit. It is also hard to get purchase at first because the sleeve stops you getting a good hit on the bearing.

Make sure the wheel is well supported on wooden blocks, use a suitable drift (and old flathead screwdriver to start off) and use a big hammer. 5lb lump hammer tends to work.

Heat can help, but you're more likely to damage the paint/powder coat on the wheel. Penetrating oil will help.

When you do get them out, clean off any corrosion before fitting the new ones. Do this gently or you'll make the hole too big for the bearing.

[MCN]

I replaced the rear bearing in my BMW. The OEM recommended method to remove the bearing is by using a bearing puller and a heat gun.

The hub can take a fantastic amount of heat.
No paint damage. But I think powder coating can handle more heat.

The trick is to get the heat onto the hub without too much getting conducted into the bearings.

It wasn't the most simplest of jobs. The bearing puller I used is a Ching-Chong Specialist tool. And just slipped out of the bearings.
Real bearing pullers are.made of better steel.
Not melted down watch cases and old pots pans and bicycles.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[sickpup]

[blurredman]

[Easy-X]

I get that you can't use much heat unless you want to refinish the hub. How about freeze spray on the bearing?
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Nobby the Bastard]

Just get a bigger hammer.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[stinkwheel]

[stinkwheel]

Here's a long and boring video I did years ago of me removing wheel bearings from a CB500 wheel. Of note is how long it took and the progressively larger hammers and drifts being used.

https://youtu.be/obPQMiQgZv0
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[MCN]

Bearing manufacturers will lose their s4it if they see you hammering a bearing in.

The material is not designed to be hammered.

Freezing the bearing, heating the housing, pressing in the bearing or clamping the bearing are acceptable methods.

It's important or they wouldn't harp on about it.

https://youtu.be/lm-OgrRd3vM

This goes on a bit but covers most points.

Mostly, bad bearing selection. Wrong loading wrong speed rating. Cheap shite.
Bad installation. Shock/point loading (hammering in)

Wrong lubrication. Wrong lube, not enough/too much lube.

Contamination during assembly or in service.

Sealed bearings are recommended for wheel bearing where service access is impossible without disassembly.

I always fit double sealed bearing in wheels. Same bearing model can be double/single or unsealed.

Single seal relies on the inner face not being exposed to external elements. More or less fail-safe in a wheel but not 100%
Double sealed eliminates that issue for not much more £ for a wheel bearing.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[stinkwheel]

[MCN]

https://www.skf.com/uk/news-and-events/news/2023/2023-may-31-skf-consolidates-manufacturing-in-europe-proposes-to-close-factory-in-luton-4552163

This thread reminds me of another shower of khunts I need to add to my Blacklist of khunts who shat on British workers.

HP shut down production in the original factory and moved it all to netherlands.

Irn-Bru took the shoogir oot the irn-bru and put sweetener in. After a long battle with the eu to keep sunset yello in their secret and ancient irn-bru recipe.
(They're in bed with the Special Needs Party of Scotland.)

McVites. The Turks who we fought again their machine guns, in Feb. 1915, bought the brand and the biscuit factory in Glasgow. Moved all production to Turkey and shut the factory in Glasgow.
Sky TV Rupert Murdoch.

There are more I can't think of just now.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.