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Comuk
Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 18 Aug 2019
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Comuk
Borekit Bruiser
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Comuk
Borekit Bruiser
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| slowasyoulike |
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slowasyoulike
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 Posted: 22:07 - 29 Sep 2025  Post subject: |
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Racks, aren't common; do come up occasionally, but not often.
DAFT Idea but you will probably see more bikes sold spares or repairs with a rack than racks sold on thier own. Contact seller see if they will sell rack on its own, or buy whole bike Filtch rack & sell on - you may even make a profit!
Personally, get her a 'cheap' £50 top box that comes with base-plate, preferably the metal one. Snowie has the FC-Moto branded 45l box on her 'Dream and it DONT look out of proportion; takes two full face hats or full face and room for water-proofs boots and some shopping!
Get local welder/black-smith/college metal-work technician to make up a bracket to support the base-plate, using grab-rail mounts as support.
Electrical System is pretty 'good' on the Super-Dream. Cant remember the rating OTMH but for a 125, its got a big genny and a big battery. Especially a 125 of its era!
Was first e-start only 125 and Honda wanted to be sure of reliable starting, so were a bit belt & braces.
However, that's still not necesserily amazing.
Snowie's bike has 35w Discharge headlamp & LED Side; LED dash & LED indicators, as well as electronic timer to lower current loadings, + LED tail
There are two bacl-lights for the dash, rated I think 4.8w? They draw more current than the side light... as does the Neutral lamp, and indy tell-tale.
Personally for DTRL - I advice JUST using the side light..... NOT 'dip-beam' ANYWAY......
Its enough to bright up the headlamp shell, which is all you need...'really' for conspicuity..... but its swings and round-abouts.....
Studies show; drivers SEE but dont recognise what they see, and even when they DO recognise they still mis-judge!
Conclusion normally that with DTRL's they are more likely to see, slightly more likely to recognise, and slightly more likely to mis-jusdge!
Trundling around town; never doing a longer run, and not using too many revs too often..... to keep the battery fully charged.....
Make life easy for yourself:-
Arrow HOW2: Top End Rebuild Honda CB125 (Benley Motor)
You might be able to free the bores off, with two-stroke oil down the spark plug holes and gently working the crank round on the rotor bolt, BUT.
These bikes suffer horribly from long lay-up. They have tiny pistons & they are a very high performance motor for thier size, reving to 12,000rpm, and they start to go 'off' and loose performance just for slightly worn piston rings.
Layed up rings stick in the piston grooves, long before the pistons sieze in the bore. Freed-off, they will run, and often run reasonably well, but within 500 miles they will die... horibly. The gummed rings let the piston run on the bore, you get incredibly accelerated bore wear, burned oil and then the motor just stops running.
Other things is the valve seats rust, and need grinding, and you cant remidy that without opening the engine....
AND you presume the motor is siezed due to pistons stuck in the bores, I would not discount the fact that the engine was pre-siezed, by being run out of oil..... good reason it has sat for two decades unused that.... or two decades has seen oil replaced slowly by condensation & the main crank bearings rust.
I have done a number of these bikes, and have had to rebuild at least three engines from long-lay-up problems, which weren't so bad pistons were glued in bores.
Is so NOT a 250 'Super-Dream' engine.
250 Super-Dream was the Honda CB250N, and used a sleeved down 400N engine; that's a totally different 'family' of engine to the CB125 'Super-Dream' that uses the 'Benley' based engine.
VERY difficult to shoe horn a 250N engine into a 125 Super-Dream frame; its a lot taller, a lot longer, being basically a 500 lump, with counter-balence shafts and stuff, and has completely different engine mountings, meaning the frame would have to be very signiticantly modified to make it fit.
THAT bike, I suspect may be yours was sold a few weeks ago on e-bay, chap selling it spamming on Super-Dream threads on here.....
Fitted with a CB Two-Fifty engine..... IF its a 250 engine.
CB Two-Fifty, 'Night-Hawk' or CM250 Rebel (of the right era) uses the small-block benley engine, same as the CB125, and is almost bolt for bolt interchangeable in the frame.
Its not actually 250cc, its 233cc, and often called the 233 'engine', and it differs from the 125 Super-Dream motor in a number of ways, apart from the bore & stroke dimensions that are 53x53 instead of 41x44. Most of the Benley family motors use a 360 degree crank. that is the pistons in both barels rise & fall at the same time. 125 S-D has 180 crank, one piston up, one piston down. This gives a different firing interval, and where the 360 engines have a single 'siamese' coil firing both cylinders triggered by a single ignition circuit, Super-Dream has two almost independent ignition systems firing individual coils at the different timings. Likewise the cam-shaft has to open & close the valves at different intervals, so has different lobe phasings, and actually a much softer profile. Comporession ratio is also lower, and the engine is designed to run on a single carburettor, not the two of a Super-Dream.
New barels & pistons are about £90, I would PLAN on doing a top end rebuild as 'course', but hold of ordering expensive bits until I had opened the top and seen what I was dealing with and whether it was really worth doing, and had some idea whether the crank was serviceable.
Using approved stance & covering rear brake at junctions in the 'Fafety-Possition' burning 21w of stop lamp....
No.... quite likely you will have sluggish starting after a week or so.....
As said, snowie's bike is 'load minimised', and her headlamp 10W down on stock, and EVERYTHING else majorly de-rated, and she tends to use 'low' beam in day-light, and I am forever having to charge the battery if the bike doesn't 'catch' first try after she hasn't used it for more than two days.....
Current draw from alarm, though being main culprit on that one.
If you haven't already read the Pup-Thread... do so - (clicky-link in my profile)
Could be just a tired engine....
OR.... carburation. 233 motors are mostly intended to run on a single carb. Has it got the carb from the 233 engine & single manifold, becouse that would mean dumping teh Super-Dream air-boxes, and would put the mouth of the carb close to the mono-shock top mount, which can cause some eratic carburation.
If its got the 125's twin-carbs, well, then its probably rather more than a little under-carburated and the carbs will be jetted very wrongly for that engine.
UK spec Super-Dream 125 rund two 14mm Keihin carbs, but is teh de-tuned 'Reduced-effect' model. The full power 125 ran twin 26mm Keihins, with different jets, and that was to let the little 125 breath at the high revs it turns and make 17bhp.
Night-Hawk motor makes about 19bhp, but at lower revs..... so going by the power rating the twin-carbs from the 125 Super-Dream would be too small for the power of the night-hawk motor, while jetting in either 24 or 26mm carb would not necesserily suit the 233 motor that is in a very different state of tune.....
So, carburation problems could be a factor, and again, we dont know how the bikes been hybridised......
And then we have the common bug-bears of the Super-Dream of rusty tanks, silted up fuel taps, and sticky float needles, that could ALL contribute to the sort of symptoms you describe.....
and THAT is just if its as I suspect a 233 motor, not the older 250N lump!
To help you...... and it sounds like you need a lot!..... we need to know a hell of a lot more about your bike; what it IS, and what's been done to it, to give you the mongrel you got, because it ENT going to be in any Haynes manual..... its a Hot-Rod and this is the kind of problems you get buying one!
Oh.. and if it is LOR-Y, then we only have the 'suggestion' its a 233 motor, made by the e-bay seller, who claims to have identified it as a CB250 engine..... from pics in that add, I'm not so sure. Could be a CM250 engine, could be a CMX250 engine, could be a CD250U lump. Could also be a CD200 engine, or even a CM125 or CD125.....
It will be a case of suck-it-and-see, really.
Replacing ALl the propriety bulbs with LED replacements was effoff expensive... I think that the five peanut bulbs for the dash were something stupid like £9 a pair! Then the side-light, something like £15 for two, while to get an LED tail-lamp bulb with ;mixed' red & White LED's to shine through the number-plate lamp, doubled cost of that one, again having to buy in 'pairs'; think that ALL the bulbs excluding the Discharge head-lamp were something like £90 with electronic flasher.....
When it came to doing my DT, I went back to basics & spent £30 on component LED's and restistors..... did ALL the dash-lights, used a proprietyr 'red' LED bulb for the tail, and added white LED's for the number-plate........ much cheaper!
Keeping it low-rent... be tempted to suggest you make up LED dash-lamps.... from components... that will take a good 15W of load off the system....
Then I'd fit 'red' LED bulb to tail, and add some whites for the number-plate... and possibly, as the LED's dont 'fill' the tail-lamp so well, though are brighter.... add a few additional reds dogged into the tail & stops....
Tail-Lamp is notoriousely 'flakey' BTW if messing pay attension to the holder... its a wampy design with the earth following toriouse route! Drilled through a few cases to make secure earth almost direct to bulb before now!
Maybe a mini-project dumping bulb-holder all together and filling back-lense with 6mm LED's?
So you have a spark.... is it at the right time? Try swapping the LT wires on the coils, see if they are the wrong way round (could have timed cam in 360 about to what it was)
Carbs are 'clean' - are they getting fuel. Sediment in the tanks is a bitch on these bikes. Fuel tap silts up, but even cleaned, tank can still have a lot of crap choking flow.
BUT.. compression. When I rebuild I use two-stroke oil as assembly lube to make sure that stuff is not rubbing 'dry'. Also helps give a little compression on first fire, BUT, first fire has to burn off excess assembly lube (why I use more easily combusted two-stroke oil)
Have you used assembly lube? Is there still a lot floating around?
If you haven't. then get some down the plug holes before you snag a ring! If you have, plugs out, charge battery & let it windmill on the starter for a while pumping oil round, and dispelling excess from bores down the exhaust & out the plug hole.
Clean plug, splash of neat petrol through plug holes before fitting, give it a waz, throttle wide open, see if it will catch. Then down to old fasioned de-bugging.
Before assembly did you clean the valves & seats after lapping properly? Have you set the tappets? After lapping best set a little on the wide side to let the valves 'bed' on first fire, then re-adjust after 'burn-in' idle running / first run, before final fettle.
Carb-Rubbers? Air-Leaks? Choke Mechanism?
Eliminate carbs with neat fuel down the throats and a wide open throttle, see if she kicks in, when mixture depleated to stoic!
We did that to the reflective strip on Snowie's top-box....
ANYWAY....
Answer is, it OUGHT to be OK, but depends if she revs the knackers off it and or does enough longer runs!
LED's though can be helpful...... |
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| Pete. |
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Pete.
Super Spammer
Joined: 22 Aug 2006
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Posted: 18:03 - 30 Sep 2025  Post subject: |
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TEF rating 4/10 must try longer...
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a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good  |
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blurredman
World Chat Champion
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Posted: 10:08 - 03 Oct 2025  Post subject: |
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I'm curious- a black t2 model?
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k. |
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Ste
Not Work Safe
Joined: 01 Sep 2002
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| Posted: 10:53 - 03 Oct 2025 Post subject: |
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| Pete. wrote: | TEF rating 4/10 must try longer... |
| Comuk wrote: | The shaft that the chain tensioner plastic blade slots into is rubbing against the crankshaft flywheel.
Does this mean I have a bent crankshaft? I can’t imagine how that would be as I didnt change anything or dropped/hammered the crankshaft but here we are!!
It is happening on one of the thick parts of flywheel though, the other side is fine, the piston rods are pretty stable, very very small play is there side to side or up and down |
T2 motor, as in the early twin-shock twin, is the most powerful production four-stroke 125 EVER... in good nick should chuck out about 16bhp, as much as the same era two-stroke twins, with more revs and more mid-range!
First off make sure you have a genuine T2 motor, not a later, common as muck, 12bhp Super-Dream engine, or worse, even more common 360 crank CD Benley or CM Rebel engine, that makes about 11bhp on single carb.
Good bits in your engine are the cam-shaft which was the wildest honda made, and about the best you cab fit a CB125 Twin; and the 26mm Carburettors.
Make sure that you have them... again, 'Reduced effect' Super-Dream bits fit, to fix up a knacker.
NOW, personally, I'd be inclined with a T2 to keep it stock. It is a classic and it does have that accolade of the most powerful production 125 four-stroke.
And its a pretty nippy little bike, and I'm not too sure I would want to go much quicker than the genuine 18mph it offers with that cantankerouse cable operated front brake! (It was bad enough on a CB100N single I had the displeasure of, many many years ago, even for the time when a lot of new lightweights still came with drums!)
Anyhow...16bhp... there aren't many Benley based motors that make much more power, and it is as much as the CB200 chucked out....
The CB Two-Fifty the bored and stroked 233cc 360 crank version of the Benley motor only knocked out 19bhp, while the most powerful variant was the CMX 250 Rebel, that was another 233cc 360 crank motor, but with twin CV carbs.... that made 21.
So.... it's a bit mutable how far you may take one of these little babies....
If you have the 26mm carbs and the genuine T2 full-power cam, you are off to a good start, and we know that the head and valves are good enough to flow enough for 20ish bhp... so there is scope to find more by boring.
Bug-bear though is that you cannot go over 142cc on the stock liners. You can get a kit to get this far from china for about £90, complete with pistons and rings... not really worth effing about with C70 slugs, when there's already CB125 pattern pistons that size.
Reports, however suggest that the extra 17cc... about 15% make very little noticeable difference to peak power, though.
But there just ins't enough metal in the sleeves in the barel to go much bigger... you could.... but you would be running on the finning ali.
Bigger liners? Barels from one of the bigger bore motors?
OK, well the biggest Benley based engines are 233cc and they get that from a 53x53 bore & stroke. The 200's are the same 53mm bore, but a slightly shorter stroke.
53mm bore on the 41mm CB125 crank-stroke gives 170cc... so you aren't going to get it all the way out to 200cc on stock 'big-bore-benley' barels.
CB200.... conveniently had the same 41mm stroke as the 125... and to get 198cc, used 55.5mm bore.
Bad news is that that is one over-bore BEYOND max over bore on a big-bore benley barel.... AND Big-Bore-Benley barels dont drop straight onto 125 crank cases.... the liners are too large for the cylinder apature.
OK... machine the block to get bigger barels in..... over-bore a big-bore barel......
You now have to find suitable pistons.... you have gone beyond the bore size for any of the standard Benley engines; not that you would want to use any of the big-bore benley slugs anyway, as they are flat-top low compression jobs, and the gudgeon pin diameter is too big to fit the con-rod, but too small to be sleeved in the piston.
So... boring out the 125 engine;
First problem: is the liner size the cases will take.
Second problem: how big you can bore 'big-bore-benley' liners
Third Problem: finding suitable pistons to match con-rods AND liner bore
Forth Problem: Making sure big pistons actually give you more power and dont rob it, having enough compression
Its a big mine-field. I have trodden it very carefully, and my advice is that unless you are pretty nifty at getting stuff machined to suit, and really know what you are about... which if you're asking here you probably ent..... dont bother trying.
142cc big-bore kit is available off the shelf. Dont make much odds, but probably the best you can do reasonably cheaply and easily.
Make sure it is a genuine T2 spec motor, and you do have the full power that spec offers.
Maybe as 'improvements' consider upgrading to 12v electrics using later Benley or Superdream generator & Superdream CDi Ignition.
Definitely consider what might be done to upgrade that cable disc brake.
Otherwise.... just make the thing as tidy and well fettled as you can and enjoy it for what it is.... a classic tiddler.
No matter how much you tune it, its never going to be very fast. Its a 125...
But in that company its one that you ought not ride on L-Plates or A1 licence becouse its already more powerful than legal restrictions or anything you can buy new in the show-room today!
The Benly engines, as a rule, have 360 degree cranks; there's two revs per combustion cycle, or 720 degrees, so that means that both pistons are at TDC or BDC at the same time, (there's 'zero' degrees of crank rotation between the crank-pins) but they are always two 'strokes' infront or behind each other.
The Benley Engines, as most small honda's and in fact most motorbikes, employ what's known as the 'lost-spark' ignition system. Basically rather than as was conventional on a car engine that used a 'distributor' to time the spark ad send it to the right cylinder's spark plug, once per combustion cycle; it times the spark off the crank-shaft and lets it fire the plug(s) every rev; if the ignition is timed, say 4Degrees Before Top Dead Centre, then, the plug fires at 4 degrees before the piston gets to the top of the compression stroke, to set the fire to push the piston back down on the power stroke. Piston comes back up on exhaust, and the 'stupid' ignition system doesn't know a sparks not needed and fires the plug again, 4 degrees before top dead.. of course there's thing i the pot but smoke for it to set fire too, so it doesn't do much, hence is 'lost'; but saves having to get all complicated timing the sparks off the cam or anything.
Conveniently, IF you have a 360 timed parallel twin, like a little Honda Benly.. means that you only have to have one trigger to fire the sparks; and you only need to have one coil; just needs to be connected to two spark-plugs; This will then put a fire in the hole of both pots at the same time, and one will be when its needed, a few degrees before top dead centre on the compression stroke, and set the fire for the power stroke; the other will be 'lost' in the smoke of the exhaust stroke... next rev, which spark sets the fire and which is 'lost' swaps, and all is well.
Trouble with 360 twins, though is they are a bit vibey; both pistons going up and down together, it's like having a big single, all the weight goes one direction or the other at the same time, and there's thing to 'balance' it out... which was why the 400 (and consequently the sleeved down 250) Super-Dream had a balancer shaft....
The little 125 Benley, though, two moped sized pistons, not really an issue; certainly not when rated at 10bhp or so, and reving to less than 10,000rpm.
That is, till they decided to make a 'twn-carb' sports version, and to try and get more power from the damn thing than they did the 200cc version.. make it rev to 14+ooo rpm.. THEN it starts to get a bit vibey, and like to shale itself to bits!
So the CB125 Engine is the rougue in the family; it has a 180 degree crank, which is to say that the crank pins are 180 about, so one piston is 'up' when the other is 'down'; one stroke ahead, three strokes behind.... power pulses aren't as 'even' but the weight of one piston going up is sort of balanced a bit by the one coming down, so at revs it Is a 'smoother' engine.
Does mean you need to revise the ignition system though; you can still use a 'lost-spark' ignition, but you can no longer use a comon timing trigger on the crank, and common 'syamesed' coil to fire both plugs at the same time. If you did, you'd get a 'good' spark a few degrees before TDC on the compression stroke of one cylinder, but you'd be sticking the 'lost' spark into a pot, either a few degrees before bottom dead center on the power stroke, which might not be too much of problem and still be 'lost' in smoke; OR, what would be rather uhelpful, you'd be setting fire to the charge JUST sucked o the bottom of the induction stroke, and i either case only runing properly on one cylinder.
Answer is pretty self evident; you have to use two totally separate coils, one for each cylinder, so they can fire independently at separate timings, AND you need some-way of triggerig them at the right time; and the simplest way of doing that is to just have two triggers 180 degrees about on the crank-shaft.
Which is all a lot of anticipated pre-amble to explain that IF you have an actual CB125 Engine not a CD or CM motor between 125 and 234cc.. should have twin-trigger, twin CDi ignition system.
If as you describe you DONT have a twin CDI ignition.... poses suggestion you DON'T actually have a CB engine....
Next up.... the 'stator' wires.... The CB125 has three yellow wires from the three charging windings on the stator going direct to the Regulator/Rectifier.
The Ignition is 'self exited', which means it takes its power direct off the generator and has its own windings on the stator to power up the CDi units; working on the magneto-principle, AC current is taken down a solid blue, and a solid white wire; the AC pulse lasts 180 degrees of crank rev, so is a CD voltage as far as the ignition is concerned; these two wires feed BOTH CDi units.
The CDi is 'triggered' by a pair of induction coils, when a lug on the rotor passes them. They are separate from the stator, and spaced 180 degrees about the rotor to fire the sparks independently for each pot. They have a common green/white earth wire, isolated from the bikes common earth circuit; there's then a blue with yellow stripe wire for one trigger, a white with yellow stripe wire for the other.
The answer to your conundrum IS to be found the books; both by Haynes, the first that for the CB125 Super-Dream, the other the one for Four-Stroke Chinese 125's; The Wirig Diagrams they contain and a little prodding and poking with a Multi-Meter.
You NEED t be sure what you have to start with; as you have discovered, Honda used a common crank-case bolt pattern, on the CG OHV family of engines, the CB/XL OHC single engines, as well as the Benley OHC Twin motors, carried over to the Chinese copies ad their variants on them; that allows almost any of them to be swapped between genuine Honda and Chinese clone, copy or variant frames, very easily... BUT the devil is in these little details and revisions and differences, that offer perms and combs that run to gazzilons!
You could have a 12v CDi ignition CB125 Super-Dream engine.... You could have a 6v poits igition CB125T engine; you could have a 6v points CM or CM engine; a 12v and CDi CD or CM engine; of EVEN a 'splay-port' CG sigle motor, that was stuffed to the Super-Dream frame for some rice-markets ad found its way here with Honda badges on it!
First check what you got; pull the plugs ad turn the motor over o the rotor-bolt, and use a bic-biro through the plug-hole to find t of its 'one-up' or 'both up' crank-timed on the pistons. (and to make sure its not a bludy splay-port singe!)
I would try cleaning the two wires you mentio; the blue one and the white one, with white spirit, to see if there's a faded yellow stripe on them both.....
And I would put a multimeter on 'continuity' between the end of the black wire with the red collar, and the earth point, and play with the gear-lever... I suspect that is the Neutral Warnig Lamp Switch....
THEN, I would probably fuck off the Jinlun CDI's and coils, and fit the FULL ignition system from the engine you are fitting to the frame, rather than eff-about trying to mix and match; JUST to climate variables.... its an almost completely 'stand-alone' system; as said, it's powered independent of the battery off the magneto; timed from the magneto; and the only 'wire' that goes anywhere to anything else on the bike, is (o a Super-Dream) a black-white wire, common to both CDi's that 'makes' a circuit to the chassis earth when the ignition switch is 'off', that 'earths' the AC feed from the power-windings the mag, to kill the sparks.
The 125T and T2, then do have some genuine classic cudos in standard form, and reletively so rare, I'd be rather sanguine about hacking one about with ideas of Cafe-Racer-ing, TBH.... though, even at my tender years, a lot of that would be contemplating an aching back, I still suffer even without ace-bars! But see opening comment... lol.
As far as muggering with the motor?
That 309 cam is the key component to finding the power pottential of the twin; but valve timing does mean it will only work on 180 timed 125's.
The heads are actually rather good; they use the same head and valves on all the sloper Benly derivates, up to the most powerful, CMX250, that had the 53x53 bore stroke, on 360 crank, with twin CV's and managed about 21bhp.
There is little to no gain to be found there 'porting' the head, it already has more than enough flow capacity for a lot more gas than 125 motor will suck, and the port walls are rather thin in places, especially around the valve guide boss where it is most tempting to start shaving metal.
Valves are diddy, but reasonable for the motor/head, and in Hemi combustion chamber, rather close. Trying to make space for bigger valves, would beg filling the combustion chamber, and valve guide drillings with ali-weld, and starting from scratch re-cutting. A lot of work for small gain.
Carbs? PD26's are reather crude slide affairs, they aren't the most sophisticated, but they are big enough and they work... and conveniently match up to the manifilds pretty well. That manifoold is rather awkward and you would again have to make from scratch to fit much else, and given that CBR250.... well, how cheap and easy will you find bits for such a rare, non UK market device? But if you could, they are a parallel banked 'set' of carbs, with common butterfly rail and choke interconnect; not as easy as just lopping two off the end of the bank for a twin, and if you did, you would have to split them to mount 'splayed' on the 125 twin, and make a LOT of problems, probably not to find any benefits.
If you really want CV's, then off the shelf, you can buy the ones used on the CMX250, for reletive pennies from e-bay; and the manifolds and stubs to suit; they were used on the CMX250 and chinky derivatives, especially the big bore box cars, sorry quads sold on US market. But would beg loosing the OE airbox.
Exhaust? Like carbs and head, much the same and certainly the same header diameter used on the 10bhp 125's, through the 13 &17bhp 125's up through the 19-21bhp 'two-fifties'; no likely gains to be found there, either lopping off silencers or looking for anything more 'free-flow'.
Short of boring the bugga out, there's not a huge scope of likely targets to make anything much if any better.
Remember, out the crate, this engine, at forty years old!!! With air-cooling, two valves per cylinder, and simple slide carbs, makes MORE power than contemprary hot snot four-stroke 125's, that with water-cooling, 4valve heads and fuel injection cant do any better! And especially in the case of the YZF-R125 are a little on the fragile side before any-one tries adding lumpy cam or mapping the EFI!
And the old T-Shock, is a sack of spuds or two lighter than any of these things before you try lopping anything off it!
Of ALL the things you could do to a T/T2?
Well, OE 'Have a Drama on a Yokahama" rubber is top target. Decent modern rubber is GOOD. I think that they have been discontinued now, but we run Mitchelin M45's on the Pup, in T/T2 narrower sizes. Soft-ish compound, they grip! And I deck the pegs on the Super-Dream on them with abandon; in fact I did it by accident first time out to scrub them in for our Snowie!
Next up the old punger T-Shock suspension is a bit bouncy. T/T2 use narrrower forks than the TD's, and not a lot that can be done with them, but decent fork oil and a few 2p's preloading the springs can stiffen them up a lot. Haynes ISTR suggests using water thin ATF fluid in them, any wt fork oil, 5 or 10 will make them significantly more useful.
Back end plungers had effall damping from, the off, and sealed units, other than winding up the pre-load not a lot to be done with them, but plenty of better after market items available; check the pit-bike emporiums.
Top target for upgrade though has to be that suicide front disc. My main experience with one was on a CB100N, and it was effin-orrible! I am reliably assured that decent pads... if you can track them down, and IF you pay assidiouse attension to setting up the brake and cable very carefully, can make it almost 'good'..... but I still have flash backs to the CB100N.. I am not convinced!
A hydraulic caliper from something like a 125 super-dream would give better availability of better more modern pads, and full hydraulic actualtion. Provided the caliper and master cylinder were properly fettled and overhauled first.
Not sure about the fork hanger arrangement on the T/T2, I would expect to have to fabricate an adapter to take a hydro caliper; but posibly not as stand out obviouse as a TD front end or anything, It would probably be where I looked for significant improvement.
Otherwise I would tend to try and leave the thing as standard as possible.......
On the 12.5bhp 'reduced effect' Pup, even carrying excess weight, baited by a couple of local lads on more powerful and full faired YZF-R125, deturmined to show me what a 'real' sports bike can do, when they spotted the L-Plate.... They haven't been in my rear-view more than a couple of corners! And had a good dice with a chap on an Fazer 600 on the twisties coming back from a show!
Rather more grin inducing, to my mind to do it on something that looks like hum-drum low cost commuter, than something that looks modified....
A-N-D on a twisty road? If a heavier, 'Restricted' 125 Super-Dream wont discrace itself, even against 80horse big-bikes, no reason a lighter, full power T/T2 should....
Meanwhile; long considered opinion for a hot benley motor, was to use the 125's 44mm stroke 180 crank, topped with over bored CB'Two-Fifty' 53mm barels, over bored to 55,5mm to give samebore and stroke as the older CB200; 309 Cam, PD26's and Super-Dream CDi ignition... that's about the ultimate spec of Benley motor, and aught be 'good' for something in the mid 20's bhp wise; as much as any managed with the 53/53 big bore motors, plus a bit. BUT, hinges on having that cam; begs the crank cases machining to take the bigger barels; begs some pretty considered parts hunting amd machine mods to make them all fit... A-N-D you have about as much oomph as an out the box unrestricted NS125..... big work for small gains.... and is it really worth it, when you can still dust most 4T stuff that can wear an L-Plate on the 'reduced effect' motor..
With the full-power twin-shock? I would be inclined to restore to brochure and keep it classic; the most powerful 'production' four-stroke 125, it will always be that, even sat still.
I'd save doing the dispicable to the common as muck Super-Dream, that has more scope to capitolise on it, as well as more you can do, and isn't such a 'classic', and is still a pretty potent sports 4T125....
Remember the CX500 Turdo?
I have always had a hankering to build a silver 125 Super-Dream with a square headlamp Power-Bronze full fairing; Decalled up in factory style dayglo orange stickers declaring "Turbo" on the side; and one, maybe two of these Chinky pit bike blowers.... Would work pretty well, and probably better on a soft cam CM/CD engine; but hey, who cares.. it got a TURBO!
Given how many times I have been accosted and accused of riding a 250, and had folk a good half decade or more older than me, wax lyrical about when THEY had one 'back in the day' obliviouse of the very obviouse 125 decals on the side-panels, and abscent T-Shocks... I have always wondered how many would, at meets, start telling me they remember reading about the 125Turbo in the magazines, and how it was made in itally, and such a pitty the 125 L-Plate laws and power limit, put the kybosh on it, and start asking me how hard parts were to get for it LoL!! Another project, for another life-time perhaps!
ANYWAY... your bike your call. Bottom line is that the 125 twin doesn NOT lend itself to much more tuning than the factory gave it, but a lot of scope for part-bin pondering that in the cold metal makes as many problems as likely solved.
Have fun!
The full-power cam is Honda part number suffix 309, OTMH.
No, there's no identifying marks on a 309, or other cam AFAIK.
Yes, a W-Reg twin-shock CB125T 'should' have the full-power motor, with ISTR points rather than CDI ignition, larger 26mm PD carbs, and the 309 profile cam.
There's not a lot of other differences between T & TD- the motors, other than TD's normally painted black, whilst the 360 timed 'soft' motors used in the CM & CD retained the grey finish and looked almost identical to the early 125-Ts pretty much throughout!
Whether such an old bike still HAS the 309 cam, or even 180 timed CB engine, and even if it does, whether its in serviceable condition, are very big consequential questions! |
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