Fast Getaway

[WildGoose]

help

pulling away from standstill, is not fast

doesnt feel any faster than on the moped, once the clutch it out, and im into 10k, then it takes off, but im pretty sure i should be pulling away much faster than i am

the CBR250 website says you need 6000RPM for serious urge, i seem to be missing the urge

so any tips?
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So in other words, he stopped you for being flagrantly in posession of a motorcycle in direct contravention of the Hippies, Darkies and People Whose Face I Don't Like The Look of (Police Powers) Act. 1976

[Ropehead]

whats the top speed in 1st?

[G]

Hmmm ... I get the same on the ZX6 (though it does start pulling a bit lower)

What I generally do (if you want to learn how to replaces cutches) is to 'slip' the clutch. This means revving it to say 10k (or possibly higher as it red lines at 19k.. obviously lower on the zx) and hold the clutch just past the biting point... this means that a fair bit of power gets down, but the bike doesn't wheelie or bog down.
The other thing to do is to dump the clutch at higher revs... the only problem is that it probably will just bog down on a bike without much tourque. Obviously you don't want to dump the clutch at to high a revs as the bike may well wheelie ... or flip if it happens to be a 1000cc vtwin

[Ropehead]

the only problem with sliping the cluch is:-
- new chain
- new sprockets
- new cluch


But u will get away faster

[G]

Well.... fast acceleration is gonna knacker your chain and sprockets whatever....
OBvioulsy it *will* knacker your clutch... but should be better than my zx, cos you don't have 100hp to kill it with

And you will get away faster

[WildGoose]

my bike does just over 45mph in first rope, but i cant tell cos its only gay stickers on the speedo

hmmm, new clutch, new chain, new sprockets

maybe i'll just deal with being slow
____________________
So in other words, he stopped you for being flagrantly in posession of a motorcycle in direct contravention of the Hippies, Darkies and People Whose Face I Don't Like The Look of (Police Powers) Act. 1976

[stevo]

I have heard that to make the fastest possible getaway, you want to release the clutch at an engine speed just below peak torque, and keep slipping the clutch to maintain this engine speed until the bikes moving at the same speed. Sounds logical, even straightforward. But sumhow i feel that trying to pull away at 9000 on my zx6 would result in a fast getaway for the bike, but not neccasrily for me!
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The Voices made me do it.

[WildGoose]

torque, whats that
____________________
So in other words, he stopped you for being flagrantly in posession of a motorcycle in direct contravention of the Hippies, Darkies and People Whose Face I Don't Like The Look of (Police Powers) Act. 1976

[G]

On the zx6 I find it's best to slip the clutch... it's lets you control the front while obviously you're gonna be on you're back if you drop it at that rpm (I have gone through a lot of cluthches though)

Goose... just dropping the clutch will probably knacker the chain and spockets more because there's a sudden jerk, while the slipping smoothes it out.
In the end, teh way I see it is that I spent a whole load of money to get a damn fast bike, so I might as well spend a little bit more to get a little bit faster bike

[Scotty]

I always slip the clutch if i want to get away fast,
sometimes the front lifts of the floor, but rarely does, i know it knackers the clutch, but from what i hear there not all that expensive on the NSR.
Dunno about fitting them though, guess ill just have to learn...
But once you have got the clutch sliping down to a T for a 125 it shifts of the line fairly quick....lol
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Regards
Scott

[kev]

i normally just rev to about 4000 drop the clutch then crack it open its always seemed to work for me and its won me a hell of alot of races
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20:02:36 Jammy-R6: any holes a goal
20:02:48 kev: even if its a hairy mans arse
20:02:56 Jammy-R6: hell yes

[Demonic69]

Yeah, but he has a few less HP than you
I slip the clutch but don't keep the revs too high before i set-off. I find it best to bring on the power as oppose to keeping it constant
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Back on a Blade. Just feels so right.

[tanner18]

i always slip the clutch if i wanna make a fast getaway, but as mentioned before ure bike will need more regular servicing/maintenance. i rev to 12000rpm on my zxr and slip the clutch so the revs stay between 12 and 13000, im pretty good at it cos i did it all the time on my nsr. i wanna do a standing 1/4 mile to see what time i could do it in.
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inline 4's rule

[Demonic69]

BdB next year then??
I think I need my compression looking at
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Back on a Blade. Just feels so right.

[Keith]

Hi

Well, I would say slip the clutch. It will put a bit of strain on the chain but then that strain is pretty much directly proportional to the acceleration you are getting. As long as it is smooth then the chain isnt getting too hard a time (whereas just dumping the clutch at high revs will be a hell of a shock to the chain, as well as to you if you try it on a bigger bike and it dumps you on the road). Clutch wear will be greater, but then clutches seem to last well

Reaslistically your bike is only starting to make power over 10000rpm, and that is at least 20mph. You can either wait for those revs to arrive or use the clutch to cheat a bit.

Anyway, clutches and chains are consumables. Your happy about using a bit more fuel to go quickly, so why not spend a bit mroe on the other consumable

All the best

Keith

[G]

[Hunter]

Hi there!

45mph on the first gear for a 4s 250 seems a little too high, check your sprockets sizes to make sure you are running stock sizes.

I have ridden a CBR250 that belonged to a mate, but that seemed to have no problem flying off on first with little or no clutch clutch slip.

My NSR SP with a tall first gear only takes me to 62kph at 10,000 rpm (powerband ends at 11,500). This requires a lot of clutch slip to help take off though!

[Phoenix]

I tend to find the best way to get away first and not damage anything is by positioning my bike in front of the car that wants to race then I can just pull away at a leisurely pace

[G]

Hardly humiliates the boy racers with his £000s worth of body kits though

[WildGoose]

hmm

you are all saying slip the clutch, like its something you dont do normally

i dont think ive ever dumped it, apart from once when i wanted to see what happens,

the slowness, i think is just because below 10 000 on my bike, you might as well get off and push

hunter, i have no way to tell if the sprockets are standard, but the ratio on first must be quite out of proportion to the others (at a guess) because i also get the most severe engine braking going from 2nd to 1st

but then i got no clue what im talking about so
____________________
So in other words, he stopped you for being flagrantly in posession of a motorcycle in direct contravention of the Hippies, Darkies and People Whose Face I Don't Like The Look of (Police Powers) Act. 1976

[Ste]

I have dumped the clutch a few times just to see what happens, and if it will wheelie at all. Just like I have tried clutchless shifting. I now know I can do them, but I im not interested in making bills

I normally if I want to pull away fast rev it in the powerband, and letting the clutch out.

[Bendy]

First pretty much sucks on my bike, so I just use it to get moving, then whang 'er into second and away you go. Sounds considerably less painful as well - first is all noise and very little actual movement.

[WildGoose]

i dont ever change into second until im well into the power, cos it wont pull at all well low down, unlike your bike

plus noise is good, i love making people turn round, cos you sound like you are doin 150mph when you are only doin 40 in first gear
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So in other words, he stopped you for being flagrantly in posession of a motorcycle in direct contravention of the Hippies, Darkies and People Whose Face I Don't Like The Look of (Police Powers) Act. 1976

[Mr Lucky]

Slipping the clutch has no adverse effect on chain wear whatsoever (unless your clutch is so knackered that it judders or grabs).

A clutch is slipped to some extent every time a gear is engaged, wether it be pulling away at sedate revs or hooking from 3rd gear to 4th gear at the redline, so it is pretty hard to avoid unless you don't use the clutch to change gear.

Chains will have an easier time if you slip the clutch at 5k from a standing start than if you just dumped the clutch at the same revs. Think about it for a second or two. Your chain is actually getting an easier time of it when the clutch is slipping as the clutch is bleeding power away from the chain, allowing the rear wheel speed to catch up with the crank speed gradually. Dumping the clutch with big revs on will 'yank' the chain and give the cush drive a hard time too.

The biggest killer of chains and chain wheels/sprockets is poor maintenance. A regularly cleaned, correctly adjusted chain will last a very long time, no matter what kind of abuse it receives. A chain with no lubrication at all simply heats up and grinds away at itself, the chain wheel/sprocket and anything else it comes into contact with (swingarm top bottom faces etc). A chain covered in old lube and grit simply has the added bonus of a grinding paste to help out with premature wear.

Been for a ride and felt your chain lately (wait until you stop ) ? Is it hot to touch? Then your chain is poorly adjusted and/or badly lubricated. I can run my Hayabusa at very high speeds for a good distance and when I stop I can touch the chain with my bare hand, no problem.

I assume that you all know how to clean and maintain a chain? I am not just talking about spraying a bit of PJ1 Blue at it every other week either! remember not to just clean the chain. Look at the inside of the chainwheel sprocket casing and you will more than likely be greeted with a site like 40 a day smokers lungs. Get shot if it before you put your chain back on.

If you have a hot chain you have a problem.
Your chain needs energy to heat up. Guess where that energy is coming from? Yes it is useing energy that was destined to turn your back wheel and stealing it to heat itself up (bad chain, naughty chain! In your bed!).

You would be horrified to find out how much hp a knackered chain can sap

A clutch that gets a lot of high revving slippage will of course wear out quicker than a one that doesn't.

When you think about it it is amazing that clutches don't need replacing every few days considering the abuse they get, but at least most of them get lathered in oil, unlike the poor chain just down the 'transmission street'. A wet clutch will benefit from regular oil changes. When fitting new clutch plates in a wet clutch assembly, leave the new clutch plates to soak in clean engine oil over night. Again this combats premature wear and also means your clutch won't soak up the precious engine/gearbox oil that was meant to lube other parts.

Dry clutch? Well, ask your resident and until recently Ducati owner. Keep them cool and free of dust is probably what he will tell you. Drilled clutch casings on dry clutches look the nads too...
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https://www.labusas.org

[Mr Lucky]

Stephen.

Clutchless changing is an art which is easy to master and when mastered can give you very fast, seamless changes. It is also less of a strain on the transmission when done right. Of course, some bikes gearboxes simply are not suited to clutchless changes.

Usefull if you ride a bike with a narrow powerband and worth at least a 10th of a second per change on the 1/4 mile...
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https://www.labusas.org